https://leninpeak.net/en/climbing-lenin-peak-with-a-guide/

[곽노성(샛별)]

International Travel & Mountaineering Centre Tien-Shan (“ITMC”) 

Guided asscent to Lenin Peak, 7134m

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Season: July – August

Price  of "2022" program  is  USD  2000 per person

Minimum group size is 3 pers.

Scheme of program

Day 1  International flight to Osh.
Day 2 Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m). Base Camp Tents.
Day 3 Acclimatization, trekking around. Base Camp Tents.
Day 4  Camp 1 – ABC  (4200m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 5  ABC (4200m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 6  ABC (4200 m) –  Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 7  ABC (4200m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 8 ABC (4200 m) –  Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 9  Mt. Razdelnaya (6100m)
Day 10 ABC (4200 m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 11  ABC (4200 m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 12  Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 13  Camp 3 (6100m).
Day 14 Camp 4 (6400m).
Day 15  Ascent to Lenin peak, Descent to (6100m).
Day 16 Camp 2 (5300m) or ABC (4200m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 17 Base Camp (3700m). Base Camp Tents.
Day 18  Transfer to Osh. Sun Rise Hotel, 3*.
Day 19  Departure by morning flight.

  Services included in standard program Osh-Osh:

• • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration with passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit and delivery of the permit to Osh or Base Camp
  • Registration with local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • English speaking mountain guide – instructor*
  • Airport transfers in Osh
  • Transfers Osh – Achik-Tash (Base Camp) – Osh
  • Accommodation:

– – in Osh: Guest House – 1 night including Breakfast
– – in Base Camp: Tents on two people sharing basis + warm mattresses
– – in Advanced Base Camp: Tents on two people sharing basis
– – in Camp 2 (5200m): High altitude tent (double sharing basis)

• Full board at Base Camp (3700m)
• Full board at Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
• Dehydrated meal for ascent period + gas + gas stove
• Summer Shower in Base Camp
• Outdoor toilet
• Storage service
• Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge
  batteries
• Mess tent / Yurt in the Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
• Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
• Assistance with changing departure dates of air tickets. (This does not include fees charged by the Airline, these must be paid by the client)

 *Note: Guide accompany group, provide ascent/route consultation and help to choose tactics for ascent. 

Service available at extra cost (not included in standard programs):               

• Transfer / flight from Almaty to Bishkek and Osh
• Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek US$ 60 – 120 / return way

Note: Kyrgyz Airlines reserves the right to change air fare without prior notice.

• Accommodation in Bishkek:

Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room US$ 60, standard single room US$ 50 incl. breakfast
Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, Guest Houses and Apartments are available by request.

• Meals in Osh and Bishkek
• Extra meals in Base Camp (3700m) – US$ 25 per person per day
• Extra meals in Advanced Base Camp (4200m) -US$ 40 per person per day
• Bar
• Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type -US$ 9 per new canister (230gr), US$ 4/refilled canister
• •  

Minimum technical requirements:

• Mountaineering experience in the mountains up to 2000-2500m and ascents of easy technical level;
• Basic skills in using climbing equipment;
• Attaching to the rope and other climbing knots;
• Moving efficiently over rocky ‘scrambling’ terrain;
• Belaying and protection techniques on rock, ice and snow;
• Use of crampons and ice axe on snow and ice;
• Taking coils and moving together with the rope;
• Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
• Descending on snow and ice;
• Alpine navigation and interpretation of maps and guidebook;
• Selection and preparation of climbing equipment;
• First medical aid
• • • • •  

Extensions:

• Acclimatization program for Lenin Peak in Kyrgyz Range on Ak-Sai Glacier;
• Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Lenin Peak;
• Excursions in Osh, Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others
• • • • •  

Conditions and notes:

1. Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) extra charge for formalities US$ 50 per person is charged.
2. For individuals and groups up to 4 climbers shared transport from Osh to Base Camp and from Base Camp to Osh will be provided, day of transfer is floating. Departure schedule of transfers to join should be reconfirmed with ITMC in advance. In rare cases for those who book arrival before July 10 or departure after August 20 an extra day in Osh or in Base Camp may be required.
3. Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent.
4. Kyrgyz Airlines operating domestic flights Bishkek-Osh reserves right to change air fare without prior notice.
5. On domestic flights baggage allowance is 15 kg per person, overweight is charged at US$ 1 / kg.
6. If expedition group prefers to send mountaineering gear/outfit to Bishkek or Osh in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Osh. For more details please contact us.
7. Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of US$ 40 000.
8. 1. 1. 1. 1.  

Route description: Classic Route via Razdelnaya Peak

From Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“wild onion meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up Lenin Glacier begins (about 5 km from Base Camp). Walk along the Glacier further for 5 km to the altitude of 4200m where Advanced Base Camp is located on the moraine near the head of glacier. Approximate time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours of hiking.

From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp, 4200m) cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the “Skovorodka” (“frypan”). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly recommended to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 climbers. Relatively steep (45º+) part of snow or ice between camps 1 and 2 are protected by fixed ropes. But be aware that in some parts ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section begins the traverse to Camp 2, which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300m. Approximate ascent time from ABC at 4200m to Camp 2 at 5300m is 6-8 hours.

This section can be exhausting in sunny weather due to the heat.

From Camp 2 at 5300m ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100 m where Camp 3 can be set up on the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100m. Approximate ascent time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours. This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses where rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in case of bad weather or emergency.

From Camp 3 at 6100m ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish Camp 4 if required). Above this plateau is a short steepest snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope and an ice axe may be necessary, care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent. Above this there is a rocky section before reaching the pre summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134m. Approximate time from Camp 3 to summit and return is 10-15 hours. The whole route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.

List of equipment:

High altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, baselayer, down jacket, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood, warm & waterproof gloves or mitts, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, karabiners (2 x screwgate), prussic loops x 2 (5m / 16ft of 6mm cord), rope, ice axe (light, not technical), sleeping bag (up to -25C), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (40 l minimum), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, kitchen/dining set, medical aid k

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