El Cap Trip Report

[昇範 진명식]

 

 

• Welcome
• Photography
• Blog
• Euro-Vlog
• Links

 

 

El Cap Trip Report

 

The Nose, El Capitain Trip Report

Friday, May 16, 2008

 

Bobby Pool and I climbed the Nose.  Additional pictures by me, and by Tom Evans are posted in the photography section.  I’ve dreamt of this route for as long as I can remember.  After all these years, The Nose continues to be quite an adventure.  Leading up to El Cap, much planning, deliberating and shuffling of feet must be done. 

As a working stiff, I found quite limited time to train --only 3 short weekends, plus biking to & from work (25 mi/day) for two months.  In the end, it didn’t matter, we had both climbed enough in our lifetimes.

Rack, Ropes & Bivy Gear

We kept our rack as small as we could (approx. double rack) :

1. •(2x) BD C3 #000 - #00
   

2. •BD C3 #0 - #2
   

3. •BD #0.3 - #0.75
   

4. •(2x) BD #1 - #4
   

5. •BD #5
   

6. •OP Link-cam #1
   

7. •(full set) Metolius offset TCUs
   

8. •Metolius TCU orange
   

9. •Metolius Master cam #5
   

10. •CCH Aliens green-red
    

11. •(2x) HB brassie offset micro-nuts
    

12. •BD stopper nuts. 
    

13. •2 QDs, 4 slings, 2 double-shoulder length slings, 2 shorty slings
    

14. •(20+) locking carabiners
    

15. •(60+) carabiners
    

16. •(3) Cam hooks.
    

17. •(5) hero loops
    

Both Bobby and I wished for doubles of both link-cams.  Leapfrogging these while aiding saves phenomenal amounts of time.  The Metolius master cam barely saw rock, yet the BD 0.75 was placed quite frequently.  The smallest of the RPs were mostly unused as well, sizes 3-5 being the best during moderate aid.  Hybrid aliens find more placements than offset TCUs, as TCUs have u-stem lobe attachments on either side of the cam head that block shallower scar placements.  The offsets did get the job done though, and cost over one hundred bucks less a set than CCH.  Many of the “ultralight” TCUs had major trigger wire damage, including breakage or wire fraying.  The hero loops could have been replaced with untied flat webbing.

Ropes/hauling

Equipment : 60m 10.2mm dynamic, 60m 10.2mm static, 30m 8mm static, petzl pro traxion, bd rotor swivel, bd haul bag, A5 designs ledge, CMI micro pulley, BD el-cheapo micro pulley, Metolius waste case. 

We hauled 1:1 using “body haul.”  During two difficult hauls I rigged a yosemite 3:1.  We also employed: a WC ropeman II (rope-grab), & ti-bloc.  (Used for space juggin’, occasional 3:1 z-drag, & redundency.)  A short length of 8mm static fixed the pig to the anchor via munter-mule at each belay.

Because the leader is hauling, its critical that the bag isn’t so heavy that 1:1 bodyweight hauling is unfeasible for one person (unless you plan on 2:1 a ratchet).  During the first day, I had to sit on the haul line as well as kick/push against the wall (exhausting).  After day one, oinkers was light enough that just sitting on the jumar would haul her up minutes before the second reached the belay.

Tied to the same locker as the pig were two 5mm perlioon cow’s tail daisy chains long enough to sit inside the cinch-top of the haul bag.  (2 alpine butterflies, and a bowline tied at the bitter end.)  We always clipped shoes, water, and the food stuff sack to these lines.  Once the cinch was opened you could easily pull all the relevant stuff out.

Shelter

We took very lightweight sleeping bags, and only one Bibbler “bigwall” bivy (to be shared in case of emergency).  Between the two of us, there was only one synthetic insulated parka, one synethic insulated vest, and one soft shell.  We both wore non-insulated synthetic pants (nylon).  We shared clothes depending on belays, and wind protection.  We both wore all our clothes to bed to compensate for light summer bags.  This resulted in perhaps 10+ pounds saved.

