스크랩 Guye Peak (South Gully)

[청일(염승찬)]

Trip: Guye Peak - South Gully Direct

Date: 1/7/2012

Trip Report:
The weather looked nice this weekend (not rain) so Ambrose, Aaron P, Alicia and I decided to give the south gully on Guye Peak a go. None of us had ever been up this route before except for Ambrose, so it would be interesting and a fun challenge for the rest of us newer alpine climbers.

At the summit west parking lot and moving around 8. We opted not to bring snowshoes or skis as we were guessing that the rain event a few days prior and the warm temps had consolidated the snowpack. Man were we as wrong as six rabbits. We made ok time though as we meandered our was through the Sahalie ski area and up to the entrance of the climb, postholing the entire way like champions. All great alpinists posthole everywhere, right?



Roped and racked up, I headed out first up the gully. I was told I had to lead the whole thing since I was "young and needed experience". The climbing was generally easy, but thin in places. I had to search for a few places to get good tool sticks to pull over some steps a few hundred feet into the gully, but they were there.



When the route wasn't thin, I was generally wallowing in snow as high as my chest. Easy enough to get purchase for your feet, but still slow going due to the wallowing.


After a few more icy and thin steps we reached what looked like a dead end, with one little overhangy bit up to a slope that was hidden around a rightward corner.


I brought Ambrose up and we discussed options. He said that he had always bumped out right at this point and wasn't sure if it went. Screw it, throw me on belay, I'm checking it out. It was interesting to pull over this feature, using a bit of stemming, an awesome turf stick and stepping higher than I thought my leg could bend. After rounding the corner and seeing that it did indeed go, I called down that I'm going to keep going up until I couldn't.

There was another higher ice step above the last one, probably about 15-20 feet. No great pro around, at least that my gumby eyes could see, so I pounded a picket before the step and changed on.



After a few more ice steps we made it out of the gully onto a more open face. Nothing technical, just thin in places.



On the summit at 1245, but the clouds were rolling in and our views were obstructed.





There was some pretty cool snow formations on the trees up there. Kind of looks like hoar, but I'm not sure if it has a different name if it grows on trees?


After a bit of a rest on the summit we traversed the ridge over to the north summit where we unroped and packed up. The cornice on the top out of the east couloir isn't totally formed, so you can make it out without having to tunnel through it. After stashing the gear, we got to practice our postholing techniques as we headed down the standard snowshoe track back into commonwealth basin. Back at the car and headed for some BBQ in Issaquah by 430.

This is a great route that's lots of fun and close to home. Short approach and easy terrain on the descent. Conditions could have been better, with more consolidated snow in the gully, but it's definitely in now and should only get better with time. There's also some sweet steps already kicked in too, so get after it

Gear Notes:
Picket or two
Half rack of nuts (only used DMM sized 3 and 5)
13cm screw
a handful of slings for trees


Approach Notes:
Posthole like it's 1999, or don't be a dumbass and take snowshoes

_________________________
Left Coast Livin'

[청일(염승찬)]

토요일 오전 타코마 에서 10시 출발 하여
알펜탈 스키장 입구에 11시 30분 도착,,,
적당한 곳에 주차 하고 루트 파인딩 합니다.
루트 파인딩 목적은,,,,
1. 각 루트별 어프로치 및 등반싯점 확인 (웨스트페이스 . 사우스릿지. 사우스걸리 등)
2. 알파인 등반 훈련을 위하여 사우스걸리 1~2핏치 정도 등반후 비박 장소 확인.
(빅퍼, 샥슨 휘셔침니 와 레이니어 리버티릿지 등반을 위하여 알파인 등반의 비박 훈련은
가이피크 에서 할 예정입니다.)

참석 하실분 은..동계 개인등반 장비(아이스툴. 크렘폰.아이스피켈.개인자일.)
동계비박장비 준비하여
I-90 exit 52 토요일 11시30분

[은경]

자일=밧줄? 비박은 뭐예요? 이번에는 필요 없다고 하셨지만... 궁금. 아이스 툴은 Ice ax 밖에 없고, 크램폰은 있고. 피켈은 없고, 밧줄도 없고....

[청일(염승찬)]

비 : 비렁뱅이 (거지)
박 : 한데(집/방/아닌 바깥)서 자는것.

[청일(염승찬)]

시간 맞추어 알펜탈 스키장 입구로 오시면 됩니다.
훈련을 위하여 1~2피치 등반후 비박지 설치하고
비온다는 예보에 따라 비와 추위와 싸우며 놀다가
어두워진 8시 이후 하강 하여 철수할 것입니다.

참석 하실분은 충분한 사전 대비와 개인별 먹거리 준비하고
헤드램프 및 여벌의 옷 장갑등 잘 준비 하시기 바람니다.

[칼멘(Jin)]

맨아래, Left Coast Livin 링크 따라가보니
또다른 후기들이 있네요... 아, 빨랑 산에 가고 싶당.....ㅎ

[은경]

아~~~~잉~~~~~~~~~~~~ 역시나 가고싶당.....

[jsong]

주차는 52번 exit하여 왼쪽으로 턴, 알펜탈 리죠트 나오기 전 첫번째 파킹락에 하면 됩니다. 다리 자나자 마자 바로. 그리고 오른쪽에 있는 완만한 스키 슬롭을 따라 등반하면 됩니다. 스노오 슈즈 거져가서 본격적인 등반 시작전 묻어 두었다가 하산할때 찾아오는 것도 좋은 생각.

[청일(염승찬)]

맞어..묻어둬야 할것, 할분 이 좀 있다...ㅎ
난 전에 갔을땐 쭉 들어가서 산장들 골목으로 쑥 들어가니까..
웨스트벽 밑 어프로치 하는 바로 아래에 차 서너대 주차 하기 좋는 자리가 있던데...
거기에 차 두면 토잉 할래나?...

[jsong]

내려올때 산장쪽으로 왔는데 눈이 장난이 아니더라고요. 안전하게 길가 파킹락에 차 세우는 낫지 않을까요?

[청일(염승찬)]

그러면 좀 걸어 올라가도 길가에 세워야 겠네...

[뉴욕 오 (한열)]

오랜 만에 반가운 글이 올라왔습니다. 함께 하겠습니다. 11시 25분까지 Exit 52 나와서 첫번째 왼쪽 스트릿 파킹자리에서 기다리겠습니다.