2009년 쿠루시오해류 탐사 다큐멘타리 제작 ; 드레이크호 프로펠러

[김승규]

안전 세일링~~!

안전 세일링~~!

1. 그간 사용해오던

    프로펠러가 지난 4월말 나가사키-여수레이스중 파손되어 응급처치를 해서 사용하고 있는 중이다.

    프로펠러의 교체를 위해 노력해 왔으나

    최고성능을 자랑하는 MAXPROP 프로펠러의 가격이 만만치 않아 여러 방향으로 검토를 해 왔었다.

    신품교체를 위해, 오동현님이 MAXPROP과 접촉해서 좋은 조건으로 공급받기로 했으나

    한푼이라도 절약해야 하는 가난한 조국의 현실앞에

    몇가지의 우려에 불구하고

    생생한 상태의 아래 18인치 MAXPROP 3날개형 CLASSIC 모델 중고품을 절반값에 구입하게 되었다.

    여러가지 노력을 해준 오동현님과 김태용군에게 감사.

    지난 독도레이스중에는 고정된 프로펠러로 인해 많은 크루들의 노력에 불구하고

    프로펠러에서의 저항발생으로 속도가 떨어져 가슴 한편이 미안했었고

    기주중 소음도 엔진정비와 새프트 정비에 이은 프로펠러 교체로

    한결 조용한 환경에서 댕길 수 있게 될 듯 한다.

    이 게시물은 향후, 복잡한 프로펠러 장착작업에 실수가 없도록

    관련자료를 수집/정리중인 게시물입니다. 계속 수정

2. MAXPROP 3BLADE CLASSIC

 

With the increased popularity of the cruising vessel, Max-Prop introduced the three blade classic model in the early 80's. This propeller will enhance a vessel's performance both under power with less vibrations, better power in load conditions and under sail with reduced drag. With its unsurpassed powering ability in both forward and reverse, the three blade classic Max-Prop has become a legend among the sailing community. While Standard equipment on some of the world's most famous yachts (Swan, Little Harbor, Hinckley, Alden, Baltic, etc.), the three blade classic is also a proven choice for the more modest common cruiser.

• Best Forward Power
• Reduces Vibrations
• Outstanding Reverse
• Uneqaled Reliability
• Very Low Drag
• Internal Adjustable Pitch
• Available from 11" to 44" for shafts 3/4" to 3" or metric equivalent.

With the increased popularity of the cruising vessel, Max-Prop introduced it's three blade classic model in the early 80's. This propeller will enhance a vessel's performance both under power with less vibrations, better power in load conditions and under sail with reduced drag. With its unsurpassed powering ability in both forward and reverse, the three blade classic Max-Prop has become a legend among the sailing community. This propeller is designed to fit 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" (30mm to 35mm) Shafts.

3. INSTALLATION

Installation Manuals This instruction booklet is designed to answer all your questions on assembly of the Max Prop. Please read it carefully and assemble the propeller at least once before installing it on your boat.

1) 3 BLADE ASSEMBLY: Make sure that if you receive more than one propeller that you do not interchange parts. Each propeller is individually balanced and if interchanged it will be put out of balance. Please use figure 3 in the instruction book for part number references.

A) Fit the hub (1) to the propeller shaft (2). Be sure that the key (3) is the proper dimension and that the hub slides completely onto the shaft. If you are not sure, remove the key and slide the hub onto the shaft making a mark on the shaft where the hub stops on the shaft. Re-insert the key and slide the hub on to the shaft, if it slides up to your mark , it is fine. If not, you will need to file down the sides or top of the key until the hub slides completely onto the shaft.

B) Tighten the nut (A) onto the shaft. Align the groves in the base of the nut with the groves in the central hub, so as to obtain two complete holes allowing insertion of the pins (B). Insert the pins, then rotate the pins are as shown in the drawing below, so as not to interfere with the inserting of the central cone gear. One thread can be exposed aft of the nut, if more than that is showing it will be necessary to cut off the excess with a hack saw. If too many threads are exposed it will raise the central cone gear (6) and effect the performance of the propeller.

C) Insert the central cone gear (6) into the central hub (1) as shown in figure 3VP. The cone gear has a block between two teeth, this is the "X" mark. It will fit into the central hub at only one place, where there is a gap in the gear teeth.

D) Fill the two halves of the spinner (7) with grease. We recommend Lubraplate model 130AA grease. Close the two halves around the hub and tighten down the screws.

NOTE: DO NOT USE TEFLON GREASE it will wash out very quickly.

E) Locate the mark on the top inside of the spinner (a small drill hole). This is the "Y" mark in the drawing below. Rotate the spinner until the "Y" mark on the spinner coincides with the correct letter on the top of the cone gear. "R" is for a right hand rotation shaft and "L" is for a left hand rotation shaft. (Shaft rotation is determined from the stern of the boat looking forward).

NOTE: It is helpful to make a mark between the spinner and the exposed part of the central hub, or tape them so that any rotation can be noted and corrected. If the spinner is rotated before the blades are attached it will alter the blade angle.

