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25+ Ways To Be A Better Belayer
Give a safer and softer catch with these techniques
By Julie Ellison
Climbers are constantly trying to increase their strength and improve climbing technique, while belaying the leader is often viewed as a stagnant skill: Once you know how to feed out rope, take in slack, and catch a fall, you’re done. False. All climbers should strive to refine their belaying practices throughout their climbing career, which means learning and practicing the subtleties that make a truly great belayer. We’ve talked to guides, longtime climbers, and even a physicist about how to give the best catch possible in a variety of situations, and we’ve compiled all that information here. Dial in these methods every time you go to the gym or the crag, and your top-notch belay services will mean you’ll never have trouble finding a partner again.
Before the climb(등반전)
>>Wear closed-toe shoes to protect your feet if you’re being pulled up through obstacles, jumping into the air, and deflecting off the wall.
발가락 보호를 위해 발가락이 들어나지 않는 신발을 신어라.(샌들이나 슬리퍼 같은거 피해야 되겠네요....)
>>Belay gloves will give you increased control of the rope (including better grip on skinny cords), as well as protect your hands from rope burns and anything that might get stuck in the rope as it drags across the ground toward your brake hand. (Think: A cactus needle stabbed one belayer in the hand and resulted in him dropping the rope completely.)
(빌레이 장갑을 사용해라. 손보호를 위함과 자일 컨트롤이 좋다고 합니다.)
>>Check your belay stance by making sure you have a clear path between you and the cliff (in case you get pulled into it), and be aware of loose rocks as you shift your position by stepping forward or backward. Tripping in this situation can pull your climber right off the wall.
암벽과 자신 사이에 명확한 경로를 가지기 위해 빌레이 자세를 체크하라.
>>This is more of a belaying basic, but it can’t be stated enough: Always double-check your belay setup and the climber’s tie-in knot before he leaves the ground.
더블체크하세요.(정말 중요함을 느끼네요... 돌아다니다 보면 이상한 빌레이어들을 좀 봐서.... 저희도 항상체크해야겠죠.)
>>Communication between climber and belayer is key. For more info on this, check out Know The Ropes.
등반자와 빌레이어의 커뮤니케이션이 중요하다.
>>If you are a lighter belayer, don’t anchor yourself to anything on the ground. That would result in a hard catch on the climber and a violent jerk for you. If the climber is significantly heavier than you and long falls are possible, consider finding another belayer.
체중이 등반자보다 작은 경우에 확보한 후에 빌레이 보는게 그다지 좋지 않다네요. 추락시 확보해놓은 슬링이 탄성이 없어서 등반자에게나 빌레이어에게나 강한충격이 갈수 있다고 합니다.
>>Golden rule of belaying: Belay others as you’d like to be belayed. Focus on your leader, don’t get distracted, and pay attention.
등반자에게 집중하라고 하네요.(가끔씩 대화를 하면서 빌레이를 하기도 하는데..... 등반자 입장에서는 굉장히 불안한게 사실이죠. 특히 선등시에는요.)
>>Talk through how to belay a route beforehand. Maybe there are slab sections, roofs, near-groundfall clips, etc.; it helps to agree on how each section should be belayed so both partners are on the same page.
등반전에 어떻게 빌레이를 볼지 루트에 따라서 파트너와 대화를 나눌 필요가 있다.
>>If you’re heavier than your climber, know how to give a dynamic belay (see below).
등반자보다 자신이 무거울 경우에 다이나믹 빌레이를 할줄 알아야된다(등반자가 상대적으로 많이 가벼우면 추락시 로프에 의한 충격력을 받지 않게 하기 위함인걸로 생각됩니다.)
여기서 부터는 다시 밤에 올리겠습니다.ㅎㅎ
During the climb
>>Smaller belayers should consider using an assisted-braking device and standing really close to the base of the wall, near the first clip. This will help catch a fall and minimize the distance the heavier climber falls, which also minimizes the distance the climber has to yard up to get back on the route. Since lighter belayers will get pulled into the wall naturally, be aware of the lowest pieces of protection. We’ve heard horror stories of broken fingers as a result of being catapulted into the first draw.
가벼운 빌레이어의 경우에 빌레이시 벽에 가깝게 서 있어야한다. 추락시 벽에 부딪힐 수 있기 때문이가.(이건 저도 경험을....) 붕 떠서 첫번째 퀵드로우에 손가락이 꼬여 골절된 사람도 있다네요....
>>Whenever you’re not feeding slack, be prepared with your brake hand in a locked position. The climber might be tired, off-route, out of sequence, scared, or even just evaluating a loose hold. If the climber isn’t climbing, he might be falling, and even when he is climbing, he might be about to fall!
