천둥번개에 대처하기 필수!!

[Ropemate]

시간이 없어서 번역을 못했습니다. ^^;;;

작년 버가부 등반시 만난 천둥번개에 십년감수했습니다. 어쩌면 록키를 등반하는 클라이머들에게는

항상 따라다니는 위험이기도 하니 꼭 대처요령을 필독하시기 바랍니다!!

Lightning aversion — avoiding the big shock

As you lead out from the belay on the last pitch of the Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park, you notice a menacing, inky black cloud clawing its way over the 13,500-foot summit. With no place to go but up, you silently curse yourself for not getting a proper alpine start to avoid the inevitable afternoon thunderheads.
Lightning-related accidents kill approximately 200 people each year. Those who spend their time in high, exposed terrain are at a greater risk — especially climbers and mountaineers carrying metal gear. With a basic understanding of lightning-related dangers, you can become adept at managing this potentially deadly hazard.
Start smart. Bone up on local knowledge about the weather patterns of your destination and take note of the time that cumulonimbus clouds (the dark, anvil-headed demons that sprout lightning) develop. Place your camp in a location that minimizes your exposure, and plan an itinerary that allows you to be through high-risk zones, such as peaks and high passes, early in the day. On your ascent, note possible escape routes, constantly watch for building weather, and set a turn-around time to ensure safe retreat.
Sniff out the strike. Signs of imminent strike include a crackling noise in the air, a burning odor in the air, your hair standing on end, and metal objects emitting a bluish glow known as St. Elmo’s Fire. If you see any of these signs or if the “flash-to-crash” interval (the time between lightning and thunder) is 15 seconds or less — indicating a strike fewer than three miles away — leave the area immediately.
Seek safe terrain. Stay focused and brainstorm a plan for retreating or getting to a safe place on the route. Don’t think twice about leaving gear behind for a bomber anchor and rapping to safety. Look for large ledges where you can unrope and ditch your climbing rack. When possible seek lower, protected terrain such as a talus field or an area of small trees amidst larger ones. Ground currents tend to follow the path of least resistance, so avoid wet, lichen-covered rock; drainages; standing directly under tall trees; water-filled cracks; shallow caves; and being connected to wet ropes and metal climbing gear.
Assume the position. If you are pinned down by a sudden storm, try first to get off of the route. If that isn’t possible, seek out a ledge and squat or sit (but do not lie down) on some sort of insulative material such as a sleeping pad, rope, or pack (without metal framing), and keep your hands off the ground and apart from each other. This will decrease the chance of your body becoming a conductor and protect your vital organs from having an electrical current pass through them. When possible, spread out members of your party by at least 15 feet; if one person is struck, the others will have a chance to resuscitate him or her. Put on your rain gear to protect yourself from hypothermia and stay in the protective position until the flash-to-crash duration increases, indicating that the storm is retreating.
Be ready for the worst. If someone is struck, the most significant danger is cardiopulmonary arrest. A victim’s airway, breathing, and circulation should be assessed immediately. Know CPR and institute it if necessary, then get the victim to a medical facility ASAP for eval‎uation.

A few simple steps can be your key to avoiding a ride on the lightning express.

[이삿갓]

가끔은 무식한것도 덕보나 봅니다. 이제껏 산행시 이런것 몰라서 전혀 걱정안하고 높은데 막 올라갔는데 참 알고나니 신경 안쓸수 없구....

[Ropemate]

ㅎㅎㅎ 그렇다고 너무 걱정하지는 마세요!!!! ^^;;;

[白雪鬼 朴相均]

35년전 제가 서로 믿고 의지했던 바위 파트너를 이넘의 벼락에 잃었습니다. 알프스 등반에서 생겼던 일이지요... Base Camp에 있다가 제대로 맞았습니다. 산행에선 처음도 마지막도 안전입니다. 내겐 영원히 오지 않을것 같은 불행... 알고보면 그 불행의 씨앗은 본인들이 만든것 이라고 생각합니다.

[Ropemate]

얼마나 가슴이 아프셨겠습니까? 서로 의지할수 있는 클라이밍 파트너를 얻기가 얼마나 힘든데 ... 안전수칙에는 절대복종!