F) Insert the three blades onto the three pins of the spacer (10). Fill the end cap (11) with grease and put the blades into the three seats of the end cap.

NOTE: Make sure that the numbers on the blades correspond to the numbers on the spacer and the numbers on the end cap 1 to 1, 2 to 2, and 3 to 3.

G) Move the blades to the feathered position, making sure that the rounded trailing edges of the blades are aft as shown in figure 3 of the instruction manual. Slide the end cap and feathered blades onto the spinner, make sure that the numbers on the blades and spinners match. Next tighten down the end cap with the screws.

NOTE: Check to see that the spinner did not rotate. If it did pull the blades back 1/4" and then realign the mark between the spinner and hub. Make sure that when the blades go on to the spinner that they are fully feathered.

H) To make the blades rotate more freely it is advisable, after tightening all the screws, to give some bedding blows on the spinner and blades with a plastic or wooden mallet.

I) To make sure that the screws will not loosen insert a cotter pin into the head of each screw. Put them in so that if the screw were to loosen it would hit the cotter pin as shown in figure 5 of the instruction manual. Cut the cotter pins to a length of 1/4" and put them in. A light tap with a hammer on the head of the pin will spread the ends open, it not use a screw driver to spread them apart.

J) Make sure that the propeller is protected from electrolytic corrosion by using "mil spec" zinc anodes on the propeller shaft. If the propeller has been assembled properly:

• The blades must rotate freely and stop at the blade angle you selected.
• In the feathered position the blades must line up perfectly as in figure 6.
• The propeller must never rotate as shown in figure 7.

2) PITCH ADJUSTMENT This is a critical step, make sure that you know what pitch to set the propeller at, either by your old propeller or by your engine and reduction ratio.

• The pitch is adjustable from 10 to 30 degrees of blade angle.
• Figure 1 shows the conversion from inches of pitch to degrees of blade angle.
• To properly convert from inches to degrees follow steps A thru C.

A) Determine the diameter of your propeller
B) Go down the column that corresponds to your propeller diameter until you find the desired amount of pitch.
C) Cross reference this pitch in inches to the blade setting angle directly across the chart and you will have the desired blade angle.

Propeller Diameter
		15"	16"	17"	18"	19"	20"	21"	22"	23"	24"	25"	26"
B	10o	4.9	5.2	5.5	6.0	6.3	6.7	7.1	7.4	7.7	8.0	8.3	8.6
L	11o	5.5	5.8	6.2	6.6	7.0	7.4	7.8	8.1	8.5	8.8	9.2	9.5
A	12o	6.0	6.4	6.8	7.2	7.6	8.0	8.4	8.8	9.2	9.6	10.0	10.4
D	13o	6.6	7.0	7.4	7.8	8.2	8.7	9.1	9.6	10.0	10.4	10.8	11.3
E	14o	7.1	7.6	8.0	8.4	8.8	9.4	9.8	10.4	10.8	11.2	11.6	12.2
	15o	7.6	8.1	8.6	9.1	9.6	10.1	10.6	11.2	11.7	12.1	12.6	13.1
S	16o	8.1	8.6	9.1	9.8	10.3	10.8	11.3	12.0	12.5	13.0	13.5	14.0
E	17o	8.7	9.2	9.8	10.4	10.9	11.5	12.1	12.7	13.3	13.8	14.4	15.0
T	18o	9.2	9.8	10.4	11.0	11.5	12.1	12.8	13.4	14.0	14.6	15.2	16.0
T	19o	9.8	10.4	11.0	11.7	12.3	12.9	13.7	14.2	14.8	15.5	16.1	16.9
I	20o	10.3	11.0	11.6	12.4	13.0	13.7	14.5	15.0	15.6	16.4	17.0	17.8
N	21o	10.9	11.6	12.3	13.0	13.7	14.4	15.3	15.9	16.6	17.3	18.0	18.8
G	22o	11.4	12.2	12.9	13.6	14.3	15.1	16.0	16.8	17.5	18.2	18.9	19.8
	23o	12.0	12.8	13.6	14.3	15.1	16.0	16.8	17.6	18.4	19.2	20.0	20.8
A	24o	12.5	13.4	14.2	15.0	15.8	16.8	17.6	18.4	19.2	20.2	21.0	21.8
N	25o	13.2	14.1	15.0	15.8	16.6	17.6	18.5	19.3	20.1	21.1	22.0	22.8
G	26o	13.8	14.7	15.7	16.6	17.4	18.4	19.3	20.2	21.0	22.0	22.9	23.8
L	27o	14.4	15.4	16.4	17.3	18.2	19.2	20.2	21.1	22.0	23.0	24.0	24.9
E	28o	15.0	16.0	17.0	18.0	18.9	20.0	21.0	22.0	23.0	24.0	25.0	26.0
	29o	15.6	16.7	17.8	18.8	19.8	20.9	21.9	23.0	24.0	25.1	26.2	27.1
	30o	16.2	17.3	18.5	19.6	20.6	21.7	22.8	24.0	25.0	26.1	27.3	28.2
Inches of pitch

Pitch adjustment is very simple on the V.P. model, and can be done with the boat in or out of the water in a matter of seconds. Refer to the figure below.

