등반용어 해설, 언어별분류 및 등반등급 총정리

[Ropemate(Eddie)]

수정되어야 할 부분이 있거나 문제가 있는부분은

밴쿠버 클라이머들의 모임 Sea to Sky 로 꼭 알려주시기 바랍니다.    ^^

 http://cafe.daum.net/sea2skyalpine

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A

 

 

Abseiling

Descending by sliding down a rope. Americans usually call this rappelling.
(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendre en rappel, (nl) Afdalen / abseilen, (i) Calarsi, (e) Rapelar / descenso en rappel, (s) fira, (j) 懸垂下降、ラペル

 

Adze

The flat cutting end of the ice axe head.
(j) （ピッケルの）ブレード

 

Aid climbing

Moving up a rock using fixed or placed protecting as a means of progression (and not just for protection). Also known in the US as sixth class climbing.
(d) Technisch klettern, (f) (Escalade) artificielle / Artif, (nl) Artificieel klimmen, (i) Arrampicata artificiale, (e) Escalada artificial, (s) Teknisk klattring / Artificiell klattring, (j) 人工登攀（注："free climbing"と対象）

 

Aider

Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. The word was probably coined by someone who couldn't spell the french word etrier.
(d) Die Leiter, (f) Etrier, (nl) Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e) Estribo, (s) Stegar, (j) あぶみ

 

Aid route

Route that can only be ascended using aid climbing techniques
(d) Die Techno-route, (f) Voie d'artif, (i) Via in artificiale, (e) Ruta artificial, (j) 人工ルート

 

Alcove

A belay ledge that is surrounded by vertical rock on all sides.
(j) テラス

 

Alps

(f) Alpes, (j) アルプス（アルプス山群）

 

Altitude

(f) Altitude, (j) 標高

 

AMS

Acute mountain sickness. (Ask your medical doctor.)
(j) 急性高山病

 

Anchor

Point where the rope is fixed to the rock.
(d) Fixpunkt / Verankerung, (f) Relais / Point d'assurage / Amarrage / Ancrage (de securite), (f-c) Point d'ancrage, (nl) Zekeringspunt, (i) Ancoraggio, (e) Anclaje / Punto de seguro, (s) Ankare / Forankring, (j) アンカー、確保支点

 

Andesite

(f) Andesite, (j) 安山岩

 

Angle piton

(f) Angulaire, (j) アングルピトン

 

Aplite

(f) Aplite, (j) アプライト、細かい花崗岩

 

Arete

A narrow (more or less - but often more less than more - horizontal) ridge. In the US, the word arete is also used to indicate an outside corner.
(d) Grat, (f) Arete, (nl) graat, (i) Cresta, (e) Cresta / Cuchilla, (j) アレート、グラート、カンテ、リッジ　cf. ザイテングラート

 

Ascenders

Devices (e.g. Jumars) to ascend a rope.
(d) Steigklemmen, (f) Jumards / Poignees ascensionnelles, (nl) Stijgklemmen, (i) Maniglie / Ascensori, (e) Ascensores / Jumars, (s) Repklammor, (j) 登高器

 

ATC

'Air Trafic Controller', belaying device made by Black Diamond.

 

Avalanche

Lots of snow or ice sliding down a mountain.
(d) Lawine, (f) Avalanche, (nl) Lawine, (i) Valanga, (e) Avalancha, (s) Lavin, (pl) Lawina, (j) 雪崩

 

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B

 

Bail, to

To give up on a rock climb or a summit attempt because of bad weather coming in.
(f) Marquer le but, (j) 敗退する

 

Base camp

The lowest and largest fixed camp on a major ascent (or multiple ascents in the same area).
(d) Basislager, (f) Camp de base, (nl) Basiskamp, (i) Campo base, (e) Campamento base, (s) Baslager, (pl) Obozowisko, (j) ベース・キャンプ

 

Beer

Liquid consumed in large quantities after climbing.
(d) Bier, (f) Biere / mousse, (f-c) Broue, (nl) Bier / Pintje, (i) Birra, (e) Cerveza, (s) Ol, (pl) Piwo, (j) ビール

 

Belay, to

To secure a climber.
(d) Sichern, (f) Assurer, (nl) Zekeren, (i) Assicurare, (e) Asegurar / Dar seguridad, (s) Sakra, (pl) Ubezpieczac, (j) 確保する

 

Belay station

A safe stance consisting of an anchor, a rope, and a belayer (aka "the belay")
(d) Standplatz, (f) Relais, (nl) Standplaats, (i) Sosta, (e) Punto de encuentro, Reunion, (s) Standplats, (pl) Stanowisko, (j) 確保点

 

Belayer

The person at the belay station securing the climber.
(d) Sicherungsmann / frau, (f) Assureur, (nl) Zekeraar, (i) Assicuratore / trice, (e) Asegurador, (s) Sakringsman, (pl) Asekurant, (j) 確保者

 

"Belay on"

When the belayer is ready to belay the climber up, he yells "Belay on". (At least in the US, "belay on" would only confuse the hell out of a British climber who prefers to hear "Climb when ready").
(d) "Nachkommen", (f) "Quand tu veux", (f-c) "Assure", (nl) "Nakomen", (i) "Puoi venire", (e) "Sube" / "Vienes", (s) "Sakring klar", (j) 「登っていいよ」

 

"Below"

Used in Britain to warn for impending impact with objects coming from above (e.g. falling rock). "Rock" in the US.
(d) "Stein", (f) "Cailloux" ("Pierre" is a common French name and might cause confusion with those individuals that respond to that name), (f-c) "Roche", (i) "Sasso", (e) "Piedra", (s) "Sten", (j) 「落石！」（注：北米ではあまり耳にしない）

 

Bent gate karibiner

Karibiner with the gate bent to accept the rope more easily. Not uncontroversial.
(d) Bananenkarabiner, (f) Mousqueton coude / Mousqueton a doigt coude, (i) Moschettone a barra ricurva, (e) Mosqueton express, (s) Karbin med bojd grind, (j) ベント・ゲート型カラビナ、くの字型カラビナ (d) "Berg Heil !"

A German greeting at the summit.
(j) 「登頂おめでとう！」

 

Bergschrund

Or just 'schrund'. The top crevasse in a glacier or snowfield that is formed when the glacier / snowfield tears away from the remaining patch of snow that is stable on the mountainside.
(f) Rimaye, (j) ベルクシュルント（氷河上部と上部雪田の間に発生したシュルント、クレバス）

 

Beta

Insider information about a climb. Running or auto beta is someone telling you how to do the moves as you go (as in "can you please shut up with that running beta, I want to find out myself").
(d) Informationen vor dem Start, (f) Description de la voie, (i) Informazioni, (j) 岩場のルートのムーブに関する情報

 

Beta flash

Leading a climb with no falling or dogging, but with a piece of previous knowledge hints on how to do those crux moves. Even seeing someone do the climb already classifies as 'previous knowledge'.
(d) Flash mit Ansage, (f) Flash, (j) フラッシング

 

Big wall

Rock climb that is so long and sustained that a normal ascent lasts several days.
(d) Big Wall, (f) Voie longue, (f-c) Grand mur, (e) Gran Pared, (s) Storoagg / Bigwall, (j) ビッグウォール（普通は完登するのに数日かかる）

 

Biner

Short for Karabiner
(d) Kara, (f) Mouskif / Mousquet, (e) Mosquete / Mosqueton, (s) Karbin, (j) ビナ（カラビナの略称）

 

Birdbeak

A tiny hooked piton manufactured by A5. It is similar to the old Chouinard "Crack'n up", except that it only has a single side and that it is intended to be hammered in if necessary.
(j) バードビーク

 

Bivouac

Or short, bivi. An uncomfortable sleeping place in the middle of a route.
(d) Biwak, (f) Bivouac, (nl) Bivak, (i) Bivacco, (e) Bivac, (s) Bivack, (pl) Biwak, (j) ビバーク

 

Black ice

Old ice that was exposed to extremely cold temperatures, scree, and snowfall. Usually found deep in shady couloirs, or on steep north faces. Very hard and dense ice that is difficult to climb.
(f) Glace noire, (j) ブラックアイス（黒っぽく凍った高山の日陰にある氷）

 

Blast, to

To begin a big wall, after the line fixing is done. "We're gonna blast on Tuesday morning after we get the first three pitches fixed".
(j) 素早くどんどん登り始める

 

Bleauser

French term. Going to boulder at 'Bleau (short for Fontainebleau, the site of some excellent bouldering near Paris)
(j) ボルダーをする　cf. Bleausard ボルダラー

 

Blue ice

Very dense ice with a watery hue and few air bubbles.
(f) Glace bleue, (j) ブルーアイス、蒼氷

 

Bolt

(d) Spit, (f) Spit, (i) Spit, (e) Spits / Bolt, (s) Bult, (pl) Spit, (j) （ペツルタイプ）ボルト

 

Bolt, expansion

(d) Bohrhaken, (f) Cheville a expansion, (nl) Boorhaak, (i) Caviglie da espansione, (e) Clavija de expansion / parabolt, (s) Borrbult, (j) エクスパンジョンアンカー、拡張式アンカー（拡張式の埋め込みボルト：ネジ締め式と叩き込み式がある）

※英語ではペツルタイプボルト(Spit)もボルトハーケン(expansion bolt) も同じくboltなので、注意が必要

 

Bomber

Used to indicate that something is exceptionally solid, e.g. an anchor, a hold. See also bombproof.
(e) Firme, (s) Kanon, (j) 頑丈な支点／ホールド

 

Bombproof

The illusion that an anchor is infallible
(d) Bomben sicher, (f) beton (i) A prova di bomba, (e) A prueba de bomba, (s) Bombsaker, (j) 絶対大丈夫に思えるような支点

 

Bong

An almost extinct species of extra wide pitons. Now, large chocks are usually used instead.
(f) Bong, (j) ボン（使用に注意。台形ナッツのように上から下に狭くなるところに入れ、ハンマーでこんこん叩いてセット。本体部分に穴が空いているからそこにスリングを通して下に衝撃がかかるようにする。） (f) "Bonne Grimpe !"

