MTB 기초 상식 핏팅을 제 나름대로 정의하자면

[현미남편]

핏팅을 제 나름대로 정의하자면

1. 자전거의 사용 목적에 부합하며
2. 가장 높은 에너지효율을 발휘하며
3. 부상 위험을 피할 수 있도록
자전거와 인간이 접촉하는 모든 부분의 상대적 위치와
자전거의 조립방식을 조정하는 것을 의미합니다.

저는 핏팅의 넓은 개념으로 세팅을 포함하여 생각했습니다.
예를 들면 브레이크의 힘 효율을 조정하는것, 스프라켓이나 체인링 이빨수를
결정하는것, 혹은 그리스나 윤활유를 바르는것 까지.

이렇게 생각하면 핏팅은 인간과 기계인 자전거가 만나는 방식 그 자체가 되고
각종 정비도 핏팅의 일부이며 자전거의 외양은 피팅의 결과가 됩니다.
참고한 사이트에 나온 말처럼 "핏팅은 인간과 기계의 결혼"입니다.

일반적으로 도로라이딩이 산악라이딩보다 부상위험이 적은 것으로 생각됩니다.
그럼에도 불구하고 도로라이딩은 매우 위험한 부상요인을 가지고 있는데 그이유는 고정된 자세로 페달링을 반복하기 때문에 특정부위의 부하가 누적될 위험성이 있기 때문입니다.
또한 바인딩 페달의 부적절한 사용은 발의 위치를 고정시킴으로써, 무릎이나 발목의 부상을 유발하는 중요한 요인이 될 수 있습니다.

핏팅에 대해 교과서적으로 정리된 사이트의 내용을 요약번역하고 설명에 맞는 사진을 찍어서 첨부하였습니다.
이 글에 있는 제 사진은 글의 내용에 맞추도록 노력하였으나 벽에 기대어 찍었고, 제 훈련양이 충분하지 않으므로 혹 정확한 자세가 아닐수도 있습니다.
천천히 읽어보시면서 개념을 정립하시기 바랍니다.
이 글의 피팅법은 로드바이크에 집중되어있습니다.
참고 : kevinlippert.com

Introduction to bike fit
Positioning a stock road bike is the focus in this article, however this article will serve as a good guide for you in ordering a custom bike if you so desire. Bike positioning, as far as I know, has never really been looked at in complete and I mean complete depth by anyone. Nor has bike fit been looked at as a whole of its parts. I will however try to address this situation the best way I can realistically in an article. This article should serve to shed light and give you a clear understanding of where bike fit has been lacking and what a really good bike fit is.

이 글은 당신에게 바이크핏의 명확한 이해를 위해 작성되었다.

I once read that bike fit is the marriage of man and machine. Well in most cases, I know that bike fit is the brutalization of man by machine. I have come to the realization that bicycle position is one of the most over looked areas of bike racing and it will stay this way until it has been studied thoroughly, realistically and in a holistic way. How many variations of bike fit have you seen out on the road, including the pro peleton? And how many people, even the experts, have you talked to that have conflicting views on bike fit? You see where I am coming from! Unless you have a custom bike built for you, fit by a coach that knows an immense amount about biomechanics, kenesiology, muscle physiology, physics, the dynamics of racing, aerodynamics, mechanics, your medical history and has a lot of common sense, you are not going to get a perfect fit for your own characteristics and differences.

"핏팅은 인간과 기계의 결혼이다."
그럼에도 불구하고 많은 경우 핏팅은 기계가 인간을 학대하는 방식이 되어온 것이다.
커스텀바이크가 아닌 이상 어느 전문가에게 조언을 받더라도 그것은 당신의 특성에 맞는,
당신을 위한 완벽한 핏팅이 될 수는 없다.

Bike fit is as important to your performance as your training, recovery, nutrition and equipment. In some ways probably more important. Proper bike fit will help with prevention of acute and chronic injuries before they happen. Bike fit will help you go faster from better muscle mechanics and will produce less drag for better aerodynamics. Plus, there will be a ton of favorable physiological changes that will occur from a proper bike fit.

핏팅은 훈련, 회복, 영양공급, 장비 만큼이나 중요하다.
적절한 핏팅은 부상을 예방하고 근육역학적으로 더 빨리 갈 수 있게하며,
공기역학적으로 저항을 줄여주는 등 수많은 변화를 일으킬 수 있다.

A lot of cycling injuries, including crashes, are caused by improper bike fit. Crashes that are caused by a bad bike fit are usually because the cyclist's center of gravity was off while cornering. Too much weight over the front tire or the rear tire can cause the rear wheel to skid out, or just having the front wheel not track properly will cause a rider to crash. Having too much weight over the rear wheel, let's say 60% of the rider's weight, will make the front wheel unstable in a corner or down hill going fast, wear the rear tire out prematurely and will make the rear wheel slide out of control in the rain rounding a corner. Having too much weight over the front tire can cause undo back pain by sending all of the road shock up your arms, through your shoulders, then down your erector spinea muscles to your lower back. It can also cause your rear wheel to flip out during a corner, sending you out of control.

앞이나 뒷바퀴로의 부적절한 체중분배는 충돌사고의 원인이 된다.
뒷바퀴에 체중이 지나치게 많이 분배된다면 핸들링이 불안정하게 되며
뒷바퀴를 빨리 마모시키고 뒷바퀴 슬립을 발생시킨다.
앞바퀴에 체중이 많이 분배되면 지면충격이 팔과 어깨와 척추발기근과
허리까지 전달되어 등의 통증을 유발하며 전복사고의 원인이 된다.

Bike fit is also the number #1 cause of knee injuries in cyclists. Always remember this, "If you get hurt, something is wrong that you really need to fix". I mean really wrong, bucko! Your bike fit maybe wrong, your training maybe wrong, you may not know something important or you just basically did something wrong! You need to change what you are doing wrong or it is just going to happen again and again. I wish everything was this simple!

