ㅡ 하강시( 라펠링 ), 하강기 위치 높이기(?)

[곽노성(샛별)]

Rappelling on extension

What is rappelling on extension?

Here’s your answer.

Rappelling on extension means using a runner, Personal Anchoring System (PAS)( 확보 줄 ), or other piece of fabric to clip your rappel device further away from your body. Before we get into the benefits of rappelling on extension, here are a few reasons why not rappelling on extension is a pain:

When you clip your rappel device to your belay loop, it’s tucked in tight to your body, which causes two problems.

• First, having your device close to your body makes it more likely for loose clothes, hair, or gear to get sucked into the device and jam it up. I’ve seen a case where a climber had to cut her hair in order to free it from the device. ( 하강기가 하강자 몸에 가까우면, 옷, 머리카락, 또는 장비가 하강기에 물려서 잼밍 등의 문제. )
• Additionally, when your rappel device is clipped to your belay loop, you must keep your brake hand down by your thigh to keep the brake strand properly oriented. While not a problem on single-pitch terrain, keeping your hand that low gets annoying when rappelling for hours on end in the alpine.( 하강기를 빌레이 루프에 연결시, 제동 손을 계속 하박지 사이에, 낮게 유지하는 것이  힘듬)

So, what’s the benefit of rappelling on extension? There are a handful. 하강기 위치 높이기 장점  

• By increasing the distance between your body and your rappel device, it greatly reduces the possibility of getting your hair or shirt stuck. ( 머리카락, 옷, 귀걸이 등이 하강기와 엮일 기회가 적어진다. )
• Because your rappel device is relatively higher on your body, it puts your brake hand in a more ergonomic position. ( 하강기가 높이 있어서, 제동 손에 생물학적으로 편한 위치에 위치한다 )
• By raising the device it adjusts your center of gravity, which makes rappelling with a pack easier.( 중력의 중심을 바로 잡아사, 배망을 메고 하강시 편리하다. )
• Having your rappel device further from your body makes negotiating overhangs and roofs easier.( 오버행이나 루프에서 편리하다 )
• It allows you to clip your backup directly to your belay loop.( 백업 장치를 빌레이 루프에 클립할 수 있다 
• Depending on how you rig your extension, you have a ready-to-go tether to clip yourself into the next rappel anchor.( 경우에 따라서 다음 하강 앵커에 쉽게 클립할 수 있다. )

My preferred method uses a simple double-length sewn sling (120cm), but you can easily use a PAS if you carry one. I like the sling because it’s a piece of gear that I always have with me and that serves multiple purposes.

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I start by girth-hitching the sling through the two hard points of my harness. I then double the sling back and tie an overhand on a bight with both strands at about the halfway point of the sling. The bight of the overhand becomes the clip-in point for my rappel device and the free tail of the sling becomes my tether for clipping in at anchors.

When I am on rappel, I will then clip the tail back to my belay loop to make my entire rappel set-up redundant. I will also then clip my backup to my belay loop to finish the system.

Keep in mind that there are drawbacks to this system, namely that it adds a piece to the rappelling equation with the double length sling. However, I believe that the benefits outweigh this slight drawback, and I personally only use equipment that I fully trust; if there’s any doubt in my mind about the sling, I’ll retire it and buy another for $20.

Conclusion

I hope that this was informative and gave some valuable insight on ways to make rappelling safer. There are too many accidents while descending and in the small climbing community, each accident hits a little closer to home. I hope that collectively, we can work to increase safety and prevent accidents.

Matt Zia is an outdoor educator, climber, skier, and photographer with an AMGA SPI certification as well as four years of experience working rock climbing and mountaineering courses for the Colorado Outward Bound School.

[조수환(산총)]

네, 좋은 기술 감사합니다.