#113 A Perfect Day

[스티븐스 대사]

June 3, 2011

If you read this blog you know by now that I think cycling is one of the best ways to see Korea, or for that matter any country.  On a bike you see things with different eyes and at a different pace; you have the time to notice more.  You get a chance to meet all sorts of people, and in Korea I am always struck by the warmth and friendliness that greets us as we bicycle.  Sometimes, the encounters are planned; other times, we meet people by chance.  But it usually adds up to a rewarding experience.  Today was a perfect case in point.

Our ride took us through fields of golden ripening barley contrasting with the deep green of newly-planted rice, and again into the hills, where we watched the sea crash into stone cliffs. Today was our longest ride, totaling over 112 km, and it took us through challenging terrain.  And even though we spent most of the day pedaling, we still had time to see so many fascinating things.  Here’s a flavor of all we experienced in a day:

● We traversed three counties - from Buan to Gochang to Yeonggwang, and two provinces, Jeollabukdo to Jeollanamdo;

Riding hills along Baek-su Coastal Road in Yeong-gwang

● We stopped to appreciate a traditional thatched roof house where Master Pan-sori-Singer Kim So Hee was born.

● We visited Inchon House, birthplace of Kim Seong-su, founder of Korea University and Donga Ilbo.  We were met by a local guide who told us about Kim’s family history and their contributions to modern Korea.  While I knew something about  Kim Seong-su from an earlier visit to Korea University, I learned that his birth house is still an incubator of Korean leaders -- Jeong Woon-cheon, 17th Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Minister, also lived there.

Visiting Inchon House with a local guide

● We were biking so fast we had time for an unplanned side trip to Seonunsa, set amid magnificent magnolia trees. 

 

Visiting Seonunsa, what great scenery and weather!

 

● At the temple, we met a few dozen of the youngest temple-goers I’ve ever seen - barely walking, but amazingly well-behaved.

Greeting the youngest tourists we’ve met so far!

● We had a fabulous lunch of freshwater eel, grilled over hot rocks.  After we ate the delicious food, I was humbled to learn that the gracious restaurant owner had re-decorated the restaurant with Hangeul wallpaper in preparation for our visit.  We promised to return!

Eel grilling for lunch

 

● We met the Gochang County Mayor, Lee, Kang-soo, who personally gave us a background briefing on the Donghak Peasant Movement at a monument commemorating the movement.  We also discussed the challenges facing farmers and other residents in the area.  Mayor Lee’s hospitality was second to none:  The fresh local fruit, homemade wildberry (Bokbunja) juice, and  organic yogurt, all produced in Gochang County, were all delicious.

Gochang County Mayor and the Embassy team at the Donghak Peasant Movement site

 

● Our group then rode through Yeonggwang County, marveling at the strings of dried gulbi fish hanging in every store window.  As many of you know, gulbi is a delicious fish that was traditionally eaten on special occasions and was a favorite of ancient Korean royalty. Yeonggwang County Mayor Chung Ki-ho met us as we entered town and assured us that after our hard ride we’d have a chance to taste the famous fish.

Receiving a warm welcome from Yeonggwang County mayor

 

● Later, we accompanied Mayor Chung to the opening of Yeonggwang’s annual Beopseongpo Dano & Gulbi Festival.  Together we lit a luminary to signal the start of the celebration.  I wished for “Eternal Glory for Yeongwang County, “ or "영광에 영원한 영광을!"

 
Lighting and floating a luminary with a wish

 

● After the luminary went up, we watched a parade of traditional dancers, musicians, and floats all praising the gulbi; and

 
Enjoying a parade at Beopseongpo Dano & Gulbi Festival.
The monk and Korean traditional band performed with all their hearts.

● Just happened to meet someone I knew from long ago who just happened to be in the audience.

Couple this busy itinerary with spectacular scenery and warm, friendly hospitality, and what do you get? 

The recipe for a perfect day.