THE OTHER SIDE OF BAEKDUSAN (백두산 저 건너편 - 영어원문)

[Tom Underwood]

 THE OTHER SIDE OF BAEKDUSAN

FROM SEOKGURAM TO BAEKDUSAN

In July 1931, when my grandparents were missionaries in Seoul, they took their family on an epic journey to Baekdusan – “White Head Mountain” – the highest point on the Korean Peninsula and mythical site of the nation’s founding 4,342 years ago.  Their journey by oxcart, train, car, and on foot with a mule train took two weeks.   My Aunt Grace, who was then 2 years old, was left behind in Seoul.

Grace Underwood, third from right, pictured at the Seokguram Grotto with her parents in 1939

78 years later, in September 2009, Grace finally got to Baekdusan.   She joined my family and other relatives from Seoul, Japan, and the U.S. for a three-day visit to the remote region that straddles China and North Korea.  Much has changed (including its spelling under Korea’s new romanization system).  We could not retrace my grandparents’ route through the northern part of Korea, but instead traveled in a day from Seoul to Baekdusan – flying from Incheon to Yanji, then riding a bus 200 km south-west through China’s Jilin province.  But Baekdusan’s timeless beauty and pristine environment remain as before.  

The traditional thatched houses, rice paddies, and ox-drawn transport of an earlier generation of Koreans survive in the picturesque countryside of Jilin, China

HEAVEN MEETS LAKE

Baekdusan is frequently covered in clouds, but we were blessed with brilliant sunshine and stunningly clear skies.  Our first view of the famous crater lake was from the nearly 3,000 meter northern summit, which was crowded with South Korean tourists despite its remote location.   The highest southeastern peak in North Korea appeared uninhabited.  And as we scrambled 500 meters down to the lake (by special arrangement with the Chinese Tourist Agency), we left the crowd completely behind, and the vista became even more stunning.   There were still patches of ice and snow, exotic flora, and a variety of small animals that showed no fear of us. 

Breathtaking view of Baekdusan’s crater lake

The incline to the lake is steep and slippery, but 80-year old Grace negotiated it safely – and hopped across the freezing, fast-moving Sungari River on precarious stepping stones.  The river is so clean we filled our canteens with its water.   And from the lake shore no one could be seen anywhere, in any direction, except two wardens at an environmental research station.  For a fee, they took us out on the mirror deep surface of the lake (called Cheonji, “Heaven Lake”).  In 1931, my grandfather took a folding canvas boat out on the lake and tried to plumb the depths with a 1,420 foot line.  It did not touch bottom.  

FLOATING ON A DEEP MIRROR

 

On deep water near the North Korean border (We did not cross.)

Many South Korean citizens have visited Baekdusan via China, but many others who would like to go are unwilling to travel through a foreign country to get to Korea’s own most revered and beautiful location.  They continue to await reunification.  Born in the northern part of Korea in 1929, my aunt got tired of waiting.  And today, on the opposite shores, you cannot see a soul. 

Tom Underwood

Regional Program Officer, U.S. Embassy Seoul

[eple]

Thank you for sincerely family story...*^^*