Jennifer Suhr
Filmmaker (영화감독)
How North Korea Surprised Me
Posted: 07/11/2013 7:20 am
My mother's family came from the town of Sinuiju in North Korea, although this is a fact rarely spoken of within my family. My great aunt has been the only one eager to talk about it and through her, I learned that she was the last from her family to cross the border between North and South Korea at the age of 14.
Much of what I had read and heard prior about tourism in North Korea was true of my experience: you are not permitted to explore the city without the presence of your guides and every destination and stop on the tour is highly choreographed and controlled. Many stops on a typical tour could easily be tossed aside as more North Korean propaganda: monuments to the great leaders, an idyllic collective farm, impeccably maintained nurseries, showcases of astoundingly talented children.
Yet, North Korea and its people did reveal itself in ways beyond what was being displayed. My relationship with the guides especially went further than I was led to believe was possible. Instead of watchful, policing "minders," our three guides were gracious, friendly, and kind citizens who drank with us, shared stories of their personal lives, and toasted to meeting us again upon Korea's reunification. U, 19, the student guide shadowing our trip, told us about her favorite movie (The Sound of Music), hobbies (playing piano with her friends), and traded tablets with us. She had already played Angry Birds on her "iPad." K, a male senior official at the KITC (Korean International Travel Company) helped me to improve my ping pong technique and was integral to elucidating any further questions we had about North Korea, from where they get their bicycles to current farming techniques. The head female guide, S, 27, shared with me the difficulties of dating in Pyongyang ("I just want someone tall and open minded"), gave my boyfriend unsolicited advice about how to treat a lady, and helped to translate whenever my Korean failed me in conversations with other citizens we met.
Through spontaneous encounters, interactions, sights, and conversations, other sides of North Korea were rendered. If you were willing to take them, there were opportunities to talk to, to interact, to look beyond what is already known about North Korea.
As much as the official script wanted to show a vision of control and strength, humanity is bound to slip in when the power goes out in the amusement park or a child takes a small tumble during his class presentation. The teacher laughed with us.
Much of North Korea remains a mystery, but it feels less opaque and more penetrable than it was before. I know that I want to go back.
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/jennifer-suhr/how-north-korea-surprised_b_3561367.html#next_slideshow
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