Food

After climbing Freeblast a scorching weekend prior, I convinced Bobby into taking a gallon per person-day.  We ended up with 3 gallons each + one emergency gallon.  It was excessive, but gave me peace of mind. We could always pour it out later. Wall cuisine as follows: 6 bagels in crushproof Tuperware, small sausage, three smaller tuna “pouches,” 7 Cliff bars, Peanut granola bars, cheese & cracker packs,  3 Pop-Tarts, dried mangos, beef jerky, Pringles chips, small trail-mix, bulk Skittles, bulk Starburst, bulk gummy dinosaurs (for dinosaur power).

Ledge / Fixing

The ledge ended up being critical.  With around 20 people hovering near sickle ledge, and many people bailing late in the day, we spent over 6 hours waiting behind slow parties, making no progress what-so-ever.  Without a portaledge we would’ve been forced either to quit, wait yet another day, or at the very least climb many more moonlit hours.  Since we could climb & haul the first four pitches in under four hours & because we had a ledge, fixing to sickle didn’t make sense.  We lead in 2-3 pitch blocks (usually only two pitches).  Next time: 3-4 pitch blocks.  It saves lots of time, and once you’re in lead-mode, one more pitch isn’t that bad.

Pitch-by-Pitch

p1: There are so many people fumbling low on the Nose that starting was a chore.  We jug Pine Line only to find a slow moving party half way up the pitch.  (It will take them almost two full days to get to sickle before bailing).  Bobby fixes to a tree only partway up.  We rappel down and wait to start tomorrow.  1/2-pitch fixed, hah!  To celebrate we feast on pizza.

p2 5.11b C1, p3 5.10:  I link these two.  After mentally preparing for the “worst part of the Nose,”  p2 feels fun and delicate.   The 11b was easier to hang-dog than to aid.  The link up takes just over 30 min including hauling.

p4 5.10 C2+ (sickle ledge): Bobby free climbs until the awkward aid traverse onto sickle.  We didn’t bring a talon or bat hook, so he bat/grapple hooks using a CAM hook.  He’ll repeat this maneuver again before we summit.  Many fixed pieces with fresh slings make the lower-outs a breeze.  There are parties messing about with the sickle anchors.  I wait about 20 minutes before starting to clean the pitch.

p5 4th: Walk across sickle ledge.  Here we wait about 1 hour for a slow party to move.  Some climber is singing Eye of the Tiger (including the crunchy guitar effects) in the background.

Unknown climbers below on sickle ledge.

p6 5.9: Fun 5.9 in a corner with great protection, leads to a easier-than-it-looks bulge.  I find another party at the belay, so I aid/french the last 2m.  The second is confused about lower-outs and it takes three attempts and lots of advice to lower-out to the bottom of dolt hole pitch.  He is worn out, & the team fights clusterfucks and logistical problems.  We wait for 6 hours until they realize they need to bail.

p7 5.9 A0 (dolt hole): Bob is very frustrated.  We’re both worried about how little progress we can make today.  We talk about passing via alternate routes, but neither of us can see more than one bolt of the passing variation.  The logistics of passing a party in mid-bail seem risky.  The short penji and pitch are quick.  We find out later that the bolted variation (with no penji) leads to a beautiful 5.9 splitter handcrack.

p8 5.8 (stove legs penji): Bobby charges the penji.  A crazed man is sprinting above my head running sideways, in two-dimensional mario style he leaps over a dihedral, and keeps running.  I shout encouragement!  Go,... run motherfucker! You can do it!  RUN!  After a handful of tries Bob lowers even more and makes the penji.

We bust out the ledge early and rest, enjoying sausage dinner bagels.  Tomorrow is the big day, if we’re fast enough and don’t get held up by shenanigans, we’ll be in good shape.  We plan for 13 pitches (but only make 11).

p9 5.10 ow C1: A bit of oh-dub.  Shit where is that other #4?!  It looks like I have to free this!  I decide to more-french-than-free it.  I’d wedge myself in the crack, walk up the cam while trying to pretend I’m not freaking out, pull myself up with help from the rope --graceful a walrus learning to fly.  After Bobby jumars up I hear “dude, you’ve got another number four clipped to your harness right there.” Doh!

p10 5.10c C1: More fists and off width.  Why does 5.8 fists seem just as hard as 5.10c fists?  Yarr!  I layback and fight, reaching the belay out of breath and panting.  I close my eyes while during the monotony of hauling.  Time slows down.

p11 5.10c C1:  Bob takes us to the top of Dolt Tower.  I don’t even notice how he got through the OW.  At the end of the pitch it eases off and 5.8 crack leads to the Dolt Tower.  I expected something bigger.  Oh well.  We wait here to allow a Nose-in-a-Day crew to blast past.  What beautiful climbing they’re doing!  I need the rest. 

