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NEW ZEALAND
2020년 2월 1일 (토) 오후 2:01
New Zealand is the largest country in Polynesia, which is a group of over 1,000 islands scattered over the central and southern Pacific Ocean. Historically, Polynesians had a strong tradition of sailing and using stars to navigate at night. New Zealand and several nearby islands are the unsubmerged portions of the largely sunken continent of Zealandia. Zealandia is thought to have mostly sunk 23 million years ago. Much later, some islands were forced up again due to earthquakes and volcanoes in the area.
Maori People - The Maori are the original or earliest known inhabitants of New Zealand. They journeyed from the islands of Eastern Polynesia in a number of canoe voyages over many years. These journeys established Maori as daring and resourceful adventurers, and as one of the greatest navigating people of all time. Main aspects of Maori culture include art, legend, tattoo, performances, customs, hospitality and community. Since the early 1980s, Maori culture has undergone a renaissance. The renewed interest in Maori culture has extended to Maori language, and Maori language programs are now flourishing.
North Island
Hot Water Beach - Within two hours on either side of low tide, an area of sand with hot water beneath it is exposed. Visitors find naturally heated mineral water from deep within the earth bubbling up through the golden sand. Water originally seeps down through cracks in the earth below the sand. When the water reaches the hot molten volcanic magma many thousands of meters below the earth’s surface, it heats up and is sent back to the surface as hot water. Families, kids and couples dig their own spa pools in the sand and relax in the natural springs. The water temperature is up to 64 °C (147 °F). It's a strange but very pleasant feeling to be lying in a pool of hot water just meters from the refreshing sea.
Okere Falls Reserve and Lake Tikitapu - We hiked several areas within the scenic reserve (an area of natural beauty set aside for public recreation). We saw palm tree ferns that grow as tall as regular trees. The local river has significant cultural and spiritual value for the Maori tribe whose ancestral home is here. Eels live in the deep pits at the base of the waterfall here.
Lake Tikitapu is also called Blue Lake due to color caused by volcanic rocks on the lake bed. Maori legend states that in ancient times, the daughter of a chief was bathing in its crystal waters and wore a tiki (sacred greenstone neck ornament). The piece fell off while she swam and the blue waters of the lake are believed to still be hiding the tiki tapu.
Waimangu Volcanic Valley - The Waimangu Volcanic Valley is the youngest geothermal ecosystem in the world and the only geothermal system in the world created within the time of written history (the last 5,000 years). Waimangu means “black water”, named by the Maori after the geyser that hurled black sand, mud, and rocks into the air. At one point, it was the most powerful geyser in the world. Today, visitors can wander through a geothermal valley packed with geysers, hot springs, vibrant lakes, and steaming vents.
Prior to 1886, the area was rolling hills covered with scrub trees and bushes with no surface geothermal activity. In 1886, Mount Tarawera erupted, extinguishing all life in the area (plant, animal, bird). Twenty-two craters were formed by the eruption, creating a lake and many hot springs. In 1915, twenty nine years after the eruption, plants were noticed growing next to the lake. This is the only example of a New Zealand native forest that is naturally regenerating from complete devastation.
The Waimangu geyser was created as a result of the 1886 volcanic eruption, although the geyser was not active until 1900. It erupted frequently to heights up over 400 meters - about the height of a 115 story building - but was extinct by 1908. Today, a mural depicts life at a nearby hotel during the time Waimangu Geyser was at its peak - guests relaxing on the veranda, watching the steam eruptions. Smaller geysers still erupt all over the area.
The Maori traditionally used thermal mud to treat cuts and burns, believing that the fine acidic mud rejuvenates the skin and leaves less scar tissue. Starting in the 1880s, the area around Waimangu was internationally promoted as a ‘spa town’ with thermal pools and mud baths. Today, thermal mud from the area is sold for use as a cosmetic all round the world.
Te Puia - New Zealand's Māori Arts & Crafts Institute and site of many geothermal wonders. Te Puia houses the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute, established in 1926 to help revive traditional Māori arts and crafts training and thus ensure the survival of arts and crafts in Māori culture. At Te Puia, national schools of carving, weaving and other traditional arts train talented students from around New Zealand under the guidance of master craftspersons. The carver mentally prepares his mind to tell a story in the manner he perceives as best to connect with his culture, genealogy and language. Māori architecture tells Maori stories and displays their artistry. There are replicas of Maori architecture and of a double-hulled canoe like those the Māori used to migrate to New Zealand from the Pacific Islands. This vessel is 60 feet long and can hold up to 30 people, although some canoes were almost 100 feet long and could hold 100 warriors. To build a canoe the size of the 60-foot replica, a tõtara tree about 1,500-2,000 years old would be needed.
