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It happens every year. Autumn gets going and the delicate fruits of summer fade out, making way for their deeper, moodier relatives. Farm stands now fill with cranberries and pears, figs and persimmons, Concord grapes and the pomegranates of Greek myths.

Like the season itself, fall fruits carry a note of complexity that requires a little bit more thought than end-of-summer peaches. Of course, the apple pie is not going anywhere, but many autumnal offerings, especially the tart and tangy ones, thrive in crossover roles. In kitchens like Berkeley, Calif.'s Chez Panisse, fall fruits make cameos in soups, salads and meat dishes. "It's not a new idea," said the restaurant's chef, David Tanis, "but it is a good idea."

Mr. Tanis particularly likes the fruits of fall for the subtle sweetness they add to savory components in a dish. In his hands, the "texture and the sweetness" of fall fruits serve as a substitute for now bygone tomatoes in salads, pears balance the salt and creaminess of prosciutto, and apples that are simply sautéed in nutty brown butter pair perfectly with the richness of roasted pork or grilled lamb.

Vegetarian-cookbook author Deborah Madison finds fall fruits work as a counterpoint to the salt and cream in cheeses and add a subtle sweetness to soups such as carrot. "You get the fruit and its acidity," she said. "It's a little unexpected. It's a surprise."

Apple Cheddar Cornbread

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine 1/3 cup of cornmeal, ¾ cup of all-purpose flour, ½ tablespoon of baking powder, ½ teaspoon of baking soda, ½ teaspoon of salt, 1½ tablespoons of sugar, 1½ tablespoons of packed light brown sugar, 1/3 cup of buttermilk, 1 egg, 2 teaspoons of honey, 3 teaspoons of melted butter, ½ an onion thinly sliced and one cubed sweet apple. Grease a skillet with butter, fill with batter and top with a small handful of grated cheddar. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden brown. --Chef Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar in New York.

Grape Mostarda

In a saucepan, boil ½ cup of balsamic vinegar, ½ cup of sugar, 1 tablespoon of cracked mustard seeds and a cinnamon stick until reduced by half. Add 1½ cups of seedless red grapes and 2 teaspoons of mustard powder. Simmer over low heat for 10 minutes or until grapes are barely cooked through. Transfer to clean jars. Refrigerate for up to three months. Serve with rich meats. —Chef Eric Ripert,"Avec Eric" (Wiley)

Quince, Shiso and Elderflower Puree

In a pot, place 1 diced ripe quince, a few pinches of sugar, 2 tablespoons of elderflower cordial, 1 tablespoon of white soy sauce and enough dashi to cover. Bring to a boil, then simmer until cooked through. Puree in a blender until smooth. Season to taste with a touch of salt and pepper and lemon juice. Cool and spoon a small amount over scallops, lobster or pork. —Chef Anita Lo, Annisa in New York

Herbed Persimmon Spoonbread

Bring 1½ cups of milk to boil. Whisk in 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon of cornmeal, 8 tablespoons of butter and stir the mixture with a wooden spoon for up to 3 minutes over medium heat. Take off heat and cool to lukewarm. Beat 3 egg yolks in a separate bowl. Mix yolks, 3 tablespoons of fresh chopped herbs, 1½ cups of mashed persimmon, 1 tablespoon of orange zest, 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and a ¼ teaspoon of pepper into the mixture. Combine 1½ teaspoons of baking powder and ¾ cup of milk, and add to mixture. Beat 3 egg whites to soft peaks and gently fold into the mixture. Bake in a greased loaf pan at 375 degrees for 30 minutes or until a knife in the center comes out clean. Cover with aluminum foil if turning dark during baking. —Chef Sam Beall of Blackberry in Walland, Tenn.

Apple and Chicken Liver Stuffing

In a large skillet, melt 8 tablespoons of butter. Add 2 large finely diced onions. Cook until softened. Add 4 finely diced celery stalks, soften and season with salt and pepper. Add 4 coarsely chopped tart apples and cook for a minute. Stir in ½ pound of chopped turkey livers, 1 tablespoon chopped sage, 2 tablespoons chopped thyme and turn off heat. In a large mixing bowl combine 10 cups of cubed day-old bread (crusts removed) with the skillet mixture. Pour in 1 cup of chicken broth and ½ cup of cream and mix well to moisten bread. Taste and adjust seasoning. Stir in 2 beaten eggs. Transfer stuffing to buttered shallow baking dish. Bake for about 40 minutes, until golden. —Chef David Tanis,"Heart of the Artichoke" (Artisan)

Quince and Bacon Chutney

Render fat from 4 pieces of cubed bacon. Remove crisp bacon. Set aside fat. Add 3 cored and diced quince, and cook over medium heat to soften. Increase heat to caramelize. Mix in ¼ teaspoon of thyme, 1 bay leaf, ¼ piece of vanilla bean and 2 tablespoons of honey. Add 2 ounces of water and simmer to soften quince. Once liquid is reduced, add bacon and simmer over low heat. Mix in 1 tablespoon of sherry vinegar, salt and Espelette pepper to taste. Serve with bread, cured meats or cheese.—Chef Krista Kern Desjarlais of Bresca in Portland, Maine

