ㅡ Summit Post의 몽블랑 Three Monts Route( Cosmiques - Mont Peak )

[곽노성(샛별)]

https://www.summitpost.org/mont-blanc-3-mounts-blanc-traverse/202778

Mont Blanc is a long and tiring climb, but it gives a great satisfaction as it is the highest and the most prestigious summit of the eponymous massif. The "Normal" routes are two on the French side and one on the Italian side: the easiest is the one that from Chamonix goes up to the recently reconstructed Gouter refuge, to then follow the Bosses crest. The second one is slightly more difficult from the Cosmiques Refuge rising through the 3 mountains or Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and finally Mont Blanc.

3개의 노말 루트

 1) 프랑스 2개 : (1)  Gouter refuge - Bosses crest

                     (2)  Cosmiques Refuge -3개의 산(peak?) 통과 : a. Tacul, b. Maudit, c. Mont Blanc. 

 2) 이탈리아 1개 

Summit of Monte Bianco

The 3 Mounts Blanc Traverse is probably the longest and the most panoramic amongst the Normal Routes to join Mont Blanc summit. It starts from the Aiguille du Midi and ends on the summit of Mont Blanc. For the descent route you will have the choice between the Dôme du Goûter Normal Route, the Grands Mulets Route or by coming back again to the Aiguille du Midi. Note: The 3 Mounts traversee follows the Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit Normal routes for the first part of the ascent.

가장 길고, 파노라마 풍광.

아귀디 미디( 3800m 케이블카 정류장 )에서 시작.

하산 : 1. 아귀디 미디로 원위치,  2 구테 루트로 하산, 3/ Grands Mulets Route(에귀디 미디 케이블 카 중간 정거장)

Getting There

The starting point is Chamonix Mont Blanc.

Getting to Chamonix

- coming from Italy: go through the Mont Blanc Tunnel, joining directly Chamonix
- coming from Switzerland:  you may come from Martigny by driving up the Forclaz Pass and the Col the Montets, or from Geneva using the "Mont Blanc highway".

As you reach Chamonix you will certainly see the cables of the enormous cable car of the Aiguille du Midi... You can't be wrong. Take the cable car up to the Aiguille du Midi and follow the indications "Alpinist Exit" as come on the top of the Aiguille. (If you have a few time, visit the panoramic terrasse of the Aiguille du Midi, you will appreciate the entire route up to the summit of Mont Blanc.

Route Description

Three Mounts Blanc traverse report - UIAA Scale

Summit altitude: 4810 m
Difficulty: Alpine PD+
Difference in level: 1200 m Refuge du Cosmiques : 코스미크 대피소와 몽블랑 피크 사이 1200m 차이  
Huts and bivouacs: Refuge du Cosmiques 3613 m
Starting point: Chamonix

** 난이도 : PD: Peu Difficile/a little difficult. Some technical climbing and complicated glaciers. ...

Steep climbing or long snow/ice slopes above 50 degrees; for experienced alpine climbers only.

The 3 Mounts Route

If you sleep at the Cosmiques Hut, leave it ar around 1.30 AM and reach the Col du Midi (3532m) 100 meters below. From here walk south and begin climbing up the North face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. The face becomes steeper and you will have to walk around some seracs and crevasses. The route changes every year or even more frequently because of the glacier movings. This first step brings you to the Epaule du Mont Blanc du Tacul at around 4100 meters.

Cosmiques Hut에서 잠을 자는 경우, 오전 1시 30분경 출발.  Col du Midi(해발 3532m ) 100m 아래에 도착한다. 여기서 남쪽으로 진행하여 Mont Blanc du Tacul북면으로 올라 간다.. 

점점 경사가 높아지며 몇몇 세락과 크레바스를 지나야 한다.

루트는 방하의 이동으로  매년 변경 된다.

얼마 후, Mont Blanc du Tacul의 어깨( 해발 4100m )에 다다른다.

3 Mounts traverse - The itinerary from the Shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul -  Photo nattfodd

From the Epaule go on walking south until the Col Maudit (4035 meters) and from here move to the right to join the North Face of the Mont Maudit. The face is really steep but less dangerous of the fisrts one because of the seracs. The North Face ends with a 40-50° degrees ice climb to reach the Col du Mont Maudit (4345m). This key passage is often the point where people decide to stop the climb. As you have crossed the Col du Mont Maudit you walk south once again to reach the Col de la Brenva (4303) and from here once again to your right to climb up the steep wall of the Mur de la Côte. Over this wall you stand on the Plateau de Petits Rochers Rouges (~4550 meters). Now you just have to walk up in N-W direction to the summit of the Mont Blanc (4807 meters). The ascent will take you around 6 hours depending on the seracs conitions and the people on the route.

타퀄 어깨에서 Col Maudit( 해발  4035m )로 걸어 가서, Mont Maudit 북면으로 진입하는데, 북면은 경사가

급하나, 세락이 없어서 이전 보다는 덜 위함하다.

북면은 40~ 50도의 빙벽을 지나서 Mont Maudit에 도달하면 끝이다( 4345m ).