Photograph © Tom Evans, reproduced with permission.

Photograph © Tom Evans, reproduced with permission.

p12 5.8: Bobby quickly jaunts up the 5.8.

p13 5.9:  More fists?!  I brace myself mentally and decide to lay the entire pitch back.  At the belay I stupidly attach the traxion to the power point (low).  Now I only have inches of travel to body haul (instead of the usual 1.5 feet).  Note to self: always clip the hauler as high as possible!  What do we do now?  We were thinking about using Jardine chisel job to save time, but looking it up at, I cant tell how to A0 it.  5.12 face sounds stupid difficult in our state.  I decide to head towards the king-swing. 

p14 5.7: Fun times!  The pitch wanders, but I’m just enjoying my lead.  I’m climbing slower, but steadily.  I almost missed the ledge, but noticed some chalk and 4 feet of face traverse later we arrive at a perfect laser cut ledge.  Bob thinks I stopped short, “this can’t be it man, its gotta be way bigger.”

    “So you’re telling me someone hand drilled 5 bolts here and its not the bivy?!”

    “It is pretty flat...”

Photograph © Tom Evans, reproduced with permission.

p15 5.9: Bobby shouts down to me in a confused voice, “Dude?!,  Its... its like... its like a REAL chimney!” 

    “WHAT?”

    “A REAL chimney.  I don’t know how to chimney!!”  Of course its a chimney, I think.  After ascending the line I instantly understand.  Where is the protection?  Our ropes get stuck twice here on the debris before texas flake.  As I reach the belay, “I don’t need to say anything about the lead do I?”

    “Nope.”

Photograph © Tom Evans, reproduced with permission.

p16 C1+: My turn!  Ladder, to hooks.  One tiny RP leads to cam hooking that seemed more straight forward than micro nuts.  3 cam hooks in a row, but I’m over bolts.  I place a cam hook that is too thin, it I weight it, and start looking for my next placement.  The cam hook slides one foot down the crack.  Whoa!  It holds, and I quickly move on via BD C3s.  The Camelpack mouth-piece breaks rendering it useless.

p17 5.10c: Bobby leads it.  After a little advice from Nanook, he gets the Swing first go, then free climbs to the top of p17.  Yarr!  The lower out is simpler than expected, I use use the 30m line for the pig.  For myself, I tie in short, and pull the rope through the rings at the anchor, then rappel off the end of the rope.  All the while moving the jumars further along the traverse and up rope.

p18: Sick of climbing shoes Bob aides this pitch.  We’re both moving slower. Jugging seems harder and my arms are cramping such that my elbow gets stuck at 90.  Its getting late.  Fuck I’m tired.  I mutter something lame about how we might as well just put the ledge up now.  We’re only two pitches away from camp IV.  Bob encourages me with man-talk, “sometimes you have to keep going.  We need to make up time.”  He just led King Swing without even a peep.  Time to sack up.

p19 5.10d C1:  I’m reluctant to start, but once I’m in lead-mode my brain stops worrying about what-if and moves to what-next.  I’m tired and climbing slower.  Planned on switching to aid once it gets hard.  Halfway up the pitch, I haven’t placed enough pro to be safe.  Decide to gun it for a fixed pin and end up laying back some awkward corner before a mini-bulge.  Almost fall, but screaming holds me on.  Can’t seem to down-climb the layback.  Clip a single biner to the piton, but shoulders are cramping and I can’t lift the rope to clip it.  Now I’m two-fingering the biner.  Shit!  Almost loose it again!  Swap hands on the carabiner,... feet skate.  Getting really gripped.  Time actually stops.   Eventually I get my Yates daisy in. I aid the rest of pitch at drunken-snail speed, using a headlamp to see.   What poor judgement.  A placement before the lay back would have taken quite a few meters off potential falls.  Why was I taking needless risks?

