#120 Meeting Jeju’s Women Divers, Walking Jeju’s Trails

[스티븐스 대사]

Meeting the haenyeo just before our big dive!

Yikes, look at all those cameras!

Everyone in Korea seems to know I was recently in Jeju-do.  Everyone also seems to know that I visited a Haenyeo Diving School (한수풀해녀학교) while I was there, and experienced firsthand what it’s like to dive as Jeju-do’s famous women divers have for centuries. 

When we arrived at the Haenyeo Diving School, there was a lot of press there.  I’ve gotten used to having my picture taken a lot in Korea, and I appreciate the interest the press shows in my activities, but I was a little taken aback when I saw about twenty cameras all lined up by the water.  It was hard enough putting on a wet suit, flippers, weights and mask, but it was even harder to do it with all those cameras recording every move!  I soon forgot my self-consciousness, though, because I was trying to keep up with an extraordinary group of women divers, almost all a decade or more older than me, as they enthusiastically encouraged me to follow their lead in taking a deep breath and diving down into the chilly and clear waters just off the shore of their home village.  

The haenyeo taught us to dive!

When I met the haenyeo, each woman stated not her age but how long she’d be diving.  Some had been diving for longer than I’ve been alive.  I could tell just from shaking their hands that these were women of exceptional strength.  I saw it for myself when we went diving.  These women grew up with few advantages or opportunities for education.  All had worked hard – and are still working hard – to support their families. 

Whatever their hardships, they inspired me with their ready smiles and pride in their work.  In this, they are the epitome of what I consider to be the great strength of Korean women, whose role in Korea’s recent past in supporting their families through all the hardships of war and its aftermath is perhaps somewhat underappreciated, at least in the West.  Even though few women choose to become haenyeo these days, I am glad the tradition of haenyeo is not forgotten; it can inspire future generations – both women and men, Korean and foreign. 

The photo on the right was taken in the 1970s by a Peace Corps volunteer and I always liked it; I must have somehow had this photo in my subconscious when I raised the octopus up out of the water during my own dive!  But full disclosure: it was actually the real haenyeo beside me who made the catch underwater and handed it to me.  I was too busy just trying to hold my breath and stay underwater to actually catch anything.

Jeju Governor Woo Keun Min and the brain behind the Olle trails Olleh founder Suh Myung Sook

After eating some of what the haenyeo caught during our diving lesson, I did what I’ve decided I’ll do every time I go to Jeju-do; I took a walk on one of the numerous “Olle” trails that wind all over the island.  Last summer was my first “Olle” experience (http://cafe.daum.net/usembassy/I2bb/82), and this time I was again joined by Jeju Governor Woo Keun Min, and the brains behind the Olle trails idea, Olle Founder and President Suh Myung Sook on Trail #10, which goes along Hwasun Beach, Sabang Yeondae, Yongmeori Seashore, Sagaepogu and Mt. Songak.

Also joining us were seven Fulbright English Teaching Assistants (ETAs) living and working in in Jeju-do.  As I told the governor during our walk, Jeju-do has more Fulbright ETAs per capita than any other part of Korea, and they all love it there.  Many extend their commitments for another year.   

With Fulbright ETAs, Embassy group, and Olle Trail Founder and President Suh Myong Sook

The Fulbright Program is the U.S. government’s flagship exchange program.  It was started by U.S. Senator William Fulbright in 1945 to promote “international good will through the exchange of students in the fields of education, culture and science.”  Grants are given to both U.S. citizens to travel to another country and non-U.S. citizens to travel to the United States for teaching or studies.  In Korea there are more than 100 Fulbright ETAs spread throughout the country who serve as English teachers and people-to-people ambassadors for America.  In some ways, it is heir to the U.S. Peace Corps program that was in Korea from 1966 to 1981, and which first brought me to Korea.

I am impressed with President Suh Myung Sook and her dedication to making the Olle Trail a reality.  She clearly believes, “If you dream it, you can do it.”  As we walked along the trail, she talked about how she and her small staff obtained support and cooperation from Jeju-do residents for marking the “Olle” trails.  The trail system was begun in 2007 and in just a few years, this system of trails has become a not-to-be-missed attraction for any visitor to Jeju-do, and something that other locales in Korea are also doing.

So a big thank you – again – to the people of Jeju-do, and especially the legendary women divers who gave me a glimpse of their world.  The haenyo said to me with passion when we parted, “Do not forget us, the haenyo.”  I am certain I will never forget the spirit and strength of Jeju-do haenyo, and the beauty and hospitality of a very special part of Korea.

    

[stupid tom]

Can we say "Perfect"? as a delegate or a messenger rather than an ambassador? we'll be missing U and what u have shown us though it'll be continuous where u'll be. Thank you Stephens, :-)

[deja]

well, tom is right. we were happy to have an ambassador like you, your highness Ambassador Stephens.
Thank you very much for all you have done for us Koreans. We also look forward to seeing you on the meaningful stages for Korea in the near future.