CLIMBING TO KORONA PEAK 4800 m
1. Introduction
Location Kyrgyzstan, Tien-Shan, Kirgizski Range
Starting and ending points Bishkek city Duration 5 days, 4 nights
Season Whole Year
Altitude 2100 - 4800 m
Walking about 40 km
Automobile about 100 km
National Park Ala-Archa - is one of the most beautiful places in Kyrgyzstan. Here, on a small area
you can see many interesting natural sites - forests, grasslands, rivers, waterfalls, glaciers, rock
walls, as well as not frightened wild animals.
Also Ala-Archa is one of the best mountaineering areas. There are hundreds of routes of varying
difficulty for everyone.
Crown Peak - is one of the most beautiful peaks, being the visiting card of Ala-Archa area. This is
a large massif, consisting of six rocky towers with a maximum height of 4860 meters. There are
dozens of routes with varying difficulty of them. For the beginning we can offer you the easiest
one - upon Corona glacier to the second tower.
Route has 2A category of difficulty based on the conventional classification in the CIS countries
(from 1 to 6).
To pass this route you need basic skills to work with the rope and the ability to move on crampons
on ice up to 45 degrees. If you often go to the mountains, but have never tried technical climbing,
we suggest taking trainings before. We can combine main tour with climbing courses by adding
several more days to the program. If you are newbie to the mountains, it is suggested to start with
simple ascents, on Uchitel (Teacher) peak.
http://mountainskytravel.com
2 PROGRAM
Day 1. Bishkek City - Ala-Archa National Park – Ratsek hut Automobile 50 km, 1 hour Walking 7 km,
5-7 hours Altitude 800-2100-3300 m Transfer from Bishkek city to National Park Ala-Archa (2100m).
Then walk along the picturesque gorge of Ak-Sai to Ratseka hut (3300 m). Accommodation in a mountain hut or in own tents on the territory of Ratseka Hut. There we will have short acclimatiza-
tion treks around the neighborhood.
Day 2. Acclimatization-training day Walking 5 km Altitude 3300-3650-3300 m After the breakfast we
prepare equipment and go to Ak-Sai icefall. We practice on ice routes, working with rope and ice
equipment. Overnight in the Ratsek Hut.
Day 3. Ratsek Hut - Corona Hut Trek 5 km, difference in altitude 600 m, 3-5 hours Altitude
3350-3950 m.
After the breakfast we pack our stuff and go upon moraine along the left side of icefall to plateau of
Ak-Sai glacier. Further our way lies over the glacier; here we need harnesses, ropes and ice axes.
Upon arrival to the hut we have a rest, then there would be trainings on working with rope and equipment. Overnight in Corona hut.
Day 4. Ascent to Korona Peak (4800 m) Trek 6 km, 8-10 hours Altitude 3950-4800-3950 m.
We leave after early breakfast. We put on harnesses, helmets and crampons in the cabin and do not
take off it for all day.
After the first steep climb we will make rope teams because there are cracks along the path. In comp
-lex parts we go by turns. The entire route is ice-snow surface and only the last 20 meters is rock part.
Panorama from here is great - this is one of the highest peaks of the Kyrgyz ridge. Descend by the
same way. Overnight in the Korona hut.
Day 5. Descent to Ala Archa National Park, transfer to Bishkek.
Trek 12 km, 6-7 hours Altitude 3950-2100-800m
After breakfast, we pack our stuff and go down to the alpine camp Ala-Archa, by already familiar route. Transfer to Bishkek city. http://mountainskytravel.com
3 Necessary equipment:
• sleeping bag 3-4 seasons
• alpine boot
• harness
• crampons
• ice ax
• jumar
• helmet
• carabines 3pc.
• windproof jacket and pants
• warm jacket and pants
• warm gloves and a hat
• sunglasses
• sunscreen
• backpack 60-80 liters
• water tank or thermos
• flashlight
It is recommended to bring:
• insulated jacket
• hiking poles
For econom package you also need:
• equipment for cooking;
• food
• rope and ice screws.
Important:
You should have insurance coverage for 30,000 US Dollars.
The insurance should cover injured transportation.