핏팅은 무릎부상의 가장 큰 원인이다.
"만약 어딘가 아프다면 뭔가 고쳐야 할 것이 있음을 의미한다
그것이 훈련방법이든, 핏팅이든.. 고쳐야 한다"

Having a good bike fit is usually more aerodynamic and stable, with your center of gravity in the right position. It is also more comfortable and when you are comfortable on your bike, you will be more efficient and mentally happier, and that translates into faster. When all of the factors of a good bike fit are in place, you will be able to create better leverage on the crank all of the way around the pedal stroke. Using more leg muscles in the strength ratios that they are suppose to be in and being able to access muscles that you normally don't use efficiently do this. You hear people saying that someone has a good spin. Well, that is usually from a very good bike fit, being blessed with good genetics and having good muscle mechanics from practice and doing the right exercises to create good spin. We all know that with good bike fit and proper training, a person will look as if they are riding effortlessly, even at 30 miles per hour.

적절한 핏팅은 더욱 공기역학적이며 안정적이며 편안하고 효율적이며 정신적
편안함, 그리고 좋은 자세를 유발한다.

When it comes to a proper bike fit, you have to look at every person somewhat differently based on their own problems and strengths, while still following some general guidelines and rules of biomechanics, aerodynamics, common sense, etc. I also have some guidelines that I will give you that were not previously discussed in bike fit articles or guidelines by anyone that I know of.

핏팅을 위해 생체역학, 공기역학, 상식, 일반적 가이드라인등에 기초하여
개개인의 특성에 맞게 적용한다.

One truth that I believe is a person cannot truly fit him or herself completely by feel. That to me is the largest ball of crap. A rider cannot see what is going on while they are riding. The only self-sizing, I believe that can be done, is though the use of video analysis and a lot of knowledge of what is going on. I strongly suggest that everyone have a licensed cycling coach position him or her with some good guidelines. A rider just cannot see how they look on a bike. On the other hand, a coach cannot feel the aches and pains that a bad bike fit will cause. So good interaction and good feed back between the rider and coach is very important.

라이더는 스스로의 느낌에 의해서는 완벽한 핏팅을 이룰 수 없으므로
코치에게 가이드라인을 제시받는것이 중요하다.

To position someone, you have to follow a few positioning rules. Which I will give you, not just yet. Then you have to use your eyes and intuition to create the best fit for the cyclist. You have to look at a person's body style (ectomorph (thin build), endomorph (medium build with more body fat) or mesomorph (very large build with low body fat), flexibility, bone structure and alignment, muscle and tendon length while remembering any chronic injuries. A proper bike fit will make the cyclist look like they belong on that bike and a bad bike fit will make them look and ride like a circus clown on the wobbly bike.

타인의 핏팅을 도와줄때는 제시될 기준에 따라 체형, 체지방, 유연성, 골격구조,
뼈의 정렬, 근육과 건의 길이, 부상경력등을 살핀다.
적절한 핏팅은 라이더가 자전거의 일부인것처럼 보이게 하는 반면
부적절한 핏팅은 흔들리는 자전거 위의 광대처럼 보이게 한다

A lesson in Biomechanics
Understanding biomechanics will help you understand the how and why of a good bike fit. It will help you understand why I differ in some areas than others when it comes to a realistic bike fit. In the area of cycling biomechanics, you have to start at the analysis of the pedal stroke, femur length, tibia and fibula length, pelvic structure, torso strength and length, muscle length, physics and flexibility.

생체역학 변수 : 페달스크로크, 대퇴부와 하퇴부의 길이, 골반구조, 상체의 힘과
길이, 근육길이, 유연성

A couple of truths I should point out are that opposing muscle groups can not contract at the same time, for example: the Quads can not contract at the same time as the hamstrings; sounds simple, but you don't know how many people forget this. Also in any movement there are muscles that are primary movers and secondary movers. This means when you move a bone in a direction, there are a set of muscles that primarily move that bone, while other sets of muscles are involved with stabilizing the bone and assisting the primary movers with moving that bone.

서로반대의 근육은 동시에 수축할 수 없다. 한편, 모든 운동에는 주근육과 부근육의
운동이 있다.

Pedal Stroke
In simple terms, the pedal stroke is the intense contraction of certain muscles at certain times through out the circular pedal motion. This analysis of when the muscles actually fire in the pedal stroke has been done through the clinical testing and if you were to look at a pedal stroke as a clock, you will see different muscles firing more intensely at different times around the face of this clock. From about the top or 12 o'clock position of the pedal stroke to about 3 o'clock, the glutetal or butt muscles are the primary movers with other secondary muscles also involved. Then from 3 to 5:30, the quadriceps are the major muscles used for downward movement. From about 4:30 to 6, the calf muscles are used to keep the crank moving around. Then from 5 to about 8 o'clock, the anterior, lateral leg muscles (front of lower leg) and glutetal muscles are firing to start the crank in an upward motion. Then, from 8 to about 9:30, the hamstrings are moving the crank up. I should point out that the hamstrings are not used for the pedal revolution that much. They are not utilized to there maximum. Last, from 9 to about 12 o'clock the hip flexors and iliopsoas muscles move the crank that last bit. These muscles are the real ones that help move the crank arm up on the backside of the pedal revolution.

페달 스트로크


12:00 ~ 3:00 : 둔근(엉덩이 뒷부분)


3:00 ~ 5:30 : 대퇴사두근(넓적다리 앞부분)


4:30 ~ 6:00 : 장딴지(종아리 뒷부분)


5:00 ~ 8:00 : 전방, 측방 하퇴근육/ 둔근 (종아리 옆/앞부분, 엉덩이)


8:00 ~ 9:30 : 슬굴곡근(넓적다리 뒷부분)


9:00 ~ 12:00 : 둔근굴근(엉덩이 옆, 앞부분)
(** 이상을 다른 관점에서 정리하자면, 스트로크의 윗부분에서는 둔근, 중간부분에서는 대퇴근, 아랫부분에서는 하퇴근이 주 사용근육이 됩니다.)

