Sewing

[나경실]

Sewing

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Craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a needle and thread

Not to be confused with Sowing

"Sewn" redirects here. For the song, see Sewn (song)

Sewing Fisherman´s Wife by Anna Ancher

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a needle and threadtextile arts, arising in the Paleolithicspinning yarn or weaving fabric, archaeologists believe Stone Age people across Europe and Asia sewed fur and skin clothing using bone, antler or ivory needles and "thread" made of various animal body parts including sinew, catgut, and veins^[1]

For thousands of years, all sewing was done by hand. The invention of the sewing machine in the 19th century and the rise of computerization in the 20th century led to mass production and export^{[citation needed]} Fine hand sewing is a characteristic of high-quality tailoring, haute couture fashion, and custom dressmaking, and is pursued by both textile artists and hobbyists^{[citation needed]}

The first known use of the word "sewing" was in the 14th century.^[2]

Contents

• 1 History
  • 1.1 Origins
  • 1.2 Industrial Revolution
  • 1.3 20th century and today
• 2 Garment construction
  • 2.1 Patterns and fitting
  • 2.2 Sewing tools
  • 2.3 Elements of garment sewing
  • 2.4 Clothing technology
  • 2.5 Construction of digital garments
• 3 See also
• 4 Notes
• 5 References
• 6 External links

History[edit]

Origins[edit]

Seated woman sewing a kimono, Utagawa K uniyoshi

Sewing has an ancient history estimated to begin during the Paleolithic Era^[3] Sewing was used to stitch together animal hides for clothing and for shelter. The Inuit, for example, used sinew from caribou for thread and needles made of bone;^[4] the indigenous peoples of the American Plains and Canadian Prairies used sophisticated sewing methods to assemble tipi^[5] Sewing was combined with the weaving of plant leaves in Africa to create baskets, such as those made by Zulu^[6] The weaving of cloth from natural fibres originated in the Middle East around 4000 BC, and perhaps earlier during the Neolithic Age^[7]

During the Middle Ages, Europeans who could afford it employed seamstresses and tailorscoronationsRobert Radcliffe, 1st Earl of Sussex who was appointed Lord Sewer at the coronation of Henry VIII of England19th centurymendingquilts^[3] Decorative needlework such as embroideryneedles, pins and pincushions were included in the trousseaus^[8]

Decorative embroidery was valued in many cultures worldwide. Although most embroidery stitches in the Western repertoire are traditionally British, Irish or Western European in origin, stitches originating in different cultures are known throughout the world today. Some examples are the Cretan Open Filling stitch, Romanian Couching or Oriental Couching, and the Japanese stitch.^[9] The stitches associated with embroidery spread by way of the trade routes that were active during the Middle Ages. The Silk Road^[10] European imperial settlements also spread embroidery and sewing techniques worldwide. However, there are instances of sewing techniques indigenous to cultures in distant locations from one another, where cross-cultural communication would have been historically unlikely. For example, a method of reverse appliqué^[10]

Industrial Revolution[edit]

Early 20th century sewing in Detroit, Michigan

A woman sewing as a street vendor in Bangkok, Thailand

Play media

Sewing with an 1894 Singer

The Industrial Revolution shifted the production of textiles from the household to the mills. In the early decades of the Industrial Revolution, the machinery produced whole cloth. The world's first sewing machine was patented in 1790 by Thomas Saint.^[11] By the early 1840s, other early sewing machines began to appear. Barthélemy Thimonnier introduced a simple sewing machine in 1841 to produce military uniforms for France's army; shortly afterward, a mob of tailors^[12] By the 1850s, Isaac Singer

While much clothing was still produced at home by female members of the family, more and more ready-made clothes for the middle classes were being produced with sewing machines. Textile sweatshopspiece work^[13]

Tailors became associated with higher-end clothing during this period. In London, this status grew out of the dandy trend of the early 19th century, when new tailor shops were established around Savile Row^[14] These shops acquired a reputation for sewing high-quality handmade clothing in the style of the latest British fashions, as well as more classic styles. The boutique culture of Carnaby Street

20th century and today[edit]

Bangladeshi

Sewing underwent further developments during the 20th century. As sewing machines became more affordable to the working class, demand for sewing patternsEbenezer Butterick^{[citation needed]} Today, the low price of ready-made clothing in shops means that home sewing is confined largely to hobbyists in Western countries^{[citation needed]}, with the exception of cottage industries in custom dressmaking and upholstery.

