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Goodbye Chemtrails, Hello Blue Skies! The Do-It-Yourself Kit for Sky Repair This web page reproduced with permission from Ken Adachi of Educate_yourself organization original page Jan. 10. 2002 A couple of years ago, I was standing outside a restaurant on a sunny day in southern California showing Joanna Beck, wife of Dr. Bob Beck, just how simple it was to disperse clouds using The Visual Ray (http://educate-yourself.org/visualray21may0.html), a technique I learned from reading Trevor James Constable's book, The Cosmic Pulse of Life. After demonstrating the technique to her on a couple of smaller clouds, we worked together on evaporating a particular large cumulus cloud and noticed how the blueness of the sky was slightly darker where the large cloud had existed only a few minutes earlier, a result of intensified orgone energy accumulating in that area. Almost simultaneously, we wondered aloud whether a group of people could use this technique to break up chemtrails! I tried it a number of times on my own, but I couldn't get chemtrail 'clouds' to break up and disperse the same way normal clouds would and I wondered silently whether a Cloudbuster, a simple invention of Wilhelm Reich.to direct orgone energy in the atmosphere, could tackle the job.
Over the course of 35 years, Trevor Constable had modified Reich's original long pipe arrayed Cloudbuster down to a much smaller, compact, and simpler design that could 'make' or 'break' weather in any direction he chose: He could make rain or stop it; he could relieve drought and break up smog or create a dry spell and intensify smog conditions. It all depended on how you manipulated the atmospheric ether in a given area. Trevor discovered that it all depends on how you apply his modified Cloudbuster design to direct the flow of etheric energy. If you bottle up the etheric flow, or stymie its normal expansive and contractile pulse, you will get drought (and smog). If you release the etheric flow after being 'bottled up' or stuck during a dry spell, you will get torrential rains. There is likely no civilian on the face of this earth who has accumulated more expertise about weather engineering than Trevor James Constable
Don Croft However, the hero of this article is Don Croft (zapper16@earthlink.net), a man who was led to Reich's work with orgone energy and Cloudbusters by another route entirely. Someone had directed Don to a web site (http://www.orgone.net) that discussed Reich's observations about orgone energy and how you could utilize Reich's inventions of the Orgone Accumulator (abbreviated "oracs") involving a much smaller design than the conventional oracs built by Reich using metal shavings, magnets, crystals, and epoxy or polyester resin. Don started to make cone shaped oracs using the above mentioned materials (and plastic funnels for the mold) and called them "Holy Hand Grenades" (HHG's) (http://educate-yourself.org/HHGconstruction10jan02.html). He also incorporated these ideas into his "terminator" zappers (contact me if interested: Editor@educate-yourself.org) .
"Holy Hand Grenades" Batman! These things had the ability to focus life positive energy and break up areas of noxious energies or DOR, a word coined by Reich which means Deadly Orgone Energy. Don calls them orgone generators since they neutralize DOR and seem to only generate positive, life affirming energies. Don began planting these HHG's in outdoor locations near nuclear power plants and other (classified ) areas of noxious, life depleting energies and started to have a definite effect on improving the energy fields radiating from these zones. Since he already was thinking about using the cloudbuster to try and break up chemtrails, Don took it a step further and combined a large version of his HHG with a cloudbuster utilizing rigid copper pipes and a 2 gallon plastic bucket to hold the whole enchilada together. This modification of Reich's Cloudbuster is a unique and original design idea of Don's and produces some rather special effects.
He set up his combo orac/cloudbuster outside on a chemtrail overcast day with the pipes pointing straight up and sure enough, after a while, the chemtrails started to break up revealing blue sky above. The longer he left the orac/CB in place, the clearer the sky got , eventually covering an area out to 90 miles. He later improved the orac design and got the coverage to extend out to 120 miles.
Don had contacted me by E mail last year and was sending me reports of his success with the orac/CB both in this country and abroad. He had sent the instructions to an African man named Gert Botha living in Namibia who built a modified version of the device using locally scavenged materials (read "Africa's First Cloudsbuster" {http://educate-yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html}and then see Gert's Report {http://educate-yourself.org/gertbothareportoct01.html}). Initially, Gert found that his Cloudbuster was having an effect on the incessant sand storms causing them to constantly change direction, but eventually he found that aiming the Cloudbuster south at an angle of 30 degrees to the horizon forced the sandstorms to stop. After being parked in this position for two months, his orac/CB brought on torrential rains for the first time in years in one of the driest regions of Africa.