After looking at your pedal stroke, correcting pedal technique will translate into power and efficiency. Having a good spin will allow you to create more of an even pressure on the crank, 360 degrees around the pedal stroke; making you much faster. However, spin scan analysis has shown that there is no prefect way to create an even pressure all the way around the pedal stroke. The majority of power created during the pedal stroke is from the Quadriceps with the crank positioned at the 3:30 to 5 o'clock position. Even with the worlds greatest spinners there is still a big power spike at that 3:30 to 5 o'clock crank position from the Quadriceps.

좋은 스핀이란 360도의 크랭크회전의 방향으로 가능한 많은 압력을 가하는것이다.
그러나 분석결과는 회전 내내 일정한 힘을 가하는 것이 불가능하다는 것을 보여준다.
페달 스트로크의 주된 출력은 3:30 ~ 5:00 방향에서 대퇴사두근에 의해 발생한다.

Seat tube angle
Now on to seat angle! The forward angle of your hips on the saddle and the diaphragm compression from that V thing that your upper body and legs create while riding, along with Femur length (thigh) in relation to tibia (lower leg) and fibula (lower leg) length will determine your seat tube angle and your set back from your bottom bracket. My way of determining set back is the distance between your bike's bottom bracket and the front tip of your saddle. This is also called your saddles fore and aft position. A longer femur will make you have an ever so slightly pushed back saddle position or a slightly larger set back. However, this one area that I believe a lot of bike manufactures still have bike manufacture wrong. Most frame manufactures still use the old, out dated European standards that are incorrect in relation with true biomechanics and physics. Seat tubes should be steeper, top tubes should be longer than they are now and chain stays lengths should be made to create a correct and proper weight distribution.

싯튜브 각도
안장에붙은 엉덩이의 각도, 횡격막 압축, 대퇴부와 하퇴부의 길이가 싯튜브 각도와
셋백(안장 앞뒤 조정)을 결정할 것이다. 내가 셋백을 재는 방법은 바텀브라켓으로 부터
안장 앞부분까지의 (수평길이)를 측정하는 것이다. 대퇴가 길면 셋백이 커질것이다.

In my eval‎uation and theory of bike sizing, if you look at the position of the hips and the compression of diaphragm while sitting on the saddle, you will see that the seat tube angles of all racing road and track bikes should be between 74 and 76 degrees. I know what you are saying, "Where the h*** did you come up with that theory?" If you look at the angle of the hips when you are in a riding position, the Quadriceps tendons should come off the bone at an angle as close to 90 degrees as possible. That is the angle where tendon connection to the bone is the strongest, thus, the least likely to develop tendonitis and create a stronger muscle contraction. Along with the correct knee angle of 120 at the crank 3 o'clock position and the least diaphragm compression (so you can get more oxygen in your system), a 74 to 76 degree seat angle looks like the winner. 76 degrees being for smaller riders and 74 degrees being for riders with bikes greater than 56-cm seat tube lengths. With this seat angle and proper positioning, you will be able to develop more power than ever before. The old adage of the more laid back the seat tube the more comfortable the bike is, is just the fact that the rider is not over the front wheel, making all of the road shock translate up the shoulders and down the spine. The shallow angle of 72 to 73 degrees in the laid back seat angle compresses the diaphragm in most people, making it harder to take in a full breath while under exercised induced pressure. Your upper body and legs create a V when you ride a bike and the lower you go to be more aerodynamic, the more closed off the V gets. This stretches out the hamstrings too much, pulls the hips out of position, compresses the diaphragm and makes it so the quadriceps do not work as well as they could. A more laid back seat tube angle may be all right for mountain bikers, rider with very long femurs and weaker riders because they sit up straighter, but not for a lot of riders. What I am talking about is road and track bikes for racers.

모든 로드와 트랙바이크의 싯튜브 각은 74에서 76도 사이에 있어야 한다. 크랭크가 3시방향에 있을때 무릎각도는 120도가 되도록 하며 횡경막의 압박을 최소화해야한다.
(** 어쨌든 싯튜브 각도보다 중요한것은 비비축과 안장의 상대적인 위치일 뿐이므로 셋백으로 핏팅한다면 싯튜브 각도 자체는 현실적으로 중요한 문제가 아니게 됩니다.)



Pelvic Structure
Genetic pelvic structure will typically determine your Q-angle (Quadriceps Angle). A wider pelvis or having a longer femur neck will usually be easier to fit on a bike. The description of Q-angle is "the line of the quadriceps pull is approximated by a line extending from the anterior superior iliac spine through the center of the patella and from the tibial tubercle to the center of the patella". The normal Q-angle is less than 20 degrees. In cycling, when someone mentions Q-angle, they are typically talking about the distance between the cranks arms or the distance between a cyclist feet when they are in their pedals. If your legs are parallel to each other when you are on your bike and your feet are in the pedals, you will usually have a good Q-Angle. When you have a good Q-Angle, you are lot less likely to have bike-fitting problems or bike fit caused injuries to the inner and outer leg muscles and tendons. If you don't have any spinal alignment problems or bad genetics, when you walk, your legs generally stay perpendicular to the ground and they are parallel to each other. When you sit on a bike, look at your legs. Are they parallel to each other or aren't they? Have your coach look!

골반 구조
유전적 골반구조는 전형적으로 Q-angle을 결정한다. 넓은 골반이 보통 핏팅에 유리하다. 통상적 의미로 Q-angle이라 하면, 크랭크암 사이의 거리나, 자전거탑승시 두 발 사이의 거리를 의미한다. 탑승시 두 다리가 서로 평행을 이루면 Q-angle에 맞는 좋은 핏팅을 이루었다고 볼 수 있다. 이렇게 되면 핏팅으로 인한 근육 부상의 위험이 적어진다. 보통 걸을때 두 다리는 평행을 이루게 된다. 자전거에 올라탔을때도 이러한 것이 적절하다. 두 다리가 평행이 되는지 코치에게 점검을 받으라.
(** Q-angle 대신 크랭크 사이의 간격을 의미하는 Q-factor 혹은 tread에 대해 sheldon brown은 가능한 크랭크 사이 간격이 좁은 것이 좋다고 말하는데 그 이유는 걷는데 최적화된 인간의 하체는 사실상 q-factor가 없는 것이 이상적이기 때문이라고 합니다.
관련 : http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_tp-z.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cranks.html
이는 두 다리가 평행이 되도록 해야 한다는 본문 내용과는 차이가 있습니다.)