A greeting to climbers when they start the climb. ("Good climbing!")
(e) "Buena suerte!", (j) 「頑張って登って！」

 

Boulder, to

Climbing unroped on boulders or at the foot of climbs to a height where it is still safe to jump off.
(d) Bouldern (f) Faire du bloc, (nl) Boulderen, (i) Arrampicare su masso, (e) Boulder / Cascarear, (j) ボルダリング

 

Bounce

To crater from an extreme height. Usually lethal.
(d) Todessturz, (j) 地面に落ちた体が跳ね返るくらいの衝撃を受けるような墜落をする

 

Bowline

Sailing knot (not to be used for climbing, unless backed up with a second knot)
(d) Bulinknoten / Palstek, (f) Noeud de chaise / Noeud de bouline, (nl) Paalsteek, (i) (Nodo) bulino, (e) Bulin, (s) Palstek, (j) ブーリン結び、もやい結び

 

Brain bucket

Aka helmet. That all important hard shelled thing that covers our (second?) most valuable asset.
(j) ヘルメット

 

Bucket

A large hold (Aka "jug", esp. in UK)
(d) Henkel, (f) Bac / Baquet / A-plat / Poignee de metro / Prise crochetante, (nl) bak, (i) Fibbia / Vasca, (e) Asa / gasa, (s) Brevlada, (j) ガバ、バケツホールド

 

Buildering

To climb buildings
(d) Fassadenklettern, (f) Escalade urbaine, (f-c) Escalade de ville, (nl) Geveltoerisme, (e) Escalada urbana, (s) Fasadklattring, (j) ビルダリング

 

Butterfly knot

Interesting but rarely used climbing knot.
(f) Noeud de milieu d'alpiniste, (f-c) Noeud papillon / les oreilles du Micky ??, (e) Nudo de mariposa, (j) ちょう結び

 

Buttress

The part of the mountain or rock that stands in front of the main mountainface.
(d) Vorbau / Pfeiler, (f) Pilier, (i) Pilastro, (e) Espolon, (s) Pelare, (j) バットレス、独立支稜

 

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C

Cairn

(f) Cairn, (j) ケルン

 

Cam

Generic reference to the family of spring loaded camming devices (SLCD) such as friends, camalots, aliens, TCUs, etc. Also refered to as springs
(f) Came, (e) Levas, (j) カム

 

Campus

A dyno executed using the arms only. Comes from the campus board where the people who do this move get the muscle to do it.
(d) Frei hangend, (j) 飛び付き、ランジ

 

Campus board

A wooden training board with finger ledges that is used for training dynos and finger power.
(d) Hangelbrett, (f) Planche d'entrainement, (e) Tabla de entrenamiento, (j) キャンパス・ボード

 

Cat, dead

Contact Greg Opland for this one...
(d) Tote Katze, (f) Chat mort, (nl) Dode kat, (i) Gatto morte, (lat) Felis oplandis, (s) Dod katt, (pl) Zdechly kot

 

Chalk

Magic powder that makes the hands stick to even the smoothest rock.
(d) Chalk / Magnesia, (f) Magnesie, (nl) Magnesiumpoeder, (i) Magnesia, (e) Magnesio, (s) Krita, (pl) Magnezja, (j) チョーク（酸化マグネシウム）

 

Cheese grater, to

To slide down a slab while scraping the knees, hands, and face.
(f) Glisser dans une dalle en s'ecorchant les genoux, les mains et la face..., (j) （膝、手、顔を擦りながら）スラブを墜落する

 

Chert

(f) Chert, (j) チャート

 

Chest harness

Bra-like looking harness (to be used with waist harness)
(d) Brustklettergurt, (f) Harnais torse / Baudrier torse / Torse, (nl) Borstgordel, (i) Cinghia pettorale, (e) Arnes de pecho, (s) Brostsele, (pl) upzraz piersiowa, (j) チェスト・ハーネス

 

Chickenhead

Sometimes phallic shaped, protruding lumps that make excellent hand or footholds on granite, etc.
(d) Zacke / Felskopfel, (f-c) Banane, (e) Chile / cuerno, (j) 岩角

 

Chimney

A wide crack that accomodates (most of) the body of the climber.
(d) Kamin, (f) Cheminee, (nl) Schoorsteen, (i) Camino, (e) Chimenea, (s) Kamin, (pl) Komin, (j) チムニー

 

Chimney, to

A climbing technique used to conquer chimneys. Usually requires the use of the back and feet, arms, head and other body parts.
(f) Escalade en cheminee, (j) チムニー登りをする

 

Chipped hold

A hold created with a hamer and chisel by a moron uncapable of doing the climb as it is.
(d) Geschlagener Griff, (f) Prise taillee, (i) Presa scavata, (s) Chippade grepp, (j) チップド・ホールド

 

Chock

Generic reference to the family of passive wired protection devices, also called nuts, stoppers, wires, and rocks.
(e) Nueces, (j) チョック、ナッツ、ワイヤ、ロックス

 

Chockstone

A stone wedged between a crack, a chimney, etc.
(f) Bloc coince, (s) Kilsten, (j) チョックストン

 

Chute

A very steep gully. The word chute is french for fall and refers to the rockfall that is very common in a chute.
(j) ガリー、クーロワール

 

Class

A number designating the overal technical level of a route. The first number in the YDS designates the class of the climb.

(e) Clase, (j) 級

 

Class 1 - Easy hiking.

Class 2 - Hiking with some altitude gain and loss.

Class 3 - Boulder hopping, occasionally using the hands.

Class 4 - Climbing, using the hands, but without the need for a belay (Aka Scrambling).

Class 5 - Technical climbing with a belay (Aka free climbing)

Class 6 - Aid climbing

 

Clean

Aid climbing without hammering.
(e) Limpiar, (j) クリーンクライミング

Clean Climbing 의 rating 은 마지막의 첨부 4를 확인해주시기 바랍니다.

 

Clean, to

To remove the pro from a route. Usually done by the follower.
(d) Abbauen / Ausraumen, (f) Depitonner / Escalade propre / Escalade ecologique, (pl) Czyste, (j) リードなどが設置したプロテクションを片づける、リードなどが設置したプロテクションを片づけながら登攀する

 

Cliff

A vertical piece of rock good for climbing (see also Crag).
(d) Fels, (f) Falaise, (nl) Rots, (i) Falesia, (e) Risco, (s) Klippa, (pl) Skala, (j) 岩壁

 

Cliffhanger

Not just a silly film with Wolfgang Gullich and Ron Kauk, but also the name for a small hooking device used to aid climb up small ledges and pockets.
(f) Crochet a gouttes d'eau, (j) クリフハンガー（人工登攀のときフレーク状の岩に引っ掛けて使用する用具） cf. スカイフック

 

Climb, to

(d) Klettern, (f) Grimper / Escalader / Gravir, (nl) Klimmen, (i) Arrampicare / scalare, (e) Escalar, (s) Klattra, (pl) Wspinac sie, (j) 登る

 

Climb, a

(d) Kletterei, (f) Escalade / Grimpe, (nl) Klim, (i) Arrampicata, (e) Escalada, (s) Led / Tur, (j) 登攀

 

"Climbing"

What the climber shouts after the belayer screams "Belay on".
(d) "Komme", (f) "Parti", (nl) "Ik kom", (i) "parto"/"vengo", (e) "Voy", (s) "Jag klattrar", (pl) "Ide" (j) 「登ります」

 

Climbing gym

The second best thing to real rock (Aka "wall" in the UK).
(d) Kletterhalle, (f) Mur d'escalade / Salle d'escalade, (nl) Klimzaal / Klimhal, (i) Palestra, (e) Muro artificial de escalada, (s) Inomhusvagg, (j) 人工壁、室内壁、ロックジム

 

Climbing shoes

Shoes made of sticky rubber that would have fit you comfortable when you were ten.
(d) Kletterschuhe, (f) Chaussons d'escalade, (nl) Klimschoenen, (i) Scarpe da roccia / scarpette / pedule, (e) Botas de escala / tenis de escalada, (e-argentina) pedulas / zapatillas de escalada, (s) Klatterskor, (pl) Pantofle / buty wspinaczkowe, (j) クライミング・シューズ

 

"Climb when ready"

The British equivalent of "Belay on".
(e) "Cuando estes listo", (e-argentina) "veni" (j) 「登っていいよ」

 

Clip, to

The reassuring action of putting the rope through a karabiner (that is attached to a piece of pro).
(d) Einhangen, (f) Mousquetonner, (pl) wpiac sie, (j) クリップする

 

Clove hitch

A useful, easily adjustable climbing knot usually used to tie the rope into a karibiner.
(d) Mastwurf, (f) Noeud de cabestan / Noeud en demi-clef a capeler, (i) Nodo barcaiolo, (e) Cola de cochino, (s) Dubbelt halvslag, (j) インクノット

 

Col

A steep, high mountain pass.
(d) Joch, (f) Col, (j) コル、肩、たわ、たるみ、鞍部

 

Cord

Thin static rope (5, 5.5 or 6 mm)
(d) Reepschnur, (f) Cordelette / Ficelle, (nl) Prusiktouw, (i) Cordino, (e) Cordino / cordeleta, (s) Repsnore, (j) 細引、補助ロープ

 

Corner

Inside corner (see dihedral) or outside corner.
(f) Diedre, (i) Diedro, (e) Esquina, (s) Horn, (j) コーナー、ジェードル、凹角（両側の岩壁が凸角状または凹角状になっている地形）

 

Corn snow

Unconsolidated granular snow that has gone through a short freeze-and-thaw process. This type of snow is preval‎ent throughout the High Sierra in April and May.
(j) 粒雪

 

Couloir

A steep gully which may have snow or ice.
(d) Runse, (f) Couloir, (j) クーロワール、ルンゼ、氷雪回廊（氷や雪の詰まった急峻な谷溝）

 

Counter balance

(f) Jambe en drapeau, (j) カウンターバランス

 

Crack, in rock

A gap or fissure in the rock varying in width from nail to bodywidth.
(d) Riss, (f) Fissure / Fente, (nl) (Rots)-spleet, (i) Fessura, (e) Grieta, (s) Spricka, (pl) Rysa, (j) クラック、リス

 

Crag

Name for a (small) climbing area.
(d) Klettergarten, (f) Falaise, (i) Falesia, (s) Klippa, (pl) Skala, (j) クラッグ（フリークライミングの対象となる岩場、ゲレンデ）、岩壁

 

Crampons

Very pointy footware use to walk glaciers or climb ice.
(d) Steigeisen, (f) Crampons, (nl) Stijgijzers, (i) Ramponi, (e) Crampones, (s) Stegjarn, (j) アイゼン、クランポン

 

Crank, to

To pull on a hold as hard as you can, and then some.
(d) Durchziehen, (j) ホールドを引っ張る

 

Crater, to

To fall and hit the ground, as in "I almost cratered".
(f) Se gaufrer / se vautrer / se planter / devisser, (s) Kratra, (pl) glebowac, (j) 地面に穴を作るくらいの大墜落をする

Crest

The very top of a ridge or arete.
(j) リッジやアレートの最上

 

Crevasse

A crack in the surface of a glacier.
(d) (Gletscher-)spalte / Schrund, (f) Crevasse, (nl) (Gletscher-)spleet, (i) Crepaccio, (e) Grieta, (s) Glaciarspricka, (pl) szczelina, (j) クレバス、シュルント

 

Crimper

A very small hold that accepts only the finger tips.
(d) Kratzer / Pinchi, (f) Arque / Prises en arque, (i) Tacca, (e) Grieta de dedos, (j) 指先がほんのわずかしかかからない小さなハンドホールド、アーケ、クリンプホールド

 

Crimping

(f) Arque, (j) クリンピング、アーケ

 

Crux

The hard bit.
(d) Crux / Schluesselstelle, (f) Le pas / Crux, (nl) Sleutelpassage, (i) Passo chiave, (e) Paso clave, (s) Krux, (j) 核心部

