The non-return slide has been around angling for about ten years now and
has become very entrenched into the South African angling circles. The
method is commonly know as ‘sliding’ and is predominantly used to target
non-edible fish species such as sharks, rays and skates. Saying this
there is also a large number of anglers that use slides to great effect
to target Kob and Garrick on live baits. Over the years there have been
many outstanding edibles caught on slide rigs making its versatility
limitless.
The concept is simple. The method allows you to place very large baits
with almost pin point accuracy at distanced you could never dream of
attaining with much smaller throw baits. The style is unique to South
African angling and although it has been taken to/from various countries
the successes have been limited. Sliding is a robust form of fishing
and the typical tackle and equipment used by South African anglers is
well suited and complements the requirements.
Rig & Materials
Slides
Slides come in all shapes, sizes and materials these days and the
beginner can easily be fooled into buying items of poor quality only to
have the item fail when it counted the most. Be wary of cheap and nasty,
have a look to see what styles experienced slide fishermen are using
before making a purchase. Quality slides are made from spring or
stainless steel rods. If you can easily bend the shaft by hand then just
imagine what pressure a decent shark can inflict during a lengthy
battle. Most of the pressure will be transferred onto the coil section
by the stopper ring, this is where you want to see 4- 7 smaller tightly
twisted coils as a measure of quality. Inspect the size as well as the
weld joins on the stopper ring. Make sure the stopper ring is the
correct size and would not easily be pulled back into the coil under
pressure.
On the shaft, where the swivel is joined, I prefer the non welded type.
The swivel should be a decent sized and preferably a power type swivel
as opposed to a barrel swivel. Some new developments have a plastic bead
inserted on the straight bar of the coil, this further prevents the
coil from compressing and stops the stopper ring being pulled though the
coils.
Most slides fail either when the swivel snaps or the weld used to secure
a swivel fails. In most cases this is caused by inferior material or
poor construction. It can also happen if a slide rig has been used a
number of times without being washed in fresh water. Salt residue will
erode both the weld and the internal clasps of the swivel resulting in a
tackle failure.
A good tip, after fishing a rig, is to wash your rigs in fresh water,
let them dry and then spray your non-return slide and rig with WD-40.
This will limit the amount of corrosion cause by salt water when stored.
Light Slides are made from mild steel wire and are intended for every
day use in places that are not renowned big shark waters. The springs
are smaller with less 'turns'. The swivels used are smaller and not
genuine power swivels. These slides are mass produced and purchased in
packs of two or three.
Medium Slides are made from thicker gauge mild steel or thin gauge
stainless steel. The springs are larger with more 'turns' to ensure a
strong stopper. These slide are hand made and not mass produced. They
have larger power swivels and are sold individually.
Heavy slides are made of thick gauge stainless steel. The springs are
reinforced with a plastic bead on the base. This prevents the spring
from collapsing under extreme pressures. Large power swivels and solid
brass welds ensure strength. These slides are handmade and sold
individually at specialist shops.
Hooks
What hooks an angler uses on his slide rigs can be a very hot and touchy
topic. Countless war stories can be told and a variety of reasons told
why one hook is better than the next. The one sure thing that any shark
angler must be certain of is that they always use the best quality hook
they can afford. Sizes again differ from angler to angler and the
particular brand they use. I would suggest the smallest size used is a
10/0 in ‘J’ hooks and an 11/0 in circle hooks. These will cater for just
about every bait size. If you are really sending out much larger baits
then match the hook to the bait.
‘J’ Hooks are still the most popular to be used on slide rigs. The three
most popular brands would be Diiach, Mustad and Kendal. Although ‘J’
hooks have proven their effectiveness, they are often too effective and
by the nature of their setting can hook into any part of the sharks
mouth, throat, gills or stomach.
In recent years the attention to ensuring sustainable resources has
given light to the circle hook. The circle hooks origins date back to
the patterns of hooks used by our primitive forefathers. The commercial
long liners have used circle hooks for years as an effective ‘self
trapping’ hook means. What makes the circle so attractive to
recreational and sports fishing is its deadly percentage of bite to
hook-up ratio as well as its 99% assurance of setting itself into the
scissors (corner) of any fish’s mouth. A good understanding of the
mechanics and actions of circle hooks is a definite requirement. Getting
use to fishing with circle hooks takes some practise at the water, but
once you understand the dynamics you will wonder how you ever doubted
that strange looking hook in the past.
Steel
There are only really two choices when selecting the steel for your
rigs, solid wire (American Fishing wire / Piano wire) or woven or
stranded wire. The latter is normally coated with a layer of carbon or
plastic shrink. There are a good number of brands on the market, most
are a good quality. Recently I have seen a few cheaper brands in tackle
stores, but these are mainly in the lower breaking strains, all well
below the 100lbs class.
