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시험볼때도 중요하지만 운행하면서 꼭 필요한 사항이니 용어를 꼭 숙지하시기 바랍니다.
동영상 파일을 첨부합니다. 동영상 파일은 외부로 유출하지 않기를 부탁드립니다.
PRE-TRIP INSPECTION
1. Front of the Tractor
I check the overall condition and underneath for fresh fluid leaks.
I check the vehicle is leaning left or right, as that would be an indication of a tire suspension problem.
I check the license is secure and current.
I check the bumper is secure.
I check turn signals, 4-way flashers, reflectors, high and low beam headlights, marker lights and clearance lights are secure, clean and operational.
I check the grill is secure-no loose, broken or missing parts and no obstructions between the grill and the radiator.
I check the windshield is clean and free of damage or obstructions, windshield wipers are in place, and the wind deflector is not cracked.
2.ON PASSENGER SIDE OF TRUCK
I check the overall condition of the side of the truck for loose, broken or missing parts.
I check the turn signal is secure, clean and operational.
I check the exhaust stack is securely mounted and no discoloration as that would indicate an exhaust leak.
I check the grab handle is secure, no loose broken or missing parts.
I check the mirror is secure, clean and properly adjusted for me, no loose, broken or missing parts.
I check the door will open and close properly.
I check the window will open and close, as this is my escape route in an emergency.
I check the overall condition of the fuel tank for damage and I look underneath for signs of a leak.
I check the crossover line, hangers, straps and gaskets are secure, no loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I visually check the fuel level matches in cab fuel gauge.
I check the cap and tank gaskets are not cracked or torn and the cap is secure.
I check the steps are secure.
3.OPEN HOOD AND MOVE TO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT
I check the horses, pipes and clamps for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the radiator is filled to the proper level and the cap and radiator apron is secure and there is no damage or leaks.
I check the fan belts are no loose, cracked, frayed. Proper fan belt adjustment is 1/2 to 3/4 inch deflection.
I check the alternator and connected wires are secure and no loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the water pump is secure and no loose, broken or missing parts or leaks. The water pump is gear driven.
I check the turbo and connecting oil lines are secure and no loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the exhaust pipe is secure and discoloration that would be indicate an exhaust leak.
I check the engine oil is the proper level and the dipstick and oil filler cap is secure.
I check the frame for damage or cracks.
I check the air dryer and the connecting lines are secure and not damage or leaking.
I check the front and rear hangers and shackles, leaf springs, U-bolts and shock absorber for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the brake airline, brake chamber, push rod and slack adjuster for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks. I can pull on the slacker adjuster to check adjustments. It must be one inch or less manually or two inches or less mechanically.
I check the brake drums for cracks and discoloration, which would be a sign of excessive heat. The brake linings must be a minimum of 1/4 inch thick.
I check the rim on both sides for cracks and broken welds.
I check the steer tire for 4/32 minimum tread depth, the inner and outer sidewalls for cracks or bulges, and the valve stem is secure and property capped. All tires must be inflated to at least 100 psi.
I check the lug nuts are secure. Rust around the lugs nuts or shiny threads are an indication that the lug nut may be loose or cross-threaded.
I check the hub oiler is secure, no leaks around the seal and at the proper level.
I would perform the same safety check on the other side of this axle
4.WALK AROUND TRUCK TO THE DRIVERS SIDE ENGINE COMPARTMENT
I check the horses, pipes and clamps for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the wiring harness is secure and there are not frayed or damaged wires.
I check the radiator apron is secure and no loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the air compressor and air compressor governor are secure and no loose, broken or missing parts or leaks. The air compressor is gear driven.
I check the frame for damage or cracks.
I check the power steering reservoir, cap and horses are secure and no leaks. The power steering fluid must be at the required level. Power Steering Pump is gear driven.
I check the steering rod, gearbox, pitman arm, drag link, steering knuckles, castle nuts, tie rod and tie rod ends for loose, broken or missing parts.
Close the hood.
5.MOVE TO TRACTOR CAB DRIVER'S SIDE
I check the overall condition of the side of the truck for loose, broken or missing parts.
I check the turn signal, grab handles, side box is for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks. The side box must be locked.
I check the door mirror is secure, clean and properly adjusted for me. No loose, broken or missing parts.
I check the door will open and close, and window rolls up and down, as this is my escape route in an emergency.