 

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D

 

Daisy chain

A sling sewn (or tied) with numerous loops, used as an adjustable sling in aid climbing.
(j) デイジー・チェーン

 

Deadman

(f) Ancre / Corps mort / Ancre a neige, (j) デッドマン

 

Deadpoint

A dynamic move where the next hold is grabbed at the dead point of the move.
(d) Greifen im toten Punkt, (j) デッドポイント

 

Deck

The usually unfriendly surface that wellcomes you at the end of a grounder.
(j) 甲板

 

Descender

Device used for rappeling.
(d) Abseiler, (f) Descendeur, (i) Discensore, (e) Descensor, (s) Firningsbroms, (j) 下降器

 

Dihedral

Inside corner (Aka "open book").
(d) Verschneidung, (f) Diedre, (nl) Versnijding / hoek, (i) Diedro, (e) Diedro, (s) (Inner-) horn / Dieder, (j) ジェードル、コーナー、凹角

 

Direct route

(f) Directissime, (i) Direttissima, (j) ダイレクトルート、ディレッティシマ

 

"Dirt me"

US slang which means as much as 'Lower me'.
(d) "Ablassen" / "Nach", (j) 「降ろして」

 

Dog (to dog a move)

Climbing, lowering, climbing again till a certain move is made (the usual mode of ascent...).
(d) Ausbouldern, (nl) Jo-jo, (j) ハングドッグ

 

Double fisherman's knot

Solid knot used to tie two ropes or pieces of webbing together (Aka grapevine knot).
(d) Doppelter Spierenstich, (f) Double noeud de pecheur, (nl) Dubbele visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto doppio / nodo doppio inglese, (e) Nudo de pescador doble, (s) Dubbel fiskarknop, (j) ダブルフィッシャーマン結び

 

Double rope

Same as a half rope. Also the technique using two half ropes.
(d) Doppelseil, (f) Corde a double, (i) Corda doppia, (e) Cuerda doble, (s) Dubbelrep, (j) ダブルロープ

 

Downclimbing

Descending the difficult way.
(d) Abklettern, (f) Desescalader, (nl) Afklimmen, (i) disarrampicare / Arrampicare in discesa, (e) Destrepar / Desescalar, (s) Nedetklattring, (j) クライムダウン

 

Dude

Generic name for a climber (in the US).
(j) クライマーの属名

 

Dynamic belay

A belay method in which some rope is allowed to slip during severe falls. A dynamic belay can severely reduce the impact force from a serious fall, but can also severely kill you if not done properly.
(d) Dynamische Sicherung, (f) Assurage dynamique, (i) Sicura dinamica / assicurazione dinamica, (e) Seguro dinamico, (s) Dynamisk sakring, (j) 制動確保、動的確保（登攀者が墜落した時、最大衝撃を抑える為に確保者がロープを制動させながら確保する方法）

 

Dyno / Lunge

Dynamic movement towards a distant hold.
(d) Dynamo, (f) Jete, (nl) Dynamo, (i) Lancio, (e) Movimiento dinamico, (s) Dynamiskt move, (j) 飛び付き、ランジ

 

---

E

 

EB

The first sport climbing shoes
(j) EBシューズ

 

Edge

A sharp edge on a rock face.
(d) Kante, (f) Gratton, (i) Spigolo / lama, (e) Orilla, (s) Kant, (pl) Kant, (j) 足エッジホールド

 

Edging

Foot technique where one uses the edge of the climbing shoe to stand on small footholds. The opposite of smearing.
(d) Kanten, (f) Grattonner, (e) cantear, (j) エッジング（足エッジにのること）

 

Elvis, to

To have a sewing maching leg. Named after "Elvis, the King", who suffered from this this problem when singing before a crowd of screaming women.
(d) Nahmaschine, (e) motoneta, (pl) telegrafowac, (j) ミシンを踏む

 

Epic

The story of a well planned climb that turned into a grueling adventure that turned out well in the end. As these stories are told over and over again - and they always are - the details get stretched to supernatural proportions for dramatic effect.
(d) Eine Geschichte, (f) Epopee, (e) Historia epica, (j) 予期せぬ苦難連続のクライミングまたは登攀（出来事）を含む記録文

 

Etrier

(Pronounce with a french accent). Webbing ladder used for aid climbing. Also known as 'aider'.
(d) Leiter, (f) Etrier, (nl) Ladder, (i) Staffa, (e) Estribo, (s) Stegar, (j) あぶみ

 

---

F

 

Face climbing

Not crack climbing.
(d) Wandklettern / Plattenklettern, (nl) Wandklimmen, (f) Grimper en dalle, (i) Arrampicata su parete / Arrampicata in placca, (e) Escalada exterior, (s) Vaggklattring, (pl) wspinaczka po plycie, (j) フェイス・クライミング

 

Fall, to

A dynamic retreat from a climb (free-solo rappel). Note that it is never the fall that kills, it's the landing.
(d) Stuerzen, (f) Prendre un plomb / Voler / Tomber, (nl) Vallen, (i) Cadere / Volare, (e) Caer / volar, (s) Ramla, Falla, (pl) odpasc, (j) 墜落する

 

"Falling"

Yelled when a climber is (about to) fall.
(d) "Ich sturze", (f) "Sec" (eqv. to 'up rope') / "Assure sec", (nl) "Ik val", (i) "Volo", (e) "Caigo", (j) 「張って」、「落ちる」

 

Fall factor

The length of the fall divided by the amount of rope paid out.
(d) Sturzfaktor, (f) Facteur de chute (Fch), (i) Fattore di caduta, (e) Factor de caida, (s) Fallfaktor, (j) 墜落係数（登攀者が落ちた距離を繰り出した登攀用ロープ（アクティブロープ）の長さで割ったもの。数値は０から最大２の間）

 

FecoFile

A PVC tube used to store solid human waste on big walls. Aka the Shit Tube.
(f) Pot en chlorure de vinyle pour les feces dans le Big Wall, (j) 大便用のポリ塩化ビニル壷（ビッグウォール用）

 

Fifi hook

An open hook used to allow easy clipping during aid climbing. Usually found on aiders, daisy chains, etc.
(d) Fifihaken, (f) Crochet fiffi / Fiffi, (i) Gancio fiffi, (e) Fifi, (s) Fiffikrok, (j) フィフィ

 

Figure 8

Metal rappelling / belaying device shaped like an 8.
(d) Achter / Abseilachter, (f) Descendeur en huit (Huit), (nl) Acht, (i) L'otto (il discensore), (e) Ocho, (s) Atta, (pl) Osemka, (j) エイト環

 

Figure of eight

Very popular and solid tie-in knot.
(d) Achtknoten, (f) Noeud de huit (Huit), (nl) Acht / achtknoop, (i) Nodo a otto / Savoia inseguito, (e) Nudo de ocho, (s) Attaknut, (pl) Osemka, (j) ８の字結び

 

Fingerlock

Masochistic technique to twist and wedge the fingers into a crack.
(d) Fingerklemmtechnik in Rissen, (f) Verrou (de doigt) / Blocage sur coincement de doigts, (nl) Vingerverklemming, (i) Incastro di dita, (e) Encunadura de dedos, (s) Fingerjam, (j) フィンガーロック、フィンガージャム

 

Firn / Spring snow

Old, well consolidated snow. Often a left-over from the previous season. Closer to ice than snow in density, it may require the use of crampons.
(d) Firn, (f) Neige de printemps, (j) 春雪、春のしまり雪

 

Fisherman

Simple knot to tie two ropes together. The double fisherman knot, however, is more popular.
(d) Spierenstich, (f) Noeud de pecheur, (nl) Visserssteek, (i) Nodo a contrasto semplice, (e) Pescador, (s) Fiskarknop, (j) フィッシャーマン結び、テグス結び

 

Flash

To lead a climb with no falls or dogging and with no previous attempts on the climb. Two variations exist: the onsight flash (where the climber has never seen the climb before) and the beta flash (where the climber has studied the climb before or has seen someone do the climb). See there.
(f) Enchaaner en tete, (j) フラッシング

 

Flake

A thin bit of rock that is detached from the main face.
(d) Schuppe, (f) Ecaille, (i) Scaglia, (e) Laja, (s) flak, (pl) Pletwa, (j) フレーク、ウロコ状岩剥離

 

Flank

(d) Flanke, (f) Contrepente, (j) フランケ（岩稜側壁の高難度の岩壁）

 

Flared

A crack or chimney with sides that are not parallel, but instead form two converging planes of rock.
(j) フレアー　cf. フレアー・クラック、フレアー・チムニー

 

Following

Not leading a climb.
(d) Nachsteigen, (f) Grimper en second / Grimper en moulinette, (nl) Naklimmen, (i) Seguire (andare da secondo), (e) Segundear / escalar de segundo, (s) Folja, (j) フォロー、セカンド

 

Foot hold

(f) Appui (de pied), (j) フットホールド

 

Free climbing

Moving up a rock using only hands, feet, and natural holds. Ropes and pro are only used for protection of the climber and not for progression.
(d) Frei klettern, (f) Escalade libre, (nl) Vrijklimmen, (i) Scalata / arrampicata libera, (e) Escalada libre, (s) Friklattring, (j) フリークライミング（注：英語の"free climbing"は日本で呼ばれているフリークライミングとは少し違う。"free climbing"は人工登攀と対象する）

 

Free solo

Free climbing while using no ropes for protection. You fall - you die.
(d) Free solo klettern, (f) Solo integral, (nl) Solo, (i) Arrampicata in solitaria, (e) Escalada solitaria / Superlibre, (s) Frisolo, (j) フリークライミングの無ザイル単独登攀

 

Friend

Trade name for the original camming devices, now also available as Camalots, TCU's, Quads, Aliens, Big Dudes, etc.
(j) フレンズ

---

G

 

Gate

The part of the karibiner that opens.
(d) Schnapper, (f) Doigt, (nl) Snapper, (i) Leva, (e) Pestillo, (e-argentina) leva, (s) Grind, (j) カラビナのゲート

 

Glacier

A slowly moving permanent mass of ice.
(d) Gletscher, (f) Glacier, (nl) Gletscher, (i) Ghiacciaio, (e) Glaciar, (s) Glaciar, (j) 氷河

 

Gorge

(f) Gorge, (j) ゴルジュ、ゴージ、峡谷

 

"Got me?"

A wake up call for the belayer, used to warn her that you are about to some weight on the rope.
(j) 「気をつけて私を見ておいて（落ちるかもしれないので）」

 

Grade

A number denoting the seriousness of a route (not to be confused with the rating of climb, which describes the technical difficulty). In Britain, however, the word grade means both grade and rating.
(d) Ernsthaftigkeitsgrat, (f) Grade, (e) Grado, (j) グレード

사전 마지막의 첨부 1 (Grade) 를 참고하세요.

