#112 From Kunsan to Gomso Port

[스티븐스 대사]

June 2, 2011

On this day’s ride we revisited places I had seen fairly recently, and others I hadn’t seen for many years.  In each case, this was the first time for us to experience them by bicycle, which makes a big difference in what we can observe and learn.

Our day began at Kunsan Air Base, home to U.S. airmen who serve in Korea away from their families.  Despite this, they are enthusiastic about living in Kunsan and have extraordinary esprit de corps.  My visit to Kunsan last time (September 26, 2009) was particularly memorable, as I was fortunate enough to fly shotgun in an F-16. (http://cafe.daum.net/usembassy/I2bb/55)  I was happy to be back, this time to experience Kunsan with a mode of transport a little more my speed – two wheels, and pedal powered!

We were joined by several riders from “the Wolfpack,” as the airmen proudly call themselves.  Many of the riders were very serious athletes (one used to be a professional cyclist, and another competes in Ironman triathlons!), and they set a furious pace.  Fortunately, there were a few riders more like me, who took to riding more my style (and at my speed). 

 
The Wolfpack poses with Team Embassy Seoul

Our first milestone was the impressive Saemangum seawall.  As I have reported here before, the Seamangum Project is the world’s largest land reclamation project, lying at the mouths of the Dongjin and Mangyeong Rivers along the Jeollabukdo coast, forming the longest dike in the world.  (http://cafe.daum.net/usembassy/I2bb/64) Early on, the ride was shrouded in mist.  Suddenly as we rode, however, the fog lifted and a blue sky appeared above, guiding us off the massive dike, where we pedaled on a stunning coastal road rolling through beaches, oceans, mountains, and pine trees combined into one sweeping vista.  I had heard that Byeonsan National Park was so beautiful that many Koreans consider it a “must-ride” trail.  Now I understand why.   And you have to go there; a photo just doesn’t capture it.

Several riders compared the scene to other beautiful places from their own memories, like coastal Italy and California.  And the Wolfpack airmen were amazed to find such great opportunities for cycling, hiking, and swimming so close to their base.  Many vowed to return soon.

I have no doubt that they will.  New Wing Commander Colonel Scott Pleus noted that in his previous assignment to Kunsan more than a decade ago, airmen and women were a pretty cloistered lot, rarely venturing beyond the confines of their base.  I was happy to learn from him that these days, however, Kunsan is a highly-sought after posting, due at least in part to the plethora of interesting things to do an see in the immediate vicinity of Kunsan Airbase.  Kunsan will be even more sought after once word of this beautiful ride, a surprise even to the most serious of Wolfpack riders, begins to spread. 

 
Amazing scenery; what you can’t see are the breathtaking mountains and trees on the other side

As we entered Byeonsan our pace slowed as we took in the scenery before us.  We took advantage of the opportunities to take breaks, stretch, and meet some locals.  I struck up a conversation with an old man working outside a restaurant on the precipice of a beautiful cliff.  He asked me where we had come from.  My response, “Kunsan,” was not good enough:  “No, where are you from?” he asked.  I tried again:  “Seoul.”  “No, no, no,” he said, “where are you from?”  I told him the United States.  “Ah,” he replied knowingly, “America is a beautiful country, but you should live in beautiful Korea, which has no tornadoes, or tsunamis, or anything bad.” 

We ended our day visiting a magnificent ancient Buddhist temple at Naesosa.  We appreciated the lecture on the history of the temple and Buddhism’s place in Korean history, and later sat down to a delicious vegetarian meal at the temple.  Touring the grounds and listening to our guide explain the temple’s vision, I reflected on the values of tolerance and respect for all.  In that respect, this visit was especially meaningful.

 
Sitting in the main building of Naesosa

 
Venerable Jin-o giving a lecture to all of us