NEW RECIPE! Vanilla Weizen is truly a unique, light straw-colored wheat beer with the subtle aroma & flavor of ripe bananas and fresh vanilla. Somewhat cloudy, with a spicey and complex flavor profile. Wonderfully refreshing on a hot summer day!
Includes a real Tahitian vanilla bean, to be added to the secondary fermenter!
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This Beer Ingredient Kit makes 5 gallons of heavenly homebrew. This is equivalent to about fifty-two 12 oz. Beers. Only the finest ingredients are chosen and used in the making of this kit. Should you have any questions regarding this kit, Homebrew Heaven of Everett, WA will be happy to help you out. Our phone number is (425) 355-8865 (local), or (800) 850-2739 if you are calling from out of town.
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This Kit Contains:
1 Package of Wheat, Dry Malt Extract with Bittering hops (Hallertauer) already mixed into the dry malt
1 Package containing Crystal Malt {Specialty Grain), along with a cheesecloth grain bag
This Kit Contains:
1 Package of Flavor hops (Hallertauer)
1 Package of Finishing Hops (Hallertauer)
1 Package of Irish Moss (clarifier)
1 Package of Ale Yeast (optional: Wyeast #3068)
1 Package Vanilla Bean
1 Package of corn sugar that is used to "prime" the beer just before bottling.
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Equipment and Sanitation
It is necessary to assure that EVERYTHING that comes in contact with your wheat wort after boiling, is sanitary. By this, we mean free from bacteria and other wild yeasts. Your brewpot, spoon and wort chiller (if using one) will be sanitized by the boiling of your ingredients, but from that point on, your fermenter, carboy, airlock & stopper, etc., should be sanitized thoroughly. We recommend an iodine-based product called Iodophor for this purpose. We also recommend that your fermentation be done in a sealed container with an airlock affixed to it (closed fermentation) to avoid airborne bacteria. A sealed six-gallon, food-grade bucket works great as a fermenter. If you add water to your fermenter after the boil, it's usually OK not to boil it, but if you want to be absolutely certain of avoiding bacteria, you can boil it ahead of time (be sure to cool it afterwards).
Always sanitize your siphon equipment (bottle filler, racking cane and tubing) and bottles prior to bottling your beer. Bacteria infections are rare, but most originate from the siphon equipment.
INSTRUCTIONS
Put the specialty grains into the cheesecloth grain bag and tie a knot at the top of the bag (leave some room for the grains to "swish around" within the bag). Add water to your brewpot and throw the grain bag into the water. We like to start with about 6 gallons of water. This allows for the evaporation that takes place during the boil.
When the water temperature reaches about 170?F., remove the grain bag -it has done its' job. After the water comes to a boil, it's time to add the dry malt extract. You will have to add the contents slowly while stirring to mix. We like to remove the brewpot from the heat for this step to prevent the malt from scorching at the bottom of the brewpot. Dry malt takes a while to dissolve into the water. Just keep stirring until the entire amount of malt has been emptied into the brewpot.
Bring the mixture back to a boil and make note of the time. It is ESSENTIAL that you WATCH FOR BOILOVERS at this stage. Your beer will not be ruined, but a boilover makes a BIG STICKY MESS! Keep stirring the green stuff (hops) back into the boil as you do this. The hops like to stick to the side of the brewpot -keep stirring them back down in.
Remember how we told you to make note of the time? Well, you'll be boiling your mixture (now called wort) for one-hour total time. This one-hour boil ensures a good breakdown of the malt and hops. Ideally, you'll maintain a nice rolling boil for the entire time.
At 15 minutes before the end of the boil (45 minutes after the start of the boil), it is time to add the package of Flavoring hops and the package of Irish Moss. This addition adds a unique flavor and aids in clarifying your finished beer .
At 2 minutes before the end of the boil (58 minutes after the start or so...), throw in the package of Finishing hops. This addition provides a wonderful aroma to your finished beer.
At 60 minutes from the start of the boil, turn off the heat and cool your wort as quickly as possible. The best way to cool your wort is with a wort chiller. If you don't have one, you can set your brewpot in a sink full of ice water. A wort chiller will cool your wort in about 15 minutes, whereas the "sink full of ice water" method takes at least an hour, so leave the lid on the pot to avoid airborne bacteria. If
you boiled less that 5 gallons, you can add cold water to help cool your wort. The point is, cool it quickly, keeping the pot covered if possible!
When your wort has cooled to 80 degrees F, or below, it's time to pour it into your primary fermentor. Go ahead and splash your wort in order to aerate or "oxygenate" your wort at this point.