Once you have determined the pitch and rotation to set the propeller at, pull back on the adjustment ring and rotate it to the correct degree of blade angle for that rotation. Once the correct setting aligns with the degree reference mark push it back into place. The pitch is now set. As an example the setting for the propeller in the drawing below is 18o for a right hand rotation propeller or 22o for a left hand rotation propeller.

Figure 2 below shows degrees of blade angle not inches of pitch.
To convert from inches of pitch to blade angle use figure 1.

3) TROUBLE SHOOTING If the propeller feels stiff or has a hard spot in the rotation systematically go through the points below.

A) If the propeller does not rotate freely, remove some of the grease from the spinner and reassemble.

B) Sometimes it can happen that a small piece of metal or a burr enters the gears, or a piece of the propeller has been dinged; in this case the blade movement can become hard. It is necessary then to do as follows, referring to figure 8.

1) Open the propeller and assemble it again after having taken the central cone gear (6) out, so that the blade and the hub rotation are independent. If the hub rotation is hard, remove 0.01 mm from surfaces "A" with an emery cloth. On the contrary if the blades rotation is hard, remove 0.01 mm from surfaces "B" of the spacer using emery cloth wrapped around a flat file. Try until both hub and blades rotate freely.

2) Again mount the central cone gear (6) and reassemble the propeller. If the propeller rotation still has some hard points remove 0.1 mm with a flat file from surface (C) so that central cone gear sits lower and the clearance between conical gears increases.

4) PROPELLER USE The Max Prop works automatically. By putting the engine in gear the blades will engage in either forward or reverse. The best way to feather the propeller is;

• Power at 2 to 3 knots in forward.
• Kill the engine while still engaged in forward.
• When the engine has stopped, if the shaft is still spinning engage the transmission in reverse to stop the freewheeling.

You can check to see if the propeller is feathered or not by taking the engine out of gear. If the propeller is not feathered the shaft will freewheel like with a fixed blade propeller.

In that case start the engine again and repeat the three steps. If your propeller has been greased properly it will feather in a fraction of a second as soon as you stop the shaft from freewheeling. Once the prop is feathered, you can either leave the transmission in gear or out of gear, it does not matter. DO NOT kill the engine while in reverse. In this case the blades will be in the reverse position and will not feather. You can actually use this feature to drive a shaft alternator.

IMPORTANT: If the Max-Prop is installed on a vessel that can attain sailing speeds over 15 knots, it is MANDATORY to return the transmission to neutral while sailing. If the transmission remains engaged and the propeller were to open (from hitting an object or water flow) it may turn the engine, flooding it, resulting damage to the engine.

5) PROPELLER MAINTENANCE The Max Prop needs to be regreased a minimum of once every two years. We recommend Lubraplate "130 AA" Grease, it is inexpensive and performs better than many other greases.

There are two holes in the spinner of the propeller to grease. Remove the set screw from the forward hole with a #3 metric Allen wrench and screw in the zerc tower, attach your grease gun and fill the propeller with grease until the grease starts to come out between the hub (#1) and the spinners. Replace the set screw and remove the set screw from the more aft hole. Reinstall the zerc tower and attach your grease gun and fill the propeller with grease until the grease starts to come out between the blades and the spinners. Remove the zerc tower and reinsert the set screw into the propeller. Do not leave the zerc tower in the propeller.

• With each pump of the grease gun rotate the propeller from forward to reverse to allow the grease to work through the propeller.
• The numbers above are from Figure 3 at the beginning of this Max-Prop Manual.
• Make sure that you always keep the zinc anodes in good condition. They must be replaced at least once a year or as needed. The propeller must be protected by a lot of zinc. When replacing it make sure that you clean the contact point between the zinc and propeller shaft. Use a wire brush or fine sandpaper to clean the shaft and the inside diameter of the zinc to give the zinc good contact with the propeller.

6) PROPELLER REMOVAL In order to remove the propeller you must first remove the spinner and nut. Be sure only to pull from outside the hub (figure 9). If the surfaces on the hub are hit or dinged it can effect the performance of the propeller.

7) WARNING It is important to follow the instruction below carefully so as to avoid a shock to the gears on the blades and cone gear, that could be damaging to the teeth.

1) When going from forward to reverse and the opposite, it is necessary to idle down and shift at low RPM's between gears.

2) The propeller body must always be completely filled with a very fluid grease. This is so when you reverse direction the rotation will be smooth with no binding. Binding points will produce a shock and could damage the gears.

2 Blade Classic Installation Mannual

This instruction booklet is designed to answer all your questions on assembly of the Max Prop. Please read it carefully and assemble the propeller at least once before installing it on your boat.

1) PITCH ADJUSTMENT This is a critical step, make sure that you know what pitch to set the propeller at, either by your old propeller or by your engine and reduction ratio.

• The pitch is adjustable from 10 to 30 degrees of blade angle.
• Figure 1 shows the conversion from inches of pitch to degrees of blade angle.
• To properly convert from inches to degrees follow steps A thru C.

