Page 21~30 Assembling The Zapper. Using The Zapper, Simple Pulser, Using The Simple Pulser

[최병호]

가끔 장의 내용물 중간이 전류에 의하여 영향을 받지 않기 때문에 시겔라, 대장균(E. coli) 및 기생충단계에 있는 장박테리아가 살아 남을 수 있지만, 종종 재핑에 의하여 거의 죽는다. 이것은 장운동의 심각한 수축을 야기한다. 남아있는 기생충과 박테리아는 한첩(티수푼2개분량)의 초강력 검은 호두껍질 팅크제로 제거하라.(543페이지를 보라)

좋은 박테리아와 나쁜 박테리아를 구분하는 방법은 없다. 그러나 좋은 박테리아라 할지라도 장의 벽을 뚫고 나오면 나쁜 박테리아이기 때문에, 나쁜 박테리아가 재핑의 목표가 되는 것이다. 완전한 배변습관이 몇일로 끝난다는 것은 좋은 소식이다. 결국 침입한 박테리아를 죽이는 것은 좋은 박테리아에게 좋은 것이다. 집에서 만든 요쿠르트나 버터밀크(조리법을 보라)는 장에 좋은 박테리아를 다시 이주시키는데 매우 좋다. 상업적으로 특별히 만들어진 것으로 당신 몸에 박테리아를 배양하는 것은, 당신에 정상이 되었을 때 금방 다시 기생충단계로 가는 위험성이 있기 때문에 좋은 방법이 아닌것 같다. 만약 당신이 유산균 박테리아를 섭취하여 장내 새균군을 공급하기로 결정하였다면, 먼저 Eurytrema같은 기생충에 대하여 검사해볼 것을 권한다.

기생충, 박테리아 및 바이러스가 대량으로 죽을 때, 지쳐 피곤해 질 수 있다. 그러므로 처음 재핑을 한 후에는 스트레스를 받지 않도록 노력하라. 그러나 심각한 부작용은 없다. 두번째와 세번째 재핑이, 이용가능한 아주 많은 먹이를 광란적으로 먹어치우던 박테리아와 바이러스를 싹 없애기 때문에 피로감이 생긴다고 나는 믿는다.

여기에 있는 부품목록이 재퍼를 만드는데 필요할 수 있다. 부품은 전자상점에서 구입할 수 있다.(편의를 위하여 Radio Shack의 부품번호를 표시한다)
 

재퍼 부품 목록 

Item	Radio Shack Catalog Number
large shoe box
9 volt battery

9 volt battery clips	270-325 (set of 5, you need 1)
On-Off toggle switch	275-624A micro mini toggle switch
1 KW resistor	271-1321 (set of 5, you need 2)
3.9 KW resistor	271-1123 (set of 2, you need 2)
low-current red LED	276-044 or 276-041 or 276-045
.0047 uF capacitor	272-130 (set of 2, you need 1)
.01 uF capacitor	272-1065 (set of 2, you need 1)
555 CMOS timer chip	276-1723 (set of 2, you need 1)
8 pin wire-wrapping socket for the chip	276-1988 (set of 2, you need 1) Note: Radio Shack is discontinuing all wire wrap sockets.Find another parts store or use 276-1995 (but the legs are much shorter and harder to attach clips to).
short (12”) alligator clip leads	any electronics shop, get 6
Microclip test jumpers	278-017 (you need 2 packages of 2)
2 bolts, about 1/8” diameter, 2” long, with 4 nuts and 4 washers	hardware store
2 copper pipes, ¾” diameter, 4” long	hardware store
sharp knife, pin, long-nose pliers

 완전 초보자를 위한 힌트: 일반적이지 않은 용어를 보고 포기하지 말아라. "리드"라는 것은 연결을 하는 하나의 연결선일 뿐이다. 포장에서 부품을 꺼낼 때, 테이프를 이용하여 꼬리표를 붙여라. 톱니모양의 부엌칼이 큰 안전핀처럼 제일 좋다. 아주 작은 클립을 이용하여 연습하라. 끝이 L형태로 된 금속은 긴코집게를 사용하여 U자 형태로 구부려야 잡기에 편하다. 칩과 칩홀더는 깨지기 쉽다. 연결이 망가지는 것을 대비하여 각각의 여유분을 구매하는 것이 좋다.

 그림 3 재퍼개념도

R1     1K   

R2     3.9K
R3     1K
R4     3.9K
C1    .01ìf
C2    .0047ìf
U3     MC1455
LED1    2 ma LED Red
Pin 1  ground     
Pin 8  power

이것을 전자기술자에게 주거나,  다음의 지시에 따라 구두상자 안에 직접 만들어 보라.