  Grease, to

Not being able to hold on to a particularly slick hold, due to the presence of sweat, lactic acid or sand. Not uncommon in overused crags
(f) Glisser, (j) ぬめる

 

Grounder

A fall where the kinetic energy is not absorbed by the rope and pro, but rather by mother earth itself. Can hurt badly.
(d) Bodensturz, (j) グランドフォール

 

Grigri

Nifty but somewhat controversial belaying device made by Petzl.
(j) グリグリ

 

Gripped

Paralyzed with fear and utterly confused.
(j) 腰を抜かした

 

Gully

A wide, shallow ravine on a mountainside.
(j) ガリー

 

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H

 

HACE

High Altitude Cerebral Edema. Liquid in the brain as a result of high altitude exposure. Few people live to tell what it is like.
(f) Oedeme d'altitude, (j) 高所脳浮腫

 

Half rope

A rope of 9 or 8.5 mm that has to be used together with a second rope when leading a climb.
(d) Halbseil, (f) Corde de rappel, (nl) Half touw, (i) Mezza corda, (e) Media cuerda, (s) Halvrep, (j) ダブルロープ（注：１本だけのこと）

 

Handjam

Slightly masochistic technique where the hand is wedged into a crack.
(d) Handklemmer, (f) Verrou (de main) / Coincement de main, (nl) Handklem, (i) Incastro di mani, (e) Encunadura de mano / -de palmas, (e-argentina) Empotrar la mano, (j) ハンドジャム

 

Handle

Big banana-shaped hold often found in indoor gyms. Great for waving hello to admiring bystanders. It may sound bizarre, but I've never seen one of those outdoors...
(d) Henkel, (f) Poignee de metro, (nl) Handvat, (j) 取っ手形ホールド

 

Hangdog, to

See Dog.
(j) ハングドッグ

 

HAPE

High Altitude Pulmonary Edema. Liquid in the lungs as a result of high altitude exposure. Pretty serious condition that can quickly lead to HACE if a descent to lower altitudes is not made immediately. See also HACE.
(f) Oedeme d'altitude, (j) 高所肺水腫

 

Harness

Piece of clothing that identifies you as a climber. The coolness factor can be significantly enhanced by hanging things from the harness that go cling.
(d) Klettergurt, (f) Baudrier / Baudard / Baudrier d'encordement / Harnais, (f-c) Baudrier / Cuissard, (nl) Klimgordel, (i) Imbragatura, (e) Arnes, (s) Klattersele, (pl) Uprzaz, (j) ハーネス

 

Haute route

Ski Tour Route in Alps.
(f) Haute route, (j) オートルート、山スキー縦走路

 

Haul bag

Large and robust bag used to haul food, water, climbing gear, sleeping bag, television, satelite dish, and other essential equipment that is required, up a big wall. Also know as "the pig".
(d) Materialsack / Nachziehsack, (f) Sac, (i) Sacco da recupero, (e) Petate / Costal de escalada, (s) Hissack, (j) ホールバッグ

 

Headwall

Where the face of a mountain steepens dramatically.
(j) 絶壁

 

"Help"

The vocal alternative to 6 signals a minute. In far away countries, try S.O.S. -- it doesn't mean anything but is understood by most.
(d) "Hilfe", (f) "Au secours", (nl) "Help", (i) "Aiuto", (e) socorro / ayuda, (s) "Hjalp", (j) 「助けて」

 

Helmet

Solid plastic device that can sometimes protect the head from falling stones or impact (Aka a brainbucket).
(d) Helm, (f) Casque, (nl) Helm, (i) Casco, (e) Casco, (s) Hjalm, (j) ヘルメット

 

Hex

Short for Hexentrix. A type of nut with an excentric hexadiagonal shape. Works for wedging (as a nut) but also for camming.
(f) Excentrique / Coinceur exentrique, (j) ヘキセントリック

 

Hueco

A beautifully shaped pocket with a positive lip named after these increabible features found at the Hueco Tanks bouldering area in Texas.
(j) ウエーコ（すき間、空洞）

 

HMS

Karibiner with one wide side used for belaying with a munter hitch (aka pearabiner). From the German term for munter hitch belay: 'Halbmastwurfsicherung'.
(d) HMS, (f) Mousqueton type de HMS, (i) Moschettone a pera, (s) HMS-knut, (j) HMS型カラビナ

 

Hold

Anything that can be held on to.
(d) Griff, (f) Prise, (nl) Greep, (i) Appiglio / Presa, (e) Presa / agarre, (e-argentina) Toma, (s) Grepp, (pl) Chwyt, (j) ホールド

 

Horn

Spike of rock that can be for a great hold or not so great protection. The same as a chickenhead.
(j) 岩角

 

Hurtin unit

That member of the climbing team that is suffering from severe exposure to alcoholic beverages the night before.
(j) 二日酔い集団（注：米国では耳にしない言葉）

 

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I

 

Ice axe

Device used for ice climbing, glacier crossing, or scaring away burglars.
(d) Eispickel / Eisbeil, (f) Piolet, (nl) IJsbijl, (i) Piccozza, (e) Piolet, (s) Isyxa, (j) ピッケル、アイスアックス

 

Ice screw

A protection device for ice climbing. Looks like a large bolt that can be screwed in hard ice.
(d) Eisschraube, (f) Broche a glace / Piton a glace / Broche, (i) Vite da ghiaccio, (e) Tornillo para hielo, (s) Isskruv, (j) アイススクリュー

 

Icicle

(f) Aiguille de glace / Chandelle de glace, (j) つらら、氷柱

 

Italian hitch

Munter hitch knot or HMS knot
(f) Noeud a friction de Munter / Noeud de demi-cabestan, (j) 半マスト結び

 

---

J

 

Jam, to

Wedging body parts in a crack.
(d) Klemmen, (f) Faire un verrou / Faire un coincement / Coincer / Verrouiller, (i) Incastrarsi, (e) Encunar, (e-argentina) Empotrar, (s) Jamma, (pl) Klinowac, (j) ジャミング

 

Jug

Very large hold (short for jug handle) (Aka "bucket" in the US).
(d) Henkel / Kelle, (f) Poignee de metro / A-plat / Benitier, (nl) bak, (i) Vasca / Fibbia, (e-argentina) Manija, (s) Brevlada, (pl) Klama, (j) ジャグホールド（深いガバ）

 

Jugs

Big wall lingo for Jumars or any other type of ascenders.
(j) ユマール

 

Jug, to

To jumar up a line (big wall lingo).
(j) ユマーリング

 

Jumar

A type of rope ascending device.
(f) Jumar / Poignee de remontee, (j) ユマール

 

Jumar, to

To ascend a rope using ascenders.
(d) Jumaren, (f) Monter au jumar, (e) Jumarear, (s) Jumarera, (j) ユマーリング

 

Junction

(f) Jonction, (j) ジャンクション、山稜合流点

 

---

K

 

Karabiner

Metal connecting device (Aka "biner").
(d) Karabiner, (f) Mousqueton, (nl) Karabiner / mousqueton, (i) Moschettone, (e) Mosqueton / Mosquete, (s) Karbin / Karbinhake, (pl) Karabinek, (j) カラビナ

 

Kernmantle / Core wrapped rope

Modern climbing rope consisting of bundles of continuous nylon filaments (Kern) surrounded by a braided protective sheath (Mantle).
(d) Kernmantelseil, (f) Corde lisse, (j) 編みロープ

 

Knotted cord

Piece of cord with a knot tied into the end that is used for protection (pretty much like a nut). The traditional method of protecting climbs, and still used in the Elbsandsteingebirge in Eastern Germany.
(d) Knotenschlinge, (f) Corde nouee, (i) Cordino annodato, (j) シュリンゲ

 

---

L

 

Layback / Lieback

Somewhat clumsy looking climbing technique where hands and feet work in opposition.
(d) Piazen / Hangeln / Dulfer, (f) Dulfer / Layback, (i) Dulfer (Opposizione), (e) Dulfer, (s) Layback, (j) レイバック

 

Leader

Person who leads a climb.
(d) Vorsteiger, (f) Premier (de cordee) / Grimpeur de tete, (nl) Voorklimmer, (i) Primo, (e) Primero / puntero, (s) Forsteman, (pl) Prowadzacy, (j) トップ

 

Lead, to

To ascend a climb from the bottom up, placing protection (or clipping protection) as you go.
(d) Vorsteigen, (f) Grimper en tete, (nl) Voorklimmen, (i) Andare da capocardata, andare da primo, (e) Puntear / guiar, (s) Leda, (pl) Prowadzic, (j) リードする

 

Ledge

Flat bit on a rock (can be miniature or gigantic).
(d) Leiste (small) / Absatz (large), (f) Reglette / vire ("vire" is somewhere between a microledge and a party ledge) / Vire rocheuse / Saillie, (nl) Rand(je), (i) Cengia, (e) Repisa, (s) Hylla, (pl) Polka, (j) レッジ（岩壁で両足で立てる程度の岩場）

 

Limestone

Type of rock found in abundance in southern France (usually white and full of pockets and holds).
(d) Kalkstein, (f) Calcaire / Craie, (nl) Kalksteen, (i) Calcare, (e) Roca calcarea, (s) Kalksten, (pl) Wapein, (j) 石灰岩

 

Locking biner

Karabiner that can be locked.
(d) Verschlusskarabiner / Schrauber, (f) Mousqueton a vis / Mousqueton a virole / Mousqueton a molette, (nl) Schroefkarabiner, (i) Moschettone a ghiera, (e) Mosqueton de seguro, (s) Laskarbin / Skruvkarbin, (j) 安全環付カラビナ

 

Lock-off

To hold on to the rock with one bent arm while using the other arm to reach up for the next hold or to place or clip protection. Lockoffs on small holds will get you pumped in a hurry.
(d) Blockieren / Fixieren, (f) Bloquer, (nl) Blokkeren, (i) Bloccaggio, (e) Bloquear, (s) Lesa / Binda av, (j) 腕を曲げたハンドホールド支持（とてもパンプしやすい腕の姿勢）

 

Lowering

To descend something or somebody.
(d) Ablassen, (f) Descendre en moullinette, (nl) Zakken / naar beneden laten, (i) Calare, (e) Bajar / descender a alguien, (s) Fira ner, (j) ロワーダウン

 

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M

 

Main ridge

(f) Arete principale, (j) メインリッジ、主稜

 

Manky

Term used to describe a fixed bolt that looks like it was placed before the last ice age. Use these bolts at your own discretion
(d) Rosthaken, (f) Clou pourri / clou rouille, (j) 古いボルト

 

Mantle

Difficult balancing move useful to get up on ledges.
(d) (Durch)-stutzbewegung, (f) Retablissement / Reta, (i) Ristabilimento, (s) Mantla, (j) マントリング

 

Minor ridge

(d) Seitengrat, (f) Arete laterale, (j) マイナーリッジ、ザイテングラート、側稜

 

Mixed climbing

Climbing with a combination of different methods of ascent. e.g mixed free and aid climbing, mixed rock and ice climbing, etc.
(f) Escalade mixte / Progression en terrain mixte, (j) ミックス登攀