I check the overall condition of the fuel tank for damage and I look underneath for signs of a leak.
I check the cross over line, hangers, straps and gaskets are secure and no loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I visually check the fuel level matches the gauge in the cab.
I check the cap and tank gaskets are not cracked or torn and the cap is secure.
I check the steps are secure.
I check the battery box is secure with no leaks underneath. Batteries are checked periodically.
6.MOVE TO THE BACK OF THE TRACTOR
I check the overall condition of the back of the tractor for loose, broken or missing parts.
I check the exhaust system is secure and no discoloration that would indicate an exhaust leak.
I check the grab handles, steps and catwalk are secure for loose, broken or missing parts.
I check the electrical line and air lines are hung properly and not damaged or leaking.
I check the utility light is secure, clean and operational.
I check the glad hand grommet for cracks, tears or leaks. The glad hands and pigtail must be in the locked position.
I check the two air tanks are secure and not leaking and all tanks are drained daily.
I check the two drive lines, two differentials and the 4 U-joints for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the frame, cross members, fifth wheel, fifth wheel slider line, fifth wheel slider plate, slider plate platform, and mounting bolts for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the release arm and the slider lock pin are in the proper position and the safety latch.
I check my apron and fifth wheel for any daylight or damage.
I check the front and rear hangers, leaf springs, u-bolts, shock absorber and air bags, torque rod, bushings for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the brake airline, brake chamber, push rod and slack adjuster for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks. I can pull on the slack adjuster to check adjustment. It must be one inch or less manually or two inches or less mechanically.
I check the brake drums for cracks and discoloration, which would be a sign of excessive heat. The brake linings must be a minimum of 1/4 inch thick.
I check the bud-rims on both sides for cracks or broken welds. There cannot be any gap between bud-rims.
I check the tires for 2/32 minimum tread depth, the inner and outer sidewalls for cracks or bulges, and the valve stem are secure and properly capped. There cannot be any material lodged between the dual tires or rims. All tires must be inflated to at least 100 psi.
I check the lug nuts are secure. Rust around the lug nuts or shiny threads are an indication the lug nut may be loose or cross-threaded.
I check the axle cap is secure, no leaks around the seal.
I would perform the same safety check on the other side of this axle and on both sides of the rear axle
7.FRONT OF TRAILER
I check the header board for damage.
I check the splash guards are secured and no loose, broken or missing parts.
I check the clearance lights are secure and operational.
8. SIDE OF TRAILER
I check the overall condition of the trailer for damaged. The marker lights, reflectors and DOT tape must be secure, clean and operational.
9.MOVE TO THE REAR AND UNDERNEATH THE TRACTOR
I check the jaw is securely locked around the shank of kingpin and the kingpin is not damaged or bent.
I check the splash guards on both sides are secure and not damaged.
I check the turn signals, backup lights, reflectors, brake lights, running lights and 4-way flashers are clean and secure and operational.
10.UNDER THE TRAILER
I check the landing gear frame, cross members, crank rod, struts and pads for loose, broken or missing parts. The crank handle must be locked position.
I check the trailers cross members and the floor boards for loose, broken or missing parts. All air lines and electrical lines must be properly hung and no damage.
I check the spare tire hanger for loose, broken or missing parts.
I check the brake air lines properly hung. There are no cracks or leaks.
I check the trailer sliding sub-frame for loose, broken or missing parts and the locking pins and the release handle must be in the locked position.
I check the front and rear hangers, leaf springs, U-bolts, torsion rod and bushing for loose, broken or missing parts or leaks.
I check the brake airline, brake chamber, push rod and slack adjuster for loose, broken or missing parts. I can pull on the slack adjuster to check adjustment. It must be one inch or less manually or two inches or less mechanically.
I check the brake drums for cracks and for discoloration, which would be a sign of excessive heat. The brake lining must be a minimum of 1/4 inch thick.
I check the bud-rims on both sides for cracks or broken welds. There cannot be any gap between bud-rims.
I check the tires for 2/32 minimum tread depth, the inner and outer sidewalls for cracks or bulges, and the valve stem are secure and properly capped. There cannot be any material lodged between the dual tires or rims. All tires must be inflated to at least 100 psi.
I check the lug nuts are secure. Rust around the lug-nuts or shiny treads are an indication the lug nut may be loose or cross-threaded.