Yeast "like" a little oxygen at this point but never after. Don't worry about the residue. That is protein and hop residue (called "trub").
Now you should take a "starting gravity" reading (approx. 1.046- 1.053), using your hydrometer and test jar. After pouring the wort into your primary fermentor and taking a hydrometer reading, you can add ("pitch} your yeast. Do this by following the directions on the package of yeast. Either stirring the yeast into the wort, or sprinkling it on top will work just fine. Be sure to put a tight sealing lid on the fermentor and attach an airlock.
At this point, it is best to keep your fermentor at about room temperature (65?-75? until you see some activity (bubbling) in your airlock. This may take from 8 -36 hours with dry yeast. Be sure to fill your airlock halfway to provide a barrier between your wort and potential "invading" bacteria. The ideal fermentation temperature is between 65?75?F.
How long can you expect the fermentation to last? That depends on temperature, the freshness of the yeast and many other factors. At room temperature, the fermentation may take place in 2-3 days. At a cooler temperature, it may take 2-3 weeks. In any case, wait for the bubbling in the airlock to slow down to perhaps one "bubble" or less, per minute before transferring the beer to another container. This is called a "secondary fermentation" and serves to clarify and "condition", or age your beer. Homebrew Heaven likes to use a glass carboy for this next step, although another plastic bucket will do just fine.
Open the package containing the vanilla bean & place it in the secondary fermentor. Transfer the beer by siphoning off the clear beer and leaving all the trub (crud) behind. There is no need to strain out the trub -leave it in the bottom of the bucket. Give it to your garden or compost, or throw it down the drain ---we're after clear beer here, remember?
After the bubbling has completely ceased in your secondary fermentor, it is time to bottle your beer. Make sure there is at least 3 minutes between each "bubble" through your airlock before bottling. This ensures that there is no residual malt left to ferment. You will be adding corn sugar when you bottle in order to provide the right amount of carbonation. If there is still malt extract to ferment, you could have over-carbonated beer, or worse yet, exploding bottles.
This is the time to take an "ending gravity" reading (approx. 1.008 -1.014), using your hydrometer and test jar.
To bottle, siphon off the good stuff -clear beer, into another sanitized container. Your primary fermentor works fine for this. Next, stir the package of corn sugar into about 16 oz. of lukewarm water until it dissolves. Add this mixture to the beer and stir gently to mix.
Siphon your beer into sterilized bottles, leaving about 3/4" of headspace in each bottle and apply your caps to the bottles.
Your beer will be ready to drink sooner if you place your bottles in a warm (room temperature) place. Allow about 7-10 days before trying one if you do this. If you leave your bottles in a cool place (55? you should allow an extra week or so.
Be sure to store your bottles out of direct sunlight, or it will get "skunky" smelling if you do. Your beer will get better and better with aging, but who can wait? Enjoy! You can make more, right?
We sincerely hope you have enjoyed your vanilla Weizen kit! Let us know what you think!!!
Variations
1. If you like a pronounced clove/banana taste, try (strongly recommended) using the Wyeast 3068(Wheinstephen) liquid yeast culture (available at Homebrew Heaven) in place of the Nottingham Ale Yeast. This leaves your beer a bit cloudy, in the Hefeweizen style, but greatly enhances the flavor. Other strains of wheat yeasts are also available -German, Belgian and Bavarian. Each imparts a unique taste to a wheat beer .
2. Try using 1.5 cups of wheat or light DME (available at Homebrew Heaven) in place of the corn sugar when bottling. This will add a little more malt flavor and give your beer a creamier, dense head, however doing this can greatly increase the time it takes to carbonate. This can be done with any beer.
첫댓글이번이 3번째의 바이젠인데, 전의 경우에 바닐라 향이 부족함을 느껴 바닐라 빈을 첨가해 보고자 했습니다. 그런데, 이번은 예상외로 풍부한 향이 나왔습니다. 몇세대(몇번 아니지만도...)를 거치면서 효모가 이제야 제 본분을 아는가 봅니다.^^ 어떤 레서피는 효모찌거기를 사용하도록 하더군요. 이유가 있는 것 같습니다.
첫댓글 이번이 3번째의 바이젠인데, 전의 경우에 바닐라 향이 부족함을 느껴 바닐라 빈을 첨가해 보고자 했습니다. 그런데, 이번은 예상외로 풍부한 향이 나왔습니다. 몇세대(몇번 아니지만도...)를 거치면서 효모가 이제야 제 본분을 아는가 봅니다.^^ 어떤 레서피는 효모찌거기를 사용하도록 하더군요. 이유가 있는 것 같습니다.