 

Moat

The gap between snow and ice on a rock wall. Has posed problems ever since the middle ages.
(f) Roture / Crevasse terminale, (j) 壁際クレバス（岩壁と氷雪渓の間の裂け目。ベルクシュルントは氷河上部と上部雪田とのギャップ）

 

Mountain rescue

The people who put their life on the line when you screw up badly.
(d) Bergrettung, (f) Secours en montagne / Sauvetage en montagne, (i) Soccorso alpino, (e) Rescate de montana, (s) Bergraddning, (j) 山岳救助隊

 

Munge

The dirt and vegetation that can sometimes be found in cracks.
(f) Herbes, (j) 草付

 

Multi pitch climb

Climb that consists of more than a single pitch.
(d) Mehrseillaengentour,(f) Voie de plusieurs longeurs, (nl) Klim van meerdere touwlengtes, (i) Via da piu' tiri, (e) Ruta de varios largos, (s) Tur med flera replangder(?), (pl) Droga kilku wyciagowa, (j) マルチピッチクライミング

 

Munter hitch

Knot used for belaying (Aka italian hitch or friction hitch). The Germans love this knot (see HMS).
(d) Halbmastwurf, (f) Demi-cabestan / Noeud a friction de Munter, (nl) Halve mastworp, (i) Mezzo barcaiolo, (e-argentina) Nudo dinamico, (s) Munterknut, (j) 半マスト結び

 

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N

 

Nailing

An ancient term used to describe direct-aid climbing with pitons.
(j) ネイリング

 

Natural anchor

(f) Amarrage Naturel / Ancrage naturel, (j) ナチュラルアンカー

 

Needle

Rock with a characteristic pointed shape. Also known as pinnacle, aiguille, gendarme, etc.
(d) Nadel / Spitze, (f) Aiguille / Gendarme / Point / Pic, (i) Guglia / Pinnacolo, (e) Aguja, (s) Pinnakel, (j) ニードル、針峰、ピナクル、エギーユ、ジャンダルム、頭、ピーク

 

Neve

Consolidated granular snow formed by repeated freeze-and-thaw cycles. Also used to indicate permanent snowfields.
(f) Neve, (j) 上部雪田（氷河源頭より上部の積雪部）

 

Notch

A small col.
(f) Collet, (j) 小さなコル

 

Nut

Metal wedge used for protection in cracks.
(d) Klemmkeil, (f) Coinceur, (nl) Nut, (i) Dado, (e) Nuez, (s) Kil, (pl) Kosc, (j) ナッツ

 

Nut tool

Piece of metal that can be used to remove stuck nuts or cams
(d) Keilenentferner, (f) Decoinceur / Sardine / Extracteur / Decrocheur / Decroche-friend, (i) Cavadadi, (e) Sacanueces, (s) Kilpetare, (j) ナッツキー（クサビ外し）

 

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O

 

"Off Belay"

Yelled when the climber no longer requires a belay (e.g. because she / he has reached a stance). Once the belayer hears "off belay", he / she removes the rope from the belay device and yells "belay off". In UK, Australia and New Zealand: "Safe".
(d) "Stand" ("Aussicher"), (f) "Relais" or "Vache", (nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla", (e) "Libre", (e-argentina) "autoasegurado", (s) "Lagg av" / "Ta hem", (j) 「ビレイ解除」

 

Off width

A climb too wide to jam, too small to chimney. And then I've heard of people who actually like this kind of climbing.
(d) Schulterriss, (e) Off width, (j) オフウィドゥス

 

"On Belay ???"

Query to verify if the belayer is ready to secure the climber (US only).
(d) "Kann ich kommen?", (f) "Tu me prends ???", (i) "Sei pronto ???", (e) "?Subo?" / "?estas listo?", (s) "Sakring klar ???", (j) 「登っていいかい？」

 

On-sight flash

Leading a climb with no falls and no dogging and without any prior attempts, watching someone do it or beta on how to do the moves.
(f) Enchainer en tete a vue / A vue, (i) A vista, (e) A vista, (j) オンサイト

 

Open book

Same as a dihedral or inside corner. Two panes of rock join in an acute or obtuse corner that faces left or right.
(j) ジェードル、コーナー、凹角

 

Outside corner

Also known as pillar or arete.
(d) Kante, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i) Pilastro, (j) アウトサイド・コーナー、ピラー、アレート、カンテ、リッジ

 

Overhand knot

A simple (but solid) knot in a double rope.
(d) Sackstich, (f) Noeud d'arret, (i) Nodo delle guide, (e) Nudo simple, (s) overhandsknut, (j) 止め結び

 

Overhand loop

The simplest type of knot possible.
(d) Kreuzschlag, (f) Queue de vache / Noeud de boucle / Boucle nouee, (e) Gasa, (j) ひと輪結び（アンカー用のテイルノット）

 

Overhang

Rock (or ice) that is "more than vertical".
(d) Ueberhang, (f) Surplomb(=strong overhang) or devers (=slight overhang) / Deversant, (nl) overhang, (i) Strapiombo, (e) Desplome / Extraplomo, (s) Overhang, (pl) Przewieszenie, (j) オーバーハング

 

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P

 

Palming

(f) Adherence de mains, (j) パーミング

 

Pass

The lowest passage between two mountains. The french - but not just the french - know this as a col. The mathematicians would call this the saddle point.
(d) Pass, (f) Col, (i) Sella / Colle / Passo / Valico, (e) Collado / puerto, (s) Pass, (j) 峠

 

Party ledge

A somewhat larger ledge used to rest (and party !) during a particularly hard or long climb. Sometimes used to refer to the belay station on a multipitch climb.
(f) Terrasse ("vire" is a somewhat narrower ledge) / Vire / Saillie, (i) Terrazza, (nl) Plateau, (e) Repisa, (j) テラス

 

Pendulum

A swing on the rope, either intentional to gain a distant anchor on big wall climbs or unintentional when falling during a traverse with not enough pro in place.
(d) Pendeln / Pendelquergang, (f) Pendule / Traversee a la corde, (i) (Traversata a) pendolo, (e) Pendulo, (s) Pendeltravers / Pendla, (j) 振り子トラバース

 

Pig

The haul bag.
(d) Sau, (j) ホールバッグ

 

Pillar

Outside corner
(d) Pfeiler, (f) Pilier, (nl) Pijler, (i) Pilastro, (e) Pilar, (s) Pelare, (j) ピラー、アウトサイド・コーナー

 

Pink point

To red-point a climb where the pro and runners have been pre-placed.
(d) Rotpunkt mit eingehangte Schlingen (Rotkreuz ???), (f) Point rose, (j) ピンク・ポイント

 

Pitch

A section of climb between two belays and no longer than the length of one rope (this used to mean 45m, nowadays pitches can also be 50 or even 60m long -- check your topo).
(d) Seillaenge, (f) Longueur, (nl) Touwlengte, (i) Tiro, (e) Largo (de cuerda), (s) Replangd, (pl) Wyciag, (j) ピッチ

 

Piton

Metal spike hammered into a crack (has come in disuse for all but some special applications) (Aka "peg" in the UK).
(d) Haken, (f) Piton / Clou, (nl) (Mep)haak, (i) Chiodo, (e) Piton / clavo, (j) ピトン、ハーケン

 

Pocket

A hold formed by a (small) depression in the rock.
(d) Loch / Fingerloch, (nl) Gat / vingergat, (i) Buca da dito, (s) Ficka, (pl) Dziurka, (j) ポケット

 

Portaledge

A hanging tent with built in bed used on big walls (and big trees).
(f) Plateforme de bivouac, (j) ポータレッジ

 

Pro, Protection

Anchors placed during the climb to protect the leader. Beware: even properly placed pro does not prevent pregnancy or the transmission of STDs.
(d) Sicherungsmittel, (f) Protection / Point / Point d'attache, (nl) Zekering, (i) Protezione, (e) Proteccion / anclaje, (s) Sakring, (j) プロテクション、支点

 

Prusik

The sliding knot or the method to ascend a rope (named after its inventer Dr. Karl Prusik).
(d) Prusik, (f) Noeud Prussik, (nl) Prusik, (i) Prusik, (e) Prusik, (s) Prusik, (j) プルージック

 

Pumped

The feeling of overworked muscles. Most climbers are familiar with the forearm pump: too much finger work causes the forearms to swell and the strength to disappear. With a serious forearm pump, even holding a glass of beer can become a serious challenge.
(d) Dicke arme (or any other body part), (f) Avoir les bouteilles / Daube, (nl) Verzuurd, (i) Acciaiato, (s) Pumpad, (j) パンプ

 

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Q

Quickdraw, quick

Short sling with karabiners on either side.
(d) Expressschlinge, (f) Degaine / Couple / Paire, (nl) setje, (i) Rinvio / Preparato / sveltina, (e) cintas express, (s) Expresslinga / Kortslinga, (pl) Expres, (j) ヌンチャク

 

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R

 

Rack

The climbing gear carried during an ascent.
(d) Materialsortiment, (f) Materiel / matos, (i) Equipaggiomento / Assortimento di materiale, (e) Bandolera / bandola, (s) Racka / Utrustning, (pl) Spej, (j) ギアラック

 

Rad

Not trad. Slang for sport climbing.
(j) スポーツクライミング（注：日本ではフリークライミングと呼ばれている）

 

Rally, to

To climb exceptionally well, especially on normally difficult climbs.
(j) 難しいピッチに精力を集中する

 

Ramp

An ascending ledge
(f) Rampe, (j) 傾斜路、ランペ

 

Rappel, to

Also: to rap. Descending by sliding down a rope. Known in Britain (and Germany) as abseiling.
(d) Abseilen, (f) Descendre en rappel, (nl) Afdalen / abseilen (i) Calare (in corda doppia), (e) Rapelear, (s) Fira, (j) 懸垂下降する、ラペルする

 

Rating

A number denoting the technical difficulty of the climb.

(d) Schwierigkeitsgrat, (f) Cotation, (e) Escala de dificultad, (j) グレード

자세한 사항은 이 사전 마지막부분의 첨부 2 (Rating and Grade)를 확인하세요.

