#111 Making a Turtle Float

[스티븐스 대사]

June 1, 2011

Riding continues apace as we journey south.  The highlight of our latest day’s ride, beginning in Boryeong and ending in Gunsan was our stop on the north side of the Geum River in Seocheon to see and tour construction of a full-sized replica of Admiral Yi Sun-shin’s turtle boat, or geobukseon.  Mr. Ahn Gwang-il, the director involved in the replica project, explained to us that this is not the first time Koreans have rebuilt a turtle ship.  More than previous replication efforts, however, this project is based on extensive recent research on the dimensions and construction methods consistent of both ironclad vessels and other military ships at the time.

While most Koreans already know this, for others, by way of background, the turtle ship, known generally as a geobukseon, was a large warship belonging to the Panokseon class in Korea that was used intermittently by the Royal Korean Navy during the Joseon Dynasty, from the early 15th Century right up until the 19th Century.

Replica Turtle Ship being built in Seocheon

The geobukseon’s genesis is credited to Admiral Yi Sun-shin, warrior, scholar, artist and all-around man of many talents.  I remember the statue of Admiral Yi had only recently been installed at the head of Gwanghwamun Square when I first came to Korea, and in true naval fashion, he still anchors this centerpiece of Seoul’s city center today.  Likewise, on this trip we visited his burial site in Asan, and with this trip were able to witness firsthand the breadth and scope of Admiral Yi’s genius. 

Visiting Admiral Yi’s grave in Asan

I was surprised and intrigued to learn that this geobukseon was being built for the Gyeongsangnamdo Government.  Even so, they are building the ship in Seocheon because this is the only place in Korea where skilled craftsmen who can build wooden boats still are active.  Only several dozen men are working on the project, almost all of them in their 50s or 60s, or possibly even older, although as we watched them work we saw the vitality and passion of youth when it comes to a beloved project.

Workers are adjusting the huge oars before the Turtle Ship’s launch

As the head craftsman/crew foreman explained their construction method, I found, at least to a non-expert like myself, similarities between the building styles of geobukseon and building a traditional hanok, especially the use of wooden beams and the amazing fact that no nails are used in the ship’s construction.  The feverish pitch of activity from the skilled craftsmen might be due to the fact that the ship is set to launch in two days, a few days’ after which it will head for Gyeongsangnamdo and ports unknown.

Mr. Ahn, when not contributing his knowledge and expertise to this amazing project, is working with a U.S. company looking for the remains of other turtle boats, to learn more about these remarkable vessels.  He clearly relishes his work, as do all the craftsmen we saw making final preparations on vessel.  His enthusiasm and the sense of teamwork and shared purpose omnipresent at the build site, put into mind a calligraphy passed to me by the Asan Mayor Bok Ki-wang, attributed to Admiral Yi:  Pil Sa Jeuk Saeng (필사즉생) – “When you no longer fear death, only then do you begin to live.”  With this ship, Admiral Yi’s own virtuosity will live on in the minds and hearts of its builders, and all those who visit this formidable vessel.

Group shot of today’s bike riders in front of the Turtle Ship