We arrive at an intermediate hauling anchor and call it a night, setting up the ledge via moonlight.  Our ropes get stuck below this ledge.  That night we have gale-force winds that rock the ledge all night long.  Neither one of us sleep.  We’re extremely slow starting the next day.  The sun has shone bright for nearly an hour before I begin dismantling.

p20 5.7: Bob takes us up to camp IV.  Another bivy missed. 

p21 C1: Feeling worked from yesterday, Bobby aides.

p22 C2F: Bob trades me pancake flake for the great roof.  The aiding takes quite a while, but he leaves plenty of gear for the second.  With the fixed gear, seconding the pitch is a breeze.  One jumar pops off and I decide to live a little longer.  We start clipping the “extra” ‘biner to the top of our ascenders.  Previous parties had already tied hero loops to the lower-out pieces.  The roof ends in mandatory 5.7 face for two moves.  In your tennis shoes it seems wild!

Photograph © Tom Evans, reproduced with permission.

Photograph © Tom Evans, reproduced with permission.

p23 5.10: Pancake flake.  The bolts are now chopped, but that doesn’t matter.  This pitch eats up good protection.  Its pitches like this one that make the Nose so classic.  This bomber hand crack continues forever!  Feeling increasingly broken down, I can only climb in short bursts between protection. 

Photograph © Tom Evans, reproduced with permission.

p24 5.11+ C1+ (Camp IV):  An inward sloping crack is hidden deep inside this flaring corner.  I try to top step all my placements.  To stay upright while top stepping, I must use the finger crack and get small thin finger locks, while using OW foot stacking technique against the crack whilst in etriers.  Quite strenuous, but faster than usual. Eventually the slopes flatten out, and the aid becomes straight forward. A 5.5 friction ramp felt daunting in tennis shoes.  Rope drag inducing meandering yields the upper belay.

Photograph © Tom Evans, reproduced with permission.

p25 C1 (Glowering spot): Excellent straightforward aid. “I personally guarantee this rope will not get stuck.” ;)

p26 5.8 C1+ (Camp VI): Yay! 

We’re so high up now.  The view is breathtaking.  The summit looks so close. Should we keep pushing skyward?  Spending a night on an actual bivy ledge sounds much more enjoyable.  Chuck and Nanook catch up to us and decide to take it easy.  We hang out that night.  Hey, wash the soap, we have company over!

Final day!

Photo by: Logan Tallbot.

p27 C2 (Changing corners):  This pitch NEVER ends.  After I clear potential decking height, I start running it out.  Its hard to know if I’ll need a piece again, and the crack stays parallel for sections.  Since we have a double rack...  Many #4-5 RP offsets this pitch.  In the gnarliest part I watch a C3’s lobe open slowly while placing an RP.  Finally I reach the 5.8 section, but free climbing sounds like so much work.  Once you get into those etriers its hard to ever get back out.  I shamefully C1 the 5.8 ledges.

p28 5.8 C1: I aid past the 10d section, and free the rest.  Man, this pitch would be so stellar if it were craggable.  Right now I don’t have it in me.  The aiding is fun, top stepping is very easy on this pitch. 

p29 C1:  Bob mellows out and aides up.  C-one-is-fun!  Crazy exposed view, the entire ocean of granite opens up below your feet.  Trees look miniscule.  I belay bobby with feet in the etriers, practically laying down, eating skittles.  Best belay ever.

p30 C1:  Can these link with a 60m?  After a quick debate, Bob decides to pitch it out.  The short lower angle crack eats gear and Bob reaches the one-bolt belay.

p31 (bolt ladder): I figured if Harding drilled all these bolts into the night, that they’d be super far apart.  However each bolt was pretty close to its predecessor.  Following this pitch was easy, I re-aided by way of fifi in the bolt hangers.

p32 (Summit Tree):  Wait, hold the phone... we’re not done?!  I run up to the tree.  Fix some sings and hook up the traxion.  I arm-haul to assist Bob who is dragging up the pig.  We stay tied in until the pig reaches the trees.  We leave three spare unopened gallons of water at the top.

Descent:

If given the option stay low closer to the cliff-side.  We, found old trails, that demanded bushwhacking.  The rappels are simple and mellow with fixed lines.

 

I wrote this trip report to supplement all the helpful information I found on the web, that made the Nose feel so much more possible.

Add a Comment

Add a Comment