The spread of sewing machine technology to industrialized economies around the world meant the spread of Western-style sewing methods and clothing styles as well. In Japan, traditional clothing was sewn together with running stitch that could be removed so that the clothing could be taken apart and the assorted pieces laundered separately. The tight-locked stitches made by home sewing machines, and the use of Western clothing patterns, led to a movement towards wearing Western-style clothing during the early 20th century.^[15] Western sewing and clothing styles were disseminated in sub-Saharan Africa by Christian missionaries from the 1830s onward. Indigenous cultures, such as the Zulu and Tswana^[16] First Western hand sewing techniques, and later machine sewing, spread throughout the regions where the European colonists settled. However, a recent examination of new online learning methods demonstrated that technology can be adapted to share knowledge of a culture's traditional sewing methods. Using self-paced online tutorials, a Malay sewing class learned how to tailor and sew a traditional men's Baju Kurung garment in 3 days, whereas a traditional Malay sewing class would have taken 5 days to teach the same information.^[17]

Advances in industrial technology, such as the development of synthetic fibres during the early 20th century, have brought profound changes to the textile industry^[18][19] It is estimated that every lost textile job in a Western country in recent years has resulted in 1.5 jobs being created in an outsourced^[20] Textile workers who perform tasks with sewing machines, or do detailed work by hand, are still a vital component of the industry, however. Small-scale sewing is also an economic standby in many developing countries, where many people, both male and female, are self-employed sewers.

Garment construction[edit]

A tailor fitting a suit in Hong Kong

Patterns and fitting[edit]

Garment construction is usually guided by a patternhaute couture^[21]

Most clothing today is mass-produced, and conforms to standard sizing^[22]

Home sewers often work from patterns purchased from companies such as Simplicity, Butterick, McCall's, Vogue^[23] Volume can be added with elements such as pleats, or reduced with the use of dartsmuslins

Sewing tools[edit]

Sewers working on a simple project need only a few sewing tools, such as measuring tape, needle, thread, cloth, and sewing shears. More complex projects may only need a few more simple tools to get the job done, but there are an ever-growing variety of helpful sewing aids available.

In addition to sewing shears, rotary cutters may be used for cutting fabric, usually used with a cutting mat to protect other surfaces from being damaged. Seam rippers are used to remove mistaken stitches. Special marking pens and chalk are used to mark the fabric as a guide to construction.^[24]

Pressing and ironing are an essential part of many sewing projects, and require additional tools. A steam iron is used to press seams and garments, and a variety of pressing aids such as a seam roll or tailor's ham are used to aid in shaping a garment. A pressing cloth may be used to protect the fabric from damage.^[24]

Sewing machinessergers^[25]

A wide variety of presser foot^[26]

Latest sewing machines Brother "Nexio" Direct Drive Lock Stitcher with Electronic Feeding System

Elements of garment sewing[edit]

Garment construction

Seamstresses are provided with the pattern, with the intent of using as little fabric as possible. Patterns will specify whether to cut on the grain or the bias^[27]

Supporting materials, such as interfacing, interlining, or lining

Before or after the pattern pieces are cut, it is often necessary to mark the pieces to provide a guide during the sewing process. Marking methods may include using pens, pencils, or chalk, tailor's tacks, snips, pins, or thread tracing, among others.^[28]

In addition to the normal lockstitch, construction stitches^[29] Seam types include the plain seam, zigzag seam, flat fell seam

Clothing technology[edit]

Clothing technology^{[citation needed]}.

Construction of digital garments[edit]

Virtual sewing machine tools in a cloth simulation software

Digital clothing created with virtual sewing machine in a cloth simulation software

With the development of cloth simulation software such as CLO3D, Marvelous Designer and Optitex, seamstresses can now draft patterns on the computer and visualize clothing designs by using the pattern creation tools and virtual sewing machines within these cloth simulation programs.^[30]

See also[edit]

• Embroidery stitch
• Glossary of sewing terminology
• Glossary of textile manufacturing
• List of sewing occupations
• List of sewing stitches
• Needlework
• Notions
• Patchwork
• Pattern
• Sewing machine
• Quilting

Notes[edit]