A) Determine the diameter of your propeller
B) Go down the column that corresponds to your propeller diameter until you find the desired amount of pitch.
C) Cross reference this pitch in inches to the blade setting angle directly across the chart and you will have the desired blade angle.

Propeller Diameter
		12"	13"	14"	15"	16"	17"	18"	19"	20"	21"	22"	23"	24"	25"	26"
B	10o	4	4.3	4.6	4.9	5.2	5.5	6.0	6.3	6.7	7.1	7.4	7.7	8.0	8.3	8.6
L	12o	4.8	5.2	5.6	6.0	6.4	6.8	7.2	7.6	8.0	8.4	8.8	9.2	9.6	10.0	10.4
A	14o	5.6	6	6.6	7.1	7.6	8.0	8.4	8.8	9.4	9.8	10.4	10.8	11.2	11.6	12.2
D	16o	6.4	6.9	7.6	8.1	8.6	9.1	9.8	10.3	10.8	11.3	12.0	12.5	13.0	13.5	14.0
E	18o	7.2	7.8	8.6	9.2	9.8	10.4	11.0	11.5	12.1	12.8	13.4	14.0	14.6	15.2	16.0
	20o	8.2	8.9	9.6	10.3	11.0	11.6	12.4	13.0	13.7	14.5	15.0	15.6	16.4	17.0	17.8
A	22o	9.2	10	10.7	11.4	12.2	12.9	13.6	14.3	15.1	16.0	16.8	17.5	18.2	18.9	19.8
N	24o	10	10.9	11.8	12.5	13.4	14.2	15.0	15.8	16.8	17.6	18.4	19.2	20.2	21.0	21.8
G	26o	11	12	12.8	13.8	14.7	15.7	16.6	17.4	18.4	19.3	20.2	21.0	22.0	22.9	23.8
L	28o	12	13	13.9	15.0	16.0	17.0	18.0	18.9	20.0	21.0	22.0	23.0	24.0	25.0	26.0
E	30o	13	14	15.1	16.2	17.3	18.5	19.6	20.6	21.7	22.8	24.0	25.0	26.1	27.3	28.2
Inches of pitch

The blade angle is set when the hub of the propeller is mounted on the shaft. To set blade angle you must use the letter configuration in figure 2 that corresponds to your desired blade angle and the rotation of your shaft. The same propeller can be used for either right or left hand rotation.

NOTE: The adjustability allows you optimize the performance of the propeller.

Figure 2 below shows degrees of blade angle not inches of pitch.
To convert from inches of pitch to blade angle use figure 1.

	/\ Right Rotation ___ Left Rotation \/	Pitch	X	Y
		in Degrees	( - )	( . )	(..)
		30o	H	H	V
		28o	D	K	Z
		26o	V	B	N
		24o	S	C	P
		22o	N	D	S
		20o	K	E	T
		18o	E	H	V
		16o	C	K	Z
		14o	T	B	N
		12o	P	C	P
		10o	L	D	S
		0o	K	D	S
		10o	H	D	S
		12o	D	E	T
		14o	B	H	V
		16o	S	A	L
		18o	N	B	N
		20o	K	C	P
		22o	E	D	S
		24o	C	E	T
		26o	A	H	V
		28o	P	A	L
		30o	L	B	N

If the engine does not reach the desired RPM reduce the blade angle.
If the engine exceeds the desired RPM increase the blade angle.
A two degree change in blade angle will change the engine RPM by 13-15%, at the same boat speed.

2) 2 BLADE ASSEMBLY: Make sure that if you receive more than one propeller that you do not interchange parts. Each propeller is individually balanced and if interchanged it will be put out of balance. Please use figure 3 in the instruction book for part number references.



A) Fit the hub (1) to the propeller shaft (2). Be sure that the key (3) is the proper dimension and that the hub slides completely onto the shaft. If you are not sure, remove the key and slide the hub onto the shaft making a mark on the shaft where the hub stops on the shaft. Re-insert the key and slide the hub on to the shaft, if it slides up to your mark , it is fine. If not, you will need to file down the sides or top of the key until the hub slides completely onto the shaft.

B) Two types of nuts are available in the Max-Prop:

1) Drilled Nut: Tighten the nut (4) onto the shaft and secure it with the pin (5) by drilling a hole completely through the nut and shaft (a cobalt drill bit makes this task easier).
2) No Drill Nut: Tighten the nut (A) onto the shaft. Align the groves in the base of the nut with the groves in the central hub, so as to obtain two complete holes allowing insertion of the pins (B). Insert the pins, then rotate the pins are as shown in the drawing below, so as not to interfere with the inserting of the central cone gear.(see Figure Below)



One thread can be exposed aft of either nut system, if more than that are showing it will be necessary to cut off the excess with a hack saw. If too many threads are exposed it will raise the central cone gear (6) and effect the performance of the propeller.

C) On the bottom of the central gear (6) there is a groove on the bottom of one of the teeth, this represents the "X" on the chart in figure 2. Place the tooth with the groove into the corresponding lettered gear on the hub (1).