When looking for a bottom bracket, crank, pedal and shoe combination, you need to try and find one that lets you get your legs as parallel to each other as possible. For the most part these days, it is the shoe and pedal combination that you have to really look at. One thing to remember is that your legs were not made to be as efficient walking or pedaling when they are at an increased open angle. Try walking with your legs about 3 feet apart. Feels funny, doesn't it? Now try walking normally. It feel's much more efficient. Pedaling is the same way. You may only have a small angle to you legs, but your body sees it as very bad. And over time small Q-angle problems can turn into a big problem. Besides, the more open your legs are, the more stress you put on the lower body stabilizing muscles. Using energy that would be better used driving the crank around.

BB나 크랭크, 페달, 슈즈의 조합을 결정할때 두 다리가 가능한 평행이 되도록 선택해야한다. 실상 요즘은 대부분 페달과 슈즈의 조합에서 결정될 것이다. 다리를 좌우로 약간 벌리고 걸어보라. 이는 어정쩡하고 비효율적임을 바로 느낄 수 있다. 페달링도 마찬가지이다. 이러한 작은 핏팅문제가 누적되면 심각해질 수 있다. 다리사이가 벌어지면 하체의 부 근육의 스트레스가 증가한다.



The trunk. No, not an elephant trunk! Your Trunk!
Next, you have your trunk. That means your stomach and back muscles. They are attached to the pelvis, as are the leg muscles. What does this mean? When the stomach and back muscles are weak, they let the leg muscles move the pelvis around on the saddle like a wobbly tire. Making the pedal stroke inefficient and causing back pain. You need to have a stable platform from which your muscles can contract. This especially true when you are talking about muscles that cross over two joints to work, like rectus femorus.

몸통근육
몸통근육은 다리와 마찬가지로 골반에 부착되어있다. 만약 배나 등 같은 상체근육이 충분히 버티지 못한다면 다리 근육 사용에 따라 골반이 출렁이게 되어 비효율적이며 등의 통증을 유발한다. 상체근육은 골반이 안장에 완전히 고정되도록 튼실한 받침이 되어주어야 한다.

When riding, your pelvis or butt should look and feel like it is stuck to the saddle. This will make the most use of the muscle contraction when you move the crank around in its circular motion. The old way of setting your saddle up to the point just before your hips start rocking has some truth to it.

라이딩시에는 골반과 엉덩이가 마치 안장에 완전히 고정된 느낌을 받아야 한다.

Flexibility
Do you want to be in a good aerodynamic position when you are riding? You need to have good flexibility. That is where muscle and tendon length becomes a factor. Remember, muscle and tendon length is somewhat controlled by genetics. You can only stretch your muscles and tendons so far based on what your parents gave you. However, for most people, with proper stretching, can become pretty flexible. So, if you have very little flexibility from muscular overuse, age, lack of stretching or genetic structure, you will not be able to achieve a good aerodynamic position comfortably. Translation? Going slower! Don't you just hate riding slower?

유연성
공기역학적 자세를 위해서는 좋은 유연성을 갖추어야 한다. 유연성은 상당부분 유전적으로 결정되지만, 스트레칭등의 적절한 훈련에 의해 공기역학적자세를 갖기에 충분한 유연성을 획득할 수 있다.

Feet
Most people aren't aware that their feet can be different lengths. One foot can be a size 9 and the other can be a size 9½. Does this sound like you? This makes the old positioning (the pedal axle under the ball of each foot) incorrect. I am amazed that this wasn't caught before. If you were to have one foot that was 1/2 an inch longer than the other, which is not completely unusual, and you placed the ball of each foot over the pedal spindle. You would make your hips go diagonal to the saddle. Not perpendicular; the way your hips should be. Take your feet and place one about a foot ahead of the other one. Look at your hips in this position. This is the position your hips have when you place the ball of each foot over top of the pedal spindles. This position is exaggerated of course, but not to your body. This situation of having your hips even a little diagonal to the saddle will cause saddle sores from to much pressure on one side of the pelvis and will make one side of your musculature work a lot harder than the other. I recommend that when you set up your shoes, that you measure your feet to the ball of the each foot and average that measurement to set up your shoes.

발
양쪽 발이 서로 다른 사이즈를 갖는 경우가 있다. 이러한 경우 고전적인 셋팅방법(볼조인트가 페달축과 일치하도록 하는 것)에 문제가 있을 수 있다.



(고전적 클리트 핏팅법)
만약 두 발의 길이가 서로 다른 경우, 양쪽 발의 볼조인트(발에서 폭이 가장 넓은 부분)가 페달 축과 일치하도록 한다면, 위에서 보았을때 두 엉덩이를 이은 선이 자전거 진행방향과 수직이 되지 않을 것이다. 이것은 안장에 편향된 쓸림을 유발하며, 양쪽 다리의 근육 사용에 불균형을 초래한다. 클리트 위치를 셋팅할때, 양쪽 발의 볼조인트 까지의 길이를 평균하여 같은 위치에 클리트가 오도록 하는 것을 권장한다.
(**결국 원문에 충실하게 적용하자면,
1. 양쪽 발의 크기 같다면, 양쪽 클리트가 각각 신발의 같은 위치에 장착되도록 해야 하고.
2. 양쪽 발의 크기가 다르다면 발뒤꿈치부터 복숭아뼈, 즉 하퇴와 발이 연결되는 지점까지의 길이 차이만큼 클리트의 위치차이를 두어야 한다.
원문에서 정확히 지적하지는 않았지만 볼조인트의 위치만큼 중요한것이 바로 발목의 위치, 즉 복숭아뼈(내측과)의 위치일 것입니다.)