1. ^ Anawalt (2007), pp. 80–81
2. ^ "Sewing". Retrieved 2012-05-25.
3. ^ Jump up to: ^{a b} Kooler, Donna (2009). Donna Kooler's Encyclopedia of Sewing: Hand & Machine Sewing: 12 Projects. Leisure Arts. p. 10. ISBN 9781601404565.
4. ^ "On Canadian Ground". Retrieved December 10, 2012.
5. ^ Holley, Linda A. (2007). Tipis, Tepees, Teepees: History and Design of the Cloth Tipi. Gibbs Smith. p. 87. ISBN 9781586855116
6. ^ W. D. Hammond-Tooke, ed. (1980). The Bantu-Speaking Peoples of Southern Africa. Taylor & Francis. p. 119. ISBN 9780710007087
7. ^ Sekhri, Seema (2011). Textbook of Fabric Science Fundamentals to Finishing. PHI Learning Pvt. Ltd. ISBN 9788120341838
8. ^ Whiting, Gertrude (1971). Old-Time Tools & Toys of Needlework150–1ISBN 9780486225173
9. ^ Webb, Mary (2006). Embroidery Stitches. Struik. pp. 155, 159, 170. ISBN 9781770074224
10. ^ Jump up to: ^{a b} Leslie, Catherine Amoroso (2007). Needlework Through History: An Encyclopedia. Greenwood Publishing Group. pp. xii. ISBN 9780313335488.
11. ^ http://thumbnails.visually.netdna-cdn.com/national-sewing-month-2011_50290c5a9fbfb.jpg
12. ^ Carlson, Laurie M. (2003). Queen of Inventions: How the Sewing Machine Changed the World. Millbrook Press. p. 8. ISBN 9780761327066
13. ^ Perkin, Joan (1993). Victorian Women. London: John Murray (Publishers) Ltd. pp. 189–90. ISBN 0-7195-4955-8
14. ^ Valerie Steele, ed. (2010). The Berg Companion to Fashion. Berg. p. 618. ISBN 9781847885920
15. ^ Janet Hunter; Penelope Francks, eds. (2012). The Historical Consumer: Consumption and Everyday Life in Japan, 1850-2000. Palgrave Macmillan. pp. 56–7. ISBN 9780230273665
16. ^ Cornwell, Andrea (2005). Readings in Gender in Africa. Indiana University Press. p. 179. ISBN 9780253345172
17. ^ Abdul Salam Zailan Arabee & Mansur Azmi (2005). Dan Remenyi (ed.). Proceedings of the 5th European Conference on e-Learning. Academic Conferences Limited. pp. 18–9. ISBN 9781905305124
18. ^ Bureau of Labor Statistics, U.S. Department of Labor (April 26, 2012). "Occupational Outlook Handbook". Retrieved November 10, 2013.
19. ^ "Singer Quantum Sewing 2010 to 2020"
20. ^ Flanagan, Mike (November 18, 2012). "The Flanarant: China's textile and clothing challenge in new era". Retrieved December 10, 2012.
21. ^ Steele, Valerie & Patricia Mears, Clare Sauro (2007). Ralph Rucci: The Art of Weightlessness. Yale University Press. pp. 121–2. ISBN 9780300122787
22. ^ Calderin, Jay (2009). Form and Fashion. Rockport Publishers. p. 168. ISBN 9781592535415
23. ^ Veblen, Sarah (2012). The Complete Guide to Perfect Fitting. Creative Publishing International.
24. ^ Jump up to: ^{a b} Mitnick, Sarai (2011). The Colette Sewing Handbook. Cincinnati, Ohio: Krause Publications. pp. 12–14.
25. ^ "Sewing"
26. ^ Ahles, Carol (1996). Fine Machine Sewing. Newtown, CT: The Taunton Press.
27. ^ Mitnick, Sarai (2011). The Colette Sewing Handbook. Cincinnati, Ohio: Krause Publications. pp. 42–47.
28. ^ Mitnick, Sarai (2011). The Colette Sewing Handbook. Cincinnati, Ohio: Krause Publications. pp. 48–49.
29. ^ Baumgartel, Beth (2009). Singer Simple Sewing. Creative Publishing International. pp. 57–8. ISBN 9781589234741
30. ^ "About Virtual Fashion and the Creation of Digital Clothes". Retrieved December 10, 2015.

References[edit]

• Anawalt, Patricia Rieff (2007). The Worldwide History of DressISBN 978-0-500-51363-7
• Barber, Elizabeth Wayland (1994). Women's Work:The First 20,000 Years. W. W. Norton.
• Huxley, Susan (1999). Sewing Secrets from the Fashion Industry: Proven Methods to Help You Sew Like the Pros. New York: Rodale Publishing. ISBN 978-0-87596-980-0
• Meyrich, Elisaa (2006). RIP IT!: How to Deconstruct and Reconstruct the Clothes of Your DreamsISBN 978-0-7432-6899-8
• Meyrich, Elissa (2002). Sew Fast Sew Easy: All You Need to Know When You Start to Sew. New York: St. Martin's Griffin. ISBN 0-312-26909-9
• Reader's Digest (1976). Complete Guide to Sewing. The Reader's Digest Association, Inc. ISBN 0-89577-026-1
• Picken, Mary BrooksThe Fashion Dictionary. Funk and Wagnalls.
• Singer: The New Sewing Essentials by The Editors of Creative Publishing International ISBN 0-86573-308-2

External links[edit]

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Sewing.