D) Next engage the gears on the blades with those of the central cone gear as shown in figure 2. When engaging the gears make sure that the correct letters on the blades are inserted into the corresponding"." and ".." in the depth of the teeth of the central cone gear.

NOTE: The letters from "A" to "K" marked on the teeth of one blade must engage with "." On the central cone gear. Also that the letters from "L" to "Z" marked on the teeth of the other blade must engage with ".." on the central cone gear.

E) Keeping the two blades steady and pressed on to the spacer (9), put one half spinner (11) onto the hub. Make sure that the numbers on the blades and the spinner correspond 1 to 1 and 2 to 2. Note: Once one half of the spinner is on you can rotate the blades to make sure that the correct letters on the blades match up with the dots on the central cone gear.

F) Fill the other half of the spinner (11) with a sea water grease. From experience Lubraplate "130 AA" grease has worked the best. Put the second half of the spinner onto the hub. Note: DO NOT USE TEFLON GREASE it will wash out very quickly.

G) Remove the first half of the spinner making sure that the second half is well seated. Grease the first half of the spinner and put it onto the hub and insert all the screws and tighten.

H) To make the blades rotate more freely it is advisable, after tightening all the screws, to give some bedding blows on the spinner and blades with a plastic or wooden mallet.

I) To make sure that the screws will not loosen insert a cotter pin into the head of each screw. Put them on so that if the screw were to loosen it would hit the cotter pin as shown in figure 5. Cut the cotter pins to a length of 1/4" and put them in. A tight tap with a hammer on the head of the pin will spread the ends open, if not use a screw driver to spread them apart.



J) Make sure that the propeller is protected from electrolytic corrosion by using "mil spec" zinc anodes on the propeller shaft. If the propeller has been assembled properly:

• The blades must rotate freely and stop at the blade angle you selected.
• In the feathered position the blades must line up perfectly as in figure 6.
• The propeller must never rotate as shown in figure 7.



3) TROUBLE SHOOTING If the propeller feels stiff or has a hard spot in the rotation systematically go through the points below.

A) If the propeller does not rotate freely, remove some of the grease from the spinner and reassemble.

B) Sometimes it can happen that a small piece of metal or a burr enters the gears, or a piece of the propeller has been dinged; in this case the blade movement can become hard. It is necessary then to do as follows, referring to figure 8.

1) Open the propeller and assemble it again after having taken the central cone gear (6) out, so that the blade and the hub rotation are independent. If the hub rotation is hard, remove 0.01 mm from surfaces "A" with an emery cloth. On the contrary if the blades rotation is hard, remove 0.01 mm from surfaces "B" of the spacer using emery cloth wrapped around a flat file. Try until both hub and blades rotate freely.

2) Again mount the central cone gear (6) and reassemble the propeller. If the propeller rotation still has some hard points remove 0.1 mm with a flat file from surface (C) so that central cone gear sits lower and the clearance between conical gears increases.



4) PROPELLER USE The Max Prop works automatically. By putting the engine in gear the blades will engage in either forward or reverse. The best way to feather the propeller is;

• Power at 2 to 3 knots in forward.
• Kill the engine while still engaged in forward.
• When the engine has stopped, if the shaft is still spinning engage the transmission in reverse to stop the freewheeling.

You can check to see if the propeller is feathered or not by taking the engine out of gear. If the propeller is not feathered the shaft will freewheel like with a fixed blade propeller.

In that case start the engine again and repeat the three steps. If your propeller has been greased properly it will feather in a fraction of a second as soon as you stop the shaft from freewheeling. Once the prop is feathered, you can either leave the transmission in gear or out of gear, it does not matter. DO NOT kill the engine while in reverse. In this case the blades will be in the reverse position and will not feather. You can actually use this feature to drive a shaft alternator.

IMPORTANT: If the Max-Prop is installed on a vessel that can attain sailing speeds over 15 knots, it is MANDATORY to return the transmission to neutral while sailing. If the transmission remains engaged and the propeller were to open (from hitting an object or water flow) it may turn the engine, flooding it, resulting damage to the engine.

5) PROPELLER MAINTENANCE The Max Prop needs to be regreased a minimum of once every two years. We recommend Lubraplate "130 AA" Grease, it is inexpensive and performs better than many other greases.

There are two holes in the spinner of the propeller to grease. Remove the set screw from the forward hole with a #3 metric Allen wrench and screw in the zerc tower, attach your grease gun and fill the propeller with grease until the grease starts to come out between the hub (#1) and the spinners. Replace the set screw and remove the set screw from the more aft hole. Reinstall the zerc tower and attach your grease gun and fill the propeller with grease until the grease starts to come out between the blades and the spinners. Remove the zerc tower and reinsert the set screw into the propeller. Do not leave the zerc tower in the propeller.

• With each pump of the grease gun rotate the propeller from forward to reverse to allow the grease to work through the propeller.
• The numbers above are from Figure 3 at the beginning of this Max-Prop Manual.
• Make sure that you always keep the zinc anodes in good condition.They must be replaced at least once a year or as needed. The propeller must be protected by a lot of zinc. When replacing it make sure that you clean the contact point between the zinc and propeller shaft. Use a wire brush or fine sandpaper to clean the shaft and the inside diameter of the zinc to give the zinc good contact with the propeller.

