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1950년 6월 3일 안나푸르나( 8,091m, 수확의 여신을 의미, 세계10위의 고봉 ) 등정으로 인류 최초의 8000미터 고봉등정자
가 된 프랑스의 모리스 에르족. 향년 93세로 생을 마감했다. 2012년 12월 13일.
한국의 삼일운동이 일던 1919년 1월 15일 생이다. 이 글을 올리는 이는 그를 두차례 만났다. 노산 이은상 선생과 1981년
워커힐 호텔에서 만났고 그 이듬해 카트만두 안나푸르나 프랑스문화관에서 그를 다시 만났다. 고귀한 인품의 모리스
에르족씨는 당시 프랑스의 체육문부성 장관시절이었고 한국의 젊은 산악인인 나에게 불편한 두손을 자연스럽게 내밀어
따스히 잡아주었던 기억이 어제 일같다.
프랑스 안나푸르나 원정대 대장으로 루이라슈날과 함께 무산소로 그 봉우리를 최초로 오른 그의 업적과 생애를 돌이켜보며
그의 명복을 빈다.
Maurice Herzog (born January 15, 1919 - 13 December 2012) is a French mountaineer and sports
administrator who was born in Lyon, France. He led the expedition that first climbed a peak over 8000m,
Annapurna, in 1950, and reached the summit with Louis Lachenal. Upon his return, he wrote a best-selling
book about the expedition.
Ascent of Annapurna
On June 3, 1950, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal became the first people to climb a peak over 8000m when
they summited the Himalayan mountain Annapurna, the 10th-highest mountain in the world. The ascent was all the
more remarkable because the peak was explored, reconnoitered and climbed all within one season; and was
climbed without the use of supplemental oxygen. The event caused a sensation that was only surpassed when
Everest was summited in 1953 by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.
The two-week retreat from the peak proved challenging. Both summit climbers had opted for light boots for the
summit dash. This, combined with Herzog losing his gloves near the summit, and a night spent bivouaced in a
crevasse on the descent with one sleeping bag for four climbers (Louis Lachenal, Gaston Rebuffat,
Lionel Terray, and Maurice Herzog) resulted in severe frostbite, with consequent gangrene requiring the
expedition doctor to perform emergency amputations in the field.[1] Both summit climbers lost all of their toes
and Herzog most of ' his fingers.
Annapurna was not climbed again until 1970, when the French north face route was climbed by a British Army
expedition, simultaneous with an ascent of the south face by an expedition led by British climber Chris
Bonington. The mountain's fourth ascent was not until 1977.[2]
Maurice Herzog, 93, Dies; Led Historic Himalaya Climb
By BRUCE WEBER
Published: December 14, 2012
Maurice Herzog, a French alpinist who was hailed as a hero in his country in 1950 when he and a fellow climber
became the first men to conquer a peak of more than 26,000 feet, that of Annapurna I in the Himalayas, died
on Thursday in Neuilly-sur-Seine, near Paris. He was 93.
모리스에르족의 생애 Life story of Maurice Herzog
His death was confirmed by Christian Brincourt, a longtime friend and former climbing partner. In a tribute, President François Hollande of France said Mr. Herzog’s climb was “engraved enduringly in our collective memory.”
Before Mr. Herzog led a team up Annapurna in the spring of 1950, men had in fact climbed higher — close to 28,000 feet on Mount Everest and K-2, the two tallest mountains in the world. But those climbers had not reached the summits, and it would be three years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay did so on Everest.
Mr. Herzog and Louis Lachenal reached the summit of Annapurna — the world’s 10th-highest peak, at 26,545 feet — on June 3 in brutal conditions; Mr. Herzog suffered frostbite that cost him most of his fingers and toes.
His star rose higher after he wrote an account of the journey that became what some call the most popular mountaineering book ever written. Titled “Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-Meter Peak,” the book is a harrowing tale of courage, camaraderie and nearly catastrophic struggle.
“The whole of this book has been dictated at the American Hospital at Neuilly, where I am still having rather a difficult time,” he wrote in the introduction, a year after the journey. The book concluded with a famous inspirational line: “There are other Annapurnas in the lives of men.”
The book is said to have sold more than 11 million copies by 2000; National Geographic Adventure magazine called it “the most influential mountaineering book of all time”; Sports Illustrated ranked it 77th in its list of the top 100 sports books ever written. In recent years, however, Mr. Herzog was accused of suppressing competing versions of the climb for his own self-aggrandizement.
In the 2000 book “True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna,” the alpinist and writer David Roberts depicted Mr. Herzog as something of a glory hog. By Mr. Roberts’s account, Mr. Herzog used his prominence to obscure the achievement of Mr. Lachenal, whose diary often conflicted with Mr. Herzog’s book, telling of infighting among the climbers. (Mr. Lachenal also lost digits in the climb.)
Mr. Herzog’s daughter, Felicité, wrote a book in which she portrayed her father as a megalomaniac who “rewrote history, betrayed and neglected his entourage without ever having the sense of hurting anyone because society judged him to be so good.”
But he remained admired in France. Last year he was decorated with the Grand Cross of the Legion of Honor, France’s highest civilian honor.
Mr. Herzog was born on Jan. 15, 1919. He fought in the French resistance during the German occupation of France in World War II. After his famous climb, he served in several government posts, including as secretary of state for sports when Charles de Gaulle was prime minister and as mayor of the resort town of Chamonix in the French Alps. He was a member of the International Olympic Committee for 25 years and helped bring the 1992 winter games to Albertville, France.
He is survived by his daughter, from his first marriage, as well as his second wife, Elisabeth, and two sons, Mathias and Sébastien.
In 1953, Mr. Herzog wrote an essay for The New York Times in which he described the first time he went climbing in the Alps as a student, finding himself isolated, vulnerable, in peril — and thrilled.
“I believe what I felt that day closely resembles what we call happiness,” he wrote. “I also believe that if I felt such happiness in such rigorous circumstances it is because the planned, organized, predigested happiness that the modern world offers is not complete. It leaves certain sides of man’s nature unsatisfied.”
글 Scott Sayare contributed reporting from Paris.
네팔국 포칼라에 설치된 안나푸르나 초등정 기념패
1000원을 주고 산 이 책을 여러차례 읽는 동안 젖어드는 진한 감동과 깊은 간접체험을 느낄 수 있어 좋았던 책이다.
천만권 이상 초월의 스테드베스트셀러로 꼽힌다.
안나푸르나 그리고 인근에 있는 다울라기리 초등정을 둘러싸고 오스트리아 독일 스위스 뉴질랜드 등 4개국이
열띤 각축을 벌이는 기록이 커트딤베르거의 다울라기리 초등정 기록영화 및 summit and secret에 상세히
수록되어 있다. 모리스에르족도 다울라기리 등정을 위해 열심히 정찰대를 꾸려 산록 이곳저곳을 누볐던 장본인
으로 히말라야 등정사에 기록되어 있다.