 

Redpoint

To lead a climb without falling or dogging after a number of attempts. This is different from onsight, where the climb is lead without falling or dogging on its first attempt.
(d) Rotpunkt, (f) Cercle rouge / Point rouge, (i) Punto rosso, (pl) RP, (j) レッドポイント

 

Resin

An alternative to chalk. Resin (or "pine tree resin" to use its full name) is made from the yucky stuff that sticks to your hands when you touch a pine tree. Because resin is mostly colorless, it is preferred to chalk in some areas. But caution: Don't let the color fool you. Resin can do permanent damage to the rock and in fact is not allowed anywhere in the US for that reason. reason in the US.
(d) Pof, (f) Pof, (i) Resina, (e) Resina, (s) Harts, (j) 松やに

 

Rib

A slender buttress. Something between a buttress and an outside corner.
(f) Arete, (j) リブ

 

Ridge

The high divide extending out from a peak.
(j) リッジ、カンテ、アレート、尾根

 

Ring

A large (2 inch diameter) ring that is cemented in the rock as a bolt. Rings are very common in Germany and France and are excellent for rappelling and hanging belays.
(d) Ring, (f) Scellement, (nl) Ring, (i) Anello da calata, (s) Ringbult, (pl) Ring, (j) ケミカルアンカー

 

"Rock"

Scream let out to warn people down below that a piece of rock has been overcome by gravity. The loudness, number of repitions, and / or panic in voice with which this word is uttered is often an indication of the seriousness of the rock. In the UK, you're more likely to hear "Below", beware!
(d) "Stein", (f) "Pierre" / "Cailloux", (i) "Sasso", (e) "Piedra", (s) "Sten", (j) 「ラク」

 

Roof

Seriously overhanging part in a climb (more or less horizontal).
(d) Dach, (f) Toit / Plafond, (nl) Dak, (i) Tetto, (e) Techo, (s) tak, (pl) Dach, (j) ルーフ（水平ハング）

 

Rope

Long and round nylon fabrication. Climbing ropes are generally between 10 and 11 mm in diameter (with the exception of "half ropes" which are between 8.5 and 9mm in diameter).
(d) Seil, (f) Corde, (nl) Touw, (i) Corda, (e) Cuerda, (s) Rep, (j) ロープ、ザイル

 

"Rope"

Should be yelled when a rope is about to be thrown to the base of the crag (though most of the time it seems like "rope" is shouted about 1-2 seconds after the rope is thrown). In the UK, shout "Rope below".
(d) "Seil", (f) "Corde", (nl) "Touw", (i) "Corda", (e) "Cuerda", (e-argentina) "va cuerda", (s) "Rep", (pl) "Uwaga lina", (j) 「ロープ落とします」

 

Route

A certain path up a rock or mountain.
(d) Tour, (f) Voie, (nl) Route, (i) Via, (e) Ruta, (s) Led, (pl) Droga, (j) ルート

 

Runner

A loop of tape or webbing either sewn or tied (Aka sling).
(d) Schlinge, (f) Sangle, (i) Anello, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga, (pl) Talma ?, (j) シュリンゲ

 

Runner

A runner threaded or looped around chockstones, flakes, horns or chickenheads for protection.
(d) Zackenschlinge, (j) ランニング・ビレイ、中間確保支点

 

Runout

Distance between two elements of pro. A route is "runout" when the distance between those two elements of pro becomes uncomfortably long.
(d) Abstand zwischen 2 Sicherungspunkten, (f) (Une voie est) Engagee, (i) Via protetta lunga, (e) Ruta poco protegida, (j) ランアウト

 

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S

 

Saddle

A high pass that looks somewhat like the horsewear. Not quite as steep as a col.
(f) Selle, (j) サドル、ザッテル、鞍部

 

"Safe"

The British equivalent of "Off Belay".
(d) "Stand", (f) "Relais" / "Vache", (nl) "Stand", (i) "Posto" / "Molla", (e) "Libre", (s) "Lagg av", (j) 「ビレイ解除」（注：米国では使われていない）

 

Scrambling

Easy climbing, usually unroped.
(d) Kraxeln, (f) Randonner, (e) Trepar, (s) Latt Klattring, (j) 確保なしでできるやさしい登攀、２級ルート登攀

 

Screamer

A very, very long fall.
(f) Mega-plomb, (i) Mina / Randa, (j) 大墜落

 

Screamer

Special piece of equipment meant to reduce the impact of a screamer (the fall) on the belay system.
(i) Dissipatore, (j) 墜落のショックを吸収するようにできたシュリンゲ（人工登攀やアイスクライミングで用いる）

 

Scree

Loose rocks and stones that cover the slope below a cliff. With every step, scree slides under your feet.
(f) Gallet / Ecaille / Pieraille / Rocaille / Eboulis, (j) ガレ　cf. ザレ

 

Seal

(f) Antiderapant / Peaux / Peaux de phoque / Peluches / Peaux anti-recul, (j) シール（滑り止め）

 

Second

The climber who follows the leader. See also following.
(d) Nachsteiger, (f) Second de cordee, (i) Secondo, (e) Segundo, (j) フォロー、セカンド

 

Send, to

To climb a route with ease. "I'm gonna send this route, dude!"
(j) 容易に登る

 

Sewing-machine leg or arm

A leg (or arm) under tension that suddenly starts jerking up and down like a sewing machine. Stretch the muscle, take a deep breath, and don't think of falling... (see also: to Elvis).
(d) Nahmaschine, (s) Symaskin, (pl) Telegraf, (j) 震えた足

 

Sharp end

The end of the rope to which the leader is attached.
(f) Brin de la tete, (j) トップが結んでいるロープの末端

 

SH** !

Often heard during a fall... (Well educated climbers in the UK sometimes say "sugar" - but only if they're not in too much trouble).
(d) Scheisse !, (f) Merde!, (f-c) "Chite!", (nl) Shit!, (i) "Merda!", (e) Mierda!, (s) Djavlar!, (pl) Cholera / Kurcze / Kurde, (j) くそったれ！

 

Short roping

Technique where both climbers are tied close together into the middle of the rope. The rest of the rope is then carried over the shoulders in a coil. Frequently used for simul-climbing. The term (and technique?) is used frequently in the Canadian Rockies.
(f) Encordement en N, (j) Ｎ型アンザイレン（同時登攀時に不要なロープを肩に巻くこと）

 

Short roping

Belaying technique where the belayer keeps the leader under tension in an attempt reduce the length of a fall. Tony Bubb will gladly give you an expose on the dangers of this technique.

 

Side pull

A hand hold that needs to be held with a horizontal (sideways) pull.
(d) Piaz-Griff / Seitgriff, (f) Prise verticale, (i) Maniglia rovescia, (s) Sidotag / Sidogrepp, (pl) Odciag, (j) 垂直ホールド、サイドプル

 

Sierra wave

A lenticular cloud (quite rare in the Alps).
(j) シェラネバダ山脈に起きるレンズ雲

 

Sky hook

(f) Crochet, (j) スカイフック

 

Slab

Flat and seemingly featureless, not quite vertical piece of rock.
(d) Platte, (f) Dalle, (nl) Plaat, (i) Lastra / Lastrone / Placca, (e) Laja, (s) Sva / Platta, (pl) pologa plyta, (j) スラブ

 

"Slack"

Yelled when the climber needs more rope (e.g. to clip into protection).
(d) "Seil", (f) "Mou", (nl) "Touw", (i) "Corda" ("Lasco"), (e) "Cuerda", (s) "Slacka", (pl) "Luz", (j) 「ロープ出して」

 

Slingshot

A toprope setup where the belayer belays on the ground (where the climber starts climbing) and the rope is pre-clipped through the anchor at the top of the climb.
(f) Moulinette, (j) トップロープ

 

Sloper

Pathetic downward slanting hold. (Usually look like buckets from below.)
(d) (Abschussiger) Aufleger, (f) Prise fuyante, (i) Appiglio spiovente, (j) 外傾ホールド

 

Smearing

Foot technique where a big part of the climbing shoe is used to generate as much friction as possible. The opposite of edging.
(d) Auf reibung stehen, (f) Adherence de pieds, (i) Aderenza, (e) Friccion, (s) Smeara, (j) スメアリング

 

Soloing

Climbing alone, though not necessarily without the protection of a rope (see also free solo).
(d) Solo klettern, (f) Soloer, (e) Escalar en solitario, (j) 単独登攀

 

Sport climbing

Climbing routes of (extreme ?) gymnastic difficulty while protection oneself by clipping copiously numbered and generously spaced preplaced free protection.
(d) Sportklettern, (f) Escalade sportive, (nl) Sportklimmen, (i) Arrempicata sportiva, (e) Escalada deportiva, (s) Sportklattring, (pl) Wspinaczka sportowa, (j) スポーツクライミング（注：日本ではフリークライミングと呼ばれている）

 

Stem, to

Bridging with the feet between two holds.
(d) Stemmen, (f) Se mettre en opposition, (i) Opposizione, (e) Oposicion, (s) Stamma / Sprajsa, (j) ステミング

 

"Stick it"

American slang meaning "hold on" or "go for it".
(f) "Allez !", (e) "Asegura", (j) 「ガンバ」、「ガンバレ」

 

Sticht plate

A belay device consisting of a plate with two slots in it. An original creation by Franz Sticht.
(d) Sticht Bremse, (f) Plaquette d'assurage / Plaquette descendeur / Plaquette-frein, (f-c) Plaque-frein, (i) Piastrina sticht, (e) Placa Sticht, (s) Stichtbroms, (j) シュテヒト環

 

Summit

The top of a mountain or rock.
(d) Gipfel, (f) Sommet, (nl) Top, (i) Cima, (e) Cima / cumbre, (s) Topp, (pl) Szczyt, (j) 山頂

 

Summit, to

To reach the summit.
(d) Gipfeln, (e) Encumbrar, (j) 山頂にたどり着く

 

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T

 

"Take"

American monosyllable for "Up Rope".
(d) "Seil ein" / "Zu", (e) "Recupera", (pl) "Wybierz", (j) 「張って」

 

"Take in"

The British equivalent of "Up Rope".
(d) "Seil ein"/("Zieh an"), (f) "Avale" / "Avalez du mou", (i) Recupera, (s) "Tag hem", (pl) "Wybierz", (j) 「張って」

 

"Taking in"

Heard often in British crags, meaning the climber is "off belay" and about to pull up the slack between him and the belayer.
(f) "J'avale", (j) 「ビレイ解除」

 

Talus

Large blocks of rock. A coarse variation of scree.
(f) Gallet / Ecaille / Pieraille / Rocaille / Eboulis, (j) ガレ　cf. ザレ

 

Tarn

A small lake.
(f) Etang, (j) 池

 

10essentials

That part of your climbing gear you don't want to leave at home.
(j) 必須クライミングギア

 

"That's me"

Part of the climbing dialogue. Courtousy call to the belayer to indicate that the slack in the rope is all taken up and that further pulling is pointless.
(d) "Seil aus", (f) "En bout"/"Bout de corde", (j) 「いっぱい」

 

"Tight"

The British equivalent of "Up rope" ???
(f) "Sec", (f-c) "a sec", (e) "Tensa", (j) 「張って」

 

Toe

The bottom of a buttress.
(f) Socle, (j) バットレスの基部

 

Topo

A short drawing of the route. Good topos will allow you to spot the line right away, show the placement of bolts and belay stances, indicate where the crux is and what rating it has.
(f) Topo, (e) Topo, (j) トポ、ルート図（登攀ルートガイド）

 

Top-rope

Free climbing a route that has the safety rope attached to the top of the climb (usually one walks to the top to set up the top-rope belay).
(d) Toprope / Seil von oben, (f) Moulinette, (nl) Toprope, (i) Corda dall'alto, (e) Yoyo, (s) Topprep, (pl) Wedka, (j) トップロープ

