Ironwork for a Rundschau lounge coat

[패턴과Stefano]

This is for all those who have tried to work with the Müller & Sohn draft for men's lounge coats.

This is relatively advanced stuff and not aimed at the beginner, therefore I will assume that you have an understanding of the techniques shown in the images.

Nonetheless, I am aware that beginners will read this anyway, so I'll start with a very vital step.

Precondition is: You have drafted a complete coat pattern and you have opened the wedge at the pocket (make a cut along the pocket and the dashed line going from front of pocket to the hem. The word "kneifen" means pinch, which in this case means to make the paper pieces overlap to open the wedge. This is done to create a better fit at the hips.)



First step: Checking (trueing) the pattern for matching seam lengths, the smooth shape of neckhole and scye and the congruency of the seams at front ant back.



Same with the sleeve pattern. Place the pieces with the actual seam lines on top of each other. Make sure that there are no edges or holes where the pieces meet.



The centre front of the Rundschau sleeve is relocated inwards, usually by about 2cm. This causes the upper sleeve to have a slightly shorter front seam, which is corrected by shaping/ stretching it with the iron.

We start with the treatment of the front:



Abb. 47: The front piece has been prepared, which means it's marked in, the front dart is closed and the wedge at the waist is taken out. You can already see the slight fullness in the chest created by this.

Abb. 48: Stretching of the side seam at the waist level. This is mainly done to allow the inlay to fold without distortions once the seam has been pressed open.

Abb. 49: The iron is driven towards the centre of the chest, while the other hand grabs the fullness.

Abb. 50: The front is stretched along the upper chest, this results in a bit of excess length in the front scye.

Abb. 51: The length is partly shrunk (lower scye), partly stretched out (upper scye).

Abb. 52: Let the iron rest for a while to preserve the shape.

Abb. 53: At the CF you strat with the iron at waist level.

Abb. 54: The chest is then thoroughly stretched, the iron follows the free hand towards the shoulder seam.



Abb.55: The front is shrunk, this shortens the bridle as well as the lapel.

Abb. 56: Shows the finished front with sufficient fullness in the chest.

Next follows the treatment of the (modern) shoulder. The images show the treatment for a 50's shoulder, which was not curved and had relatively little padding.



Abb. 57 to 61: The inlay at the front neck hole is slightly stretched, the excess length can be transferred to the armhole (to create room for the shoulder bone).
The stripe/ grainline has to be kept straight.

Abb. 62: Shows the finished front part.

Abb. 63: The stripes should run straight (perpendicular to the waist line) up to the neck, something that can be achieved with this sort of ironwork.

Next is the shaping of the side panel:



Abb. 64 and 65: Straighten and stretch the side panel like shown, this is necessary because of the defined taper in the waist.

Abb. 66: The inlay at the side seam gets a good stretching to avoid later distortions.

Abb. 67: The finished side panel, showing no distortions.

The actual Rundschau pattern is in the centre back a bit different to older systems.
The difference lies below the waist. In older (and Italian) drafts the CB runs down straight as a perpendicular to the waist line, whereas the Rundschau back is slightly angled.
The back piece is laid out on the cloth in the same way like all the others, with the CB below the waist following the grainline of the fabric.

Because of the slightly angled back construction, the back neckpoint is further away from the CB, which is corrected by the shaping with the iron.

Before the early 50's the pieces of a coat were treated differently, especially the scye in the back was usually more shrunk than stretched.
Then, at the start of the 50's, Müller & Sohn published another way of treating the back, which is shown in the following images. The thought behind it is the fact, that any cloth does not allow much shrinking or stretching along the straight run, either warp or weft. But, when using the bias of the fabric, it can take much more ironwork.

Abb. 68: Stretching of the inlay at CB.

Abb. 69: The iron is pushed til half of back part.

Abb. 70: Starting at the side seam, the back part is stretched towards the neck.





Abb. 71: You start by holding the back piece at the CB, moving the iron slowly but steadily from the side seam towards the upper neck.

Abb. 72: You stretch the back along the blades. This creates a certain length in the cloth along the scye.

Abb. 73: This excess length is driven towards the shoulder.

Abb.74: The rear scye is pressed short in the process.Depending on the fabric, this might have to be done repeatedly.

Abb. 75: Shows the back so far.

Abb. 76 and 77: Shrinking the CB. The roundness in the upper CB is straightened and the length is pressed towards the blades. A way to shorten the CB in this section before pressing is to gather it along the marked seam (preferably on the inlay side) with a double basting thread.


Abb. 78: The result so far.

Abb. 79: The shoulder seam of the modern coat is placed forward and therefore needs some ease (note the „wave“ of cloth at the shoulder seam). For a person with a round back or strong blades they recommend a shoulder dart.

Abb. 80: This length in the shoulder is shrunk, starting above the blades (to keep the length there).

Abb. 81: This shrinking process has to be done until the shoulders of both back parts lie flat on the table.




Abb.82: It is advised to sew the CB dierctly after it was shrunk, this way the shortness will stay in place. The CB seam is pressed open from the neck down, the length is distributed towards the blades.

Abb. 83: The finished back.

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