( 꽤 많은 사람들이 이곳에서 더이상 등반을 하지 않는다. )

계속 남쪽으로 진행하여  Col de la Brenva( 4303m )에 도착하면, 꽤 경가가 급한 Mur de la Côte을 등반

한다.

Mur de la Côte를 지나면, Petits Rochers Rouges 평원( Plateau de Petits Rochers Rouges (~4550 meters))에 서게되며, 북동으로 계속진행하면 몽블랑 봉우리에 다 다른다.   

                                 Other parties at Col de la Brenva at sunrise

                                                           Watch your step!

Descent

The descent from the same route is quite long and when you have finished the descent reaching the Col du Midi (3532 meters) you will have to climb up 300 meters to take the cable car on the Aiguille du Midi (3842 meters)... The route takes around 5 hours. If you have enough legs after the ascent you may go down from the Grands Mulets Normal Route and reach the midle station of the cable car at Plan de l'Aiguille (2310 m)... It takes almost 6 hours from the summit and is a bad idea in bad weather conditions. Choose this way down if you have skis with you! Most of the teams are descending by the Dôme du Goûter Normal route and then down to the little train at Nid d'Aigle.

Essential Gear

하산 

올라 왔던 루트로 하산은 정말 루트가 길다.

Col du Midi (3532 meters)에서 어귀디 미디 케이블가 정류장까지는 300m를 등반해야 하는데, 거의 5시간

이나 소요한다. 

Grands Mulets Normal Route로도 하산하나, 날씨가 나쁠때에는 정말 나쁜 결정이 될 것이다.

대부분의 팀들은, 구테 산장을 통한 노말 루트를 택한다. 

Essential Gear

Ice Axe, crampons, rope (50 m), 1 ice screw per person, Helmet. And the normal high altitude equipement for cold weather. In the beginning of the season think about a Barryvox. It may be 5°C and -15°C 1 bour later...

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions

Huts and Bivouacs

피켈, 크랜폰, 50m 로프, "아이스 스크류 1개/ 인", 안전모자, 고산 추위에 적절한 방한 준비.

씨즌 초기에는  Barryvox 비콘을 준비하는 것을 고려해라.

Red Tape( 제한 조건 ) : 별로 없음

                                              Rifugio des Cosmiques (3613...

Huts and Bivouacs

As it is quite impossible to do the traversee whithout sleeping somewhere on the route, a good idea is to make a reservation into the Refuge des Cosmiques (3617 m), which may be reached in around 30 minutes of easy glacier walk from the Aiguille du Midi.  As it is a private hut of the French Glaciology Service, the prices are quite high.  If you prefer to stay alone, you have the possibility to set up your tent on the Col du Midi, under the hut. Camping is allowed from arond 5 PM until 7 AM. (You normally have to dismantle your camp before leaving for the summit. You can let the tent there in its bag, no one will steal it, but you will have to come back here from the summit to recover it).

- Refuge des Cosmiques  m. 3613 – C.A.F.

대피소, 비부악

 코스믹 대피소에 자는 것을 권한다. 사유 대피소라 비용이 만만치 않다. 

 코스믹 대피소 밑에 텐트를 설치하고 잘수 있다. ( 저녁 5시에서 아침 7시까지만 )

Accomodation in Chamonix

Chamonix is a primary destintion, offering several accomodations (hotels, huts, gites, renting rooms). Numberless campsites are situated both in the Northern and Southern ends of the town.

Main campsites:  샤모니 시내 캠핑장 

- Camping Glacier d'Argentière - Argentière (8 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450541736
- Camping la Mer de Glace - Les Praz (3 km. North to Chamonix) +33(0)450534403
- Camping les Deux Glaciers - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450531584
- Camping les Arolles - close to the centre of Chamonix - +33(0)450531430
- Camping les Cimes - Les Bossons (3 km. South to Chamonix) +33(0)450535893
- Camping les Marmottes - +33(0)450536124

When to climb : The best period goes from July to September

최적 시즌 : 7월부터 9월 

Meteo : 기상(날씨 )

Meteo Chamonix 
Meteo Regione Valle d'Aosta

Useful information

- Office de la Haute Montagne de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 532208 Office de la Haute Montagne
- Cable-car informations Phone +33 0450 532275 Compagnie du MontBlanc
- Office du Tourisme de Chamonix Phone +33 0450 530024 Chamonix Mont-Blanc

Guidebooks and maps

Guidebooks

“Monte Bianco Vol. I” di Gino Buscaini, Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI TCI, 1994.
“Monte Bianco - Guide Vallot” ed. Mediterranee, 1999.
“Il massiccio del Monte Bianco – Le 100 più belle ascensioni” by Gaston Rébuffat, Zanichelli Edizioni
“Rifugi e Bivacchi delle Alpi Occidentali” by Cesare Re, Ed. Guide Macchione, 2005
“Rifugi e Bivacchi del CAI” by Franco Bo, Ed. Priuli e Verlucca, 2002

Maps

CNS 1:50000, Courmayeur, foglio 292 
Kompass 1:50000, Monte Bianco, foglio 85 
De Agostini 1:50000, Monte Bianco

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