 

Threaded overhand

Solid but not failproof knot also known as water knot (or ring bend when used on webbing).
(d) Sackstich in Ringform, (e) Nudo encontrado, (j) テープ結び

 

Trad

Traditional climbing, characterized by the placing of protection (cams, nuts, etc.) in cracks and pockets. Trad also includes multi-pitch routes often with long runouts..
(d) Traditionelles, Alpines Klettern, (f) Classique, (nl) Alpijns klimmen, (i) Tradizionale, (e) Escalada tradicional / clasica, (j) アルパインクライミング（プロテクションを設置しながら登るオーソドックスなロッククライミングで、"free climbing"も含む。スポーツクライミングまたは"Rad"と対象する）

 

Trad fall

A fall during a trad climb, sometimes accompanied by the popping sound of protection succumbing to the temptations of gravity. See also 'crater' and 'screamer'.
(f) Devissage, (j) 墜落

 

Traverse

Horizontal climb.
(d) Quergang, (f) Traversee, (nl) Traverse, (i) Traverso, (e) Travesia, (s) Travers, (pl) Trawers, (j) トラバース、へつり

 

Trucker

Synomym for 'Bomber'. A trustworthy piece of pro.
(j) 頑丈な支点／ホールド

 

Tunnel

A tunnel through or hourglass shape in the rock that allows a runner or cord to be fed through for protection.
(d) Sanduhr, (f) Lunule / Sablier, (i) Clessidra, (nl) Zandloper, (e) Tunel, (j) 三日月穴、砂時計穴（石灰岩面の貫通した穴。スリングを通して支点に利用）

 

---

U

 

Undercling

A hold that would be a perfect bucket if gravity were upside down. As it is, underclings are usually awkward holds that require lieback type moves.
(d) Untergriff, (f) Inversee / Aile de poulet, (nl) Ondergreep, (i) Presa rovescia, (e) Undercling, (e-argentina) Toma invertida, (pl) podchwyt, (j) アンダー・クリング

 

"Up Rope"

Yelled by the leader or the follower when she / he wants a tighter belay. (In UK: "Take in" or "Tight" or even "Watch me").
(d) "Seil ein", (f) "Sec" / "Avale", (nl) "Blok", (i) "Recupera", (e) "Tensa", (s) "Tag hem", (j) 「張って」

 

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V

Verglas

Thin water ice on rock.
(f) Verglas, (j) ベルグラ

 

---

W

 

Warm up area

(f) Aire de preparation, (j) ウォームアップエリア

 

"Watch me"

Call to indicate the climber is about to do something stupid -- like fall.
(d) "Pass auf", (f) "Fais gaffe", (nl) "Let op", (i) "Occhio" / "Guardami bene" / "Tiemmi tirato", (e) "Cuidame", (s) "Beredd?", (j) 「気をつけろ」

 

Water ice

Ice formed directly from frozen water. Water ice is clear and brittle and contains few air bubbles. Sometimes water is even flowing around the ice. Can be found in the couloirs of the High Sierra in autumn (and in many other places).
(f) Glace d'eau, (j) 水氷

 

Water knot

See tape knot.
(d) Bandschlingenknoten, (f) Noeud americain / Noued de sangle / Noeud de raccordement, (e) Nudo encontrado, (s) Vattenknop, (j) テープ結び

 

Webbing (tubular)

Flat and strong strip of nylon, that is hollow in the inside.
(d) Schlauchband, (f) Sangle (tubulaire), (nl) Schlinges, (i) Fetuccia tubolare, (e) Cinta tubular, (s) Tubband, (j) 中空テープシュリンゲ

 

Webbing (loop of)

A runner made of webbing.
(d) Bandschlinge, (f) Sangle (anneau de), (i) Anello di cordin / Anello di fettucia, (e) Anilla, (s) Slinga, (j) テープシュリンゲ

 

Whipper

A very long fall.
(j) 大墜落

 

White ice

Ice with lots of air bubbles that forms from melted-and-frozen snow. Good climbing stuff.
(f) Glace poreuse / Glace bulbeuse, (j) 白濁氷

 

Wind breaker

(d) Jacke, (f) Anorak, (j) ウィンドブレーカー、ヤッケ、アノラック

 

Woodie

A homemade climbing wall.
(f) Pan, (j) 自家製人工壁

 

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Y

Yabo

As in 'yabo start'. A 'sit start' ???????? (I need some help on this one)

 

YDS

Yosemite Decimal System. The North-American raiting system

자세한 부분은 마지막부분의 첨부 2 를 확인하세요.

 

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Z

Zipper

A fall where the protection pulls out one after the other as the leader succumbs to gravity. Often ends with a grounder (or a cardiac arrest).
(d) Reissverschlusssturz, (j) プロテクションが外れる墜落

 

Z-Pulley System

Complicated rope setup that allows you to hoist heavy weights with relatively little force. Excellent for recueing or hauling bags.
(d) Flaschenzug, (f) Mouflage simple, (j) 滑車2個を使用して、1/3の力で引き上げるクレバスの救助方法（注：滑車がなくてもカラビナ2個でもできる）

 

첨부 1 : Grade --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The grade of a climb is a subjective indication its severity, at least in the US. In the UK, the word grade is also used to indicate the technical difficulty of the climb, what is called rating in the US. Some grading systems measure the average length of a climb, others consider the general safety of the climb, etc. Below are some of the more popular grading systems. These generally cover both free and aid climbing, but not ice climbing.

The North American Grading System

In North America, grades denote the normal amount of time required to complete a route. This time is based on a team of average climbers using normal techniques.

Class I   - Requires 1-2 hours
Class II  - Requires half a day
Class III - Requires most of a day
Class IV  - Requires a very long day
Class V   - Requires an overnight stay on the route
Class VI  - Requires a few days
Class VII - Expedition

The Alpine Grading System

Routes in the Western Alps are generally given an overall grade - in addition to a pitch-by-pitch rating. The overall grade says something about the general difficulty of the climb. It takes into account the technical difficulty, the quality of the belays, the nature of the rock, the exposure of the climb, the objective dangers, etc. The grading system uses letters (derived from the french words - in parenthesis) and sometimes uses "+" and "-" to indicate smaller differences.

F   - Easy. (Facile)
PD  - Moderately difficult. (Peu Difficile)
AD  - Fairly difficult. (Assez Difficile)
D   - Difficult. (Difficile)
TD  - Very difficult. (Très Difficile)
ED  - Extremely difficult. (Extrêmement Difficile)
ABO - Horrible. (Abominable)

The German Grading System

The German grading system considers the seriousness or Ernsthaftigkeitsgrad of a climb. This grading scale considers all aspects of the climb which have nothing to do with the technical difficulty: average runout distance, quality of the protection placements, objective dangers, quality of the rock, etc. The scale goes from E0 to E5. E0 is a normal route, with solid fixed pro and ample opportunities for placing pro. E5, at the other end of the scale, stands for a largely unprotected and unprotectable route with manky pitons and crummy rock. On an E5 climb, falling is generally a lethal idea. In most topos, routes with an Ernsthaftigkeitsgrad

첨부 2 : Rating and Grade -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The rating of a climb is a subjective indication of the technical difficulty of the route or pitch to which it applies. All rating systems (apart from the British system) use the difficulty of the crux (the most difficult move or series of moves) to determine the rating, at least in principle. Often though, the rating is upped a bit if a climb is sustained (i.e. has a very long series of very difficult moves).

Generally, the climber who makes the first ascent determines, or at least suggests, the rating. Of course, adjustments after a few ascents have been made are not uncommon.

Apart from free climbing ratings, there are a number of other systems in use to qualify climbs:

• The grade of a climb says something about the seriousness of the ascent.
• And aid climbing rating scale (첨부 3) is used for climbs with etriers and daisy chains.
• An ice rating is what you need when you're wearing an ice axe and crampons. (Page under preparation...)

The following table has a basic comparison chart for (some of) the different free climbing rating systems that are in use around the world.

 UIAA |  YDS  |French|Aussie|   UK    | Saxon |Czech | Nor | Swe |
------------------------------------------------------------------
  1   |  5.2  |  1   |  10  |  easy   | I     |      |     |     |
------|-------|------|------|---------|-------|      |     |     |
  2   |  5.3  |  2   |  11  |   m     | II    |      |     |     |
------|-------|------|------|---------|-------|      |     |     |
  3   |  5.4  |  3   |  12  |   d     | III   |      |     |     |
------|-------|------|      |---------|-------|      |     |     |
  4   |  5.5  |  4   |------|   hvd   | IV    |      |     |     |
------|-------|      |  13  |---------|-------|      |     |     |
  5-  |  5.6  |------|      |   ms    | V     |      |     |     |
------|-------|  5   |------|---------|-------|      |-----|-----|
  5   |  5.7  |      |  14  | 4a : s  | VI    |      |  5- |  5- |
------|       |------|------|----:    |-------|      |-----|-----|
  5+  |-------|  5+  |  15  | 4b :vs  | VIIa  |------|  5  |  5  |
------|  5.8  |      |------|----:    |       |   6  |-----|-----|
  6-  |       |      |  16  | 4c :hvs |-------|------|  5+ |  5+ |
      |-------|      |------|----:    | VIIb  |   7  |     |     |
------|  5.9  |------|  17  | 5a :    |       |      |-----|-----|
  6   |       |  6a  |------|    :    |-------|------|  6- |  6- |
------|-------|      |  18  |----:    | VIIc  |  7a  |     |     |
  6+  | 5.10a |      |------| 5b : e1 |       |      |-----|-----|
      |-------|      |  19  |    :    |-------|------|  6  |  6  |
------| 5.10b |  6a+ |------|----:    | VIIIa |  7b  |     |     |
  7-  |-------|------|  20  | 5c :    |       |      |-----|-----|
      | 5.10c |  6b  |      |    :    |       |      |     |     |
------|-------|      |------|    :    |-------|------|  6+ |  6+ |
  7   | 5.10d |      |  21  |    : e2 | VIIIb |  7c  |     |     |
      |-------|  6b+ |      |    :    |       |      |-----|     |
------| 5.11a |------|------|    :    |-------|------|  7- |     |
  7+  |       |  6c  |  22  |----:    | VIIIc |      |     |-----|
      |-------|      |------| 6a :    |       |      |     |  7- |
------| 5.11b |      |  23  |    : e3 |-------|      |     |     |
  8-  |-------|  6c+ |------|    :    | IXa   |      |-----|     |
      | 5.11c |------|  24  |    :    |       |      |  7  |     |
------|-------|  7a  |------|    :    |-------|      |     |-----|
  8   | 5.11d |      |  25  |----: e4 | IXb   |      |-----|  7  |
      |-------|      |      | 6b :    |       |      |  7+ |     |
------| 5.12a |      |------|    :    |-------|      |     |-----|
  8+  |-------|  7a+ |  26  |    :    | IXc   |      |-----|  7+ |
      | 5.12b |------|      |    :    |       |      |  8- |     |
------|-------|  7b  |      |    :    |-------|      |     |     |
  9-  | 5.12c |      |------|    : e5 | Xa    |      |-----|-----|
      |       |  7b+ |  27  |----:    |       |      |  8  |  8- |
------|-------|------|      | 6c :    |-------|      |     |     |
  9   | 5.12d |  7c  |------|    :    | Xb    |      |     |-----|
      |-------|      |  28  |    :    |       |      |     |  8  |
------| 5.13a |      |------|    : e6 |-------|      |-----|     |
  9+  |-------|  7c+ |  29  |----:    | Xc    |      |  8+ |     |
      | 5.13b |------|------| 7a :    |       |      |     |     |
------|       |  8a  |  30  |    :    |-------|      |-----|-----|
 10-  |-------|      |------|    :    |       |      |  9- |  8+ |
      | 5.13c |  8a+ |  31  |    :    |-------|      |     |     |
------|-------|------|------|    : e7 | Xc    |      |     |-----|
 10   | 5.13d |  8b  |  32  |    :    |       |      |-----|  9- |
      |-------|      |------|----:    |       |      |  9  |     |
------| 5.14a |      |  33  | 7b :    |       |      |     |-----|
 10+  |       |  8b+ |      |    :    |       |      |     |  9  |
      |-------|------|      |    : e8 |       |      |-----|     |
------| 5.14b |  8c  |      |    :    |       |      |  9+ |     |
 11-  |-------|      |      |    :    |       |      |     |-----|
      | 5.14c |      |      |    :    |       |      |-----|  9+ |
------|-------|  8c+ |      |    : e9 |       |      |     |     |
 11   | 5.14d |------|      |    :    |       |      |     |-----|
      |-------|  9a  |      |    :    |       |      |     |     |
      |       |      |      |    : e10|       |      |     |     |