Pear and Sunchoke Soup

Brown 2 ounces of butter. Add 2 minced onions, 1 pound of peeled and chopped sunchokes, 1 cubed russet potato and 2 cubed Comice pears. Cook over medium heat until onion is softened, about 8-10 minutes. Add 2 cups of chicken stock and bring to a boil. Cook 10 minutes and add 2 cups of heavy cream. Lower heat and simmer until potato, pears and chokes are tender. Season with salt and white pepper, pour into blender and puree until smooth. If thick, thin with stock. Transfer to a bowl and sprinkle with sea salt and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Serve as a starter or top with a seared scallop for dinner. —Chef Krista Kern Desjarlais

Pear and Sweet Potato Gratin

Combine 2 cups of cream, ½ cup of bourbon, a sachet of chamomile tea, 1 tablespoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper in a saucepan and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and discard sachet. Layer very thin slices of 2 sweet potatoes and 3 pears in a 12-inch baking pan, starting and ending with sweet potato. Pour liquid over gratin. Cover with foil and bake in 300-degree oven for 45 minutes. Uncover and bake 30 more minutes, making sure top does not dry out. —Chef Jason Justus of Justus Drugstore in Smithville, Mo.

Concord Grape Butter

Bring a quart of Concord grapes, 1/3 cup of sugar and ½ cup of water to a slow boil. Simmer until grapes break down, about 1 hour. Mash grapes and strain through a sieve. Combine 2 teaspoons pectin NH, ½ cup of sugar and ¼ teaspoon of salt in a medium saucepan. Whisk in 1½ cups of the juice. Bring mixture to a slow boil. Simmer 5 minutes on low heat. Remove and freeze jelly to cool down. Using a hand mixer, or by hand, combine 1 cup of softened butter and 1½ cups of jam until butter turns light purple and fluffy. Season with salt. —Chef Christina Tosi

Brussels Sprouts Salad With Green Olives, Walnut and Pomegranates

Core 16 large Brussels sprouts that have been blanched until tender. Slice into very thin rounds. Place in a mixing bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in ½ cup of pomegranate seeds, ½ cup of finely chopped green olives, ½ cup of finely chopped toasted walnuts, 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh parsley, 1 tablespoon of pomegranate molasses, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 4 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil. Serve with a white fish like cod or halibut, or with lentils for a vegetarian meal. —Chef Ana Sortun of Oleana in Cambridge, Mass.

Sweet-Sour Yogurt With Apple and Shallot

Lightly whisk 1¼ cups of yogurt until smooth and creamy. Stir in ½ teaspoon of salt, pepper, 1 teaspoon of cayenne, 1 teaspoon of sugar, ¼ teaspoon of finely grated ginger and ½ a grated Granny Smith apple. In a skillet, add a pinch of cumin seeds to 2 tablespoons of hot oil. Let them sizzle for 10 seconds and add 1 small, finely slivered shallot. Stir over medium heat until edges brown. Mix into yogurt. Use as a spread for bread, to add depth to meat curries or as a binder for chicken salad. —Chef Madhur Jaffrey,"At Home With Madhur Jaffrey" (Knopf)

Apple-Rosemary Puree

Bring 6 sliced tart apples, 2 cups of milk, 2 cups of water and a rosemary sprig to a slow simmer over medium-low heat. Cook for 10 minutes, or until apples are soft but not mushy. Drain for about 10 minutes and reserve liquid. Discard rosemary and transfer apples to a blender. Add 4 tablespoons of softened butter and puree until smooth, using some reserved liquid if needed to thin. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm with seared trout, sea scallops or other seafood. —Chef Michel Nischan,"Sustainably Delicious" (Rodale)

Apple Slaw

Stack ¼ pound of Savoy cabbage leaves (ribs removed) and slice into thin shreds. In a large mixing bowl, toss cabbage with 2 tablespoon of white wine vinegar and a little kosher salt. Set aside for about 10 minutes, or until cabbage begins to soften and weep. Drain most of the liquid from the bowl by tilting it over the sink. Add thin pieces of 2 tart apples, ½ cup of chopped chervil and another tablespoon of vinegar. Toss, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with grilled sausage or hearty roasted meats. —Chef Michel Nischan,"Sustainably Delicious"

Persimmon Glaze

In a blender, combine 10 ripe and peeled persimmons with 1 bottle of Muscadine wine that has been reduced to 1½ cups. Puree until smooth. Steep with 1 sprig of rosemary. Use as a glaze for whole roasted fowl such as chicken, duck or quail, cooking to a blistery skin. —Chef Sam Beall of Blackberry in Walland, Tenn.

(자료: Pervaiz Shallwani, WSJ)