에어바리콘 자작안내 사이트 입니다.

[페르미온]

기회가 되면 꼭 한번 만들어 보고 싶습니다. ^^

This layout was drawn with Cadvance 6.5b, a free program available at www.cadvance.com

One major advantage to using flashing is the ease with which you can work it. It can be easlily cut with a good pair of utilty scissors. Do NOT use your XYL's favorite dress shears for this!

When making your plates, lay out one of each, cut them out, and then use them as templates to layout the rest. Here are the plates, all cut out. Since no one is perfect, make sure you mark an index on each plate as you cut it out. This will insure proper alignment when you assemble the device.

Drill the endplates. It is a good idea to drill both together so the holes will match front and back. To make the contact plate for the rotor, cut a strip of flashing long enough to cover the rotor shaft hole on both sides. After bending the strip over the endplate, drill a small hole to accommodate a 1" 6-32 brass screw.

Next, drill the shaft holes in the rotor plates. Again, in order to insure the uniformity of the parts, you should drill all the holes at once. I used scrap Lexan to hold the plates in the jaws of a Vice-Grip. Dimple the top plate of the stack at the center of the hole. It is a good idea to drill a small pilot hole before drilling the 1/4" hole.

Now, take a rotor plate and a stator plate and tape them together in full mesh. Make sure the shaft tab on the rotor plate is properly aligned with the cut out in the stator plate.

Align the shaft hole in the endplate with the shaft hole in the rotor plate and square the endplate over the parts to be marked. I used a carbide tip scribe for marking, but any sharp pointed object could be used. In a pinch, you could use the point on your pencil compass for marking.

Separate the rotor and stator plates you just marked. Stack all of the stator plates together insuring that the rotor tab cutout matches and tape them. This will keep them from slipping when you clamp them for drilling.

Cut the all-thread for the stator rails. For a 220pf capacitor of 12 plates, 4-1/2" is adequate. Mount these in the back end plate, leaving 3/8" to 1/2" beyond the outside nut. Secure them to the inside using 2 nuts per rail to leave adequate space for the rotor.

Begin mounting the stator plates. First flatten them as much as possible, removing the bows, twists, and curls. Make sure they are properly aligned. This is where the index marks you put on the plates come in handy.

As you mount the plates, tighten the nuts finger tight - do NOT use a wrench. Excess torque will deform the plates, making alignment extremely difficult. Look for a bowing in the plate. Either the plate was not flat, or the nuts are too tight. Correct this now before proceeding to the next plate.

Once the stator is assembled, assemble the rotor, again flattening the plates as much as possible. The shaft should be cut an 1-1/2" to 2" longer than the stator rails. Use a stop nut as the last nut in the rotor assembly,and then a regular nut.

This will hold the regular nut allowing you to torque the first plate into position, and will later be used to adjust the turn tension. Assembly of the rotor will require a wrench. As illustrated, use some kind of spacer to tighten the plates against. This will insure that the plates remain level and allow you to torque the nuts fairly tightly.

   

Now you are ready for final assembly. Hold the completed rotor in a full unmesh position and insert the shaft into the back endplate using 2 Teflon or Nylon washers on either side of the plate at the rotor shaft. You may need to add a washer to each side of the stator to allow space. Secure the rotor with a stop nut . Rotate the rotor to full mesh and install the front plate. Secure the plate with regular nuts on the stator. Place a flat washer, the compression spring, and another flat washer on the rotor shaft. Secure these with a stop nut. Tighten the stop nut till the spring compresses, tensioning the rotor shaft. Now tighten the stop nut on the other end of the rotor to center the rotor plates in the stator. Judge proper centering at the shaft.

It is possible that you find the rotor turns too freely to suit you. You can adjust turns tension by tightening the inside stop nut on the rotor shaft against the backplate to provide a more pleasing tension. Likely, you will need to adjust the rotor plates. This is accomplished using a small screwdriver to slightly bend the plates at the shaft. Be gentle, a little at the shaft translates to a large movement at the outer radius. If you have developed a slight bow in a stator plate, use the screwdriver in the same manner at the nuts on the stator rail. Only as a last resort should you attempt to adjust the capacitor with needle nosed pliers.

Now your capacitor is complete and ready for your project!

[페르미온]

어떤 사이트였는지 기억은 잘 나지 않지만, 어떤 분이 공시디에 알루미늄박을 씌워 공시디 여러개를 열결하여 에어바리콘을 만든 것을 본 기억이 납니다. 어제 수업시간에 유고문님이 하사해 주신 대용량 콘덴서 3개를 분해하여 두개의 긴 금속판(짙은회색)과 기름같은 성분이 묻은 갈색종이를 보여주었습니다. 마치 담배를 피우고 난 뒤에 필터색깔. 제 키(170cm) 보다 훨씬 더 긴 금속판이 나올때 아이들이 탄성을 지르더라구요. 그런데...문제는 역한 냄새가 절연종이로 부터 흘러나왔습니다. 저는 역한 냄새로 속이 울렁거렸습니다. 전해콘덴서의 전열지에 사용된 기름성분(아니면 화학약품?)이 뭔지 모르겠습니다.

[bigbrother]

위의 사이트는 검색하여 보시면 이미 카페글에 있습니다.

[페르미온]

기왕 분해하는 김에 마일러콘덴서와 세라믹콘덴서도 학생들 앞에서 분해해 보았는데, 세라믹 콘덴서는 형태를 알수 없게 가루로 변하여 구조를 알 수 없었고, 마일러 콘덴서는 단단한 금속이 잘라지지 않아 역시 분해에 실패했습니다.

[bigbrother]

콘덴서 절연유는 유해한 성분을 사용하지 못하도록 되어있지만, 인체에 직접 증기흡인하는것은 아무튼 좋지 않은 것 입니다.( 일부는 유해성분이 있을 수 도 있습니다.)