- Frence Team :

[곽노성(샛별)]

Himlung Himal, a classic 7000 in Nepal

Expédition himalayenne

This page presents technical information about a new normal route to the Himlung Himal.
I believe that this summit, already quite often climbed, will become the most classical and the most frequented 7000 m peak in Nepal.

( 새로운 노말 루트에 대한 기술적 정보 제공용 )

This topo is written mainly for Nepalese agencies and Nepalese IFMGA guides; in order to offer an alternative to the usual route (the “old” normal route described in an article of the French magazine “Vertical”) and to prevent climbers being killed on this route, which has become, as time has passed, more subject to avalanches (3 Nepalese climbers were killed in 2013).

본 지형정보는 주로 네팔 가이드들에게 예전의 노말 루트를 대신하여 새로운 루트 정보를 제공하여 가이드들의 죽는 사고를 방지 하는 것이다.

( 2013년에 눈사태(?)로 3명의 가이드가 죽었다 ) 

• The mountain setting is magnificent. 
• The itinerary is interesting and relatively short,
• with neither specific difficulty nor objective danger.

   * 산세가 엄청 웅장하고 아름답다.

   * 등반 여정이 재미있고 비교적 짧다.

   * 특별히 어렵지도 않고 위험한 대상도 없다.

'    

The new base camp (called “French Base Camp”) is also a very good initiative (which most probably saved the lives of our Nepalese team!)

       Une carte pour bien positionner l’emplacement du camp de base. Le point bleu correspond

       au camp de base de Kari Kobler. Le point rouge de l’autre côté du glacier au nouveau

       French Base Camp.

                The new normal route to Himlung Himal. A very interesting finding by Kari Kobler’s guide.

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For this ascent in autumn 2014, despite the amount of fresh snow and our lack of knowledge of the itinerary, one day followed each other naturally..

( 2014년 가을 등반에서, 많은 양의 신설과 여정에 대한 지식 부족에도 불고하고 하루하루 일정을 소화했다. )

We opted for a continuous progression, taking two days to move between each altitude camp and to acclimatize smoothly, pitching 3 high camps above Base Camp.

( BC위  3개의 하이 캠프 이동에서는, 

  고소적응을 위하여 캠프가 2일씩 소요하며 지속적으로 이동했다. )

Our efforts were relatively limited and the weight carried never exceeded 12kg (and sometimes even less than 10kg).
However, the last day up, from camp 3 to the summit, requires significant effort on relatively steep terrain (30 to 35°), where the snow conditions are key to the complexity of the ascent.
In general, Nepalese agencies systematically prepare this part of the climb with fixed ropes, but of course a different approach is possible.

( 짐의 무게는 12Kg을 전혀 넘지 않게 했고, 어떤 경우 10Kg로 했다 )

(  마지막 날, C3에서 정상까지 갈 때는, 경사도가 30 ~ 35도로 상대적으로 높아서, 꽤 힘들었는데, 눈

   상태가 많은 영향을 끼친다.

  일반적으로 네팔 가이드는 고정 로프( 600m ? )를 설치하는데, 물론 고정 로프 없이도 등반 가능하다. )  

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                   French Base Camp in « normal » autumn conditions, in 2013.

                  Crossing the Pangri  glacier.

                  The glacier without  snow in December 2013, with the ladies of Sherpa Women Project.

                   The locations of the camps on the mountain

                Base Camp, 4925 m :    N 28° 46 493,   E 84° 20 969

       The new “French Base Camp” is comfortable, with water nearby and sheltered from avalanches.
        Only the logistics to pitch the camp are a little bit complex, since it is necessary to cross the

        Pangir Glacier on big, inconvenient boulders and the way up the moraine on the right bank is 

        exposed to rock fall.

        A more relevant itinerary should be possible, following the river bed to the left to join a small

        valley… (to be  continued)
         In autumn 2014, our team opened up a small trail, different from the route used by Kari Kobler

         in 2013.

                   The base camp of Kari Kobler, buried under an avalanche!
                 During the same period in 2013, more than 50 persons were staying there.

                  Camp 1. 5435 m :  N 28° 45 384,   E 84° 22 147

         Numerous locations are possible.
         Access from Base Camp is quite simple and very quick (2 to 3 hours) on a trekking terrain,

         with moraines and   small valleys.  The snow conditions may alter the progression, of course,

         but there is no slope subject to  avalanches on the way up.

        Camp 2. « Glacier Camp »

        What comes next is much more impressive (seen from far away!) but the initial scree slope

        with small spurs is   not difficult.  It is just an uncomfortable exercise.

        This part of the way up is certainly much more convenient when covered with snow, making

         a nice zigzagging track.

        Join, to the right, the top of a ridge which allows a crossing over to the other side.
        A traverse across a perched scree slope leads to the side of the glacier. Follow the side of the

        glacier (crevasses and disturbed terrain, rocks and snow…) until you can stand up on the

        flatter glacier, with big steps; a few twists and turns are needed.

        Depending on the season and the snow conditions, this part represents the trickiest part of

        the ascent.

        Continue up on the glacier, avoiding a few crevasses.  A first location for a camp is possible

        on the right side of the glacier. Another possible route joins this point with a rocky descent

        (which was equipped with a fixed rope).

        The location of “Glacier Camp” is pleasant and vast enough to welcome several groups.

        It seems subject to little, if any, risk of avalanche (to be verified depending on conditions).
        We climbed roped together on the glacier, which shows little danger of falling into crevasses.

                 The new normal route, as seen from Gyajikang. Other camp locations are possible.

                 Camp I

                 The traverse to reach the glacier, nothing is really difficult since there is even a small

               trail across  the scree.

                The trickiest part between the cliff and the glacier.

                 At the top of the glacier, the slopes are much more comfortable. A rope is required,

               despite  the low risk of falling in a crevasse.

                Christine is making water, quietly installed in front of the tent. The guys are probably

               still having a nap!

                Our Nepalese team, roped together, of course.