UIAA rating system

The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) rating scale, an ill-fated attempt at international standardazation, is used mostly in Western Germany and Austria.

YDS (Yosemite Decimal System - North America)

The Yosemite Decimal System is the North American rating system. The first number in the YDS designates the class of the climb (always "5" for free climbs), the second number defines the difficulty.

Although the YDS is the most popular rating system in North America, other systems exist (you may have that old guidebook that still lists them). Some may have the NCCS scale (see below), others may have an old YDS that stops at "5.10" no matter how hard that climb is (my old Carderock guidebook had one of those and the "5.10" in there was corrected to a "5.12" when the new guide came out).

NCCS | F7  | F8  | F9  | F10 | F11 | F12 | F13 | F14 | F15 | F16 |
-----|------------------------------------------------------------
YDS  | 5.7 | 5.8 | 5.9 |5.10b|5.10d|5.11b|5.11d|5.12b|5.12d|5.13a|

The French rating system

The French rating system is slowly becoming the international standard, at least for comparing really hard climbs. It's used in France (what a surprise), but also in Spain and Italy. Note that "+" but not "-" is used for further subdivisions.

Aussie - The Australian Rating System

Only the Australians - and the South Africans who also use this rating scale - can claim they climb a "10" with one hand tied behind their backs...

The British grading system

The British rating system - had you expected anything else - is a bit more difficult and a little less comprehensible than the rating systems used in the rest of the world. The Brits have two different ratings (they say grades): an adjectival grading and a technical grading. The adjectival grading says something about the overall difficulty of the climb. The technical grading says something about the most difficult move of the climb. So, an easy climb with a difficult move would have a relatively low adjectival grading with a high technical rating (like E4/6c). A sustained climb with long runouts and poor pro - a real British climb - but no real difficult technical moves then has a high adjectival rating with a low technical rating (like E7/6b). If you also know that a "difficult" climb is easy, that there are no technical ratings for climbs less than severe (eqv. UIAA 5) and that the adjective Extreme was split up into E1-E9, you're all set. The table below should clarify it all...

|-----------------|
|EASY             |
|-----------------|
|MODERATE         |
|-----------------|
|DIFFICULT        |
|-----------------|
|VERY DIFFICULT   |
|-----------------|
|4a |      |      |
|---|SEVERE|      |------|
|4b |      | HARD |      |
|---|------|SEVERE| VERY |------|
|4c |      |      |SEVERE| HARD |
|---|      |------|      | VERY |----|
|5a |             |      |SEVERE|    |
|---|             |------|      |    |----|
|5b |                    |------| E1 |    |
|---|                           |    |    |----|----|
|5c |                           |    | E2 |    |    |
|---|                           |----|    |    |    |----|
|6a |                                |    | E3 |    |    |
|---|                                |----|    | E4 |    |----|
|6b |                                     |    |    | E5 |    |
|---|                                     |----|    |    |    |
|6c |                                          |    |    | E6 |
|---|                                          |----|----| to |
|7a |                                                    | E9 |
|---|                                                    |    |
|7b |                                                    |    |
|---|                                                    |----|

Saxon - The Old East German Rating System

The Saxon Rating System, or the East German (GDR) rating system as it was known before the Wall came down, is used in all of the former East Germany. This includes the formidable climbing area of the Elbsandsteingebirge in the state of Saxony.

The Saxon rating system, however, is not complete without the rating scale for Jumps. For those of you not familiar with the Elbsandsteingebirge, some routes require horizontal dynos. Most often, that means standing on one sandstone tower and lunging for a hold on an adjacent tower - bridging the void between them. Those jumps are rated using arabic numerals between 1 and 4, where 1 is easy and 4 is a very difficult jump. Personally, I almost wet my pants on a "1". I don't ever want to find out what a "4" is like...

The Czech, Norwegian and Swedish rating systems

All similar to the UIAA rating scale, but with local differences.

The South African Rating System

Someone faxed me a list with an old and a new South African Rating Scale. The new one looked suspiciously similar to the Australian one. The old one, however was quite different. Here it is:

New RSA |13 |14| 15|16|17| 18|19|20| 21|22|23| 24|25|26| 27|28|29| 30|31|32|33|
--------|----------------------------------------------------------------------
Old RSA | E | F1 | F2 | F3 | G1 | G2 | G3 | H1 | H2 | H3 | I1 | I2 | I3 |  J  |

첨부 3 : Aid Climbing rating scale ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The good news about aid climbing rating scales is that the whole world uses a single scale that 

goes from A1 to A5. The bad news is that there are many interpretations of that scale. It will 

all depend on where and when that first ascent was made. 

For most purposes, the following - general - aid rating scale will do: 

• A1: All placements are rock solid and easy.
• A2: Placements are still bomber, but the placements are awkward and a few difficult may be difficult.
• A3: Many placements are difficult, but there is the occasional bomber piece.
• A4: There are several placements in a row that will hold nothing more than body weight.
• A5: 20 meters (60 ft) or more of body placements in a row.

In Europe, where most aid climbs were made long ago, this scale may be adjusted downward. 

Put simply, A3 placements are difficult, but will hold a short fall. A4 will involve some body

 weight placements, but not necessarily many in a row. And A5 is just unheard of. In Europe,

 A0 is used to indicate that fixed (and solid) pro is in place. 

In the USA, modern equipment and the unrelentless drive to climb ever bigger and more difficult

 Big Walls, has pushed aid climbing to limits that were unimaginable a few decades ago. 

This has also changed the interpretation of the rating scales. This is how John Long and 

John Middendorf interpret the modern aid climbing ratings it in their 'Big Wall' book: 

• A0: Hanging from gear, stepping on pitons, pulling up on nuts, etc. Everything that doesn't require aiders and can't be honestly called 'free climbing'. Also known as "french free".
• A1: Easy aid. Placements are easy and bomber. Each piece should hold a fall.
• A2: Moderate aid. Solid but often awkward and strenuous placements. Maybe a difficult placement or two above good pro. Falls pose no danger.
• A2+: Moderate aid, but with more tenuous placements above good pro. There is a potential for serious falls, but these will generally be otherwise uneventfull.
• A3: Hard aid. Requires many tenuous placements in a row and pieces need to be tested before weighting them. There should be solid placements within the pitch, but they are rather few and far between. During a fall, up to eight pieces of pro may rip out, but there generally is little serious danger. Takes several hours to complete a pitch.
• A3+: A3, but with a dangerous fall potential.
• A4: Serious aid. Most placements hold little less than body weight and falls are serious affairs. Being 10 to 15 meters (30 to 50 ft) above the last solid piece is not uncommon.
• A4+: Very serious aid. Placements are often very marginal and pitches require many hours to complete.
• A5: Extreme aid. No piece in the whole pitch can be trusted to hold a fall. No bolts or rivets in A5 pitches.
• A6: A5 with poor belays that won't hold a fall. The leader pops and the whole team is airborne. No one sane has ever done this, and no one insane who tried came back to tell us about it.

참조 4 : Clean Climbing rating scale ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Clean Scale

Clean Aiding is aid climbing without the use of bolting gear, pitons or other gear that scars the rock or becomes fixed after the ascent.^[23] Most difficult aid climbs still require pitons or other techniques using a hammer, and are thus rated on the 'A' scale past a certain point.

• C0: Bolt ladder, requires no placement of traditional gear. May indicate a pendulum or tension traverse on a free climb.
• C1: Easy aid and easy placements. Typically nuts, cams and hexes.
• C2: Moderate aid. Solid gear, but difficult to place. May require cam or sky hooks.
• C2+: Up to 10m fall potential but with little risk of injury.
• C3/A3: Hard aid. Many tenuous body-weight only placements in a row. Fall potential up to 15-20m.
• C3+/A3+: Same C3/A3, but with longer, more dangerous fall potential.
• C4/A4: Serious aid. Continuously tenuous gear placements in a row with up to 30m ledge fall potential. RURP placements may be encountered, or may have moderate sections of hooking.
• C4+/A4+: Severe aid. Longer fall potential, with high ledge fall potential. Each pitch can take many hours to lead. Thin nailing is to be expected, or may have long sections of hooking.
• C5/A5: Extreme aid. Nothing on the pitch will hold a fall. A fall may result in the death of the leader or even the whole team.

Note: C5 is a theoretical and controversial grade. Many argue that a pitch is not C5 until a climber or team has died as a direct result of gear failure. However, there are several pitches that currently hold a C5/A5 rating, as none of the gear placed is rated to hold a dynamic fall.

• C6 or A6 does not exist, since the aid climbing scale was developed as discrete scale that is not open ended. Also, since C5 implies the death of both climber and belayer, a rating of C6 could not cause an increase in severity.

[Choi Myeong Gwang]

다 외워야 합니까 .........................?

[Ropemate(Eddie)]

ㅋ 뭔가 헷갈릴때 찾아보면 됨 .

[날아라뿅알]

명광이는 다 외워서 형한테 검사 맡도록!

[Ropemate(Eddie)]

명광이 진짜 외우면 어쩔라고 .. 가냘픈 명광이 쓰러진다. ㅋㅋ

[줄리엣(신미영)]

나 저거 외우기 싫어서 멀티피치 안한다니까.........ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