Shoes
For me, shoes are part of the bike because they connect you to the bike and can restrain your biomechanics. Your cycling shoes should be comfortable, there's that word comfortable again. You should try on shoes with an orthotic or supporting insole. Unless the shoe manufacture has made the sole so there is good arch support for the arch on the inside to your foot and for the metatarsal arches, just behind the ball of your foot, you should purchase orthotics. I highly recommend that you purchase good orthotics by a podiatrist or a reputable chiropractor before you purchase your cycling shoes anyway. Even if your cycling shoes have good support, you should be wearing orthotics in your regular shoes. I know this because I was involved in a study at the Michigan State University biomechanics lab and realized from the data generated, that everyone should be using orthotics. Orthotics make you stable when you walk and stand, even if you have good arches. They make all of your muscles work less while trying to stand or walk, meaning you will use less energy and not become as tired as quickly. Orthotics also give you a better bed for your feet to press against when you pedal. If you look, you will realize that most shoe manufactures just make foot covering these days with very little or no support. Your feet don't like to mashed flat repeatedly, I know mine don't! Orthotics take up extra room in the shoes, so you might need to purchase a little larger size shoe. When looking for cycling shoes, make sure that they are snug around the heel. You should not be able to move your heel up and down. The shoes should also fit well in the toe box with a little side-to-side movement. They should not pinch your toes together. Your feet will swell a little during the day and during rides, so remember to look for a little room up where your toes are when trying on shoes. Your shoes should have a little room between your feet and the end of the shoe too, about ½ thumb width. The small crease on the top of the shoe at the ball of the foot should not pinch your foot either. Poorly fit shoes will cause blisters, numbness, cramping and will cut off blood flow to your feet.

슈즈
(전문가의 조언을 받아) 모든 슈즈의 밑창, 아치 부분에 교정장치를 덧댈것을 권장한다. (이것은 미시건주립대학의 연구결과로 부터 알게된 것이다.) 당신의 발이 좋은 아치형태라 할지라도 이 교정지지대는 더욱 안정하게 해줄 것이고 에너지 소모를 줄여 빨리 피로해지지 않도록 해주고 페달에 힘을 가할때 좋은 지지대가 되어줄 것이다. 교정장치는 공간을 필요로 하므로 약간 큰 사이즈의 슈즈를 구입해야 할 것이다. 슈즈를 구입할때에는 뒤꿈치 주변이 잘 맞는지 살펴서 발꿈치가 쉽게 빠지지 않도록 한다. 발가락 부분은 잘 맞으면서 좌우로 약간의 여유가 있어야 하고 찡기지 않아야 한다. 발가락 끝과 슈즈 사이에 엄지손가락 절반 두께의 공간이 있어야 한다. 잘 맞지 않는 슈즈는 물집, 저림, 경련을 발생시킨다.

Frame Size
After shoes on the order of bike positioning, is selecting the proper frame size. There are many opinions on this. However, most will get you to the same starting point. For a stock bike, I have the rider stand with his/her back against a wall and their feet about 6 inches apart. Then measure from the floor to their crotch. Take that measurement and multiple by .65. That should be the seat tube length from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the top tube. If you are buying an off the shelf bike frame, this way of frame sizing seems to be the most accurate.

프레임 사이즈
여기에는 많은 지론이 있지만 일반적인 출발점은 비슷하다. 발을 15cm정도 간격으로 두고 등을 벽에 대고 선 후, 바닥으로 부터 가랑이까지의 길이를 잰다. (이 값이 바로 inseam length) 이 길이에 0.65를 곱한다. 이 값이 BB 중심부터 탑튜브 중심까지 이어지는 싯튜브의 길이가 되어야 한다.



(** 여기서 한가지 주의사항은 그림의 책을 압박이 느껴질 정도로 바짝 올려야 한다는 것입니다.)



Things you should look at when buying a stock road bike are:
A bike that is 65% of your inseam length.
A more aggressive seat angle (74 degrees for tall riders to 76 degrees for short riders).
A top tube that is longer (2 to 3 cm longer than the seat tube length for most riders, except for very tall people and Italians, then it should be roughly the same as the seat tube length). When you are in the drops with your head inline with your spine, like when you walk, your nose should be directly over the center of the head tube.
A bike that lets you get the proper weight distribution of 50%-55% on the back tire and 45%-50% on the front tire, when still allowing the right positioning guidelines.
If you already have a bike and are not planning to go out and buy a new one, you'll just have to make do. Who knows, your bike may just be the right one after all?

당신이 선택해야 하는 자전거는
다리길이(inseam length)의 65% 크기의 사이즈의 자전거.
56이상의 프레임에서는 74도, 작은 프레임에서는 76도의 싯튜브 각도.
싯튜브보다 2~3cm 긴 탑튜브. (예외 : 키가 매우 크거나 이탈리아인은 거의 같은 길이)
드랍을 잡고 머리와 척추가 일자가 되도록(걸을때처럼) 하였을때 당신의 코는 해드튜브 중심의 수직 위에 있어야 한다.



탑승시 뒷바퀴에 50~55%, 앞바퀴에 45~50%의 체중분배.
If you are ordering a custom bike, go to a bike shop that has a bike-sizing jig. Make sure that your coach is with you and get set up using these guidelines. Then you will have a correct bike that handles like you are riding on rails.

Crank Length
Crank length is usually based on inseam length and that is a good starting point. Here are the usual crank lengths based on inseam:
Riders inseam of less than 29 inches = 165 mm cranks
Inseam of 29 to 32 inches = 170 mm cranks
Inseam of 32 to 34 inches = 172.5 mm cranks
Inseam of 34 and higher = 175 mm cranks
Now, that is a good starting point. However, it is not the definitive answer. Crank length needs to be based on femur length and not only on inseam length. Riders with shorter calves and longer femurs may go to longer cranks if they like, but riders with long calves and short femurs should stick with shorter cranks. You do not want your knees hitting your chest when you pedal. That is completely inefficient.


