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Young Koreans thinking about a career in diplomacy often ask me and my colleagues what a typical day in a diplomat’s life is like. As I tell them, and our interns at Embassy Seoul learn, there is no “typical” day.
But with that disclaimer, I will tell you about a recent week in my life. There was no major crisis, no major visit, no major travel. And yet it was a very busy, productive, and enjoyable week. And yes, a little exhausting too.
Here goes.
Sunday, March 20
It was a quiet weekend - good for catching up on reading and sleeping. I started plowing through the stacks of newspapers and other work-related reading that pile up at home, but then took a break and started reading a novel, a too-rare indulgence for me. It was “Balzac and the Chinese Seamstress.” Once I started reading I had to finish. The semi-autobiographical novel is set in China during the Cultural Revolution. Reading it took me back to my two years in China from 1980 to 1982, when as a young American diplomat I met many Chinese like those in the book who had suffered and survived the Cultural Revolution, their humanity intact and their hopes undimmed.
Sunday’s highlight, though, was going to the “baby-welcoming party” given by my deputy spokesperson to meet his beautiful newborn twin babies – a boy and a girl, not even 100 days old yet. At Embassy Seoul we half-joke that we are bucking Korea’s declining demographic trends; over the past few years many Embassy employees, both American and Korean, have added to their families. I hope they find a good work-life balance at our Embassy; seeing these young families reminds me we need to keep our priorities straight!
Two beautiful additions to the embassy family
Monday, March 21
Monday started with a meeting with my key Embassy staff, followed by a thirty-minute Korean language tutorial. I try to do a short Korean class every day but sometimes I find excuses to miss it! Today I was motivated because I needed to prepare and practice a text in Korean to tape for broadcast the following day on a KBS special concert to raise support for victims of the Japan earthquake and tsunami. After lunch there were more meetings: A group of visiting American Air Force officers from the Air War College, and a meeting with the new EU ambassador to Korea. It is diplomatic practice for new ambassadors to pay “courtesy calls” on ambassadors already assigned; I like it best when these “courtesy calls” yield to discussion of real issues. On this occasion we had plenty to talk about; both of us hope to see our respective pending Free Trade Agreements with the Republic of Korea ratified this year. In between these meetings and into the evening, I caught up with official reading and worked on a speech.
Recording a video message about Japan for KBS’s concert for Japan
Tuesday, March 22
Tuesday began with a breakfast meeting at a local hotel. The business breakfast is an American practice Koreans have embraced, sometimes I think too enthusiastically! Today it was to meet with the visiting CEO of a major American health care company. By the time I was headed to the office it was, as one of my predecessors put it, “The Land of the Morning Traffic” out on Korea’s roads, and I was grateful for the luxury of being able to sit in the back seat of my car to read the morning newspapers. Once at the Embassy, I continued to review the Korean press during my language lesson, impressed by the depth of the reporting on the situation in Japan. With this in mind, I went to the Japanese Embassy to pay my respects and to sign their condolence book. Ambassador Muto expressed to me how moved he and his colleagues have been by the expressions of support they were receiving from throughout Korea and the United States.
Today was also a day to think about technological change, how we innovate, and how we adapt. Richard Miller, President of Olin College of Engineering, was in Seoul to speak at an event on just that topic, and he stopped by to see me, leaving me a copy of a study by ITIF (The Information Technology and Innovation Foundation) entitled, “Refueling the U.S. Innovation Economy: Fresh Approaches to Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics (STEM) Education.” There’s plenty of interest in this topic in Korea, too, and I was glad President Miller was here to exchange ideas and explore partnerships with Korean institutions. I see this as a natural outgrowth of President Obama’s emphasis on education reform in the U.S., and on developing synergies with Korean education.
Then it was home to introduce Lee Brenner, a social media expert from the U.S., to Koreans drawn from media, government, and politics, and representing a range of political views. We had a great conversation. Nothing pleases me more than getting a group like this together. We may not agree on everything, but we hear different perspectives and think fresh thoughts. Tonight I was finally persuaded – at last - to start a Twitter account. Here it is: http://twitter.com/ambstephens
Dinner at the residence: The theme – New Media
Wednesday, March 23
Wednesday was another working breakfast, this time with my good friend and colleague General Skip Sharp, Commander of U.S. Forces Korea. We have both been in Korea since 2008, and we see and talk to each other often, sometimes many times a day. But, we make it a habit to schedule a once-a-month breakfast one-on-one. Today was General Sharp’s turn to host, so I went to see him at the Yongsan Garrison, where he had already gone running that morning and so ordered the “PT (physical training) special.” I hadn’t gone running but I had a hearty American breakfast anyway.