6) PROPELLER REMOVAL In order to remove the propeller you must first remove the spinner and nut. Be sure only to pull from outside the hub (figure 9). If the surfaces on the hub are hit or dinged it can effect the performance of the propeller.



7) WARNING It is important to follow the instruction below carefully so as to avoid a shock to the gears on the blades and cone gear, that could be damaging to the teeth.

1) When going from forward to reverse and the opposite, it is necessary to idle down and shift at low RPM?s between gears.

2) The propeller body must always be completely filled with a very fluid grease. This is so when you reverse direction the rotation will be smooth with no binding. Binding points will produce a shock and could damage the gears.

4. INSTALLATION VIDEO

http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=max-prop&action=videos_3blade_vp&current=1&media_state=PLAYING&sn=5

5. 악세사리

Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier 1792

Designed specifically for underwater use like on a Max-Prop. PYI's testing has found this product to perform well in many water conditions around the world. Zinc Coat is for use only on bare metals such as steel, stainless steel, cast iron, copper, nibral, bronze, galvanized steel and lead. It forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater metals and running gear and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Because of its smooth, hard surface it will self-clean in service. Note: Do not apply antifouling paint over Zinc Coat. Do not apply on the end cap of the Max-Prop where the sacrificial zinc anode makes contact. This product can only be shipped via Ground transportation. SKU ID: MPPAINT List Price: $16.00 each

LUBRIPLATE #130-AA GREASE

10 ounce tube of Lubraplate 130AA Grease SKU ID: LU130 List Price: $8.00 each

MAX PROP GREASE GUN

This grease gun is designed to fit the 10 oz tube of Lubraplate 130AA Grease. It even works under water. SKU ID: MPGUN List Price: $16.00 each

70mm ZINC BOX

The Zinc Box includes: 3ea 70mm zincs, 3ea 70mm Zinc Screws, and a #4 Allen wrench for the screws. For 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" (30mm to 35mm) shafts. Screw holes are 2" center to center. SKU ID: 70ZINBOX List Price: $40.00 each

70mm 3B SCREW KIT

The Screw Kit includes a full set of screws for your Max-Prop: 4ea spinner screws, 6ea end cap screws, 3ea zinc screws, 10ea cotter pins, 1ea #4 allen wrench, 1ea #5 allen wrench. SKU ID: 703BSCRKT List Price: $22.00 each

                

---

There are two styles of PROP PROTECTOR: the SLIDE-ON and the CLAMP-ON as illustrated and described below:

THE SLIDE-ON ROPE CUTTER

---

Slide-On: Manufactured in one piece with a width of only 0.47" (12mm), it is designed for installations


**see SAILING TODAY-October 2000
where the gap between the propeller and the shaft bearing is small.

A gap of 0.7" (18mm) is sufficient; this includes 1/4" (6mm) of space for water to circulate to the shaft bearing. This type is available for shafts of 3/4" dia. up to 2" and 20mm to 50mm. It simply slides onto the shaft after the propeller has been removed and is secured with a set screw that locates into a small drill dimple made in the shaft.

---

THE CLAMP-ON ROPE CUTTER
Clamp-On Standard: Supplied as an assembly that is split into two halves along the longitudinal axis so that it can be installed on the shaft without removing the propeller. The width is 0.67" (17mm). A gap of 0.9" (23mm) is sufficient; this includes 1/4" (6mm) of space for water to circulate to the shaft bearing. It is clamped onto the shaft by two Allen screws and is also fixed by a set screw that locates into a small drill dimple made in the shaft. This type is available for shafts of 3/4" dia. up to 1 5/8" and 20mm to 40mm.

---

Clamp-On Medium: Manufactured and fitted as the Standard, the width is the same, the only difference is the blade diameter that is 4.13" (105mm). This type is available for shafts of 1 3/4" dia. & 2" and 45mm & 50mm.

---

Clamp-On Large: Manufactured and fitted as above, these large cutters have a width of 0.87" (22mm). A gap of 1.26" (32mm) is sufficient; this includes 0.39" (10mm) of space for water to circulate to the shaft bearing. See chart for size range.

---

Clamp-On Extra Large: For vessels that are built with large struts or stern bearings. They are fitted in the same way as other Clamp-On units and have a width of 1.18" (30mm). A gap of 1.65" (42 mm) is sufficient; this includes 0.47" (12mm) of space for water to circulate to the shaft bearing.

Cutters in the range 2 3/4" to 4" & 65mm to 100mm are for use on large vessels such as trawlers, fishing boats, harbor patrol boats, luxury yachts and cruisers. These cutters have a width of 1.3" (33mm). Not all cutters in this range are held in stock. 