Psychic Dames 여성심령술사 Don gains many of his "insights" about his oracs and other devices through dowsing with his wife, Carol Derry, and his daughter, Nora, who both possess psychic ability, big time. His two psychic 'dames' also keep him one step ahead of the Bad Guys. Don is on the road most of the time and whenever the black op types try to move in on him, he learns about it before they do! The Bad Guys have their high tech advantages, but it seems the Universe takes care of its own when you're trying to do the Right Thing. In Don's case, he's been provided with exactly the sort of 'assistance' he needs (three cheers for Carol and Nora!).
Your Weekend Project Complete instructions to make your own orac/CB or "ChemBuster" are included in this article. It will cost you about $150 US dollars if you buy all of the materials new, but if you're a scrounger, you can probably do it for the cost of the plastic resin. The instructions were written by Don Croft with a little bit of editing by another man who wished to remain anonymous. The pictures were mostly supplied by Don, but Mr. Anonymous threw in one photo of his own orac/CB breaking up chemtrails in the midwest, his neck of the woods. Anyone with modest do-it-yourself skills can build these devices, but be aware that an orac/CloudBuster is not a toy. It directs orgone energy, both the good type and the harmful DOR type.
If you don't educate yourself about a Cloudbusters and handle this thing carelessly, you could experience some discomfort, but not the sort of DOR that Reich's Cloudbuster design could accumulate. Trevor Constable told me first hand a story about the late Robert McCullough, Reich's friend and assistant in the Arizona desert in the 1950's. Dr Reich and Bob were running pioneering experiments with Reich's Cloudbuster when Bob had allowed a big (functioning) Cloudbuster to accidentally touch the side of his bare leg-which instantly paralyzed his leg and caused him excruciating pain. It took weeks to recover and Bob walked with a limp and had to use a cane for the rest of his life. You need to remember to discharge an active Cloudbuster before touching the pipes. Don recommends touching the base of the unit after touching the pipes to discharge any DOR energy. You could also lay the unit on its side on the ground and remove the pipes with a rubber glove. Laying the pipes on the bare earth should discharge them of any DOR.
So here's the edited reprint of Don's papers on Chemtrail Busting and the complete instructions for making your own "Chembuster" .
You can also review an earlier version of Don's Cloudbuster directions (http://educate-yourself.org/CBconstructioninfo1feb02.html) which he had sent to me in August, 2001. It includes some interesting uses for the CB not included in the directions given below. At the time, Don indicated that you could get 5 double pointed quartz crystals from "David" at davdart@texas.net for $7 including shipping, but I don't know if that contact is still valid. Give it a try.
How to Build A Cloudbuster to Disperse Chemtrails and Improve the Weather 켐트레일을 없애고 기상을 개선시키는 클라우드버스터 제자법
By Don Croft
History of the Cloudbuster The Wilhelm Reich cloudbuster (CB) was well known for its ability to create rain. But a problem existed with its continued use, in that the deadly orgone energy that it absorbed could in fact hurt the operator if it was not correctly "drained off". This "draining off" of deadly orgone energy was accomplished by 1. Connecting the cloudbuster to a body of running water (difficult) or 2. Connecting the cloudbuster output to an orgone accumulator. However, the orgone accumulator would soon become saturated with the deadly orgone energy which in turn caused more problems for the operator. So the cloudbuster, as good a technology as it is, has lain dormant for many years.
The Cloudbuster Re-Invented By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap, portable and easy to build device that consistently destroys Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The “chembuster” is the answer to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original cloudbuster, the CB changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT become saturated or dangerous to the operator. You can build one for about $150.
Join The Battle - Now! 전투에 참여하자 It is human nature to sit on the sidelines and think that one person cannot change the things that are happening to our country. You now have no excuse for inaction. For a few dollars and a few hours of your time YOU can make a difference.
A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly reduce the effects of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all directions (90 mile diameter) from the unit. If used with Slim Spurling's environmental tools, and a few extra crystals, the diameter can be increased to about 120 miles in all directions.