Back at the Embassy I joined my Country Team (our term for the Mission’s senior leadership from every agency and section) to meet with visiting Congresswoman Loretta Sanchez of California. Her delegation included a number of Korean-Americans actively engaged in their communities and deepening U.S.-Korea ties. Afterwards we had lunch at the Residence for a lunch with Korean National Assemblymen and other political leaders. We talked about the ratification prospects for the KORUS FTA in both countries, our hopes for the future of the U.S.-Korea relationship, and the challenges of politics in our respective democracies – all lively topics!
Representative Loretta Sanchez (D-CA) and her delegation meet Korean politicians
In the afternoon, three completely different events: First, a fascinating conversation with Korean-American academics working in North Korea. Then a meeting with the respected archeologist/historian Shin Gwang-Seop, formerly director of the Korean Folk Museum, now the director-general of the Committee for the Establishment of the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History taking shape next door to the Embassy. And finally I joined about 100 Embassy staff crowded into our tiny cafeteria for the launch of the Embassy’s “Go Green” initiative. I was inspired by their determination and practical ideas to reduce, reuse, and recycle materials, and to otherwise shrink our environmental footprint.
With our General Services Officer Judi Semilota, who really makes the Embassy run: “Go Green!”
Back home again, it was time for my third official meal of the day. This is what I call “eating for my country.” This time I had the pleasure of hosting the executive directors of Fulbright Commissions – the U.S. government’s premier exchange program - from throughout the East Asia-Pacific region. I enjoyed hearing about Fulbright programs in other countries, and was pleased to hear the other directors say they regard the Korea program – and its indefatigable leader Shim Jai-Ok (my “unni” or “older sister” by the way, since I first knew her in the 1970s when she was a rock of support for Peace Corps volunteers like me), as an inspiration to all.
Thursday, March 24
Seeing our future in these Yonsei students; seeing our past at the “Eighth Army Memorial Chest Hospital” at Severance
After all that patriotic eating on Wednesday, it was a struggle to get up in time to meet my tennis coach at 6:30 am, but I was glad I did. After an hour hitting tennis balls with him, I have some insight into why Korean women have become such good golfers. Practice, practice, practice. At my age and skill level, I’ll never be a very good tennis player, but my Korean coach inspires to think I can still improve! And it definitely put me in the right frame of mind to head to Yonsei University where I was scheduled for a different kind of volley practice in a “Town Hall” event with students.
First, though, I wandered through the Yonsei campus, and visited the university’s remarkable library. Then on to the Town Hall, packed with students who did not disappoint me; they asked challenging and insightful questions. When I mentioned to Yonsei’s President Kim Han-Joong that today was World TB Day, President Kim told me how the U.S. Eighth Army in the 1950s had helped build a “Chest Hospital,” to support Severance Hospital’s efforts to eradicate tuberculosis. And so before leaving campus I stopped to visit the still-standing building, and view the memorial plaque. Today the U.S. and Korea still work together to combat TB, particularly in seeking treatments for multidrug-resistant TB. I saw a bit of our history of shared efforts today.
I had a lot of reading and correspondence to do in the office by afternoon, and I also was pleased to meet with a Korean national assemblyman, and the newly-arrived Singaporean ambassador. By the time I left the office in the evening, the sunshine I enjoyed during my morning tennis had been eclipsed by heavy rain, and as we drove up the hill to Songbuk-dong for a farewell reception for my friend Ted Lippman, the departing Canadian ambassador, the rain turned to sleet and then snow! Ambassador Lippman said he’d planned Canadian weather for his farewell, and indeed Bugak-san was glistening white even the next morning.
Friday, March 25
Friday was especially busy for the Residence staff. It was they who prepared and served the food and drinks all day as I hosted breakfast for a senior Korean diplomat, lunch for Korean political leaders, and a large dinner-reception for contacts in the economic and business world in honor of my talented Economic Minister Counselor Greg Burton, headed for Afghanistan. These kinds of events build relationships, trust, and shared understanding, and I could not do them without the unsung Korean and Filipino staff who work at the Residence. Thank you!
