temple mtn 등반 자료및 예상 계획

[jkpark]

참고로 본인의 예상을 올려 봅니다.

****  아래 사이트에서 사진 참조  ****
http://valchev.net/peter/trips/temple2007/index.html
http://ross-mcewen.blogspot.ca/2013/07/east-ridge-of-mt-temple-2013.html
http://www.summitpost.org/east-ridge-iv-5-7/319166
http://www.ericandlucie.com/Website2003/Canadian%20Rock%20Climbs/Mt%20Temple/Mt

%20Temple.htm
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bazehead/sets/72157621900968461/  
http://vimeo.com/14455568
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36458

*****  등반 계획  ***

계획: 
     start -> big step start        3 시간
     big step 구간 (4 pitch)        3 시간
     traverse to black tower        2 시간
     black tower 구간(4th 5pitch)   3 시간
     to peak                        2 시간  (peak 까지 total 13 시간)
     하산                           4 시간
 
        하산 까지 총 예상 시간( 17 시간)
     (하지만, 2 명이 조를 이루면 15 시간  예상됩니다)

      2:30 기상
      4:00 start
      19:00 car

   start 는  11.5 km 가서 (from  lake louise village)  park, 여기서 start
  (moraine lake 에서는  2 ~ 2.5 km  뒤로 가서  사태지역에서 오른다)

****  타팀들의 등반시간 ***

     등반에 걸리는 시간  ( 최소 11 시간  ~ 최대18 시간)

******************************** 장비 목록  ******************

 암벽장비:
Gear notes: No need for hexes. Few nuts. One set of cams (green alien to Blue

Camalot). 8 slings + biners; maybe a screw or two in case the ridge is icy.

 개인장비:
-Wool/blend socks
-Long underwear - top - synthetic or wool
-Soft shell climbing pants - these should be windproof nylon/synthetic blend

mountaineering pants
-Mid-weight top - synthetic or wool
-Soft shell jacket - this should be a windproof nylon/synthetic blend jacket
-Outer jacket and pants - waterproof with a hood on the jacket and side zips on

the pants (Gore-Tex)
-Insulated jacket - synthetic or down
-Gaiters - ensure they fit over your mountaineering boots
-Mountaineering gloves - light weight and medium to heavy weight pairs
-Hat - synthetic or wool that covers your ears and fits under a helmet
-Sunhat - with wide brim

-Lightweight mountaineering boots - Ideally these boots should be lightweight

leather or synthetic with a semi-rigid or rigid sole.  It is possible to buy

boots such as the La Sportiva 'Trango' which are designed specifically for alpine

rock.  As always, the most important feature of a mountaineering boot or approach

shoe is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying try a

few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don't buy them. There are

many good brands. They include Asolo, Kayland, La Sportiva and Scarpa and 5.10.
-Daypack - Big enough to fit extra clothing, equipment and your food.  A 30-35

liter capacity is suitable.
-Rock Shoes - Comfort is essential as you will be wearing these for prolonged

periods of time.
-Harness
-Helmet
-Ice Axe - regular glacier axe, minimum 55cm length. Light weight versions are

appropriate for this trip.
-Crampons - must fit your boots
-belay device
-Sunglasses - with 100% UV protection
-Sun cream - extra strength
-Lip cream - with UV protection
-Headlamp - with fresh batteries
-Waterbottle
-First aid items - keep this small (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin/tylenol, etc.)
-Camera
-Trekking pole - must be collapsible (optional)

*************************************************************

전체개요:  (여러곳에서 설명된 전체개요 입니다. 4개가 있는데 읽어보면 전체적인 개요 

              가 떠 오릅니다.)

  1) We access this route along the Moraine Lake Road in Lake Louise.  A short

hike alongside an obvious avalanche slope brings you to the base of the ridge and

the beginning of the scrambling up 4th class terrain on good quartzite rock. 

This leads to the Big Step, a 200 meter buttress involving a good portion of the

technical climbing.  It contains good protection and some fixed pitons. Following

this route up thru the gulley and a chimney system takes you to the upper ridge,

which we follow to the bottom of the Black Towers.  Approximately 5 pitches of

additional technical climbing takes us to a gully that breaks through the black

band of the towers.  More 4th class terrain and scrambling allows us to gain the

glacial ridge towards the summit.

After enjoying the summit views and celebrating our ascent we'll descend via the

scramble route down the southwest ridge to Sentinel Pass and hiking through Larch

Valley to the stunning Moraine Lake.

Expect a 12-15 hour day.

  2) http://www.mountainproject.com/v/east-ridge/106997654

Start a few feet left of the left nose of the buttress, and follow two or three

pitches of steep 5.6 climbing on generally excellent rock to the top of the Big

Step. More moderate scrambling works up the ridge to another low angle section.

Hike easily along the ridge, mindful of loose rock, until the dark gray bands of

the Black Towers are reached. At this point locate a prominent ledge system and

traverse left several hundred feet, eventually wroking up & left to the next

higher ledge system, and traversing another several hundred feet (snow may be

encountered depending on conditions). Continue the west-ward traverse until below

a pair of similar-sized, conical towers.

A gully splits these towers, and another gully goes around the right-most tower

on the right side. Follow this, right-most gully for a couple pitches on

relatively solid limestone at low 5th class to regain the crest of the ridge.

Occasionally the upper half of this gully is filled with snow.

Don the appropriate snow gear and follow the corniced ridge to the summit,

mindful of crevasses and soft cornices.

   3) http://cdnalpine.com/alpine/peak/temple.htm

After a short hike up the base, a few hours of good scrambling on good rock lead

to the legendary Big Step. The Big Step consists of a number of steep rock

climbing pitches (hard 5.7) on good quality quartzite. Above the big step, lower

angle slopes lead to the Black Towers which are climbed in order to reach the

upper glacier. A spectacular ice arete on the upper glacier leads to the summit.