REGULAR INSTALLATION The diagram above illustrates the components associated with the selection and installation of all types of PROP PROTECTOR. Although the diagram shows one type of stern shaft bearing, the following notes apply equally to craft fitted with either P or A struts or brackets. In most installations, the gap between the propeller hub and the shaft bearing is wide enough to allow the installation of a Prop Protector. This gap must be sufficiently wide to accomodate the cutter plus an additional gap of 1/4" (6mm) between the Protector and the bearing. Extra Large cutters need a gap of approximately 1/2" (12mm). This extra gap is necessary to allow water to circulate to the shaft bearing for cooling and lubrication. It also allows for any end float on the prop shaft. If there is excessive end float due to gearbox end play or over-flexible engine mounts, this extra movement has to be provided for. The recommended gaps for all types of Prop Protector are shown in the specifications. If the gap on your shaft is inadequate, it can be increased by any ot the following methods: 1. For adjustments of between 0.08" (2mm) and 0.2" (5mm), it may be possible to disconnect the prop shaft from the prop shaft coupling, move the shaft aft by the required amount and re-tighten the connection. If this method is used it is important to ensure that there is still suficient engagement between the shaft and coupling to maintain a secure connection under full power. 2. For larger adjustments, a coupling spacer or a flexible coupling may be fitted between the coupling and the gearbox flange.		UNDERWATER INSTALLATION One of the unique features of the Prop Protectors is that they can be installed with the vessel afloat. However, the thread-locking compound supplied with each cutter to secure the fastenings is intended for use only with the vessel out of the water; Loctite/ Screwlock will not cure underwater. Owners wishing to carry out underwater installation should not use the fastenings or the thread-locking compound supplied, but should order the special self-locking fastenings we supply for this purpose and which are described below: For all SLIDE-ON CUTTERS FOR 3/4" TO 2" diameter shafts a single set screw is required per cutter for which the cost is $2.00 each. For all CLAMP-ON STANDARD, MEDIUM AN LARGE cutters for shafts 3/4" TO 2 1/2" diameter, one set screw and two cap screws are required per cutter for which the cost is $10.00 per set. For all CLAMP-ON EXTRA LARGE cutters for shafts 1 1/2" TO 4" diameter, a similar but larger set of fastenings is required per cutter for which the cost is $15.00 per set. These fastenings have been fitted with a plastic insert which serves as a self-locking mechanism and can be re-used up to five times. PLEASE ADD THE COST OF THE FASTENINGS YOU REQUIRE TO YOUR ORDER.
OTHER FACTORS TO BE CONSIDERED WHEN SELECTING THE A PROP PROTECTOR ARE: 1. The diameter of the cutter blade must be larger than the diameter of the propeller hub and of the bearing housing in the strut of stern tube. If the blade is shielded by either of these, it cannot cut entangled line. The overlap of the blade should be at least 1/4" (6mm). 2. The minimum gap specified for each type and size of cutter should be of UNTAPERED shaft. If all or part of the gap consists of tapered shaft, a cutter for a slightly smaller shaft diameter should be selected so that it can then be machined to match the taper of the shaft. 3. Prop Protectors may be installed with the vessel afloat. Owners wishing to carry out underwater installation should not use the standard fastenings normally supplied but should order the special, self-locking fastenings available for this purpose. ALL PROP PROTECTORS ARE SUPPLIED WITH A4 STAINLESS STEEL FASTENINGS, ALLEN KEYS, THREAD LOCKING FLUID AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. BOTH TYPES ARE EASY TO INSTALL; THE CLAMP-ON CUTTERS, FOR EXAMPLE, CAN BE INSTALLED IN ABOUT 10 MINUTES.

 

US Order Form

Before ordering refer to the specifications provided in this site and then make sure that the UNTAPERED space on the shaft between the bearing and the propeller hub is enough to accommodate the cutter and that the diameter of the blade is a minimum of 1/2" in diameter larger than the diameter of the bearing housing and of the propeller hub. The drawing below may help you define the dimensions. Then complete the order form below by checking the type and size of the PROP PROTECTOR required and showing the quantity.

MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED FOR
ORDERING AND INSTALLATION


Terms of sale are as follows:

All prices are in US funds for despatch by airmail with 4 to 5 business days transit time. Postage/Handling is $20.00 for one cutter or $25 per pair unless another routing is requested at extra cost. The lead time for types and/or sizes not is stock is about 3 weeks.

State sales tax is not applicable. All orders must be prepaid prior to despatch by check to Yachting Services or by credit card: VISA or MASTERCARD. The prices for self-locking fastenings for underwater installation are shown below. Prices are subject to change.