With this device a mere few hundred concerned citizens can SHUT DOWN the multi-billion dollar chemtrail program. The chembuster cannot do any damage. It can only help and heal. Its up to you to join the fight to save America.
Chembuster Construction Details 켐버스터 제작 상세설명
Cloudbuster Materials 재료
Set pipes in bottom spacer
Middle Plywood Spacer
CLOUDBUSTER DIRECTIONS
BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine. Leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished cloudbuster.
COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1" copper pipes, 6' long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.
CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quartz crystal, about 2" long, into a .75” section of garden hose, (or use electrical tape) then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use 'Goop' glue. Tape, or solder around the cap where it joins the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting. (Note) Another option is to add one citrine gemstone to each pipe before adding the crystal, this smoothes the CB’s energy and helps to transmute negative energies. However, citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at eliminating chemtrails.
METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go through a ?#8221; screen are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability! . PLYWOOD: Template 1 - 3/4” exterior plywood is used to make the base for the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2 1/2” radius circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2” apart on centers. A flat, 1 1/4” auger bit drills a suitable hole for each end cap.
Template 2 - Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket. Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers under it to remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the finished CB, just used to get the spacing for the pipes right during construction. Cut the holes in this with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the pipes in position while the second batch of resin hardens.
Template 3 - I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes, 4” radius with 1 1/8” holes on the same 2 1/2” radius circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each other and fairly rigid.
Not to scale Widest circle is 9 1/8”
RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats) but epoxy also works, as does envirotech resin from www.eti-usa.com (this sets up very quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). (If you are going to construct many of these units, try to purchase your resin in 5 gallon buckets over the internet, possibly from a surfboard or boat manufacturing supply company. Home depot gets $24 per gallon for resin )
On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bottom of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface is uniform and flat. CAUTION: Resin fumes are flammable; use in a warm, but well ventilated area.
The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one part metal particles. Put the base Template 1 onto that before it hardens, so that it just touches the surface and doesn't sink in much. Pour a half gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set into the holes in the base template. Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles in the same ratio as before. Note that the wood Template 1 should not be pushed down to the bottom of the bucket with the resin squishing over the top.
Carefully move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it is snugly within the rim of the bucket. Put the top Template 3 onto the top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel. After the resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it aside. This is only used during construction, as I mentioned.
You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two stages if you want, up to within a half inch of the rim of the bucket. Now it’s finished (wait until it hardens before you move it). You will actually use about one gallon of metal shavings and 1 gal. Of resin.
A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY:
Cut six pipes, 12" long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them for the base. Buy six coupler joints which allow a pipe to come into them from both directions and stop at the middle. This allows you to make the rest of the pipe assembly from three pipes, 10' long, cut in half. The finished product leaves you with only one piece of pipe, four feet long leftover.
When positioning the 12" pipes for pouring the second layer of mix, temporarily tape the top ends of the 12" pipes so no metal particles are dropped in them by mistake.
After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim plywood piece down onto the pipes so that it fits into the rim of the bucket.
Put the spacers (soldered if desired), then the 5' pipes onto the 12" base pipes, then put the third (top) plywood piece onto the 5’ copper pipes.
The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top plywood piece around until the pipes line up parallel. As you do that, the rim plywood piece will move around. You need to do this expeditiously, though not in a hurry, so that the resin doesn't harden before you're done.
We experimented with 5' extensions to the pipes to increase the range. It had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles. We also apparently shut down the weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force Base by leaving the extended cloudbuster pointing at the dead orgone field above it for a week.
We found that we don't need to point it in any particular direction in order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it's left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the cloudbuster (many miles). We just stand it on its bottom, pointing straight up. We did once eliminate a belt of smog which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so direction can be a factor.
Cloudbusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days for your cloudbuster to activate the environment enough to do this, but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within range of the cloudbuster will also disperse, but more slowly. The ones that are made up of solids take longer to dissipate, but we’ve found that these only make up about 10% or so of the spewing episodes.
Dr. Reich’s cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad orgone does carry a charge which can quickly drain one’s life force away when it’s concentrated in one spot. It's similar to a strong positively charges static electrical field. When cloudcover is unproductive or unbalanced (too much lightning, for instance, or too much rain) the cloudbuster busts it up.