As sliding has become more advanced anglers have quickly learnt the best
spots and conditions that provide the BIG fish. There was a time when
anglers considered 150Lbs steel sufficient to tackle ‘all’ catches.
Today I would recommend a minimum of 200lbs steel as a failsafe against
most possibilities. Saying this I have personally been bitten off twice
and have witnessed at least three other instances where 200lbs steel has
been clipped neater than a side cutter could finish the job. Your
choice of steel thickness depends largely on the location and the
species you are likely to target in these waters.
Many of South Africa’s top competitive and recreational anglers believe
in using thinner diameter steel (150lbs max). The belief is that the
thicker diameter steel is less likely to slip between the gaps of a
sharks teeth and therefore enabling the base of two teeth to wear away
during a prolonged fight or vicious strike. Personally I simply feel a
lot more confident with the heavier gauge steel.
When targeting species such as Cow Sharks and Ragged Tooth Sharks, to
improve the hook up rate, many anglers strip away the coating of the
stranded steel. There is a belief that this coating often gets caught up
in the shark’s teeth and therefore prevents the hook/s from setting in
the jaw.
Sinkers
Using the correct weight and grapnel sinker is crucial to completing a
successful slide. The grapnel sinkers used for sliding differ from the
common types used for most edible fishing. The most obvious difference
is the extra long steel pins. These are used to really dig into the
surface and provide an essential anchor to keep the line as tight as
possible during the slide process.
Slide sinkers can be modified by simply bending the steel and making
shapes that would then provide better grip for the angler. Below are the
three configurations I like to use when using the non-return clip.
Standard Sinker used when fishing onto a firm sandy or scattered rocky
ground. This STD configuration will provide enough grip, under normal
swell and current conditions, to slide baits of up to 1-1.5Kg.
Modified like this a slide sinker will offer increased grip over the STD
configuration. It can be used on firm sandy or scattered rocky ground,
especially when there is increased swell and current at play. The
modification can also be used to anchor the slide when using larger
baits of 1.5kg or larger.
Modified like this a slide sinker will offer exceptional grip over very
loose or shifting sandy sea beds or scattered rocky ground. It can also
be used in conditions where there are larger swells and very strong
currents.
Many anglers complain that they loose too many slide sinkers and often
the entire slide when fishing with the non-return clips. To prevent your
sinker being the cause of much frustration and costs I have added some
basic points to help prevent common problems.
Sinkers monofilament snoot should never be longer than 30 – 45 cm and
made from a lighter line mono your main line (main line 0.55mm then
sinker snoot 0.40mm) The shorter sinker snoot prevents any chance of the
sinker getting snagged or twisting up the main line during a prolonged
fight. The lighter line ensures that if truly stuck the short lighter
line will snap long before the main line. This will either save you a
fish or a slid trace when rebating.
When casting hook the stopper ring of the slide into the sinker clip,
this will carry the weight and prevent the lighter sinker snoot from
snapping under the pressure of the cast. In most cases the stopper ring
will unclip once the sinker hits the bottom. To ensure the ring releases
you can give the rod a few dips and jerks before the sinker settles on
the seabed.
Generally slide sinkers do not get stuck, but are covered by sand.
Remember that your baits are laying much longer than conventional
fishing rigs, during this extended time the ocean tides and currents
will deposit sand both over the sinker, rig and mainline. Many anglers
become frustrated and impatient when trying to retrieve a ‘stuck’ slide
trace and eventually end up snapping the main line and loosing an entire
rig. This often ends up costing more than the slide rig as the line can
snap anywhere between the rod tip and the rig! A good way to get your
slide sinkers ‘unstuck’ is to apply maximum steady pressure and simply
hold it there until the weight of the line tension lifts the sinker from
the sand. Exercise patience, the process can take a few minutes. Try to
avoid any shark jerks and pulls on the line, but rather slowly lift and
drop the rod. Try it it works and you will save money once you have
grasped the idea.
If you decide to fish a unknown spot then try to locate deeper water
coming off a gulley, bank, rip bank or rock feature. Sharks generally
operate in the deeper water coming off these features. Under the right
conditions they will venture onto or over banks to get to these spots
where their food sources are found,
For the beginner it would be easier at first to practise your skills at a
recognised shark fishing spot and then later venture out to new waters
armed with some experience.
How to slide
Cast you sinker out reaching the most favourable spot you can reach and
let it sink and gain a good grip on the seabed. Ensure that after your
cast you have collected all the slack line from the bow of the cast and
try to keep the line down to the sinker as tight and direct as possible.