크랭크길이
크랭크길이는 일반적으로 다리길이에서 출발한다. 다리길이(inseam size)에 따라
74cm 미만 = 165mm
74~81cm = 170mm
81~86.5cm = 172.5mm
86.5cm 초과 = 175mm
로 결정하지만 완벽한 답은 아니다. 크랭크길이는 다리 길이 뿐만 아니라 대퇴골의 길이에 따라서도 변화되어야 한다. 대퇴가 상대적으로 긴 라이더는 더 긴 크랭크를 사용할 수 있다. 하퇴가 긴 라이더가 긴 크랭크를 사용하면 무릎이 가슴을 치게 되는 문제가 발생한다.

Handle bar Width
To get the correct handlebar width, just measure the distance to the outside of your shoulders, that measurement should be the measurement to the outside of the handlebars. Wider handlebars than that measurement will be less aerodynamic for you and smaller handlebars will constrict your rib cage, making it harder to take in a full breath. If your handlebar selection has drop (deep or shallow), it is your preference. Larger hands do well in deep drops.

핸들바 너비
어깨의 바깥쪽 너비가 핸들바의 바깥 너비와 일치하도록 한다. 더 넓으면 공기역학적으로 불리하며, 더 좁으면 충분한 호흡이 어려워진다. 핸들바의 깊이는 취향에 따른다.



(윗 사진과 같이 측정하면 핸들바의 바깥이 아니라 C-C 사이즈와 동일하게 됩니다.)



(BikeFitting.com의 자료, 그러나 이 사진에서의 팔의 각도는 120도 보다는 140도에 가깝다.)
Stem Length
If your top tube length is right on the way it should be with your nose over the center of the head tube while you are in your drops, your stem length is probably going to be between 10 to 12 cm. A lot of riders like longer stems; I don't know why? If your stem is too long, it will stretch your back out too far. Causing your shoulders to come up towards your ears. This means upper back pain and soreness in the rhomboids and trapezoids. It also means, that the rider cannot flatten his or her back correctly. They will always want to have a hump in their shoulders. A shorter stem has less torsion flex, so when you sprint or climb, your handlebars are rock solid. Meaning greater power transfer into your bike. In my eyes, everyone's bike fit should be so good that you only need a 10 to 11 cm stem.


스템 길이
탑튜브 길이가 위에서 설명한 바와 같이 적당하다면 스템길이는 10~12cm 사이가 될 것이다. 많은 라이더들이 긴 스템을 원하지만, 스템이 너무 길면 등이 너무 펴짐으로써 윗등의 통증을 유발한다. 짧은 스템은 더 단단하므로 언덕에서 스프린트를 할때 더 견고하게 지탱해줄 것이다. 대부분 스템이 10cm 혹은 11cm에서 결정되도록 하여야 한다.

Saddle selection
As for saddles, you may need to try a couple before you find the right one for you. Saddles should feel comfortable (there's that comfortable word again) and not like you are riding on a tractor seat. Too wide of a saddle can cause saddle sores by putting too much pressure on the buttocks.

안장
두세개의 안장을 써보고 편안한 것으로 결정하라. 안장이 지나치게 넓으면 엉덩이에 압력을 가하여 쓸리게 된다.
(BikeFitting 에서는 그림의 녹색선과 같이 안장 윗면이 수평이 되도록 권장하고 있으며 이는 일반적인 세팅법이다.)



안장이 수평이 되도록 해야 하는 이유 및 안장의 폭에 관한 참고자료 :
http://www.bikefitting.com/English/Theory/Comfort.aspx
Setting your Position
First, I suggest you see a reputable chiropractor and get your body in correct alignment. Not only will your bike fit inefficiently, but also your body cannot function efficiently with structural imbalances. These imbalances (misalignment) cause aberrant biomechanics, premature fatigue and injuries. Chiropractic care will help with your bike fit. A tilted pelvis to one side can cause the coach to think that you have a leg length discrepancy when you don't. Only 2% of people have a true leg length discrepancy and that can only be verified with a leg length study, done by a doctor with x-rays. A properly aligned bone structure will give you greater efficiency, thus making you faster and more comfortable. Along with Chiropractic adjustments, just before the bike is fit to you, you should warm up easily for 15 minutes or so and then do stretching for about 10 minutes. This will lengthen the muscles and tendons for a better bike fit.


자세
먼저 척추 교정 전문가의 교정을 받으라. 자세의 불균형은 신체적으로 효율적이지 못할뿐 아니라 핏팅도 제대로 될 수 없다. 골반의 기울어짐은 다리길이의 불일치로 오해될 수 있다. 핏팅을 하기 전에 15분의 워밍업과 약 10분간의 스트레칭을 실시하라.
Shoes again
To position shoes, the person should stand with their shoulders, butt, and heels back against a wall. The feet should point out straight, not duck footed or pigeon toed, while the heels are back against the wall. Take the measurement from the back of each foot to the ball of the foot. Then take the average of those two measurements. Now, measure from the back of the inside of the heel cup on the shoe to that average measurement. You can also measure from the back of the shoe, but add about 1/8". This is about the thickness of the back of most shoes. With that measurement, mark the bottom of each sole on the inner edge with a paint pencil at that average ball of foot measurement. After the cleat is installed, that mark should be over the middle of the pedal spindle. The rider will have to rely on a coach to help them with setting the cleats in the side-to-side position for the Q-angle. The rider needs to get that Q Angle right and the riders cannot see it themselves. A coach will need to see the position of the legs as the rider pedals to get the side-to-side cleat position right.


슈즈
클리트 위치를 결정하기 위해서, 어깨와 엉덩이와 뒤꿈치를 벽에 대고 선다. 두 발은 서로 평행이 되도록 한다. 뒤꿈치로부터 볼조인트까지의 길이를 측정하여 평균을 구한다. 이 값에 신발의 뒤쪽 벽 두께를 재어 더한 후 그 길이를 신발 밑바닥에 표시해둔다. 클리트를 장착한 후 페달의 중심축이 이 표시선의 수직 위에 오도록 한다. (** 룩 등 일부 클리트에는 페달중심축 위치가 표시되어 있다.) 클리트의 좌우 위치를 정하기 위하여 코치의 도움을 받아 Q-angle을 측정하도록 한다.