 

 재퍼 조립하기

1. 당신은 구두상자의 뚜껑을 이용하여 부품을 장착할 것이다. 상자는 완성품을 담아야 하므로 보관해 놔라.

2, 뚜껑 끝 근처에 구멍을 두개 뚫어라. 볼트가 들어갈 수 있도록 펜이나 연필로 구멍을 넓혀라. 외부에 볼트를 장착하되 대략 구멍 중간 쯤에 장착해야 와셔와 너트가 양쪽에서 조여진다. 조여라. 구멍의 안쪽과 바깥쪽에 "접지볼트"라고 꼬리표를 붙여라.

3. 선이 감겨있는 소켙구멍에 555칩을 장착하라. 외부표면을 조심스럽게 살펴서 칩의 위쪽 끝을 찾아라. 칩 외부에 쿠키형태로 물어뜯은 구멍이 위쪽이다. 칩과 소켙을 일렬로 하여, 칩의 핀을 소켙안으로 지그시 밀어 넣되, 정확히 딸깍할 때까지 밀어 넣는다.

4. 8개의 핀 구멍이 선이 감겨진 소켙에 맞도록 한다. 날카로운 연필로 구멍을 약간 넓힌다. 외부에 소켙을 장착한다. 안쪽과 바깥쪽 양쪽에 핀번호(연결점)를 쓰는데, 밖에서 볼 때 처럼 "쿠키 이빨자국"의 왼쪽에서 1부터 써내려간다. 숫자 4 다음에는 가로질러서 숫자 5부터 써올라간다. 숫자 8이 숫자 1과 마주할 것이다.

핀 5,6,7,8 근처에 ½ 인치 떨어진 두개의 구멍을 뚫어라. 두개의 구멍들은 칩으로부터 1/8 인치 이상으로 떨어져서는 안된다.(즉, 각 부품의 한쪽 끝은 555칩과 하나의 구멍을 공유한다.)

 

Mount the .01 uF capacitor near pin 5 on the outside. On the inside connect pin 5 to one end of this capacitor by simply twisting them together. Loop the capacitor wire around the pin first; then twist with the long-nose pliers until you have made a tight connection. Bend the other wire from the capacitor flat against the inside of the shoe box lid. Label it .01 on the outside and inside. Mount the .0047 uF capacitor near pin 6. On the inside twist the capacitor wire around the pin. Flatten the wire from the other end and label it .0047. Mount the 3.9 KW resistor near pin 7, connecting it on the inside to the pin. Flatten the wire on the other end and label it 3.9. Mount the 1 KW resistor and connect it similarly to pin 8 and label it 1K.

6. Pierce two holes ½ inch apart next to pin 3 (again, you can share the hole for pin 3 if you wish), in the direction of the bolt. Mount the other 1 KW resistor and label inside and outside. Twist the connections together and flatten the remaining wire. This resistor protects the circuit if you should accidentally short the terminals. Mount the 3.9KW resistor downward. One end can go in the same hole as the 1K resistor near pin 3. Twist that end around pin 3 which already has the 1K resistor attached to it. Flatten the far end. Label.
7. Next to the 3.9KW resistor pierce two holes ¼ inch apart
for the LED. No

 

tice that the LED has a positive and negative connection.
The longer wire is the anode (positive). Mount the LED on
the outside and bend back the wires, labeling them + and -
on the inside

 8. Near the top pierce a hole for the toggle switch. Enlarge
it until the shaft fits through from the inside. Remove nut and
washer from switch before mounting. You may need to trim away some paper with a serrated knife before replacing washer and nut on the outside. Tighten.
9. Next to the switch pierce two holes for the wires from the battery holder and poke them through. Attach the battery and tape it to the outside.

NOW TO CONNECT EVERYTHING

First, make holes at the corners of the lid with a pencil. Slit each corner to the hole. They will accommodate extra loops of wire that you get from using the clip leads to make connections.
After each connection gently tuck away the excess wire.

1. Twist the free ends of the two capacitors (.01 and .0047) together. Connect this to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip.
2. Bend the top ends of pin 2 and pin 6 (which already has a connection) inward towards each other in an L shape. Catch them both with an alligator clip and attach the other end of the alligator clip to the free end of the 3.9KW resistor by pin 7.

 

 3. Using an alligator clip connect pin 7 to the free end of the 1KW resistor attached to pin 8.
4. Using two microclips connect pin 8 to one end of the switch, and pin 4 to the same end of the switch. (Put one hook inside the hole and the other hook around the whole connection. Check to make sure they are securely  connected.)
5. Use an alligator clip to connect the free end of the other 1KW resistor (by pin 3) to the bolt.
6. Twist the free end of the 3.9KW resistor around the plus end of the LED. Connect the minus end of the LED to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip.
7. Connect pin number 1 on the chip to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip.
8. Attach an alligator clip to the outside of one of the bolts. Attach the other end to a handhold (copper pipe). Do the same for the other bolt and handhold.
9. Connect the minus end of the battery (black wire) to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip.
10. Connect the plus end of the battery (red wire) to the free end of the switch using a microclip lead. If the LED lights up you know the switch is ON. If it does not, flip the switch and see if the LED lights. Label the switch clearly. If you cannot get the LED to light in either switch position, you must double-check all of your connections, and make sure you have a fresh battery.