줄을 줄 때가 아니면 항상 제동자세를 취하고 추락에 대비하라. 등반자가 언제 추락할지 모른다.
>>Exercise situational awareness; know where your climber is and what he might hit if he takes a fall. He might need a bit more slack to clear a roof and fall into space, or he might need less to avoid hitting a ledge.
상황에 맞게 빌레이를 하라. 선등자가 추락시 벽에 부딪힐거 같은면 추락시 조금의 줄을 줘라(다아나막 빌레이 설명이네요)
>>Keep tabs on the rope: the location of the midpoint (will you still be able to lower the climber?), where the end is, the amount of stretch you expect, that the coil is feeding smoothly to you, there are no knots in the rope, etc.
자일의 중간 표시점등 등반자를 내릴 수 있는지 주의하라.
>>It’s your job to alert the climber if his leg gets between the rock and the rope (this can cause him to get flipped upside down in a fall and hit his head). If you see this happen, alert the climber by yelling up to him: “Joe, watch your leg!” or “Joe, watch the rope!”
다리가 벽과 로프 사이에 있지 말게하라. 등반자가 모를경우 빌레이어가 알려줘야한다.
>>It’s also your job to alert the climber if he has Z-clipped (clipped the rope from below a lower piece into a higher piece) or back-clipped (instead of the leader’s rope running up through the draw and away from the wall, the rope runs up through the draw and out between the biner and the wall. If you didn’t already know what these things are, consider taking a basic lead-belay course.) Yell up to him to correct his mistake.
Z clip시 또는 반대로 클립시 등반자에게 알려줘야한다.
>>When the climber is low to the ground, you’ll want less rope out to keep him from hitting the deck. As he moves up, you can keep a bit more slack in the system so he has ample rope to pull up and clip.
등반자가 지면과 가까울시에는 줄을 조금 주고 올라갈수록 조금씩 줄늘 풀어줘라.
>>Anticipate clips and be super-active with the rope, whether he’s clipping below his waist or way above his head. You’ll need to quickly feed out slack to avoid short-roping him (meaning you stop the rope from feeding through, which is not only annoying for the climber, but could cause him to fall at an inopportune time), but if he can’t make the clip or drops the rope suddenly, you’ll want to quickly reel in slack to avoid a huge fall.
선등자가 클립하기에 적절하게 줄을 재빠르개 줘야한다. 그러나 클립 실패시 큰 추락을 방지하개 위해 다시 줄을 다시 당겨줘야한다.
>>On the very start of a climb, the belayer might need to stand off to the side of the climber so he doesn’t land on your head if he falls. The belayer also might need to help the climber step over the rope by moving in closer to the wall or repositioning the rope.
스타트시 선등자의 뒤에서 추락을 방지하고 벽에 가까이 가거나로프의 자리를 바꿔가며 선등자가 오르는걸 도와야한다.
>>Encourage and reassure your climber as much as you can. He might need that extra push to get through a hard or scary move. Simple words like, “You got it!” or “Keep fighting, Joe!” might go further than you think.
선등자가 힘들어 할시 응원을 해줘야 한다.(앞으로 많은 응원 부탁드립니다...)
>>An assisted-braking device might not lock up completely if your climber is very light, if the climber sits back on the rope (instead of falling), or if there’s a lot of rope drag—more reasons to always have a hand on the brake side.
자동빌레이기 사용시 빌레이어가 많이 가벼우면 제동이 안 될 수 있기 때문에 한손을 항상 제동부에 두어야한다.(그리그리의 제동만 믿고 손 놓고 있는건 바람직하지 못한거겠죠. 많은 분들이 부주의하게 사용하는데 항상 마음에 새겨야 될 말이 아닌가 싶습니다.)
>>Before the climber makes the first clip or places his first piece, spot him by standing slightly behind and having your hands up, ready to guide his fall safely to the ground.
>>If the climber takes a fall higher on the route, you can assist him in getting back up by sitting back and putting all your weight on the rope while he pulls the rope down toward you. Time it right so you’re weighting the rope while he’s pulling himself up, and then quickly pull slack through your device. Repeat this process until he’s back to where he wants to be. Same goes for boinking: Make sure the rope is fully weighted when he’s pulling up.
선등자가 추락시 뒤로 가거나 앉아서 체중을 로프에 실어서 선등자가 원하는 곳에 가도록 도와줘야한다. 선등자가 올라가는 동안 로프에 무게를 싣고 재빨리 로프를 당겨줘서 도와줘야한다.
