Trango Nameless Tower 6239m
Area: Baltoro Group, Central Karakoram, Pakistan
1. Gran Diedre Desplomado, VI, 5.11 A4, 1100m , Michel Piola, Stephane Schaffter (Swiss), Patrick Delale,
Michel Fauquet (French), 1987 [article: Michel Piola, Danse Trango, “Mountain” 1988, January/February,
No. 119, p. 20-24; note: AAJ 1988, p. 250-251]. In August 2006 the route was climbed almost free without three pitches at 5.13b by Swiss team of
Francesco Pellanda, Giovanni Quirici and Christophe Steck.
2. British Route, VI, 5.10 A2, 1100m, Malcolm Howells, Martin Boysen, Joe Brown, Mo Anthoine (Great Britain),
1976, first route to the summit [articles: Martin Boysen, Last Trango, “Mountain” 1976, December, No. 52, p. 32-39; J. V. Anthoine, Trango conclusion, AJ 1977, p. 184-185; note: AAJ 1977, p. 266-268)]
3. Claire de Lune, VI, 5.10d A3, 1230m, Gabriel Besson, Claude-Alain Gaillan, David Maret, Frederic Roux (Swiss), 1999, approximately 900-1000m of the route was new, eight days snat on the wall (two fixed camps with portaledges), [note: AAJ 2000,
p. 338-339]
4. Spanish Route, ED, 5.10d, A3, 1500m, Clavel, Miguel Angel Garcia Gallego, Chiri Ros, Seiguer, 1989
5. Eternal Flame, VI, 7b+,A2, 900m, Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Gullich, Christof Stiegler, Milan Sykora, 1989 [chapter
in: Andy Fanshawe, Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-style, Seattle 1995; note: AAJ 1990, p. 287-288]. FFA (without 15m of A0): Denis Burdet, Nicolas Zambretti, Toni Arbones at 7c+ , one month in 2003. The
A0 pitch was omitted on the right by Iker and Eneko Pou in 2005 at 8a but climbed only on top-rope [note: “Climb” 2006, November, p. 83-84].
6. Slovenian Route, VI, 7a+ 900m, Slavko ?ankar, Fran?ek Knez, Bojan ?rot, 1987, FFA: Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Gullich, Hartmut Munchenbach in 1988 [note: AAJ 1989, p. 252-254]
7. The Crux Zone, VI, 5.10a A4, 1100m, Kim Hyung-il, Yang Ki-heon, Yeon Yang-yun, Kim Pal-bong, Wang Dae-shik, Won Dae-shik, July 2006 [note: “Climb” 2006, November, p. 83]
Free routes on Trango Tower:
-Slovenian Route (Slavko Cankar, Fran?ek Knez, Bojan ?rot, 1987), first RP ascent in 1988 at 7a+ by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Gullich and Hartmut Munchenbach
-Cowboy Direct, a direct start to the 1988 Swiss-Polish Route (VI 5.10 A3, 1100m, Wojciech Kurtyka, Erhard Loretan, 1988) freed at 5.13a in 1995 by Steve Bechtel,
Mike Lilygren, Bobby Model and Todd Skinner
Almost-free routes on Trango Tower:
Eternal Flame VI 7b+ A2, 35 pitches, Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Gullich, Christof Stiegler, Milan Sykora, 1989. The best
effort to date was made by Denis Burdet and Nicolas Zambretti from Switzerland and Toni Arbones from Spain
in 2003 at 5.13a (two crux pitches) and A0 (15-meter section of blank granite with a bolt ladder, it can be bypassed via two-pitch variation to the right which was unsuccesfully attempted by Iker and Eneko Pou in 2005).
http://www.wegomobile.com/2008/11/04/the-british-french-polish-trango-tower-expedition/
Gran Diedre Desplomado VI 6c A4, 27 pitches, Michel Piola, Stephane Schaffler, Michel Fauquet, Patrick Delale,
1987. Francesco Pellanda, Giovanni Quirici and Christophe Steck climbed 24 out of 27 pitches free, July-August 2006
아직 이터널프레임은 11월 4일까지는 초등 팀이 없는걸로 보아진다...
자료페이지-
http://www.wegomobile.com/2008/11/04/the-british-french-polish-trango-tower-expedition/
첫댓글 오아... 멋있는 곳이네....