Like most U.S. diplomatic missions, the U.S. Embassy in Seoul has the good fortune to be supported by a small Marine Security Guard detachment. They are required to stay fit and strong, and they do a lot of training to stay that way. I knew I couldn’t keep up with their training, but I invited the Marines to hike together in Bukhansan (북한산), where at least I had the slight advantage of having done it before. For the others, it was a first visit to these amazing mountains so close to our Embassy, and while these young men went up the mountain much faster than I did, they like me found themselves stopping often to enjoy the views.
Group photo with the U.S. Marines
Since we decided this was “training,” we went out on a weekday, avoiding the weekend crowds. By starting off early in the morning we were able to get to Bukhansan, scramble up some rock faces to take in the views, visit a historic temple, and descend in time to go to work after a mid-morning meal. And what a meal it was: We tried out one of the dozens of restaurants that cater to hungry hikers at the bottom of the mountain. I went for “naeng-myon (냉면),” one of my favorite summer dishes, but several of the Marines tried haejangguk (해장국). The Marines learned haejangguk is considered a cure for those who’ve overindulged the night before. While no one was in need of that kind of “cure,” they ate the meal with gusto.
Trying 'haejangguk'