Te Puia includes impressive geothermal activity including bubbling mud pools, steaming cracks in the ground, boiling pools of mineral-rich water, and gushing geysers. There is a strong odor of rotten eggs in the area due to the high levels of sulphur in the volcanic geysers and hot pools. Sulphur is said to be a safe, non-toxic age-old remedy for every conceivable skin irritation and infection. The hot pools have also been said to assist in easing pain from arthritis, as well as general aches and pains.
Pōhutu (‘poor-hoo-too’) is the largest active geyser in the southern hemisphere. It erupts once or twice every hour and sometimes reaches heights of 30 meters (100 feet). Pōhutu means ‘constant splashing’ in Māori. About 15 years ago, Pōhutu erupted for over 250 days. It was once at grave risk of losing its power because nearby residents used bores to tap into the valley’s geothermal resources. Fortunately, a program to close bores has ensured that today, Pōhutu continues to impress visitors once or twice an hour, with eruptions lasting from a few minutes to much longer.
For hundreds of years, the many geothermal hot pools in the area allowed the Maori people to use hot water for cooking, washing, bathing and preparing flax that was used to make clothing, baskets, and other items. Today, a hot pool at Te Puia is used for a unique cooking experience where fresh ingredients are lowered into the boiling water in baskets woven from flax, just like the locals have done for centuries. In another popular Māori cooking style, a large pit is dug and hot rocks placed at the bottom. Meat and vegetables are placed in baskets, wrapped in leaves, lowered on top of the rocks and covered with soil. The geothermal heat infuses the food with a delicious flavor.
Tongariro Crossing Trek - In the U.S., we would use the word “trail” instead of “trek” or “track” like are used in New Zealand. This is a world-renowned walking path through Tongariro National Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site for its outstanding natural features and cultural values. The mountains at the heart of the park have cultural and religious significance for the Maori people and symbolize the spiritual links between this community and its environment. The hike goes through alpine terrain (areas high on mountains, especially above the “tree line” - the highest point where most trees will grow), around an active volcano, and descends into water-filled craters near the top of the mountain. This was a concern because of the White Island volcanic eruption, which occurred three weeks before we hiked Tongariro, and only 220 km away from the trail. There are views of Mount Ngauruhoe, also known as 'Mount Doom' in the Lord of the Rings trilogy. We could smell the sulphur but could not get close to the geothermal area.
Lake Taupo - The lake was formed over 26,000 years ago by the Taupo Volcano, which produced two of the world’s most violent eruptions in geologically recent times. It is New Zealand’s largest lake and is stocked with brown and rainbow trout. Lake Taupo is a “taonga” (special treasure) of a local Maori tribe. The tribe still owns the lake bed and its tributaries, and they grant the public free access for recreational use. Mount Tauhara, a dormant lava dome volcano overlooking the lake, rises to 1,088 metres (3,570 ft) above sea level.
Bridal Veil Falls - The waterfall is 55m high and has over time caused the formation of a large pool at the base of the waterfall. Viewing platforms at the top of the falls, part way down to the pool at the bottom, and at the shelter and benches poolside provide a magnificent view of the waterfall, which continually sprays the seats with mist. A sign in the shelter describes the Maori beliefs about water. Water is believed to have originated from the separation of the sky and the earth. Rain and mist personify their mutual grief at parting. Water is the promoter of all life; it represents the blood of the environment and reflects the health of the earth.
Raglan - This small beachside town is known for its surfing and volcanic black sand beaches. Raglan’s Manu Bay was featured in the 1966 movie The Endless Summer and in the 2010 movie Last Paradise. Raglan hosted a world championship surfing event at Manu Bay in 1998. The Raglan Surf Life Saving Club is part of a national association representing 74 Surf Life Saving clubs. The organization's purpose is to prevent drowning and injury, thereby saving lives. Qualified Surf Lifeguards patrol specific beaches from mid-October until April each year. Red and yellow flags indicate that a beach is patrolled by Surf Lifeguards. The area of water in between these flags is designated as the safest place to swim on the beach, as well as showing where Surf Lifeguards are patrolling. It is widely publicized that beachgoers should "Swim Between the Flags" in order to be safe while swimming in the ocean. Surf lifeguards are identifiable by their yellow shirts and red shorts.
South Island
Lake Tepako - The glaciers in the headwaters of Lake Tekapo grind rocks into a fine dust on their journey down stream towards the lake. The resulting “rock flour” is so lightweight that it stays suspended in the water instead of sinking to the lake bottom. Sunlight reflecting off of the rock flour creates the beautiful, milky turquoise color.
Statue of New Zealand Collie sheepdog - a tribute to collie dogs, which are vital in the local sheep farming community.
Church of the Good Shepherd - located on the shore of Lake Tepako, it was built in 1935 with the directive that the site be undisturbed, including the bushes on the property. The stones for the walls were to be procured from within five miles of the site and were to be unchipped and in their natural condition. The church was built firstly to the glory of God and secondly as a memorial to the pioneers of the area.