 

 11. Finally replace the lid on the box, loosely, and slip a couple of rubber bands around the box to keep it securely shut.

Fig. 4 Finished zapper, outside and inside. 

• Optional: measure the frequency of your zapper by connecting an oscilloscope or frequency counter to the handholds. Any electronics shop can do this. It should read between 20 and 40 kHz.
• Optional: measure the voltage output by connecting it to an oscilloscope. It should be about 8 to 9 volts. Note: a voltage meter will only read 4 to 5 volts.
• Optional: measure the current that flows through you when you are getting zapped. You will need a 1 KW resistor and oscilloscope. Connect the grounding bolt on the zapper to one end of the resistor. Connect the other end of the resistor to a handhold. (Adding this resistor to the circuit decreases the current slightly, but not significantly.)

 

 The other handhold is attached to the other bolt. Connect
the scope ground wire to one end of the resistor. Connect
the scope probe to the other end of the resistor. Turn the
zapper ON and grasp the handholds. Read the voltage on
the scope. It will read about 3.5 volts. Calculate current by
dividing voltage by resistance. 3.5 volts divided by 1 KW
is 3.5 ma (milliamperes).

Using The Zapper
1. Wrap handholds in one layer of wet paper towel before using. Grasp securely and turn the switch on to zap.
2. Zap for 7 minutes, let go of the handholds, turn off the zapper, and rest for 20 minutes. Then 7 minutes on, 20 minutes rest, and a final 7 minutes on. Trying the zapper on an illness to see “if it works” is not useful. Your symptoms may be due to a non-parasite. Or you may reinfect within hours of zapping. The best way to test your device is to find a few invaders that you currently have (see Lesson Twelve, page 492, or Lesson Twenty Seven, page 509). This gives you a starting point. Then zap yourself. After the triple zapping, none of these invaders should be present.

Simple Pulser
If you are ill or want a reliable zapping, make the first model. However, there is another way to make a zapper if you can not afford to build the first model.

An ordinary battery is a source of positive voltage. It is the positive voltage that eliminates so many parasites at once, not a specific frequency. So although the zapper's frequency is about 30 kHz (thirty thousand “zaps” per second), even 5 Hz (five

 

 “zaps” per second), about as fast as you can tap the battery with your hand, is moderately effective!

You must be connected to both terminals. One will be marked + (positive) and the other – (negative). If you simply touch these terminals with your wet fingers, nothing much happens. That is because your resistance to the current starts going up right away, so less and less current passes through you. 

Fig. 5 Simple pulser.

However if you tap the positive terminal with your wet hand, and tap it at a fairly high rate, your body's capacitors come into play. Capacitors only take part in the flow of electricity when they are charged and discharged. Tapping the terminal starts and stops the voltage so capacitors charge and discharge. This kind of resistance to current flow is much smaller.

The faster you tap, the greater the frequency of current pulses and the lower this kind of resistance becomes. Now you can have a considerable sustained current flow through your body.

 

 If you can tap even twice per second (2 Hz) for ten minutes without interruption you can give yourself a zapping that is moderately effective. Remember to take an intermission of twenty minutes and then repeat to avoid catching new viruses.

After a second twenty minute intermission repeat zapping a third time.

Using The Simple Pulser

 9 volt battery

 2 short (12”) alligator clip leads (from any electronics shop)

 2 copper pipes, ¾ ” diameter, 4” long (from a hardware store)

1. Wrap each handhold with one layer of wet paper towel. Place each on a non-conductive surface, like a plastic bag.
2. Connect the positive battery terminal to one handhold and the negative terminal to the other handhold using alligator clip leads.
3. Don't let the handholds touch.
4. Place a clock in front of you to time yourself.
5. Pick up the right handhold with your right hand.
6. Leave the left handhold on the table. Tap it with your left hand, preferably the fleshy part of the palm. You may brace yourself with your fingers on the plastic. Keep up a steady pace as fast as you are able.
7. When you get tired pick up the left handhold with your left hand and tap with your right hand. Keep changing off with the least interruption.
8. Repeat a second time 20 minutes later, and a third time 20 minutes after that.

A single 9 volt battery will wear out rather quickly used this way. Put two together, in parallel, for longer lasting power.  This requires two more short alligator clips. Connect positive terminals of the batteries to each other, and the negatives also.