How to prevent climbing mistakes(5/5)

[홍 종만]

MOUNTAINEERING MISTAKES

39, Not acclimatizing

    Even if you’re as fit as a marathon runner, altitude does not care. The body needs time

    to adjust to low-oxygen living. Spend the first days of your expedition climbing high

    and then sleeping down low. Pay attention to the early signs of altitude sickness:

    headaches, nausea, and lack of appetite. If you feel mildly ill, it’s a good idea to stay

    at the same elevation until you feel better before you continue the ascent. If you have

    more severe signs—a splitting headache or a wet cough—descend immediately

40, Going unroped in crevassed terrain

    Tie in even if crevasses look well covered or if you’re following others’ tracks. Snow

    bridges collapse without warning. And make sure you have the tools and skills you’ll

    need to rescue your partner or yourself from a crevasse.

41, Roping up without pro on steep, firm snow

    Roping up while moving together on steep, snowy terrain is often a good idea—but

    not always. If you don’t have pickets, ice screws, or other pro between you, and if the

    snow conditions don’t allow reliable self-arrests, roping together adds risk for the

    entire team. Don’t let the presence of the rope trick you: You may be safer soloing.

    REAL LIFE

    In 1981, a team of seven Japanese climbers, roped together, was descending from an

    unsuccessful attempt on Gongga Shan(7,590m) in China. When one member slipped,

    all seven fell to their deaths.

42, No plan for a whiteout

     Weather changes fast, and straightforward terrain gets tricky when you can’t see.

     Always have a plan for retreating safely when visibility drops to nil. Take back

     bearings with your compass. Leave wands to mark your route. Use a GPS to mark

     waypoints.

43, Dehydration

    On big, snowy mountains, cold temps can suppress thirst, but being hydrated helps

    you perform better and acclimatize quicker. Drink before you get thirsty, drink often,

     and drink copiously.

44, No emergency sunglasses

    Snow blindness is temporary, but it can paralyze your ability to function, and it hurts

    like a bitch.

45, Leaving sunblock off the underside of your nose

    Life on the glacier is all about reflected sunlight. Don’t forget to slather up between

    your nostrils.

DO: Carry a map. A forced change in plans often will drop you into a different

   drainage than where you started, and the return journey may not be as simple

   as you think.

AID CLIMBING MISTAKES

46, Not tying in below your jumars

     Having an ascender pop off as you jug a fixed line is not all that uncommon—having

     two pop off could be lethal. Don’t forget to tie in to a locking carabiner on your belay

     loop as you go; every 30 feet on steep, clean ascents is about right. Always tie a

     back-up before tricky overhangs or traverses.

47, Looking at a placement while bounce testing

    What’s worse than having your piece pull when you test it? Having that piece smack

    you in the face. Turn the top of your helmet toward that mank.

48, Bringing too much (or not enough) water

    Nothing slows a multi-day climb like hoisting a swimming pool in your haul bag. On  

    the other hand, you’ll also be slowed to a crawl by becoming so dehydrated that you

    start to consider drinking your own urine. Carefully estimate water needs based on the

    sunniness of the route, season, and water content of other foods that you’re bringing

   (soup for dinner=less water). Three quarts of water per person per day is a good rule of

    thumb in the late fall and early spring; a gallon or more may be appropriate on sunny

    walls in August.

49, Passing another party when you’re not actually faster

    Passing a slower party is copacetic, with their consent. But make sure they’re actually

    slower, and not just grappling with a crux that would slow your team just as much. If

    you crowd a team above you only to stall out after passing, admit your mistake and

    offer the other team its original front position.

50, “Soiling” your partner

   Don’t allow urine or excrement to touch your partner, your rope, or any of your gear.

    Plan ahead, account for wind, and find a stable spot. Most “emergencies” are easily

    avoided by heeding the warning signs, just as you would at home or at work.

[백두]

게으름 반 개인사정 반으로 오랬동안 뵙지를 못하였습니다. 선배님이 올려 주신 글들은 감사히 잘 읽고 있습니다. 아쉬운 것은, 그전부터 생각해 왔던 것이지만, 이러한 산행, 등반, 빙벽 정보들은 자료실 하부 목록을 만들어서 올리고 보관 하였으면 하는 것입니다. 원하기만 한다면 널려 있는것이 정보 이지만 우리 산악회에 맞는 정보를 모아 열람할수 있다면 많은 도움과 활성화가 이루어질 것 같습니다. 특히 산악회 특성상 안전과 기술, 장비 등에 대한 정보교환은 무엇보다 필수이고 중요 하다고 생각 합니다. 전산부가 있고 선배님 두분이 감독으로 계시니 짧은 소견을 올려 보았습니다. 토요일 산에서 뵙겠습니다.

[풍산]

좋은 의견이십니다. 왭싸이트에 관심을 갖어주시고 의견을 피력해주셔서 감사합니다. 일단 좌측 메뉴 중 "자료실"에 옮겨서 보관 하겠습니다. 하부목록을 만들 수 있으면 만들어 보겠습니다. 그럼 토요일날 뵙겠습니다.