Seat height
After the shoes are set, it is time to start the process on the bike. Set the bike up on a wind trainer and make sure that the bike is level. You can do this by putting a small level on the top tube or if the floor is level, you can measure to the center of the wheel skewers. If the measurement is the same, the bike is level. Also make sure that the bike is stable and is not tipped to one side.
Next, set the saddle to the seat post is centered in the middle of the saddles rails. I do not like the seat posts that have a set back; they usually mess up the weight distribution, putting too much weight on the back tire. So if you can, get a seat post that clamps the saddle rails inline with the seat tube.

안장 높이
자전거를 트레이너에 올리고 수평이 되도록 맞춘다.
싯포스트가 안장레일의 중간에 고정되도록 한다. 셋백이 있는 싯포스트보다는 일자 싯포스트를 사용하라.

The rider should then get on the bike a ride for a minute or two getting adjusted to the saddle position. Then, with the rider unclipping one foot, take that crank arm and line it up with the seat tube, the crank arm should be pointing down with the pedal away from the seat tube.
Gently straighten out that sides leg out and set that heel over the pedal, there should approximately 5 to 7 mm of distance between the bottom of the shoe and the top of the pedal. Move the saddle up or down to get the correct distance between the bottom of the shoe and the top of the pedal. After you do one side, check the other to see of it is the same. If not, just average the two to come somewhere in that 5 to 7 mm range. 5 to 7 mm is about the width of a small finger and it is does not have to be exactly 5 mm, just close enough.

안장 위치에 적응되도록 1~2분 정도 페달링을 한 후, 페달을 빼고 크랭크가 아래쪽으로 싯튜브와 일렬이 되도록 한다. 다리를 부드럽게 펴서 발뒤꿈치를 페달위에 둔다. 이때 슈즈 바닥과 페달 윗면 사이에 약 5~7mm 의 간격이 존재해야 한다. 반대쪽도 실시하여 같은지 확인한다. 만약 양쪽의 간격이 다르다면 두 값을 평균한 위치로 안장 높이를 결정한다.



After this is set, the riders hips should not rock up and down like a couple of pistons, and the back of the knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke should still be soft. Plus, the rider should be able to straighten their leg out with the crank arm at the 6 o'clock position and have the bottom of their heel about 1 cm below the centerline of the pedal spindle. If after riding there is pain behind the knee, the saddle may need to come down a little, sometimes no more than 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch.

페달링을 할때 엉덩이가 위아래로 움직이지 않아야 하고, 페달스트로크의 맨 아래쪽에서 무릎 뒷부분이 약간 접혀야 한다. 크랭크가 6시방향일때 다리를 쭉 펴면 뒤꿈치 아랫면이 페달축보다 약 1cm 아래에 위치하도록 해야 한다.



라이딩 후 무릎 뒷부분에 통증이 있다면 안장을 조금 내려야한다.
One more thing is that the rider needs to learn to pedal with their heels down. You have no idea how many riders I have seen that ride with their heels up. The only thing that does is makes the calf muscles overwork and cramp up. When doing a bike fit the rider needs to be fit while they have their heels down and then learn to ride that way. The old adage of, "heels down, pedal round" is one of those old sayings that is, oh so true.


뒤꿈치를 내리고 페달링 하는것을 배워야 한다. 뒤꿈치를 올리고 라이딩 하는 사람들을 수없이 보아왔다. 이것은 장딴지근육을 피로하게 만들고 근육경련을 유발한다. 뒤꿈치를 내리고 둥글게 패달링하라.

Fore and Aft Position
After the seat height is set pretty good, the rider should spin around a couple of times and stop the crank arms at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. The bottom of the feet should be level after getting the crank arms at these places.
With the crank arms still at 3 and 9, drop a plumb bob (a small weight attached to a string) from the inside of the leg at center of the knee joint. This is the point where the inside of the knee sticks out the most towards the other knee. In the past, it was always measured from the back of the kneecap. Well, I hate to disappoint you, but that is not where the knee is in the strongest position. It is the center of the knee where the Anterior Crucial Ligament and Posterior Crucial Ligament cross that should be measured from. This is roughly 1/2 inch or 12.7 mm behind the knee cap. Dangling from this position, the plumb bob line should pass in the middle of the pedal spindle. Not in ze front und not behind, but right in ze mittle!

셋백(안장 앞뒤 포지션)
안장높이를 셋팅한 후 스핀을 하다가 3시 방향에서 멈추고 발바닥이 수평이 되도록 한다. 이때 실추를 무릎관절 중앙 안쪽(몸 중앙쪽)에서 떨군다. 과거에는 슬개골 뒷면에서 내렸으나 이는 옳지 않다. 무릎관절의 중앙은 슬개골 뒤로 약 13mm 지점이 된다. 이지점에서 실추를 내리면 실이 패달 축 중심을 지나도록 한다.



After the saddle height and the fore and aft position is checked this way, there needs to be a degree angle of between 115 to 120 between the thigh bone (humorous) and the lower leg (fibula and tibia) when the crank is at the 3 o'clock position and the bottom of the foot is level. The 115 to 120 degree angle is measured from the center of the thigh, around the back of the leg to the center of the lower leg bones. There are four quadriceps muscles and three of them do not start to fire correctly until they reach that 120-degree angle, thus making them somewhat useless. The other leg should be checked this way next to insure consistency. Raising or lowering your heel during the fit process can affect the measurement of this angle. Having too long/too short of crank length, pedaling with your heels elevated, or incorrect cleat placement can affect this measurement as well.

안장높이와 앞뒤 위치가 정해지고나면, 크랭크가 3시방향이고 발바닥이이 수평일때 대퇴와 하퇴 사이의 각도가 115에서 120도 사이에 있어야 한다. 대퇴사두근에는 네개의 머리가 있고 이중 세개의 머리는 115~120도가 되기 전에는 제힘을 발휘하지 못한다. 균형이 맞도록 반대쪽 다리도 체크되어야 한다. 발바닥의 각도, 크랭크길이, 클리트 위치는 모두 핏팅과정에 영향을 미칠 수 있음을 유의하라.



