The Grandeur of Gangwon

[성김 대사]

Every time I set out on a long car ride to one of Korea’s provincial cities, I am awed by the beauty of its mountains.  This was especially the case on my drive from Seoul to the city of Gangneung in Gangwon Province.  Everyone knows about the generosity of the Gangwon people, the long line of prolific writers from the area, and the richness of its soil that produces tasty potatoes.  I experienced all these things and more on my first official trip to Gangwon Province.

The beauty of Gangneung

At dusk, we arrived on the shores of Gangneung at an art museum and hotel called Haslla Art World, where Embassy staff and I would spend the night before a full day of events.  I was impressed by the craftsmanship of the hotel, which treats each hotel room as a piece of artwork.  After a simple dinner of gamja ongshimi, a Gangneung specialty, we took a walk around the museum.  Traditional and contemporary pieces of art co-mingled: a sculpture of Shin Saimdang, the noted poet from Gangneung and mother of Confucian ideals, sat not too far from a collection of pieces inspired by Pinocchio.  The grounds were expansive, as the artist couple who built the facility also runs an international artist residency program, which will host a New York artist in August.  

Art museum and hotel in one spot!

Early the next morning, I took a stroll in the Haslla’s sculpture garden, which led me to the top of the cliff on which the museum is perched.  The view of the ocean was spectacular.  From the cliff, I could see the North Korean submarine that infiltrated Gangneung’s shores in 1996.  Later that morning, we toured that submarine, now on display at the Unification Park.   

In front of the North Korean submarine

The next stop was the Seongyojang Manor, where I was greeted by the Mayor of Gangneung and the owner of the historic manor.  At a recent speech, in response to a question from the audience asking who I respect most among Korean historic figures, I had named King Sejong.  So it was particularly exciting for me to meet the 18^th descendant of King Sejong’s brother Prince Hyoryeong still living in the family manor built 300 years ago.  On the beautiful grounds of Seongyojang, I enjoyed a Gwanno Mask Drama for the first time, and even got pulled in to play a small part in the drama with the Mayor.  

Taking part in a Gwanno Mask Drama

Over lunch with a local novelist, professors and community leaders, I was struck by the warmth of the Gangneung people.  Sharing a big pot of chodang sundubu, we talked about the important role the annual Danoje Festival plays in bringing together the community on a regular basis. I could sense how proud the Gangneung people are of their heritage found in the long line of Korean poets and thinkers from the city, dating back to Heo Gyun (1569-1618). 

But my thrilling trip did not end there.  My final stop took me to the Class300 hotel in Sokcho for a press seminar with 27 members of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade press corps representing print, broadcast and Internet media.  It was a great opportunity for all of us to get away from Seoul and have friendly but frank discussions about the issues of the day.  The conversations continued over dinner with glasses of so-maik (soju rich beer) and even extended later into the evening with some noraebang. 

And of course, since we were so close to Seorak National Park, the trip could not end without the whole group of journalists making it up to the top of Mount Seorak.  I unfortunately could not join, but I heard the group had a very pleasant hike.   

The beautiful scenery of Mount Seorak