Let the sinker lie for a few minutes before you start attaching the
slide rig to the line.
Attaching the slide spring:
Pic 001
Pic 002
Pic 003
Pic 004
Pic 005
Pic 006
Pic 007
Once you have the slide attached to the main line its time to send the
bait down through the shore break and eventually onto the stopper ring.
Getting the bait through the shore break can be tricky, especially
during a strong pushing tide.
Get yourself as deep into the water as possible if fishing off the
beach, if fishing of the rocks, find the highest ground and release the
bait from here.
Keeping the main line as tight as possible, with your rod pointing
upward, release the bait and let it slide down as far as possible in to
the water. Once it touches down into the water you can immediately start
making very small stabbing jerks on your rod. Some chaps almost like to
cause a vibration down the line during the initial slide by completing
very short fast jabs. Remember to time your actions with the shore break
waves. Try stopping and lifting your rod as a strong wave crashes over
the bait. Once the baits has cleared the initial shore break you can
lengthen your rod strokes into a constant pumping action. Always on a
tight line and keeping an eye on the slide progress of your bait. Try to
get into a motion by watching what action with your rod jerks produces
the best slide action to your bait.
Once out of sight with your bait well under the water keep pumping your
rod and shaking the bait for at least another 5 – 7 minutes to ensure
the bait reaches the stopper ring. A bait suspended somewhere between
the rod tip and stopper will the best of times result in a burn off when
the strike comes.
Baits
A simple rule of thumb says that the bigger the bait the bigger the
fish! Use you imagination and run wild. Try to carry at least three
different bait types with you when shark fishing. Believe it or not
these guys can get picky. The three bait types I loosely class as white
meat, red meat and snot baits.
White Meat Baits: Yellow Tail, Shad, Mullet, Grunter
Red Meat Baits: Mackerel, Horse Mackerel, Bonito’s
A shark strike can vary every single take and are never the same. On
slide the most important thing to consider is whether your spring has
reached the stopper ring before you start applying the fight pressure.
When I get a take I generally wait for the fish to pull the rod down and
start taking line before I tighten up and wait for the definite solid
feel of the stopper ring. Once I’m certain that slide is in place I set
the hooks by simply lifting the rod two or three times…no violent strike
is needed. Remember that if you are using circles hooks no strike at
all is required.
When you initially start using the non-return clip there will be fish
lost through ‘burn off’s’ and it will take a while to get to grips with
the concept. Once you have perfected the strike, the fight is like any
other.
Nothing substitutes for time spent by the water, but instead of spending
ten visits doing the same thing have one day of trying ten different
things.
첫댓글 상세한 그림 설명....감사합니다
원투 슬라이드 라이브 채비... 잘 봤습니다.
흐.. 근데 원투에서 킹이가 잡힌후 치고 나가면...
릴에 원줄을 얼마나 감아야 할까요 ㅠ.ㅠ
그래서 대분분 pann 525 보다 조금 큰 535나 슬로시 30 쏠티스트 30을 쓰지요
감사합니다
와우....미끼 묶는데 케이블 타이도 이용하는군요.....
와![~](https://t1.daumcdn.net/cafe_image/pie2/texticon/ttc/texticon28.gif)
![~](https://t1.daumcdn.net/cafe_image/pie2/texticon/ttc/texticon28.gif)
저정도면 악어도 못빠져 나가겠네요![~](https://t1.daumcdn.net/cafe_image/pie2/texticon/ttc/texticon28.gif)
![~](https://t1.daumcdn.net/cafe_image/pie2/texticon/ttc/texticon28.gif)
![~](https://t1.daumcdn.net/cafe_image/pie2/texticon/ttc/texticon28.gif)
![^0^](https://t1.daumcdn.net/cafe_image/pie2/texticon/ttc/texticon50.gif)
![><](https://t1.daumcdn.net/cafe_image/pie2/texticon/texticon64.gif)
잘 보고 갑니다,,
^__^ far north 쪽 해변에서 해보면 대물 참돔이나 트리벨리 잡을수 있을 꺼에요
케이블 타이도 사용하는군요 음.. 바늘이 10호싸이즈니..
큰 미끼를 달아서 채비와 함께 던지면 그 저항 때문에 멀리 나가지 않았는데,위의 방법으로 그 문제를 해결할 수가 있었네요.그리고 전층조법의 효과도 노릴 수가 있을 것 같고요~~.
문제는 장소 입니다 높은 갯바위게서 해서 미끼가 잘 미끌려나갑니다.