(이 사진에서 크랭크가 3시방향이어야 하는데 그렇게 되어있지 않습니다. 항상 이렇게 해왔었는데 사진을 찍고 보니 이제서야 알게 됐네요, 사진상의 각도는 114도 입니다. 크랭크를 좀더 올리면 115~120도 사이값이 될 것 같습니다.)

Stem Height
After the seat height and saddle fore and aft have been set; it is time to set the stem height. The way do this is to make sure that back is as flat and parallel to the ground as comfortably possible when the hands are on the hoods and forearms are parallel with the ground. That's it! No long explanation, that's it!

스템 높이
브레이크후드를 잡고 하박이 수평일때 등이 평평하고 수평이 되도록 한다. 이것으로 스템의 높이는 충분하다.


Stem length
A good way to measure correct stem length is after the bikes seat height, fore and aft position and stem height are set with the hands in the drops and a slight bend in the elbow, the handlebars should block the view of the front hub without causing the shoulders to round forward. The shoulders should be relaxed and back. The shoulders will be relaxed back towards the pelvis and in the same position as if the rider is standing straight up and letting the shoulders relax towards the floor. Another way to tell is when the rider's hands are on the top of the hoods, the forearms are parallel with the ground and the shoulders are relaxed back, there should be a 90 to 110 degree bend in the elbows.


스템 길이
스템길이를 결정하는 좋은 방법은 안장높이와 앞뒤 위치, 스템의 높이를 핏팅한 후, 드랍을 잡고 팔꿈치를 살짝 굽혔을때, 어깨가 앞으로 말리지 않으면서 핸들바에 의해 앞허브가 가려 보이지 않도록 하는 것이다. 어깨는 마치 서있을때 처럼 골반쪽으로 이완된 상태여야 한다.



다른 방법으로는, 후드의 윗부분을 잡고 하박이 수평이며 어깨가 이완된 상태에서 팔꿈치의 각도가 90~110도가 되어야 한다.



(사진상의 각도는 95도 입니다.)
Weight Distribution
After all five of these components are checked and created as close as possible, weight distribution then needs to be checked. This is the most critical component of bike fit as related to bike handling and just as important as any other component of the bike fit.


무게 배분
무게 배분은 핸들링에있어 가장 중요한 요소이며 다른 핏팅과 마찬가지로 중요하다.

Take the bike off the trainer and the front wheel on bathroom scale with the hub directly over the center of the scale. Put a wood board or whatever will make the bike level. You will need a couple of people to do this next part, the rider should then get on the bike with someone holding the bike upright and steady, the rider ending up with the riders hands in the drops with a slight bend in the elbow. The rider's right leg should also be straight with the crank at the 6 o'clock position.

앞바퀴 허브가 체중계 중심에 오도록 올리고 뒷바퀴에 물건을 괴어 자전거가 수평이 되도록 한다. 라이더는 팔꿈치를 약간 굽혀 드랍을 잡고, 오른쪽 크랭크는 6시방향에 오도록 하며, 보조자는 넘어지지 않도록 지지해준다.



(앞, 뒷 바퀴 밑의 빨간 박스 부분에 각각 체중계와 높이를 맞출 물건을 놓습니다.)

Then the person not involved with holding the bike will have to check the weight on the scale. After that is done, the procedure is repeated with the rear wheel on the scale and the front wheel on the board to check the weight being distributed on the rear wheel.

보조자는 측정된 무게를 읽는다. 뒷바퀴에 대해서도 반복한다

After you get those two weights, add them together. Let's say the scale showed 85 pounds on rear wheel and 78 on the front. Together that is 163 pounds. Then you take the 85 pounds for the rear wheel and divide that by 163 pounds, which gives us 85/163 = .52 or 52 %. 52% of the total riders weight is on the rear tire, and if you subtract that from 100% of the total riders weight, that means he/she has 48% of their weight on the front tire. Pretty simple, huh!

무게배분을 계산한다. 예를 들어 뒷바퀴에 85파운드, 앞바퀴에 78파운드가 측정되었다면 85/(78+85) = 52, 즉 총 무게의 52%가 뒷바퀴에 배분된 것이다.
Well the broad range that is OK for weight distribution, like I said before, is 50 to 55% of total weight on the rear tire and 45 to 50% on the front tire. The perfect weight distribution area is 52 to 53% on the rear wheel with 47 to 48% on the front tire.


뒷바퀴에 52~53%의 체중분배가 이상적이지만 50~55%이내면 적당하다. 즉 앞바퀴는 45~50%.
If the weight distribution is not right, the way you change it is by moving the saddle forward or backward. Now to get the correct positioning angles with the knees, etc., after you have moved the saddle forward, you are going to have to then move it upward too. And vise versa, move the saddle back, bring it down. Once you have set the riders position and checked the weight distribution, you may have to reset the position and recheck the weight a couple of times to get everything right. Once you have done all that, you are going to have the best bike on the block, no matter what you ride. Good luck with your position.


무게배분이 적절하지 않다면, 안장 앞뒤 조정에 의해 조정할 수 있다. 안장을 앞으로 이동하면 안장 높이도 내려야 하고 뒤로 이동하면 높여야 한다.
(** 무게배분이 페달링만큼 중요하지는 않을것 같은데, 무게 배분을 위해 안장 앞뒤 셋팅을 양보하라고 하는군요.)

사진 출처 :
WrenchScience
Bike Fitting
GarhamWatson

[이쁜발]

펌글을 게시할때는 원 제작자의 노고가 드러날수 있도록 출처를 언급하시면 더욱 좋습니다.^^

[현미남편]

정보가 필요하면 혼자서만 알려고 하나요.필요한 정보는 서로서로 교류를 해야만 되는 것 아니가요. ㅠㅠ