Height: 77" Width: 22" Depth: 31" Cutting Table: 20" x 21" 3/4" thick aluminum plate covered with 1/2" plywood. Motor: 1 1/2 Hp 110 VAC Blade Length: 130" Blade Speed 2400 FPM Weight: Heavy Work light: 15 watt florescent dual tube Frame: Welded steel Exterior: 1/2" Sanded / Sealed / Painted plywood Colors: Rust-oleum Hammered finish ( dark green & dark bronze )
Upper 18" HDPE ( Plastic )wheel. I found the pair of wheels at a local scrap yard and don't have any idea what they were originally for. The wheels had an automotive type hub / wheel bearing assembly already mounted.
Lower 18" wheel. Rides on a fixed 1" shaft supported by two sealed ball bearings.
Front
18" HDPE ( Plastic ) wheel found at local scrap yard.
Steel hub with 2 roller bearings I removed the automotive type tapered bearings and bored the id of the hub to accept two 1" id sealed bearings.
The orange around the wheels are Urethane Band Saw Tires from Suffolk Machinery
Built in fluorescent 15 watt light
Blade tensioning system.
As the lever at the rear of the saw is turned it raises or lowers the long bolt that in turn raises and lowers the upper wheel.
Top Axle
Tensioning handle on top of saw
Blade is tensioned here. The lever pressed Tension is released here. The saw will not start. against a small micro switch and allow the saw to run. The micro switch is from the door of a dishwasher.
The blade guide design was copied from my 4 x 6 metal cutting bandsaw. The bearing studs are on a cam so the bearings can be adjusted for blade thickness.
Lower bearing assembly
This is looking into the rear of the saw. The saw sits on 4 rubber wheels. The motor is 1 1/2 HP.
Bandsaw Tensioning / Shaft Details
View with the top wheel removed
Another view with the top wheel removed
Blade tensioning mech. in the raised position The 3/8" threaded rod raises the axle plate (not visible here) The plate pictured here does not move and is welded to the frame.
Halfway position
Lowest position ( Blade tension is released )
The four outside 3/8" bolts have lock nuts. The bolts fit loose to allow the axle backing plate to slide up and down. There are slots that these bolts ride in seen in the next picture. The 3 holes for the axle plate are not threaded.
Back view of the axle backing plate. The 3 bolts in the center are for adjusting roll and yaw. At the very top of the picture is where the 3/8" threaded rod is attached to the axle backing plate. This threaded rod is what lowers and raises the upper wheel.
The upper axle is welded to a piece of 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/2" thick steel plate. It's hard to tell but the axle protrudes through the steel plate approx. 1/16" . The plate has 3 threaded holes that when tightened can adjust the roll and yaw.
The upper axle. You will notice that it does not sit flat on the table.
My upper wheel has two sealed roller ball bearings that fit over the shaft.
Axle backing plate. Moves up and down to tension the blade.
Height: 77" Width: 22" Depth: 31" Cutting Table: 20" x 21" 3/4" thick aluminum plate covered with 1/2" plywood. Motor: 1 1/2 Hp 110 VAC Blade Length: 130" Blade Speed 2400 FPM Weight: Heavy Work light: 15 watt florescent dual tube Frame: Welded steel Exterior: 1/2" Sanded / Sealed / Painted plywood Colors: Rust-oleum Hammered finish ( dark green & dark bronze )
Upper 18" HDPE ( Plastic )wheel. I found the pair of wheels at a local scrap yard and don't have any idea what they were originally for. The wheels had an automotive type hub / wheel bearing assembly already mounted.
Lower 18" wheel. Rides on a fixed 1" shaft supported by two sealed ball bearings.
Front
18" HDPE ( Plastic ) wheel found at local scrap yard.
Steel hub with 2 roller bearings I removed the automotive type tapered bearings and bored the id of the hub to accept two 1" id sealed bearings.
The orange around the wheels are Urethane Band Saw Tires from Suffolk Machinery
Built in fluorescent 15 watt light
Blade tensioning system.
As the lever at the rear of the saw is turned it raises or lowers the long bolt that in turn raises and lowers the upper wheel.
Top Axle
Tensioning handle on top of saw
Blade is tensioned here. The lever pressed Tension is released here. The saw will not start. against a small micro switch and allow the saw to run. The micro switch is from the door of a dishwasher.
The blade guide design was copied from my 4 x 6 metal cutting bandsaw. The bearing studs are on a cam so the bearings can be adjusted for blade thickness.
Lower bearing assembly
This is looking into the rear of the saw. The saw sits on 4 rubber wheels. The motor is 1 1/2 HP.
Bandsaw Tensioning / Shaft Details
View with the top wheel removed
Another view with the top wheel removed
Blade tensioning mech. in the raised position The 3/8" threaded rod raises the axle plate (not visible here) The plate pictured here does not move and is welded to the frame.
Halfway position
Lowest position ( Blade tension is released )
The four outside 3/8" bolts have lock nuts. The bolts fit loose to allow the axle backing plate to slide up and down. There are slots that these bolts ride in seen in the next picture. The 3 holes for the axle plate are not threaded.
Back view of the axle backing plate. The 3 bolts in the center are for adjusting roll and yaw. At the very top of the picture is where the 3/8" threaded rod is attached to the axle backing plate. This threaded rod is what lowers and raises the upper wheel.
The upper axle is welded to a piece of 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 1/2" thick steel plate. It's hard to tell but the axle protrudes through the steel plate approx. 1/16" . The plate has 3 threaded holes that when tightened can adjust the roll and yaw.
The upper axle. You will notice that it does not sit flat on the table.
My upper wheel has two sealed roller ball bearings that fit over the shaft.
Axle backing plate. Moves up and down to tension the blade.