The Residence staff whose talent and hard work make possible the functions at Habib House. From left: Mr. Daniel Gacad, Ms. Ran-ja Yu, Ms. Mandelita Oblades, Ms. Ma Lora Comares, Mr. Gyu-soo Lee (Missing in action: Mr. Noel Concepcion)
In between all this, at the office, I had a courtesy call from the new Spanish ambassador, departure calls from several colleagues departing for other assignments, and of course plenty of unanswered e-mails from Washington that needed attention; the weekend was approaching in Seoul but Washington was just waking up for Friday workday!
Saturday, March 26
Didier, my old friend from Portugal (where I was DCM or “bu-dae-sa” some years ago and where my bicycling mania really started) arrived on Friday to explore the Korean bicycling scene. I had other Saturday obligations, so I sent Didier off to explore with a friend of mine who knows Korea’s biking byways “like the back of his hand.” They rode all around Seoul and made instant friends on Inwangsan.
Less than 24 hours after arriving in Seoul, my Portuguese friend Didier (third from left) had biked Buk-ak Skyway, Namsam, and to the top of Inwangsan, where he immediately bonded with Korean biking enthusiasts.
For my part, with Thursday’s snow melted, I played tennis, and then headed, with some trepidation, to Kyobo Bookstore in Gwanghwamun, where I was scheduled to sign copies of my Korean-language book, “An American Ambassador’s Reflections on Life in Korea (or 내이름은 심은경입니다 in Korean).” I wondered if anyone would show up. In fact, there were many friendly, warm people of all ages, and I was delighted to meet them all. In particular, I was surprised and moved to see my former student Na Bu-nam for the first time since 1976, when I taught him English at Yesan Middle School. I still remembered Bu-nam for his brilliant mind and his exceptional English ability. It was wonderful to see him as a grown man, and speaking beautiful English! I told him I was very proud of him for all he had achieved.
I was so happy to see my former student Na Bu-nam, an inspiration to me then and now.
It was a great Saturday, capped off by the pleasure of welcoming former Ambassador to the Republic of Korea Christopher Hill, now dean of the University of Denver’s School of International Studies, back to Seoul, and of hosting a dinner with some of his many friends here.
Sunday, March 27
This map on the left should have warned me the Gapyong ride is not “a Sunday stroll”
With my bicycling friend Didier having come all the way from Portugal, and since he had already bicycled Seoul on Saturday while I signed books, we decided to explore outside Seoul on Sunday. So off we went to Gapyong, near Chuncheon. I know Gapyong is known to Korean students as a place for “MT,” (membership training), but we were there for “MTB,” mountain-biking. I should have known when I saw the information sign at the beginning of our ride including a photograph of a heavily-helmeted competitive biker that perhaps I was moving outside my comfort zone. But off we went, for a forty-kilometer ride up and down three mountains. I was told competitive mountain bikers complete the course in two hours or so. It took me much, much longer. And it seemed to me that at least 30 of those 40 kilometers were uphill. Still, it was much fun, snow and ice and all, and we all recovered when it was over with the best Chuncheon tak-kalbi I’ve ever had. “Hunger is the best sauce,” or in Korean, “si-jang pan-chan i-da.”
So that’s a typical week in my life in Korea. By the numbers, my staff tells me it looks something like this: 160 Yonsei students, 150 books signed, 40 kilometers by bike, twelve social media experts, eight internal embassy meetings, seven functions at the residence with 150 guests total, seven Fulbright executive directors, six meetings with Korean officials, four meetings with foreign ambassadors, three Korean language lessons, two additions to the embassy family, two meetings with American military officials, two meetings with American organizations, two visits to other Embassies, two tennis matches, one U.S. congressional delegation, one video for a TV concert and one trip to Incheon International Airport. And more. Somewhere in there I did find some time to reflect, including while toiling up that endless mountain in Gapyeong.
To all who helped me this week to learn a little more about Korea and the U.S. and the issues that challenge us, about how to make this relationship work a little better, and about how to work together to make the world a better place, I thank you.
I can’t wait for next week.
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