There are many variety of roses, that one can grow in a garden
to beautify it. Climbing rose is one such variety, that is trained on a trellis,
wall, or clambered into a tree, and when in full bloom, is one of the most
delightful sights in the garden. Pruning climbing roses requires attention to
maintain its healthy growth and increase the number of new sprouts. Most
climbing roses need seasonal and light pruning to expose them to light and air.
Here are some tips to prune climbing roses.
One of the most essential
requirements of pruning is a good gardening tool; a sharp pair of shears (garden
scissors), in different sizes. A jagged end will damage the delicate stems, and
bud growth. Climbing roses are not self-trailing, they need to be trained onto a
garden trellis or a horizontal support fencing. If left to its own design, they
become a tangled mess of branches with very few and unhealthy flowers. Pruning
should be done any time between late autumn and late winter, as by then, the
flowering season is over, and the climber has shed its leaves. It is easier to
prune when the plants are bare, as they allow a better idea of its trailing
route.
Pruning Young Climbing RosesYoung climbers need
formative training and pruning to establish themselves. Young climbing roses
that are under 3 years, should not be pruned frequently, as it is important for
the main veins to grow strong and establish themselves. Couple of main strong
vines should be trained out horizontally, to ensure that the shoots do not cross
each other. The sprout (shoots) coming from these vines are the flower
producers. To facilitate speedy growth on the main branches (vines), tip-prune
them till the first strong bud, to encourage new lateral shoots. Around the same
time, remove all dead, diseased or weak growth, and dead flower heads to
encourage further flowering. One can also carry out this activity just before
the flowering season starts, however, this is done to clear the plants of any
overgrowth, or entanglements. Do not prune close to the flowering bud sprouts. A
young climber should be pruned only to encourage growth, until well
established.
Pruning Established Climbing RosesPruning
is easier for established roses than young climbers. As their formative training
is done, pruning is only done to further bushy and large flower growths. Once
the flowing season is over, and the plant is bare, limit the rose vines (major
ones) to about four or six, and spread them out on all sides. Preferably keep
the younger green ones, and remove the excess vines. Cut back the tips of these
vines by a couple of inches. Unlike other roses, only tips have to be pruned for
climbers, as it is unhealthy for the plant to have its main stems (down stems)
severely cut back, and pruning back the long stems will alter the look and
training of the climber. However, dead stumps at the base of the plant can
encourage rot, so that also needs to be cut away. One can lightly prune the main
stems, by cutting back the side shoots about 2-3 inches, only if they have
outgrown their space.
Pruning will also depend on the two types of
climbing roses; once flowering and repeat flowering climbers. Once flowering
roses should be pruned right after the flowering season is over. As they mostly
flower on the old wood, prune just about a quarter of the wood stems. Prune
repeat flowering climbers during its inactive period. Constantly keep cutting
dead flower heads to encourage speedy re-flowering. Do this either in late
winter or early spring, cut about one-third of the old wood veins, and trim the
remaining to control its growth and shape.
While pruning will boost
better growth; aftercare also plays a vital role in its establishment. Clear all
pruned and rotted stems, leaves, and flowers from around the climber base and
dispose it. This will help control the spread of plant diseases like mildew,
black spot, etc. Spread a rose fertilizer over the soil and mulch them with
layer of garden compost to encourage growth. Pruning will also encourage the
growth of healthier stems and attractive large-sized roses.