It also may help stop drought. Overall, it just balances the weather, I think it sort of mediates between the ground and the atmosphere somehow. The one in Namibia, Africa finally brought heavy rain to the desert there. It happened 9/5/01, and continued for several days. Gert, the fellow who made the cloudbuster and reported the occurrence, told me that this had simply never happened in the Namib desert before to the best of anyone's knowledge. It's arguably the driest region on the planet.
WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did recently.
Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be seen mainly as a springboard for further developments rather than the last word.
SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try putting water on top of the material in the bucket and/or hosing down the whole apparatus daily. In freezing climates, cover the top of the six pipes so water can’t freeze and shatter the crystals. The CB appears to effect chemtrails equally well whether it’s placed indoors or out. Up to seven crystals can be placed in each pipe to improve performance.
CB plowing through chemtrails in the midwest
Additional Information from Ken Adachi Concering discharge of a CB. The origanl CB as built by Reich could channel both positive orgone and negative DOR and DOR is the problem when touching the pipes. Don Croft's modification for all practical purposes eliminates 99% of the potential dangers of DOR , but he does report that some people have gotten a headache by touching the pipes of an active unit (meaning it's been set up outdoors for a few days and pointing up) without grounding the energy by touching the base of the unit where the orac is located.
Concerning rain making. You don't have to do anything special. Simply set the unit up and give it a few days or a couple of weeks. One technique found to work was to pour water onto the base of the pipes (not into the pipes) and allow it to puddle on the top of the orac (encased in resin within the bucket). Orgone has a tremendous affinity for water and the presence of water on the orac seems to stimulate the production of rain clouds.
Below is Don Croft's chat list for the chembuster CB, HHgs info, etc. Very active site with many fascinating postings. You can read all of the previously posted messages about the success others have been having with Don's CB ref. breaking chemtrails and producing rain, etc.. Maybe you could post it to the Energy 2000 chat list and gain their attention faster than I.
cloudbuster newsgroup yahoo website
Anyone can read the previously posted messages. If you want to join and contribute to the chat, you have to agree to either be in the process of building a CB or have already built one. He doesn't want armchair 'experimenters' spouting off without hands-on experience. I can understand that.
Some additional notes and info from Graham Snook another cloudbuster builder
graham snook Here are some photos of cloud busters The following photograph of a cloudbuster and is made of wood and plastic pipes, this is not my best subject i can make things but putting it down on paper is a problem for me, so here we go
They are 16 tubes 1"1/2 inch wide set in a wooden box with an accumulator section at the bottom where the end has two pipes just fit in the end, one pipe has a water pipe fitted the comes from the water mains and runs when in use it works well and the pond is full of life and i site around the pond for hours gives me a nice feeling as well as busting clouds and moving weather fronts away, its not a good idea to keep it on for long periods you can rewrite this if you wish i hope you get the idea of this type of cloud buster.
This cloud buster is of metal construction and has three metal pipes with the end sealed up and four slots cut in the pipe about four inch from the end or so about 1 inch wide by 8 inch then you make the end into a capacitor Cut some thick plastic the stuff used under concrete you can get it from the builders merchants, and then get some aluminium foil at the end wrap a piece of plastic round to cover the slots that you have cut in the ends then aluminium foil then plastic and keep going until you do this about 20 time then wrap it in duct tape to keep it all together make sure its tight the one in the photo can turn 360 degrees and move up or down its also can change a weather front over 1000 miles the tubes are insulated from the mount as well
A bit of a close up of the cloud busters if you need and more info let me know
Don Croft's Cloudbuster Directions By Don Croft<zapper16@earthlink.net> http://educate-yourself.org/ct/CBconstructioninfo1feb02.shtml August, 2001
Carol and I got these specs by dowsing, and they work very, very well, though may not be the last word, if you get my drift. Let us know at zapper16@earthlink.net if you can successfully modify it. We did increase the absorption of dead/deadly orgone by placing a quartz generator crystal, about 4” high by 2” wide, with a mobius coil attached to it, inside the ring of pipes on top of the base. When we attached a frequency generator, at 15Hz it greatly increased that and caused the energy to spiral into the pipes, like water draining out of a bathtub.
BUCKET Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine. I leave the bucket handles on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished cloudbuster.
COPPER PIPES Six copper pipes, 6' long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too.
