ㅡ등반회사 안내 글 2

[곽노성(샛별)]

https://adventureconsultants.com/guided-ascents/new-zealand-ascents/aoraki-mount-cook

Fitness( 체력, 지구력 )

8Kg 배낭을 메고,

수직 1000m  산세를 3.5시간 안에 올ㄹ수 있어야 한다.

최근 경험 

ㅡ 최근 2년안에 14일 이상 크램폰 생활 

ㅡ 아이스 엑스로  50도 경사의 빙설 등반 경험

ㅡ 최근 2년 안에 몇번의 12시간 이상( 뉴질랜드 알파인 등반 등급 2+ ) 등반 경험

ㅡ 빙하 통과( 종주 ) 경험과 능숙한  크레바스 추락 구조 시범 능력

ㅡ 암벽등반 : 요세미티 5.7 이상 

위험 

린다 빙하는 기술적으로 어렵지 않지만, 눈사태, 낙빙, 낙석 위험이 도사리고 있다..

위험을 최소화 할뿐, 없앨수는 없다.

12월부터는 크레바스가 심해져서 도저히 통과할수 없는 경우가 많아진다.

루트 

Linda Glacier and North-East Ridge 루트를 80%( 하산은 90%이상 ) 이용한다. 

린다 빙하는 비교적 경사가 급하지 않다.

린다 방하 끝머리에서 란다 선반( shelf ) 셀프까지는 Mt Silberhorn 빙벽에서의 낙빙 위험, 

뱅쿠버 산에서의 낙석이 위험하다.

( 다음에 )

A very high level of aerobic fitness is required for Aoraki Mount Cook. You must be able to climb 1,000 vertical metres with an 8 kg backpack in 3.5 hours or less.

Technical Experience

A successful ascent of Aoraki requires proven climbing proficiency, excellent physical fitness, and recent alpine experience. Only return guests are accepted.

• Currency - at least 14 days on crampons within the last 2 years
• Proven experience climbing with 2 tools on 45 to 50 degrees snow and ice
• Proven experience of several 12+ hour days on alpine ascents (NZ alpine 2+) or equivalent - within the last 2 years
• Glacier travel experience and the ability to competently demonstrate a crevasse rescue system
• Rock climbing competence - climbing to Australian 14/US 5.7

Hazards

Mountaineering on the Aoraki Mount Cook massif is a hazardous activity. Although technically the “easiest” route on Aoraki Mount Cook, the Linda Glacier has a relatively high level of objective hazard (a natural hazard that we cannot control, only minimise). The route is exposed in numerous places to avalanches, rockfall, and ice-fall danger from above.

It is essential that your fitness, ability, and conditions allow you and your guide to move quickly through these hazardous zones.

The guide’s primary concern is always for safety. Your guide’s appraisal of your competence and route conditions will determine whether the climb can be attempted, or an alternative ascent is considered instead.

From December onwards, the route can become heavily crevassed, before eventually becoming impassable. Crevassing may slow travel through areas threatened by ice avalanches, and can be unacceptable from a safe guiding perspective.

Fitness

A very high level of aerobic fitness is required for Aoraki Mount Cook. You must be able to climb 1,000 vertical metres with an 8 kg backpack in 3.5 hours or less.

Technical Experience

A successful ascent of Aoraki requires proven climbing proficiency, excellent physical fitness, and recent alpine experience. Only return guests are accepted.

• Currency - at least 14 days on crampons within the last 2 years
• Proven experience climbing with 2 tools on 45 to 50 degrees snow and ice
• Proven experience of several 12+ hour days on alpine ascents (NZ alpine 2+) or equivalent - within the last 2 years
• Glacier travel experience and the ability to competently demonstrate a crevasse rescue system
• Rock climbing competence - climbing to Australian 14/US 5.7

Climbing Routes

The most commonly guided route is the Linda Glacier and North-East Ridge from Plateau Hut. This is a long and serious climb, usually taking 15-18 hours, return. The height gain is approximately 1,700m/5,500 ft from Plateau Hut.

Probably around 80% of all ascents (and 90% of descents), both guided and recreational, use the Linda Glacier route. The Linda Glacier is the most straightforward route and offers the best chance to reach the high peak. The Linda Glacier route is always challenging, and not to be underestimated.

The Linda Glacier is relatively low-angled. Up to the Linda Shelf, there is an objective hazard from ice cliffs on Mt Silberhorn and rockfall off Mount Vancouver. A steady and efficient pace must be maintained to minimise risk.

To reach the Linda Shelf the “Gun Barrels” must be traversed, and on the shelf itself, the “Mini Gun Barrels” crossed. Both areas are subject to danger from falling ice debris. Steady, rapid movement is required in these places.

You will normally be moving together with your guide until the Linda Shelf steepens. The last 50 to 100 metres is pitched climbing, on 40° to 45° ice up to the base of the Summit Rocks. We try to be at this point just after dawn.

The Summit Rocks are normally iced up but can be a rock climbed in the mid-late season, or in dry conditions. Three or 4 pitches are belayed to the summit ice cap.

Conditions on the ice cap vary, from soft snow/ice to solid “boilerplate” ice. This section to the summit can be time-consuming, and always requires concentration and care. Usually, it is only necessary to belay short sections.

After 8-10 hours of climbing the view is indescribable, stretching for hundreds of kilometres up and down the Alps, to the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean.

The descent (by the same route) usually takes 7-10 hours. The descent requires concentration and good crampon technique down the ice cap. Your guide will lower you through the Summit Rocks.

Speed through the Gun Barrel section is essential, as warmer temperatures will soften the snow, increasing the risk of avalanches and rockfall.