I check the hub oiler is secure, no leaks around the seal and at the proper level.
I would perform the same safety check on the other side of this axle and on both sides of the rear axle.
11.MOVE TO THE REAR OF THE TRAILER
I check the mud flaps on both sides are secure and not damaged.
I check the DOT bumper is secure.
I check the license plate is secure and current.
I check the tail lights, turn signals, 4-ways flasher, brake lights, marker lights, clearance lights and DOT tape are clean, secure and operational.
I check the door is secure and operational.
I check for the proper hazmat placards on all four sides of the trailer, if required.
This completes my pre trip walk around, Now, I would like to do the in cab inspection.
12. PTI in cab
I check the safety equipment.
I have seat belt and it works.
I have the fire extinguisher it is all recharged pin in.
I have my three reflector triangles. There are under the bunk.
I have my spare fuses. There are in the panel.
I check all of my glass I make sure clean and no cracks or obstructions. The wipers are making full contact with the glass and the both side mirrors are properly adjusted for me.
Now I start to check my dials and gauges.
This is engine temperature gauge. It tells me the temperature of the coolant in the engine.
This is oil pressure gauge. It tells me the pressure of the oil in the engine.
This is the warning indicator panel. It tells me anything wrong to engine.
This is the Applied Air Pressure gauge. It tells me how much air pressure applied to the service brake system.
This is the two Air pressure gauges. It tells me the amount of Air in the two air tanks.
This is the engine brake. It helps slow down truck going to downhill.
This is my Inter-Axle Differential lock switch. It locks in my second axle to get me unstuck.
This is Fifth Wheel lock Switch. It is the Fifth Wheel Slider pins. This switch must be in locked position.
This is my cruise control. This is the tractor and trailer air supply valves.
This is the voltmeter. It tells me the condition of the batteries.
This is the fuel gauge. It tells me how much fuel is in the fuel tanks.
This is the speedometer. It tells me how fast I am going.
This is the park brake indicator and the trailer anti-lock braking indicator and the wheel spin indicator.
This is the rpm gauge. It tells me the revolution per one minute of the engine.
This is the ignition key and engine start button.
This is the engine override check switch. This switch is override computer in case of emergency.
This is the mirror heater switch. Heat the mirrors in the winter.
This is the boost battery switch and utility light switch.
This is the panel dimmer switch. It is brightened panel light.
This is the lights switch. This switch all the way down only my trailer lights parking lights on.
This is interrupt switch. It is the courtesy switch for flash the trailer light.
This is the wiper washer, and they works.
This is my mirror power switch. It moves my mirror to adjust for me.
This is the Heater and Defroster. They work.
This is the stick shifter and it moves freely. This is the High and Low range Splitter.
This is the Clutch pedal. This is Service foot valve or Brake pedal.
This is the Throttle pedal or Fuel pedal.
This is steering wheel. It is no more than 2 inches or 10 degree of play on 20 inch wheel.
This is the City horn and Emergency horn.
I check the left turn signal and right turn signal and high beam low beam and 4way flasher.
Next, I check the brakes test. (SPALE: Service-Practical-Apply-Low air-Emergency)
The first test is the service brake test. I pull ahead about 5mph then I apply my service brake and stop.
I check the vehicle both side or noise that it stops when brake is applied.
Now, I check the Practical brake test.
Release trailer brake then set tractor brake and I’m going to put in the gear and slightly start. They hold.
Release tractor brake then set trailer brake and I’m going to put in the gear and slightly start. They hold.
Now, I check the Apply Brake Test.
Engine OFF/key back ON / wheels chock/both valve releases. Apply 25pounds my foot brake and hold it for 60 second. I check the air gauge to see if the air pressure drops more than 4psi in 60 second.
I lost 0 psi so my apply brake test is GOOD.
Next, I check the Low Air warning Device test.
The low air warning device comes on air pressure should be 60 psi. Now, I pump the brake.
My Air warning device comes on 60 psi. That’s means my Low Air Warning Device test is good.
Finally test is Emergency brake Test.
My trailer tractor air supply valves pop out it should be between 20-40 psi air pressures.
My tractor and trailer valves pop out at about 30 psi. It is good.
The tractor trailer protection valves and parking brake valves should closed.
This conclusion of the Brake Test is good. Thank you.
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