>>To avoid aches and pains while belaying, shift your weight between feet, take a step to the side to slightly change your stance, move your neck and eyes as much as possible, and stay loose. To prevent and treat the dreaded belayer’s neck, check out this handy guide.
빌레이중 통증을 피하기 위해 발 사이에 무게를 둬라.
>>When lowering on a sport climb, step forward so you’re practically leaning against the rock directly under the first bolt. Lowering the climber while standing away from the first bolt puts a tremendous amount of outward force on a bolt that is primarily designed for a downward force. Plus, this bolt sees more traffic and impact than almost any other bolt on the climb.
등반자를 하강시켜줄 때 첫번째 볼트에 가까이 가서 하강시켜줘야 한다는 내용이네요. 멀리서 내려주면 자일 유통이 안 되서 하강시키기 어렵죠.
Dynamic Belaying
When the leader starts to fall, our first instinct is to lock down the rope quick and hard, minimizing the overall distance the climber will fall. This can cause a leader to slam hard into the wall, resulting in snapped ankles, jarred spines, and serious head injury if the climber falls upside down. A way to mitigate this is to aim for giving a “soft catch” by dynamic belaying, which eases the climber into the wall and greatly reduces the chance of injury. Keep in mind that a dynamic belay isn’t always appropriate and it’s an expert technique, so make sure the answers to the following questions are yes before you employ this method.
선등자가 추락시 우리는 추락거리를 줄이기 위해 재빨리 텐션을 주지만 이것은 선등자가 강하게 벽에 부딪혀 발목 척추 머리에 강한 부상을 남길 수 있습니다. 이를 방지하기 위해 다이나믹 빌레이를 할 필요가 있습니다. 항상 마음에 두어야 하는 것은 다이나믹 빌레이가 항상 적절한 것이 아니고 전문적인 테크닉입니다. 이것을 확실히 하기위해 믿에 질문들에 '예'라고
할 수 있어야합니다.
♉ Is the path of the fall free from ledges, slabby sections, or other obstacles (including the ground) that the climber would hit if she takes a longer fall? If these are present, give a catch that will land the climber in a spot that avoids these hazards altogether.
♉ Is the belayer a similar weight to the climber or heavier? A lighter belayer will get pulled up in the air when the heavier climber takes a fall, and that unintentional movement by the belayer will naturally result in a soft catch.
♉ Are you on a trad line with marginal gear? A soft catch will reduce the force on the piece catching a fall, which could mean the difference between a safe catch and pulling gear.
The Process
We talked to physicist and climber Adam Scheer to see how a dynamic belay works. The belayer jumps as the climber begins to weight the rope. Because the belayer introduces upward momentum from the jump, it momentarily takes less work to continue pulling him upward, in essence reducing his weight from the standpoint of the climber. This lengthens the time over which the catch takes place, thus softening the catch. The belayer needs to stay light on his feet and be prepared to get pulled into the wall quickly. Keep knees and feet soft for low impact. Timing the jump is a mix between art, science, and practice, but you want to be moving upward just as the climber starts to put downward force on the rope. Falls happen quickly, so if the climber isn’t very high above his last piece, the belayer can usually plan to jump as soon as the climber comes off. If the climber is 10 feet or more (spicy!) above his last piece, the belayer can wait a split second before jumping.

>>Don’t feed out extra slack. This results in a harder catch because it increases the fall factor. If a climber takes a 10-foot fall with 20 feet of rope in the system, the fall factor is 0.5. If the belayer includes an extra five feet of slack (15-foot fall, 25 feet of rope in the system), the fall factor increases to 0.6, resulting in a harder catch (increased maximum force). Only give extra slack to make sure the climber clears an obstacle.
>>Don’t mistime your jump. If the belayer jumps too early, his center of gravity will actually be on the way down when the climber is reaching the point of maximum force. The belayer acts as a counterweight, and if he is traveling downward, his momentum will be counteracted by the falling climber, causing a harder catch.
>>Don’t run toward the wall, which will not soften a catch when the first piece is high (20 feet or more). T
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첫댓글 번역은 추후에....... 집에 가서 하겟습니다 ㅎㅎ 일단 좋은 글이라서 올려놓고 봅니다.
헐..
짬날 때마다 번역해서 수정하겠습니다....ㅎㅎ
어르신들 글씨 꼬부라진것만 봐도 어지럽고 머리 아프다..
틈틈이 번역하고 있는데 모든 회원분들이 보셨으면 하네요 ㅎ 안전에 관한 문제이니까요.