ㅡ 안내 등반 회사의 Mt. Cook 안내

[곽노성(샛별)]

https://queenstownmountainguides.co.nz

마운틴 쿡 안내 등반은 6일 소요.

비교적 낮은 높이의 산이지만, 경사있고, 빙하가 크고(길고:heavi), 기술등반을 필요한

힘든 만만치 않은 도전의 산의로,

많은 고산 경험과 튼튼한 체력을 요구한다.

정상 도전하는 날에는 13시간 - 18시간을 소요하며 수직으로  1800m를 올라야 한다.

( 노성 경우, 20시간 이상을 소요할지도 ? ) 

최근의 온난화로 낙석, 낙빙과 크레바스 추락 위험이 높아져서, 더욱 도전하기 어려운 등반이 되었다. 

마운틴 쿡 등반은 10월부터 12월 중순까지이다.

마운틴 쿡 6일 가이드 등반은 해발 2200m의 Plateau Hut을 베이스 캠프로 한다.

소위 노말 루트로는 뉴질랜드 등반 난이도( 등급 ) 3등급인  Linda Glacier가 있으며,

경험 많은 또는 좀더 도전적인 산악인을 위한 다른 루트들도 있다..

6일 : 고소적응, 환경 적응, 날씨 창 선택( 훈련 후 좋은 날씨 선택 : weather window  ) 

정상공격 : 통상 새벽 1시에 출발하여서, 9시경 정상에 도착하는 것을 목표로 하며,

                 운이 좋으면, 대피소를 떠나서 Mt. Cook 공항으로 탈출할 수도 있다.

6 day guided climbing expedition to Mt Cook 3724m, New Zealand’s highest mountain. Mt Cook is a prized international summit and world class mountaineering objective with many climbers coming from all over the world to attempt the climb. Despite the modest altitude compared to many other mountains around the world, Mt Cook is a steep heavily glaciated mountain, technical climb, and a formidable challenge. 

Guided ascents of Mt Cook are only available to clients who have previously climbed with Queenstown Mountain Guides. For safety reasons and to maximise the chance of success climbing Mt Cook by the Linda Glacier requires extensive previous mountaineering experience and a high level of fitness. Please see the experience required section below for more details.

Due to climate change and glacial recession Mt Cook has become more challenging to climb and has a higher level of risk from rockfall, icefall, and crevasse fall hazard. Because of the high risks and objective hazard Mt Cook can only be climbed when conditions are perfect. If the guide decides that conditions are not appropriate for an attempt at Mt Cook the guide will discuss with the client alternative mountaineering objectives for the 6 day expedition.

A typical climbing day on Mt Cook is between 13 and 18 hours, with a vertical height gain of 1800m. The typical climbing route is the Linda Glacier New Zealand alpine grade 3 but other route options are possible for more experienced clients including Zurbriggins Ridge, the East Ridge, and a Grand Traverse across Low Peak, Middle Peak, and High Peak.

The 6 day trip is based from Plateau Hut at 2200m. The length of the trip allows enough time for access and egress from the mountains, skills training, possibly climbing a training peak, and weather contingency days.

Mt Cook is a very serious climb that should not be underestimated. Mt Cook is a heavily glaciated peak with objective danger that can only be managed safely when the conditions and weather are good on the mountain. The minimum length of a Mt Cook trip is 6 days, this gives us enough time to maximise the chance of success and pick safe weather & conditions on this expedition style mountain.

The Mt Cook season is normally from October through to mid December. In a good year, the season may extend beyond mid December. However, we recommend that clients book their Mt Cook climb before mid December because in recent seasons, the route on the lower Linda Glacier has become unsafe to pass after late December.

Why climb Mt Cook with Queenstown Mountain Guides? Queenstown Mountain Guides are Queenstown’s only professionally qualified IFMGA Mountain & Ski Guiding operation. We have years of experience working on Mt Cook and an impressive history of safety and successful guided ascents on the mountain. 

Summit Days! Normally we depart the hut at 1.00am under the cover of darkness. The goal is to reach the summit by 9.00am.