Not so free: The irony of Korea’s ‘free size’ fashion

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Free size in South Korean fashion is a label that fits the industry better than the consumer

Fashion display at Dongdaemun, Seoul (Getty Images)

Choi A-ra, 24, entered university with a goal: to fit into "free-size" clothing.

"In places like Hongdae or Gangnam Station's underground shopping centers, most of the pretty clothes I wanted to buy only came in 'free-size,'" she said. "Back in high school, I was overweight — 170 centimeters and 65 kilograms — so my goal was to lose 10 kilograms to fit into them."

She reached her target weight. But even after losing nearly 10 kilograms, she found that free-size still didn’t fit.

"Dresses were often way too short. I could wear free-size T-shirts, but long-sleeve tops were tricky — the sleeves were always too short, and my shoulders were too wide," Choi said.

She is not alone in her frustration.

Kang, 32, said she no longer buys free-size clothing after several disappointing experiences.

"I've tried several times. But since I am only 156 centimeters tall, they are often way too big for me," Kang said.

What is free size?

"Free size" is a Korean term for clothing that comes in only one size. It doesn't necessarily mean the fabric is super-stretchy or the design is loose enough to fit various sizes. While common in both online and physical stores, there are no set rules for its dimensions.

Standard sizes like small, medium and large have recommended measurements set by the Korean Industrial Standards. For example, adult women's small-size pants are recommended to have a 58- to 69-centimeter waist and 80- to 88-centimeter hips, with 7 to 11 centimeters added as sizes increase. Even these guidelines, however, are often overlooked because they are not mandatory.

For free size, no such standards exist.

Kim Jin-young, a professor of textile art and fashion design at Hongik University and founder of the Korean clothing brand Dew E Dew E, said that sizes labeled as free size are often equivalent to a US small, or "size 55" in Korea.

She attributed the preval‎ence of free-size clothing to simplified inventory management.

"From a seller's perspective, the more size options available, the greater the inventory risk. To minimize this risk, many manufacturers have turned to producing 'one size' clothing," Kim said. "This trend became more prominent in the early 2000s with the rise of online shopping, as small businesses entered the e-commerce space and sought to reduce excess inventory."

If a brand offers small, medium and large sizes, producing 60 pieces of an item would typically mean making 20 of each size, she explained.

"But if all 20 smalls sell out quickly, a reorder would be necessary — even if the medium size remains in stock. This often leads to unsold inventory. By contrast, producing all 60 pieces in a single 'one size' option makes inventory management far simpler," she said.

A 2014 study published in The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal stated that "since Korean women in the 55-66 size range make up the largest share of the market, businesses reduce inventory costs by standardizing production to a single size. As a result, it leaves consumers to navigate the ambiguity of what 'free size' means."

The social impact

YouTuber Jina The Gorgeous has explored Korea’s free-size fashion through her videos, where she tries on various outfits. While she typically wears a US size 4-6, she often struggles to fit into Korea's one-size clothing.

Jina, who grew up in Korea, said she never expected the clothes to fit her perfectly, knowing the country’s sizing system. She also talked about the cultural pressures that often marginalize women with larger frames in Korea.

Now living in the US, Jina said she has learned to embrace a broader range of body types.

“I’ve come to understand that one size does not fit all. I no longer feel triggered by Korea’s ‘free size’ clothing because I’ve learned to accept my body,” she told The Korea Herald.

“Interestingly, while I’m considered small in the US, I’m labeled extra large in Korea. It took me a long time to transition from Korea’s beauty standards to a more inclusive mindset in the US.”

However, for many in Korea, such a mindset is difficult to adopt.

Professor Kim pointed out that the lack of standardized and varied sizing can be problematic.

"Many Korean women, feeling that they don’t fit into the 'free size' label, may perceive themselves as overweight or flawed," she said. "Rather than questioning the size system, they internalize self-blame about their bodies. This mindset could contribute to the rise of cosmetic surgery, dieting and even addiction to diet pills."

Many in Korea share this concern.

“Sometimes tiny pieces of clothing are labeled free size. I am not bothered by it anymore now that I know free-size is not for me. But I think young girls would more easily be affected by it and think they are fat," Choi said.

Also, in 2020, an online petition was posted on the Blue House’s official website titled "Please enact a law related to clothing size standard."

"It is difficult to purchase clothing because sizes vary from store to store, and now there are ambiguous sizes like free size and one size," it stated. "To resolve these difficulties, please enact a 'domestic clothing size standard law.'"

In response, an official from the Korean Agency for Technology and Standards explained, "KS regulations are not mandatory, so they cannot be enforced. They only provide guidelines for clothing manufacturing."

They added, "Manufacturers can make various sizes depending on the material and design. If the government interferes with this, we believe it could stifle brand creativity."

ssh@heraldcorp.com

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