#132 Eight Rivers, One Mountain, One Day, Many Friends

[스티븐스 대사]

The celebration of Chuseok has changed since I first came to Korea many years ago; it no longer feels so connected with rural rhythms and harvests.  It came early this year, and the feel of summer lingers – the noisy cicadas still buzz, the tree leaves remain green.  We can feel in the cooling breeze and the bluer skies that the season of “high skies and fat horses” approaches, though, and along with “lots of traffic” Chuseok remains a time in Korea to gather with family and friends, to prepare food and gifts.  Children will be either adored (the very young) or admonished (the students preparing for exams) by the entire family.  It’s a great time to be in Korea.

I love the countryside during Chuseok, but like many non-Koreans and an increasing number of Koreans, I’ve decided I also like staying in Seoul during Chuseok.  The city is largely empty and shuttered, and we can explore at a more relaxed pace.  For those of us who like exploring by bicycle, Chuseok is one of the best opportunities of the year to ride the streets and byways of Seoul without the usual crush of traffic. 

Team Embassy and Friends by the Han River, Seoul, September 12, 2011

This year the traffic was not as light as we expected, but the weather was great.  Embassy officer Tom Underwood, who spends even more time on a bicycle (and planning bike trips) than I do, had developed an “Eight Rivers” tour in the Seoul vicinity he was eager to share with us.  So our group circled Seoul along a route that included important historical and ancient transport links, but that can be ridden mostly on purpose-built bike trails along the streams and rivers.  You might not think that it’s possible – but following the Han River and seven of its tributaries to the north almost closes the loop.  In between is the challenging Bukak Skyway.  Altogether a diverse and challenging 80 km course!  The Eight Rivers are the Han, Changneungcheon, Sunchangcheon (well, it’s barely a stream), Bulgwangcheon, Hongjecheon, Seongbukcheon, the famous Cheonggyecheon and Joongnangcheon.  Follow the green arrows on Mr. Underwood’s hand-drawn map:

Our first stop was at the ancient stone bridge at Kangmedong.  Hard to believe that this was the main road between Seoul and Pyeongyang in Chosun days!  Later, on the Joongnangcheon, we passed Salgoji Bridge, or arrow-struck bridge, which used to be the longest stone bridge in Korea.  These are treasures of ancient Korean infrastructure.  Too few are still intact.

Riding over Kangmedong Bridge

The nearby Haengju Fortress on Deogyang Mountain overlooking the Han was the site of a major Korean victory against Japanese occupiers in 1593.  The Chungjangsa shrine there honors General Gwon Yul, who together with Admiral Yi Sun-shin was largely responsible for the liberation of Chosun.  We entered a small theater to watch a film about this historic victory.   

Finding lunch on a Chuseok outing can be a challenge!  Fortunately, we came across a wonderful place selling naengmyon and dwaeji galbi next to the Five West Tombs of Chosun or Seo-o-neung.  You can get all the way there following the Changneungcheon and Sunchangcheon.  Within 20 minutes of our arrival the place was full of customers, so we were not the only ones looking!

Refuel Stop!  We appreciated the good food and the secure parking for our bicycles!

A short stretch of heavy traffic, two more streams with bike lanes, past the wonderful architectural trio of the Koryo White Buddha, Hongjimun (홍지문), and Changuimun (창의문) gates – and we started climbing. 

I keep Montana close to my heart and I live for the mountains, but Bukaksan is a workout, even on my new mountain bike.  At the top we were rewarded by this stunning view of Seoul, with very clear visibility.  And then it was a straight plunge downhill back to the streams!

What a view!

We met singer Jang Sa-ik at our rest stop!

Then we moved on to the new bike trail along Seongbukcheon to Cheonggyecheon – the stream around which Seoul City grew.  What a transformation!  I expect that many readers have enjoyed strolling along the restored stream with its many attractions.  One is the Cheonggyecheon Museum that celebrates the past, present, and future of the stream.  A 50 meter stretch of recreated shanties over the Cheonggyecheon offers a sanitized version of the slums that grew up around the stream during and after the Korean War.  The stream was covered during the 1960s and an elevated highway was constructed over that in the 1970s.  There is a simulated reconstruction of the underground stream of that period.  Finally, visitors see how Cheonggyecheon was restored through display panels, images and models. 

All in all, a good Chuseok.  And yes, we even ate songpyeon.  A woman at the White Buddha very kindly offered us her homemade songpyeon when we rode up.