• Spoken version of this article by Eva Longoria on Glamour Magazine website, retrieved 27 February 2016

show v t e Sewing
Techniques	Basting Cut Darning Ease Embellishment Fabric tube turning Floating canvas Gather Godet Gusset Heirloom sewing Shirring
Stitches	List of sewing stitches Backstitch Bar tack Blanket Blind stitch Buttonhole Catch stitch Chain stitch Cross-stitch Embroidery stitch Hemstitch Lockstitch Overlock Pad stitch Pick stitch Rantering Running Sashiko Stoating Tack Topstitch Zigzag
Seams	Neckline Felled seam Seam allowance Style line
Notions Trim	Bias tape Collar stay Elastic Galloon Grommet / Eyelet Interfacing Passementerie Piping Ruffle Rickrack Self-fabric Soutache Twill tape Wrights
Closures	Buckle Button Buttonhole Frog Hook-and-eye Hook-and-loop fastener Shank Snap Zipper
Materials	Grain / Bias Selvage Textile / Fabric Thread Yarn
Tools	Bobbin Dress form Needlecase Needle threader Pattern notcher Pin Pincushion Pinking shears Scissors Seam ripper Sewing gauge Sewing needle Stitching awl Tailor's ham Tape measure Thimble Tracing paper Tracing wheel
Trades Suppliers	Cloth merchant Draper Dressmaker Haberdasher Mercer Sewing occupations Tailor
Sewing machine manufacturers	List of sewing machine brands and companies Barthélemy Thimonnier Bernina International Brother Industries Elias Howe Elna Feiyue Frister & Rossmann Janome Jones Sewing Machine Company Juki Merrow New Home Pfaff Sewmor Singer Tape edge machine Viking / Husqvarna White
Pattern manufacturers	Butterick Burda Clothkits McCall's Simplicity
Media related to Sewing at Wikimedia Commons Clothing portal Glossary of terms

show v t e Textile arts
Fundamentals	Applique Beadwork Crochet Dyeing Embroidery Fabric Felting Fiber Knitting Lace Macramé Nålebinding Needlework Patchwork Passementerie Plying Quilting Rope Rug making Sewing Spinning Stitch Textile printing Weaving Yarn
History of ...	Byzantine silk Clothing and textiles Silk Quilting Silk in the Indian subcontinent Textile manufacturing by pre-industrial methods Textiles in the British Industrial Revolution Timeline of textile technology
Regional and ethnic	African Andean Australian Aboriginal Hmong Indigenous peoples of the Americas Kongo Korean Kuba Māori Mapuche Maya Mexican Navajo Oaxacan Sumba
Related	Blocking Fiber art Mathematics and fiber arts Manufacturing Preservation Recycling Textile industry Textile museums Units of measurement Wearable fiber art
Glossaries	Dyeing terms Sewing terms Textile manufacturing terms

show v t e Decorative arts and handicrafts
Textile	Banner-making Canvas work Crocheting Cross-stitch Embroidery Felting Friendship bracelet Knitting Lace-making Lucet Macrame Millinery Needlepoint Needlework Patchwork Quilting Ribbon embroidery Rug hooking Rug making Sewing Shoemaking Spinning (textiles) String art Tapestry Tatting Tie-dye Weaving
Paper	Altered book Bookbinding Calligraphy Cardmaking Cast paper Collage Decoupage Photomontage Iris folding Jianzhi Origami Kirigami Moneygami Embossing Marbling Papercraft Papercutting Papermaking Paper toys Papier-mâché Pop-up book Quilling Scrapbooking Stamping Wallpaper
Wood	Bentwood Cabinetry Carpentry Chip carving Ébéniste Fretwork Intarsia Marquetry Wood burning Wood carving Woodturning
Ceramic	Azulejo Bone china Earthenware Porcelain Pottery Stoneware Terracotta
Glass	Cameo glass Glassware Stained glass Chip work
Metal	Engraving Jewellery Goldsmith Silversmith Bronze and brass ornamental work Ironwork
Other	Assemblage Balloon modelling Beadwork Bone carving Doll making Dollhouse Egg decorating Engraved gems Hardstone carving Lath art Lapidary Leatherworking Miniatures Micromosaic Mosaic Glass mosaic Pietra dura Private press Pressed flower craft Scrimshaw Straw marquetry Wall decal

Authority control	GND: 4171095-2 LCCN: sh85120542 NARA: 10645230 NDL: 00569991

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