Lupines - beautiful but controversial flowers that grow mainly near Lake Tepako. They are considered invasive in New Zealand because they crowd out native plants and also add nitrogen into the soil, thus encouraging the growth of other weeds. However, some farmers are planting fields of lupine as a nutritious sheep food that needs little fertilizer and grows well in the harsh environment and soil in the area. There are many, many sheep farms in the area.
Hooker Valley Track - The Hooker Valley Track is one of New Zealand’s most popular short hikes because it gives walkers beautiful views of Mount Cook, New Zealand’s tallest mountain, and because it ends at Hooker Lake, where there are usually icebergs from the Hooker Glacier floating around.
The 10km return trail involves crossing three big swing bridges over the Hooker River, then entering the Hooker Valley with fantastic views of Mount Cook. The mountain was first named Aoraki by the Maori people to honor the most sacred of their ancestors. The English name, Mount Cook, was given to honor Captain James Cook who surveyed and circumnavigated the islands of New Zealand in 1770.
Milford Sound - A fiord (a long, narrow inlet with steep sides or cliffs, created by a glacier) that is known for its rainforests and waterfalls. Milford Sound is one of the wettest places in the world, with up to 6,412mm of rain annually. The rainfall creates dozens of temporary waterfalls (as well as two permanent waterfalls) cascading down the sheer rock cliff faces, some reaching up to 1,200 meters in length. Smaller falls from such heights may never reach the bottom of the sound, drifting away in the wind. The fiord is home to fur seal colonies, penguins, dolphins, and whales. There is a one-way tunnel on the road up to Milford Sound. Some Kea Parrots live near the tunnel. The kea is the only truly alpine parrot in the world, and in known for attacking sheep - so often that bounty hunting for keas was legal until 1971. Very curious, kea are attracted to people wherever they enter its mountain domain - hence our little friend carside while we waited our turn in the one lane tunnel. The parrot is an endangered species.
Many rocks throughout New Zealand that have rust-colored spots that are caused by thin coatings of iron oxide weathered from volcanic materials.
Franz Josef Glacier - named after Emperor Franz Joseph I, who ruled Austria and Hungary in the late 19th century. The glacier descends from the tops of New Zealand’s Southern Alps into a rainforest not far above sea level. In the last ice age, the glacier extended in a huge ice sheet to beyond the present coastline. Now, due to global warming, the glacier has retreated considerably. Markers along the trail note the edge of the glacier at several points in time. The glacier has retreated a long distance just since 2009.
Akaroa and The Giant’s House - Akaroa is a quaint seaside town that was the only French settlement in New Zealand. It has numerous 19th century cottages, houses, and other buildings that highlight its British and French colonial history. Once a fishing and farm service town, it now serves mostly tourists, with the number of permanent residents on the decline as more homes become vacation rentals. Many of the charming homes around town boast lovely gardens with flowers and shrubs I'm familiar with from the Pacific Northwest of the USA. Like many New Zealand towns of all sizes, Akaroa has a beautiful war memorial.
The Giant’s House is a historic house built in 1880 that has now been converted into a bed and breakfast. The current owner is an artist who has filled the house and terraced gardens with original art sculptures and mosaics. She spent twenty years creating a wonderland of her yard. It started with the pretty bits of broken china that she dug up while gardening; she turned the bits into a mosaic doorstep. Now there is a full-sized grand piano and a band, a sailing ship, winding paths leading to life-sized and bigger people and animals - all shaped and decorated with broken china, tile, mirror, and glass.
Christchurch - the second-most populous city in New Zealand after Auckland. It has one of the highest-quality water supplies in the world, with its water rated among the purest and cleanest in the world. Untreated, naturally filtered water comes from the foothills of the Southern Alps. The International Antarctic Centre in Christchurch is a museum and home base for American, New Zealand, and Italian Antarctic programs. The city has a lot of street art and murals professionally painted on the sides of buildings.
In February 2011, an earthquake hit the city, resulting in the death of 185 people and the collapse or severe damage of thousands of buildings across the city. By late 2013, 1,500 buildings in the city had been demolished, leading to an ongoing recovery and rebuilding project. However, many damaged buildings still stand, closed off behind chain-link fencing or mural-covered board fences.
The main cathedral in town was severely damaged, and was replaced by a cathedral made of shipping containers and reinforced cardboard. It is called the Cardboard Cathedral. There is a very moving monument of 185 different kinds of chairs lined up in a field, signifying the individuality of each person represented there. Elsewhere in the city, there are two identical statues meant to capture a moment in time in relation to the environment. One statue is in the tree-lined river where during the earthquake, the trees continued to stand and the river continued to flow. An identical statue is in paved ground near a historic building that was damaged in the quake.*