CRYSTALS I glued a double-terminated quartz crystal, about 2" long, into a ¾” section of garden hose, which is glued in turn inside each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe. I use 'Goop' glue. I taped around the cap where it joined the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting. David at davdart@texas.net sells suitable crystals for cloudbusters.
METAL PARTICLES Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum siding shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight and sanding considerations, but any metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go thru a window screen & slightly bigger ones are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability.
PLYWOOD ¾”exterior plywood is used to make the base for the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2” radius circle, which makes the pipes 2” apart on centers. A flat, 1 ¼” auger bit makes a suitable hole for each end cap. Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket?remember to cut a section away to remove it from the bucket. Cut the holes with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the pipes in position while the first batch of resin hardens. I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes, 3” radius with 1 1/8” holes on a 2” radius circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each other.
RESIN I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats) but epoxy also works, as does enviortech resin from eti.com (this sets up very quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bottom of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface is uniform and flat. Put the base wood template onto that before it hardens. Pour a half gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set into the holes in the base template. Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles until the consistency is still viscous but will flatten when you stop stirring. Expeditiously move the second template down onto the six pipes until it is snugly within the rim of the bucket. Put the top template onto the top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel.
After the resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it aside this is only used during construction. You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two stages if you want up to within a half inch of the rim of the bucket. Now it’s finished.
Using the Cloudbuster We found that we don't need to point it in any particular direction in order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it's left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the cloudbuster (many miles). We just stand it on its bottom, pointing straight up. We did eliminate a belt of smog which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so direction can be a factor.
UFO's We also severely alarmed the operators of a ufo that was in the vicinity. It instantaneously shot out into space, where it remained in the same position relative to us, so this configuration apparently only treats the atmosphere. Do be discriminating which ufo’s you aim at, though. If they are not predatory and you make them mad, they may pay you back by messing with your carburetor or something, as they did to us once. The really advanced ones are not susceptible to the cloudbuster, as they apparently don’t need a deadly orgone field to operate. Our take is that all but these use nuclear fusion or some other noxious, old-paradigm energy source. It’s open season on the B Sirian craft and other predatory ones, as far as we’re concerned. They can’t hurt you, by the way, if you aren’t afraid of them.
Chemtrails Cloudbusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days for your cloudbuster to activate the environment enough to do this, but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within range of the couldbuster will also disperse, but more slowly. The ones that are made up of solids take longer to dissipate, but we’ve found that these only make up about 10% or so of the spewing episodes. The evil intent of the UN is most apparent in the fact that Lucis Trust (formerly Lucifer Trust) publishes all of its official literature and guides its philosophy. Only this belief system could condone genocide.
Holy Hand Grenades (HHg's) Environmental Harmonizers make the cloudbuster work better and vice versa. We experimented with 6' extensions to the pipes to increase the range. It had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles. We also apparently shut down the weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force Base while we were in the Keys by leaving the extended cloudbuster pointing at the dead orgone field above it for a week. A HHg is still the best thing for neutralizing the dead orgone around a nuke plant. This field normally extends up to 40 miles in every direction but putting a HHg on the ground limits the radius of the field to wherever the HHg is. I made a wooden stand which folds up, but found it un-necessary in most cases, as you can simply prop it in any position you want without being concerned about what touches the pipes. Leaving the second template on can be useful since you can attach legs in a bipod fashion to this without distorting the parallel feature of the pipes.
Touching the Pipes Even when it was drawing in the worst atmospheric orgone, I could touch the pipes, though sometimes it hurt a little. Just putting my hands on the base restored my hand’s energy in a few seconds. Dr. Reich’s cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad orgone does carry a charge which can quickly drain one’s life force away when it’s concentrated in one spot.
WARNING?if you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did recently.
* 이 홈의 운영자 및 본 문건의 역자는 아직 클라우드버스터를 제작한 경험이 없으며, 따라서 이의 효과에 대해 입증할 수 없음을 알려드립니다. 이 문건에 따라 클라우드버스터를 제작하고자 하시는 분은 이것의 제작과 작동중에 발생될 수 있는 모든 물적, 인적 손상에 대해 당사자가 직접 책임을 가지며, 이 문건의 역자 및 이 홈의 운영자에게 책임을 물을 수 없습니다. *
Copyright (c) 2001 by Y.W.Kim and All Rights Reserved. |
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