---

TYPE	BLADE DIAMETER	SHAFT DIAMETER	Qty	Price	Item Total
SLIDE-ON	3.15"	3/4" 7/8" 1" 1 1/8" 1 1/4"		$260.00
	80mm	20mm 22mm 25mm 28mm 30mm		$260.00
SLIDE-ON	3.94"	1 1/4" 1 3/8" 1 1/2"		$270.00
	100mm	30mm 35mm 40mm		$270.00
SLIDE-ON	4.72"	1 3/4" 2"		$300.00
	120mm	45mm 50mm		$300.00
CLAMP ON STANDARD	3.15"	3/4" 7/8 1		$330.00
	80mm	20mm 22mm 25mm		$330.00
CLAMP-ON STANDARD	3.35"	1 1/8" 1 1/4"		$370.00
	3.74"	1 3/8" 1 1/2" 1 5/8"		$370.00
	85mm	28mm 30mm		$370.00
	95mm	35mm 40mm		$370.00
CLAMP-ON MEDIUM	4.13"	1 3/4" 2"		$380.00
	105mm	45mm 50mm		$380.00
CLAMP-ON SPECIAL	5 "	1 3/4" 2"		$435.00
	127mm	45mm 50mm		$435.00
CLAMP-ON LARGE	4.57"	2 1/4" 2 1/2		$395.00
	116mm	55mm 60mm		$395.00
CLAMP-ON EXTRA LARGE**	6"	1 1/2" 1 3/4" 2" 2 1/4" 2 1/2"		$650.00
	150mm	45mm 50mm 55mm 60mm		$650.00
CLAMP-ON EXTRA LARGE**	7.48"	2 3/4" 3" 3 1/4" 3 3/8" 3 1/2" 4"		$1060.00
	190mm	65mm 80mm 82mm 85mm 90mm 100mm		$1060.00
SELF LOCKING FASTENINGS (Required only for underwater installation)	Set screws for all SLIDE-ON cutters 3/4" to 2" diameter shafts			$2.00 each
	Set screws & cap screws for all CLAMP-ON cutters 3/4" to 2" diameter shafts			$10.00 set
	Set screws & cap screws for all CLAMP-ON EXTRA LARGE cutters 1 1/2" to 4" diameter shafts			$15 set
			Merch. Total
			Postage & Handling
			Grand Total(US$)

Prices effective July 01/2007

**EXTRA LARGE CUTTERS ARE NOT STOCKED AND ARE SUBJECT TO A 25% RE-STOCKING CHARGE IF RETURNED FOR CREDIT.

DIAGRAMS

---

The diagrams illustrate the two basic designs in which Prop Protectors are available, the Slide-On and the Clamp-On.

 

SLIDE-ON

CLAMP-ON

The difference between the two types is described below and further details are shown in the technical specifications chart. The term 'gap' refers to the length of exposed shaft between the propeller boss or hub and the shaft bearing boss.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS CHART
UNIT TYPE	FOR SHAFT DIAMETERS	BLADE DIA.	UNIT WIDTH	MIN GAP
SLIDE-ON	3/4"  7/8"  1" 1 1/8"  1 1/4" 20mm 22mm 25mm 28mm 30mm	3.15" 80mm	0.47" 12mm	0.7" 18mm
SLIDE-ON	1 3/8"  1 1/2" 35mm 40mm	3.94" 100mm	0.47" 12mm	0.7" 18mm
SLIDE-ON	1 3/4"  2" 45mm 50mm	4.72" 120mm	0.47" 12mm	0.7" 18mm
CLAMP-ON STANDARD	3/4"  7/8"  1" 20mm 22mm 25mm	3.15" 80mm	0.67" 17mm	0.9" 23mm
CLAMP-ON STANDARD	1 1/8"  1 1/4" 28mm 30mm 25mm	3.35" 85mm	0.67" 17mm	0.9" 23mm
CLAMP-ON STANDARD	1 3/8"  1 1/2"  1 5/8" 35mm 40mm	3.74" 95mm	0.67" 17mm	0.9" 23mm
CLAMP-ON MEDIUM	1 3/4"  2" 45mm 50mm	4.13" 105mm	0.67" 17mm	0.9" 23mm
CLAMP-ON LARGE	2 1/4"  2 1/2" 55mm 60mm	4.57" 116mm	0.87" 22mm	1.26" 32mm
CLAMP-ON SPECIAL	1 3/4"  2 " 45mm 50mm	5" 127mm	0.67" 17mm	0.9" 23mm
CLAMP-ON EXTRA LARGE	1 1/2"  1 3/4"  2" 2 1/4"  2 1/2" 45mm 50mm 55mm 60mm	6" 150mm	1.18" 30mm	1.65" 42mm
CLAMP-ON EXTRA LARGE	2 3/4"  3"  3 1/4" 3 3/8"  3 1/2"  4" 65mm 80mm 85mm 90mm 100mm	7.48" 190mm	1.3" 33mm	1.77" 45mm

NOTE: PROP PROTECTORS are not designed to be used with outboard or stern drive engines. Diagrams are not to scale and the gaps shown are exaggerated for clarity.

[해랑유영호]

허걱~

[시ㅡ커호 유현웅]

이번 부산 ㅡ 대마도 고대항로탐사의. 사전답사격이 되었네요.
이번 탐사의 예상을 하셨던 모양입니다.

[김승규]

이 여행의 악천후에서 저리도록 느낀 것 : 효율좋은 프로펠러가 필요하구나.!!!! 프로펠러 관리가 중요하구나....하는 것...돌아와서 바꾸었음

[김승규]

엇...답글로 작성한다는 것이....수정을 잘 못 눌러서...게시물이 바뀌었습니다.