#86 Day 5 – Hyunpoong to Daegu

[스티븐스 대사]

We spent the night in Bi Seul San, named for the beautiful sound you hear when the wind blows through the trees.  With Typhoon Kompasu making its way onshore overnight, there was no shortage of beautiful sounds as the wind variously rustled and whipped through the trees.  It rained through the night, and as a cloudy dawn greeted us, I wondered if on this last day of our trip the weather would finally be our undoing.  But by the time we had tucked into a hearty “gom-tang” breakfast, the fast-moving clouds parted for a hot sun, and we were off. 

Bi Seul Mountain Slope

Immediately off the mountain, we reached the outskirts of Daegu, and with it urban Korea.  Our ride through the busy streets which led us into Daegu -- past factories large and small, businesses of every description, and bustling markets and activity everywhere -- reminded us of Daegu’s role as the heartland of the Republic of Korea’s early industrial development.  Daegu also was the temporary wartime capital of the Republic of Korea around this time sixty years ago, as President Syngman Rhee and his government, along with the U.S. Embassy and other diplomatic missions, moved south after the fall of Seoul in June.  They first moved to Suwon, then to Daejon, and by July to Daegu.  I shared with the other riders a memoir written in 1952 by the first secretary for political affairs at the U.S. Embassy, a booked called “Embassy at War.”  The author was Harold Noble, born in Pyongyang in 1903 to missionary parents, who went on to become a professor of Asian studies before fighting the Japanese as a U.S. Marine officer in World War II, and then becoming a Korean-speaking officer under Ambassador Muccio.  Three chapters in Noble’s book are entitled, “Embassy Taegu;” “We Must Leave Taegu;” and “Retreat from Taegu.”  Just the titles alone give you the idea. 

We rode through the city streets and up the hills to visit the numerous monuments and museums in Daegu dedicated to the Korean War.  Interestingly, the only relief we got from city riding, which presents a different set of challenges than the countryside, was when we tackled some steep hills leading up to the monuments.  It was some work; we arrived breathless at the monument base, climbed a rugged series of steps, and walked toward the monument to pay our respects.  Then, having caught our collective breath, we turned around, and realized with pleasure that we were seeing all of Taegu and its surrounding mountains laid out below us, all under a beautiful sky.

We biked up a steep hill and then climbed steps to pay our respects at the Korean War monument; turning around, we saw this beautiful view of Daegu behind us.

Throughout the day, we were honored to be greeted by Korean War veterans, most of whom were teenagers when the war started.  One told us he lied about his age to join the regular ROK army rather than the student corps.  We met people who suffered terrible injury and loss of their parents during the war, but went on to build productive lives.  I was stirred by the sincerity and eloquence of those we met who recalled the role of U.S. and UN troops at that time, and who spoke of their gratitude for the contributions Americans made to Korea’s survival and to their own lives.  As U.S. Ambassador to Korea, and as an American, I thanked them on behalf of the American people for the honor they show our veterans and their families.  And I repeated to them what I have heard from so many American veterans and their families:  The greatest reward of all has been seeing the democratic and economic success that is the Republic of Korea. 

We are at the end of a week that has exceeded my expectations.  As wonderful as the scenery was, the best part of the trip was the people.  I look forward to continuing to experience Korea by bicycle, both with American and Korean friends.  

Discussing the Korean War with Students

One note though.  Today was the day, the only day, that riders, two Embassy staff, sustained injuries while riding serious enough to require medical treatment.  With the advent of an increasing network of cycling trails to make riding safer and more convenient, I hope that the popularity of cycling continues to expand in Korea.  In that light, I want to especially thank the local government and police officials throughout our trip who were so supportive in helping to ensure that we had a safe and enjoyable trip.

 

[Gallery]

Hello, Ms. Ambassador,

Your summer event of cycling tour of Korean War 60th Anniversary was very impressive to me.
Your idea of sharing memories and history of the War with young generations and citizens was very creative and very thoughtful. I truly appreciate your warm-hearted effort.

When you were on the road, however, there were some others who had made tremendous effort for the 60th anniversay of Korean War. Please read followings on freeboard.

http://cafe.daum.net/usembassy/641D/8291

http://cafe.daum.net/usembassy/641D/8285

http://cafe.daum.net/usembassy/641D/8275