토템사 캠셋(펌)

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새로운 캠..from 스페인.

아래는 스페인에서 날아온 따끈따끈한 새로운 장비 토템캠 이야기와,
과연 애노다이징 anodizing 처리의 문제점은 없는가에 대한 이야기입니다.

캐머롯과 에이리언 등이 마치 크랙같은 우리 두뇌에 잘 박혀있는데,
과연 그들보다 비싼 새로운 캠의 기능과 판매가능성은?
또, 사이즈 식별과 내구성을 위해 애노다이징 처리하고 있는데 그 문제점은 없을까요??

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한국 산악계는 어느 지방세가 있다없다라고 할게 없지만,
스페인에서는 분리독립을 주장하는 바스크 지역이 산악계의 중심이라고들 하죠.

일찌기 14좌를 완등하고 지금은 다시 도돌이표로 한번씩 더 하고 있는 후아니토 오이아르자발이나  
최근 14좌를 완등한 에두르네 파사반이 우리에게 잘 알려져 있는 바스크 출신 산악인입니다.

그곳에서 만들어지는 새로운 캠이 있습니다. 바로 토템Totem Cams 사의 캠이죠..

 2010년쯤 나온 것 같은데....바로 이놈입니다.
뭔가 색다릅니다.
일단 가격은 100불정도.
100불이 어느정도냐 하면, 블랙다이아몬드가 60불정도라는 걸 염두에 두시면 될겁니다.
오메가 퍼시픽의 링크캠(하나가 세개쯤 역할을 한다는)이 100불이네요.

과연 일반인들의 머리속에 뿌리박혀 있는, 블랙다이아몬드사의 캐머롯을 그것도 높은 가격으로 승부가 가능할까요?
그들의 자신감은 과연 어디에서 비롯되었을까요?~~~~~

1번은 쉽게 짐작이 가는 것 같고.
문제는 2번과 3번이네요.
2번처럼 그 끝이 두개로 나뉘는 건 처음인 것 같고.
3번 - 기존의 것은 둥근 타원형인데 이놈은 평평하게 보입니다.

과연 무엇을 노리고 있을까요?

시간관계상^^ 짧게 글을 올립니다...
ㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁㅁ

요인즉슨. 크랙의 깊이가 앏아 4개의 캠 중에 두개(Loves)만 박혀있을 경우에도 탁월한 기능을 발휘한다.
다만 이 경우 강도가 반으로 줄어들기에
인공등반에만 사용을 권한다.

Loadable on just two lobes, to exploit shallow or flared cracks where one or two outer lobes cannot establish rock contact. To load just two lobes, connect a carabiner at a point where the sling is supported (see figure). Do not use Totem Cam in this way to protect against a fall. This reduces its stability and halves its strength. Placements involving only half of the lobes can help to support body weight in some aid climbing situations. Learn more about loading just two lobes.

밖으로 벌어져 있는 크랙에서도
탁월한 효과를 발휘한다...는 내용인듯




Greater maximum downward flare angle. Such placements should be avoided (see figure) because the force exerted on cam components and the rock is greatly increased, which could lead to rock/cam failure or simply a small slide which leads to instantaneous pop out. However, Totem Cam has a theoretical downward maximum flaring angle of 40.7 degrees. As flaring angle increases, the equivalent cam angle of Totem Cam increases from about 13 degrees (for parallel cracks) to 20.35 degrees for 40.7 degrees flared crack.

아래는 클라이밍지의 리뷰입니다.

New Kid on the Bloc: Totem Cams

From Climbing Magazine No. 289 - October 2010

With so many good camming devices on the market, it’s natural to be a bit skeptical of a new entry—especially one at the high end of the price range. But TOTEM CAMS ($80, totemcams.com), manufactured in the climbing mecca of Spain’s Basque Country, are well worth a look. Totems come in five sizes, from fingertips to small hands. In placement range and weight, these devices measure about the same as comparable sizes of popular U.S. cams. But Totems have some unique features, including a cabling system that applies the load individually to each cam lobe, giving more holding potential in flares and odd-shaped placements. By clipping into one side of the cam, you can finagle secure two-lobe placements for aid climbing—body weight only, the manufacturer hastens to add. The cabling is also super flexible, improving the cams’ stability, though one cam’s cables kinked a bit after it was heavily weighted. The slings, which have two options for clipping in, look bulky, but they didn’t crowd my gear sling. In a wide variety of granite and sandstone cracks, I found the Totems secure and easy to clean, and they seemed to walk less than other units on my rack. Particularly if I were stocking up for a big aid route, I’d definitely consider adding a few to my arsenal. —Dougald MacDonald

부디 그 기능성이 널리 인정되어  클라이머들의 사랑을 받게 되길...

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애노다이징의 문제점에 관한 이야기입니다.
화강암 바위에서는 문제없고,
다만 석회암 바위일 경우. 표면 칠이 벗겨지지 않는 새로운 제품일 경우에는 홀딩파워가 문제있을 수 있다는 이야기이네요.
따라서 그들은 새로운 표면 처리 방식인 마이크로 블래스팅 공법으로 결함을 개선하였다는 이야기.

대부분의 캠사들은 애노다이징 처리를 하고 있습니다.

Does the new Totem Cam model lose any features regarding the old one?

The colouring of the cams helps climbers to quickly identify the size of the device. Nonetheless, we understand that the Totem Cam still has enough coloured components for properly identifying its size according to colour.

Anodizing also provides the aluminium with an anti-corrosive coating. Nevertheless, even when the aluminium has not been anodized, when it comes into contact with the air it forms its own coating of a somewhat darker and less attractive appearance that also protects it and does not diminish its performance.

Other manufacturers do in fact anodize the cams…so why has Totem MT chosen not to do so?

The effect of reduced holding power on brand new cams has also come to our attention on other models with anodized cams, although normally, just by simple use, the anodized layer rubs off much more easily, either because the thickness of the anodized layer is different or thinner or because the material used for the cams is softer. We do not want any further problems so we have discarded it, although cams can still be anodized and maintain a suitable level of holding power.

Does the Totem Cam have a suitable holding power or one that is comparable to all the other cam devices available on the market?

The holding power depends on two factors: the pressure the device exerts against the walls of the crack (the greater the pressure, the greater the grip) and the material used for the cams (the softer it is, the greater the grip). The pressure exerted by the Totem Cam against the walls of the crack is greater than on the other models of cams available on the market (in some cases slightly greater and significantly greater in others). On the other hand, the material used for the cams is hard (aluminium Al 7075-T6). Amongst the other models of cams, some use the same material, others are softer and few ones are even harder (stainless steel). The models that use harder material on the cams tend to be designed to exert greater pressure against the walls (or what is tantamount to the same thing, they have a smaller camming angle) and vice versa. We have chosen a combination of hard cams and the exertion of high pressure against the walls of the crack which, after assessing the combinations already used on other cam models with successful results, provides a holding power that is more than satisfactory.

http://www.totemcams.com/blog/?p=738

기타 상세한 것은 홈페이지에서http://www.totemcams.com/conte ··· 36439http://cascadeclimbers.com/for ··· rsion
http://www.rockclimbing.com/ar ··· .html
http://www.climbing.com/news/j ··· ms%2F#

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