The descent down the SW Slopes is straightforward and scenic.
 
  4) http://www.cirrusalpineguides.com/activity/route/east-ridge-route
The route starts half way along the Moraine Lake Road.

This route is suitable for one or two guests per guide.

Lots of easy climbing on quarzite rock at 5.5 up to the big step.
5.7 climbing for two pitches to get through the big step,
followed by some 4th class face climbing and a superb summit ridge traverse
on ice and snow to get to the peak.

************ Big step등,  상세 개요 입니다.

 
       (Big step ,  200m)
     1 (25m , 5.7)
     2 (50m, 5.7)
     3 (20m, 5.6)
     4 (25m, 5.7 chimney)

       (black tower, 4th )
        5 pitch
 
(Little step - big step 가기전에 있는)
Brad climbing up "The Little Step" which goes up to the highest point in this

pic. Many folks (us included) get the rope out for the last few moves, which are

very steep and committing. There's a fixed pin right at the start of the steep

stuff (2011)

The Big Step is the crux rock climbing of the day. It is a 200m buttress with

only four pitches of technical climbing consistent at about 5.6-5.7 grade.

Big Step:1st Pitch-25m-5.7/ The first pitch runs left of the arete allowing you

to protect in a flake approximately 10m high, then goes straight up another 10m

to an alcove that you can set a #3 Camelot in or save your Camelot and swing out

to the arete to clip a piton. Continue straight up to the top of the pillar to a

flat belay stance with two pins up high and a crack at eye level that takes a #2

Camelot. There are also rap slings (2007) on a chock stone at this location. I

placed one piece of pro and clipped one piton on this pitch.(The first pitch is

short, likely about 25 metres, with a pin and a few pieces of good medium sized

pro.)

Big Step: 2nd Pitch-50m-5.7/ Clip the high piton and move out left several meters

before the ground above gives way to typical 5.6-5.7 climbing. You will find

several pitons and knife blades and tat here and there as the route moves left

and then right and then up to a large ledge.(a longer one at 50 metres and a

little more tricky. By then I was settling down and really enjoyed the climbing.

It carries on left and up, we had 8 extendable draw)

Big Step: 3th Pitch-20m-5.6/ There is not much to this pitch. Just climb the

short wall in front of you, placing a cam or two until you reach the next ledge

which is quite broad. Un-rope or short rope and move left to a loose gully and

proceed at an angle up left until you ascend into a steep dark chimney,

approximately covering 90m in ground.

Big Step:4th Pitch-25m-5.7/ Move right into the chimney and make a 5.7 move up

and over a greasy block (stuck cam-2007). Then move back left and climb easy

ground to the chimney finish which is the crux of the pitch and the site of

another lonely stuck cam (2007). Make an exciting move up and over and build your

belay in a crack at the very lip of the roof so as to not drop rock on the 2nd.

**** 중요 사진 첨부 합니다.

아래 빅스텝 1 피치 입니다.

빅스텝 2 피치.

 빅스텝 4 피치 침니로 가기전 입니다.

                         아래 빅스텝 4 피치 침니가 잘 보입니다.

빅스텝 4 피치 침니 구간

빅스텝 끝나고  블랙 타워로 가는 scramble 길

[Ropemate(Eddie)]

감사함다 !

[Ropemate(Eddie)]

새벽 3시이전에 어프로치 스타트를 하는것이 좋을것 같습니다.

[jkpark]

빠르면 좋지요. 중요 사진 추가 했습니다.

[kjlee]

재교형 감사함니다.

[jkpark]

8. 1 금 금요일 저녁 출발하면... 잠자는것이 좀 애매... 따라서 그냥 토요일 아침 출발하여.. 어떨지 모르겟네요??
8.2 토 아침 출발, 저녁식사 하고 등반 준비후 취침
8.3 일 새벽 start => temple => parking lot
8.4 월 휴식후 근처 암벽
8.5 화 출발 => 밴쿠버

[Ropemate(Eddie)]

저의 의견은 다시말씀드리지만 금요일 밤 출발입니다.
토요일 새벽 출발해서 10 여시간 운전하고 도착해서 이거저거 준비하고 나서 급하게 잠들고
새벽 한두시에 깨서 어둠속에 제대로된 어프로치 찾고 등반하고 해지기 전에 내려오기는 결코 쉽지않습니다.
결국 많은 사람들이 원치않는 비박을 하게되죠.
온사이트로 등반하는 3000 미터 이상의 알파인 암벽입니다. 근교 산하고는 확연히 다르다고 보셔야됩니다.
여유있게 등반을 준비할수 있다면 그것이 최선의 방법입니다.

[jkpark]

알겠습니다.

[jkpark]

그리고... 팀이 2 조 이므로 자일은 각조 1동씩 가져가면 어떨지도 생각해 봅니다. 짐이 가벼우면 암벽도 부담이 덜하고...
만일의 경우... 합치면 2동이 되니까 말입니다.

[Ropemate(Eddie)]

로프는 같이 줄을 묶으실 광재형님과 상의하셔서 준비하세요.
제가 드린 로프 상태 잘 확인하시구요.
저와 매트는 더블로프로 갈 생각입니다.
저희가 루트파인딩을 하면서 갈 예정이니 저희와 상관없이 편한대로 준비하시면 될것 같습니다.
알파인 등반이니만큼 경우의 수를 생각하고 준비하시면 될것 같습니다.

[Ropemate(Eddie)]

박선배님과 광재형은 가벼우셔서 트윈로프로 가셔도 충분하실것 같은데... 이 기회에 장만하시죠?!! ^^;